Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed 27th Sep 2023 - Discoteca | ||||||
| 6b |
★★ Disc jockey
| 27m, 15 | ★ Good | |||
|
Tricky slab crux
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| 5c |
★★ Il buttafuori
| 26m | ★ Good | |||
|
Nice juggy route
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| Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Acquafraggia | ||||||
| La Mezzera | ||||||
| 6a |
★★ La Capanna del Blondi
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
|
A v1 mantle start then spaced bolts, generally ok to get to except the one that protects the crux
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| Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Albigna | ||||||
| Spazzacaldeira | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★★ Buttamigiu
2
5c+
35
Kind of did half of this in our confusion
3
6a+
30
Hard moves getting to belay well above bolt.
4
6b+
50
Used a nice kneebar low, and found the hardest move up stepping off a small pinnacle.
5
4a
45
A route takes off directly above where you top out that would make a good link up | 160m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Apart from route confusion which seems to afflict many people who start on Lascimili and end up on this, Pitches 3 and 4 were great. The bolting is weird, near good trad placements then run out. Route deserves more traffic. Best to walk off. The connecting cord at anchors is very tatty and needs replacing-Especially getting to top of pitch 3 where it appears some people aid on the long bit of rope hanging down. A single set of cams 0.3 to #2 helpful.
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| Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Cranna | ||||||
| Lower Sector | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★★ Passaggio Chiave P1
1
6b+
20
Nice climbing. We came to the crag because its rain sheltered, but it was a Saturday and half of chiavenna seemed to join us, then the sun came out and the temps went up 10 degrees. It was time to leave. | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 6a |
★★★ Pergola
| 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Nice route, anchors at full stretch though.
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| Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Vho | ||||||
| Superleo | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★★ Cappuccino
| 30m | ★ Good | |||
|
On of the drier routes today ( first pitch) , and unlike the 10m boulder climb, Fipanza we found this one pretty easy
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| Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Arrampicodromo Di Mese | ||||||
| Parking | ||||||
| 6a+ |
★ Assessore
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
|
Probably my favourite. A couple of tricky spots.
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| Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Sottosassa | ||||||
| 6a |
★ Diedro Gabrielli
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
|
The bottom half was quite good, then a few mantles.
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| 6a+ |
I bocce del paes
| 17m | ||||
|
Ok, but not sure what was “ in” so did bridge into crack on opposite wall
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| Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Höhlensteintal | ||||||
| Landro Settore 4 | ||||||
| 6a ~6a |
★ Gamaze
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
|
Quite easier, and far easier than route to left.
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| 6a+ ~6b |
★★ Baum
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Way harder than the 6 a+ to the right, which I have take liberty of down grading while upgrading this- took me about 10 minutes to commit to standing up off the ledge.
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| 6b ~6b+ |
★★ Sandmännchen
| 32m | ★ Good | |||
|
I thought I was on the 6c, and it didn’t feel that far off.
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| 6b |
★★ Hexentanz P1
1
6b
8m
Too close to route to left making it escapable at crux (contrived direct, and hard for 6 b) but I did it both ways to cover the bases. | 8m | ||||
| 6a |
★★ Kinderspiel
1
5b
8m
2
6a
9m
Unfortunately the bolt matrix on this wall detracts from the climbing, I followed this middle pitch | 17m | ||||
| Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Höhlensteintal | ||||||
| Landro Settore 3 | ||||||
| 5b |
★★ Nigge-Riss
| 24m | ★ Good | |||
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Ok, but always sad to see a bolted crack.
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| 6b+ ~6b |
★★ Nigge-Kante
| 24m | ★ Good | |||
|
I think it’s even soft for 6b, compared to other routes here.
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| Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Sass Dlacia | ||||||
| A | ||||||
| 6b |
★★ Placca motoria
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Our start to Chernobyl. A good warm up due to some nice rest stances between the pocket pulling.
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| 6b+ |
★★ Chernobyl
1
5c
28
Did PM instead then continued up past final bolt of this to belay
2
6a+
30
Go straight up to roof past 2 bolts then hand traverse right under roof ( rock fax topo quite poor for route)
3
6a+
29
After exiting the short chimney at the second bolt I missed the next 2 bolts which were off to the right and got back to one above them, exciting! Thought this pitch was also 6 b
4
6b
30
More nice climbing on some old bolts
5
6b+
23
Fantastic steep finale. | 140m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Started on PM as first pitch. Liked all the pitches. Would have done more routes here but sun had hit has by the time we abseiled. 60 m rope needed minimum.
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| Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Parte Oscura della Luna | ||||||
| 6a+ |
★★ Indian Summer
1
6a
40m
We started on first bolt of Legoland then joined Indian summer. Quite cold at the start.
