Routes in Costa Rica for selected grade

Facing the wall with your back to the river and the camping hut, this is the very first route on the wall from right to left. A fun and juggy route with an extended left traverse about half way up where the climb goes directly overtop the anchors for 'Como Tu Sabe'. Due to the traverse feature of this climb, it is recommended to take extendable draws in order to reduce rope drag. End on the same anchors as 'Para Sayang'.

It seems that now there is an anchor more in line making the route a bit shorter.

Just to the right of Piolin, and ending with the same anchors, is Diedro. Start by standing on the protruding ramp that moves up to the right towards Ron. Use the two low pockets to position yourself before traversing right onto a crimp and geston. Use some burly strength to get to the pocket just above and then clip the second bolt on the extremely deep monster pocket. From here traverse to the left using a sloper and a couple of wide stances with decent ledges before getting to the anchors shared with Piolin. In the final push for the anchors Diedro uses some of the same holds as Piolin, but to maintian the 5.10c difficulty try to stay as far to the right as possible.

You have to be careful not to slip on the approach, you can generally belay from the base of the route, but it is better to anchor to the first bolt. The route starts out easy with good holds on the crevasse, there is a small roof that has a couple of jugs, the second and third bolt after the roof are the trickiest parts.

Easily distinguishable by the parallel vertical running finger cracks, you will find this climb at the far right of the East Wall. The climb is a great warm-up for some of the others in the ravine. If you are familiar with jamming, and the cracks are clean, 5.9 may seem more appropriate. However the cracks are rarely clean enough to provide a feeling of security and if climbing the route without solid jamming ability, more than not, the grade of 5.10a seems appropriate. Whether you are jamming or not, climb directly up the vertical cracks to the horizontal crack and high step over the ledge for a rest. Use the cracks and good feet to get up to the slight overhang and the real challenge. As feet and hands thin out and you are forced to decide for more crack or big stretchy moves, your head will become the crux. Make some commitment and pull through the overhang to the anchors. This route is also a great route to be done on trad.

Just around the corner to the right from Biscochuelo de Fresa, Dos Cortos, and Pupis, is another wonderful crack climb: Hexentrica. Follow the large cracks straight up to the anchors. This route can also be done on trad. Because this area is exposed to a lot of sunlight, overgrowth occurs fairly quickly.

Aptly named El Bejuco is easily identifiable due to the long strangler fig root that stretches from the top of the wall, all the way to the bottom of the ravine.

The third climb from the left, Pan Comido is a fun and crimpy route that is a good finger warm up before trying out some of the 5.11’s. Atypical for many of the routes here, the crux can be found almost directly in the center of the climb where you will meet a bit of an overhang and a somewhat burly move for Aserri’s normally delicate personality. If you can find the good hold, the crux move is piece of cake. Post crux, easy, big holds on slab are worked until the anchors up and to the right.

This top rope route goes directly up the wall between the two black water marks. Expect small rock knobs and crimpy pinch climbing for the first half, and then easier slab for the second half. This is quintessential Piedra de Aserri climbing. Meet the crux about a quarter of the way up the route as obvious hand holds become not so obvious.

Starting just to the right of the trianglular rock, La Placa is a decent top rope climb that moves up the wall in between El Sombrero and El Diedro. Start with crimpy moves on nearly vertical wall and feet that you need to trust will do their job. If your feet keep good on their responsibilities you will make it to the large ledge. After the ledge the climb turns into slab and small knobs characteristic of Aserri.