Routes in Costa Rica for selected grade

Place a V6/7 boulder problem on a sloper-centric wall, reduce the foot placement options, add a touch of “¿where do I go next?” and bam! you have Cachi Cross. The early jugs on this route can be deceiving, causing some to rush, however this will most likely lead to being pumped for the big sloper move to the right of the forth bolt. Using a nylon jug in order to clip the fourth bolt is not uncommon, especially for the vertically challenged. Pull your way past the crux to consistently good holds until the anchors. The true test is keeping the lactic acid burn in your forearms under control in order to allow enough time to make it to the top of one of the tallest climbs on the wall. This often cruel climb meets its grade well and can be found directly to the right of ‘Chino Clandestino’.

To the left of ‘Cachi Cross’ and before the talus on the left, Chino Clandestino is situated directly in front of the belayers bench. This tall test piece hosts a sustained crux that has well concealed rests and brutally apparent slopers. The beginning of the crux has multiple path options: either manage the classic Cachi slopers to the right, or crimp and pinch up the middle. Once you have managed the crux, traverse slightly to the left and you will be well rewarded with a much needed resting hold, and if you are creative, a no-hands rest. From here to the top the climb is easy as pie, so long as you utilize the provided underclings. Miss the underclings and you may be finding yourself at a second crux section

To the left of ‘Buen Ray’ and to the right of ‘Adios Hermanos’ at the top of the talus pile you will find Chocolate Caliente. Finish the climb at the same anchors as ‘Adios Hermanos’.

This crazy route has a large roof that you may want to protect with an extended quickdraw. Falling on the crux just after the roof means big whippers for those who venture up this climb. Continue past the crux to the anchors shared with the second pitch of El Trepon de la Zeguea. A30m rope is just long enough, so make sure to tie a knot in the end for safety. Worse case scenario, you rap down to the first pitch anchors of El Trepon de la Zeguea, and then rap again to the ground.

This extremely technical climb is an instant classic with it’s variety of moves, holds and climbing styles. Two climbs to the right of Chiquisa (with it’s easily identifiable overhang) La Via Lactea begins with tactful moves up the small arête to the left of the first bolt before a layback allows you to reach the two finger pocket (mono if your fingers are really large) and hoist up to the horizontal crack. Sneak a rest before using the sharp crimp to assist your attempt to the small jug. From here things really start to get fun with a gaston, a high step, a compression, and a stretch for a taxing pocket that is deceivingly comfortable. If you find yourself on a right facing block handhold, congratulations your work, for the most part, is complete. Finish the remainder of the route with everyone’s favorite type of climbing; big moves to big jugs. Just hope that the lactic acid in your arms hasn’t reached a tipping point that will see your send attempt take a downfall.