2
6a
40m
3
6a
30m
I liked this pitch the best, straight up on amazing pockets
4
5c
30m
Didn’t feel any easier than the rest of the route.
5
6a+
20m
You traverse right off the belay for about 4m, topo implied otherwise
6
6a+
20m
Quite a steep crack, some good moves.
7
6a
20m
The corner crack | 200m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Pretty nice route, especially for a hot day. Seems like Rockfax digital is out of date for access and descent. The descent to the left has a washed away gully after a downclimb to contend with, but I guess we got to go canyoning as well as climb.
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| Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Palla del Guide | ||||||
| 6a+ |
★★ Via Gino Bellumat
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 200m | ||||
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Pleasant and fairly low stress outing on a hot day getting used to altitude and embracing life whilst Preserving knees. Well conceived route, reasonably bolted. Linked 2 and 3 and 4 and 5.
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| Thu 7th Sep 2023 - Comano Terme | ||||||
| 6a+ ~6b |
★ Dritdreiciodi
| 16m | ★ Good | |||
|
Grade 20 I reckon, unless you Mc Dougall right badly. A bit polished
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| 6a |
★★ Gigliola
| 18m | ||||
|
Good warm up as advertised
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| Wed 6th Sep 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
| Sarche Piccolo Dain Parete del Centrale | ||||||
| 6 |
★★ Moon bears
- with
dave
1
5-
lead by
dave
Slightly off route but got there in the end
2
3
3
4
4
5
5
6
6
6
A nice pitch that traverses leftwards via tufa features
7
4
8
6-
Reachy crux
9
5-
Finished our 2.5 L water by the top | 250m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Very hot, we tried to create a breeze by climbing fast, about 3 hours. Linked 1+2, 3+4, 6+7. May the memory of the FA live on.
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| Tue 5th Sep 2023 - La Falesia Dimenticata | ||||||
| 5c |
★★ Pestacolo
| 20m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
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Nice enough, getting used to the rock. 3 pm too early for shade, improved at 4.
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| Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Brenta Alta | ||||||
| Crag Raffael and Natalie Vidi | ||||||
| 6b |
★★ Brigot
| 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
The rock is a bit ordinary down low, but excellent movement, varied climb, technical in places and pumpy start. Generally overhanging.
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| Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Val d'Algone | ||||||
| 6c |
★★ Lo scorpione
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Nice varied and technical route, no real sting in the tail, but a few of cruxy sequences below
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| 6b+ |
★ Il nido de ragno
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Nice varied route, a little bit of dodgy rock up top
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| Thu 31st Aug 2023 - Breguzzo | ||||||
| 6a+ |
★ Prenzip
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
|
Some nice pockets, but just too many ways to go
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| 6c |
★★ Bagoi
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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The Sandinista of Breguzzo, about 5m overhanging. My crack glove tried to reject doing a sports route, I got spiders down my t shirt and there was some type of poo in some of the pockets. Great journey!
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| Wed 30th Aug 2023 - Croz de le Niere | ||||||
| Formica | ||||||
| 5b |
★★ Il pigro
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
|
Pleasant, about grade 17
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| Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Ishoel | ||||||
| Litjhælvet | ||||||
| 6- ~6 |
★★ Trollfeit
| 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Fun route out over the water, felt like 19, so may just be a conversion factor issue with thecrag
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| 6+ |
★★ Nådeløs som Cola
| 12m | ||||
| 6+ |
★★ Kongla
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
|
Routes squeezed in a bit, but it was a good work out
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| 5+ |
★★ Action Direct
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
|
Quite a pumpy introduction
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| Thu 24th Aug 2023 - Flatanger | ||||||
| Hanshallaren Hans | ||||||
| 6b ~6a+ |
★★ Trykkokeren
| 17m | ★ Good | |||
|
Compared to some of the other routes more 6a territory
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| 5c |
★ Limpa
| 20m | Average | |||
|
Several flakes with x on them, able to climb around but needs proper cleaning
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| Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Flatanger | ||||||
| Sandmælen Midtre | ||||||
| 6a+ |
★★ I siget
| 38m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
The start was a bit wet and awkward, improved after that, nice flake and route harder than the corner to left
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| Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Flatanger | ||||||
| Sandmælen Venstre | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★ Come back
| 16m, 6 | Average | |||
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The climbing didn’t really flow, largely due to bolt position.
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| 6a ~6a+ |
★★ Posible nick
| 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Without a triple rack to weigh me down I should have floated up this but it had me puffing.
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| Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
| Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Finnvika | ||||||
| 6b |
★★ Bormeister Fausa
| 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Really nice climbing as well, with a very funky hold.
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| Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Vesterålen | ||||||
| Trollskåla Venstre | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ Sofaruta
| 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Grade 17, very 3D and quite steep
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| 6a |
★ Mye botanikk
| 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
|
The grade conversion seems out here, 19.
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| Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Ofoten | ||||||
| Narvik Haugfjellet Kjerringveggen | ||||||
| 6 |
★ Holoholahoy
| 15m | ||||
|
Looked deceptively easy. May have been the 25 degree day…
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| 6- |
★ Jepperuta
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
|
Some steep but good holds
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| 7 ~7- |
★ Adjöss och tack för fisken
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
|
Presuming this is the rebolted ex trad route left of Jeppenruta. Not too hard.
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| Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | ||||||
| Main C | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★ Hulken
| 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Best route of the day, felt twice as long due to right to left and back movement throughout. Pleased with the OS, it kept me fighting.
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| Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | ||||||
| Main west | ||||||
| 7 |
★ St. Pavel
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
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Really enjoying the rock, looks pretty crappy but rewards technique. Reminds of stuff around wanaka
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| 6+ |
★ St. Peter
| 14m | ★ Good | |||
|
Nice roof to start
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| 7- |
★ Himmelspretten P1
| 9m | ★ Good | |||
|
Found this harder than the N7. The slopers felt super slippery in the sun
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| Thu 3rd Aug 2023 - Tromsø | ||||||
| Kvaløya Ersfjorden | ||||||
| 6 |
★★ På sva er vi alle trist som faen
| 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
|
Interesting slab and corner
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| 6b |
★★ Sekspress
| 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Quite fun and great views
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| Fri 28th Jul 2023 - Tromsø | ||||||
| Kvaløya Brensholmen Psykologveggen | ||||||
| 6 |
★ Akrofobi
| 26m | ★ Good | |||
|
Interesting route on some large quartz holds
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| Fri 28th Jul 2023 - Tromsø | ||||||
| Kvaløya Brensholmen Panoramaveggen | ||||||
| 6a |
★★ Nesheim-ruta
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
|
Seems the main route now on head wall
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| Thu 27th Jul 2023 - Sør-Troms | ||||||
| Senja Ørnfjord | ||||||
| 5+ |
★ Hilda
| 54m | ★ Good | |||
|
Had to get the final route in before we left. Small climbing world, ran into expat kiwi Rick Macgregor, responsible for many fine Kiwi and Australian FAs.
Unfortunately the route has a couple of chips. The crag was the ultimate in consumer climbing, not something to emulate back home.
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| Wed 26th Jul 2023 - Sør-Troms | ||||||
| Senja Ørnfjord | ||||||
| 5+ |
Valhall
| 65m | ||||
| 5+ |
★★ Sondre
| 52m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Nice climb, dave ran both pitches together
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| 5+ |
★ Tiril
| 55m | ★ Good | |||
|
Ran both pitches together
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| Tue 25th Jul 2023 - Sør-Troms | ||||||
| Senja Ørnfjord | ||||||
| 5+ |
★ Viking
| 65m | ★ Good | |||
|
First pitch only
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| 5+ |
★ Saga
| 65m | ★ Good | |||
| 5+ |
★★ Frigg
| 65m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Probably my favourite of the five
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| 5+ |
Odin
| 65m | ||||
| 5- |
★ Thor
| 65m | ★ Good | |||
|
Lovely setting, amazing rock, great to get out of the car
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| Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Brattberget | ||||||
| Stora väggen | ||||||
| 5a |
★★ Nebula
| 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
|
Good warm up
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| 6a+ |
★★ Halvrobban
| 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
|
Easy first part then a little cruxy
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| 6b |
★ Red Ajah
| 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Nice technical route
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| Tue 15th Oct 2019 - Os de Balaguer | ||||||
| Paret Sur Aida | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★★★ Aida
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Great mix of climbing styles with muggy roof to finish
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| 6c |
★★ Vasectomia al dia
| 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Nice steep flake to start then cool pocket sequence up high
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| Sun 13th Oct 2019 - Collegats | ||||||
| L'Argenteria | ||||||
| 6c |
★★ Fina
| 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Thouroughly engaging incipient finger crack and pockets
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| 6b |
★★ Áustria
| 30m | Average | |||
|
Average rock, got steeper at the top, but didn’t find it that good. Easy if you can hand jam
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| Sat 12th Oct 2019 - Camarasa | ||||||
| La Selva | ||||||
| 6c |
★★★ Gorronya Kejorronya
| 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Full value
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| Wed 9th Oct 2019 - Camarasa | ||||||
| Crestes de conill Cara nord | ||||||
| 6b+ |
No Em Facis La Cobra
| 28m | Average | |||
|
Climbs ok, but marred by the bolting I think which should have been more to the left in the upper part.
|
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| Wed 9th Oct 2019 - Camarasa | ||||||
| Crestes de conill Cara sud | ||||||
| 6a |
Sbutnic
| 20m | Average | |||
|
Rebooted, starts of across groove, but then gets into sharp pockets.
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| Sat 5th Oct 2019 - Camarasa | ||||||
| La Pera | ||||||
| 6b |
Aixo es la Pera
| 25m | Average | |||
|
Not that memorable. An ok warm up
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| 7a |
★★ Un Bon Passage
| 32m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Almost Blueys feeling, crimps, side pulls and some glue. Climbed up and down at the lower crux about 6 times working out the reachy sequence ( dave didn’t even notice this) and got the top crux well, quite exciting.
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| Fri 4th Oct 2019 - Camarasa | ||||||
| Fashion | ||||||
| 6c |
★★ Dolce & marrana
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
More awesome pockets with no polish
|
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| 6a+ |
★ Vitorio & cochino
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
|
Fun fun fun
|
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| Thu 3rd Oct 2019 - Collegats | ||||||
| L'Argenteria | ||||||
| 6b |
★★ Fidel no T’agobies
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
|
Rock looks suspect, but climbs well.
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| Sat 28th Sep 2019 - Rodellar | ||||||
| El Camino | ||||||
| 6a+ |
★ Bugs Bunny
| 12m, 6 | Average | |||
|
I think I went right to the anchors of the 6c at the top. Rather polished, pumpy warm up
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| Thu 26th Sep 2019 - Rodellar | ||||||
| La Fuente | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ Ta Finde con Tónica
| 15m | Average | |||
|
Not much of a warm up.
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| Sat 21st Sep 2019 - Mallos de Agüero | ||||||
| Os Bolicos | ||||||
| 5+ |
Via 1
| 15m, 6 | Average | |||
|
A bit better than the first route, more limestone cementing the pebbles
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| Mon 16th Sep 2019 - Somahoz | ||||||
| 6a |
★★ Harakiri
| 15m, 5 | Average | |||
|
Ok, a bit blocky
|
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| 6b+ |
Block and rock
| 15m, 6 | Don't Bother | |||
|
Contrived
|
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| 6a+ |
★★ Maquina Total
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
|
Nice juggy roof
|
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| Mon 16th Sep 2019 - Pechón | ||||||
| Pasarela | ||||||
| 6a+ |
★★ Jandro Cotizando
| 18m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
|
The best of the 3 easier routes, but still climbing delicately past a big block. Hard start.
|
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| 6a |
Belén (Belen)
| 20m | Average | |||
| 6a |
Variante Jato
| 20m | Don't Bother | |||
|
Sharp and generally not great
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| Mon 9th Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
| Caldueño Cuevas | ||||||
| 6b |
★ Toro sentado
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
|
The reconcreted blobs up high look bad but seem ok.
|
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| 6a+ |
★ El secrets del Esquilu
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
|
These climbs looked pretty average, but they are well bolted, and climbed well
|
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| Sun 8th Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
| Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
| 5+ 5 |
★ Variante Tunante
| 10m | Average | |||
|
Quite polished. Much preferred the Mar sector. Hard finish due to dirt.
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| 6a+ |
★★ El Repris de Rafita
| 11m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
|
The nicest route from today, and easier than the 5 +.
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| Sat 7th Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
| Cuevas del Mar Mar | ||||||
| 6a+ |
★ Chupa de me voy
| 11m | ★ Good | |||
|
This felt harder than the 6 b+
|
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| 6a |
★★ Bota de Vino con Cordino
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
|
Fun tufa climbing on the beach
|
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| 6a |
★★ Mucho Jeta Legarreta
| 11m | Average | |||
| Wed 4th Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
| Las Cabadas | ||||||
| 6b |
★★ Latena
| 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
The best route I did, should have started on this wall
|
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| 6b+ |
★ Cayuenga
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
|
Quite hard, a bit polished, and committing mantle
|
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| 6a |
★ Barriu Mediu
| 10m | Average | |||
| Tue 3rd Sep 2019 - Los Zaborros de los Llanos | ||||||
| Los Zamorros | ||||||
| 5+ |
★ 2 - Paticalzada (Five plus)
| 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
The rock looks a bit dodgy, but it climbs well, and well bolted
|
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| Mon 2nd Sep 2019 - Desfiladero de la Hermida | ||||||
| Lebeña Puente de Lebeña | ||||||
| 6b+ |
Cinco
| 15m | Average | |||
|
A bit contrived to stay direct, these 3 routes bolted very close
|
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| 6a |
★ Seis
| 15m | ★ Good | |||