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Valle del Sarca

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 142
  • Ascents: 14,089
  • Aka: Arco Area
  • Aka: Sarca Valley

Seasonality

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Summary

The Sarca Valley, stretching out north from Arco is the main climbing area in the wider region of Arco. It is complemented by many other crags just outside the valley but close to Arco.

Arco has it all, endless cliffs, Lago di Garda, a beautiful historic town with plenty of climbing shops and a long tradition of climbing, amongst them the Arco Rock Masters - simply a climber's dream.

Description

The Sarca Valley (Valle del Sarca) is an outstanding climbing area north of Lake Garda (Lago di Garda). The sheer number of high rock faces, coupled with the proximity to the lake, the picturesque town of Arco and Italian lifestyle, makes the valley a great destination for many climbing holidays.

If you want to go sport climbing, however, you have to accept the popularity of the area and the associated wear and tear on the rock walls. Many routes in the well-known sectors, such as 'Massone', are already very polished. But there is so much to choose from that everyone will find something for sure.

The high walls of the valley attract with short ascents and spectacular views. Also here there is something for everyone. Whether beginner or expert, whether sport or trad climber.

Located in the valley, Arco and its wider surroundings offer a lifetime worth of vie ferrata, sport and multi-pitch climbing on limestone. While high season is from early spring to late fall, Arco offers climbing year round. Amongst the hundreds of crags in the region there is always one that is dry, sunny or shady and at the right altitude to make it a pleasant spot for your day out. The same can be said regarding grades and styles of climbing. There is enough for everyone. From beginners to top athletes, from slabs to steep overhangs, from boulders to multi-pitch climbs - you choose it!

Be aware that the area is especially popular around Easter or other holidays when many German and climbers from all over the world flock to here. While this might make it hard to find a table in your favourite pizzeria, there is always a crag that will be deserted, even during high season. Make your choice.

For rest days there are a lot of opportunities:

  • mountain biking
  • hiking
  • sailing
  • windsurfing
  • kite-surfing
  • sightseeing
Note:
The crags are sorted from Arco going to the Western side of the valley and then upstream, heading over to the Eastern side and back downstream to Arco.

Access issues

Many crags in the area of Arco are located on private land and the huge popularity of climbing and the resulting crowds brought it with it, that issues with land owners popped up in the past and continue to pop up from time to time. Please be sensitive to regional closures and limitations to access. Stay informed and stick to local regulations.

Approach

Arco is located just north of Lago di Garda and less than 40km South West of Trento in the region of Trentino-Alto Adige / South Tyrol (Südtirol). It is easily reached either from the highway connecting Milan with Venice (West - East) or from the highway from Innsbruck (Austria) to Verona (North - South). While some crags are in walking distance from town or the camp sites, many will require you to have a car or transport.

For a detailed description on how to reach Arco by fair means visit the Ecopoint Web-Site.

Where to stay

Arco is a touristy place with climbing tourists being a major group. You will find all sorts of accommodation, from camp sites to hostels, agriturismos and luxury hotels. Be aware that during high season - for example around Easter - many popular places, including camp sites, might be fully booked.

History

History timeline chart

The history of climbing in Arco is almost as old as the history of climbing itself, at least of sport climbing. Sport climbing in Arco started in the early 1980's and often Arco, or the climbers developing and climbing in that area, set the standards. It was also in Arco that climbing competitions became popular with the first Arco Rock Masters in 1985.

Tags

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Mandrea area
26
35
27m
Closed Placche di Baone crag
22
105
71m
L'Orto cliff
28
479
19m
Calvario crag
26
338
18m

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
112
175
110m
1

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Sarche area
270
603
48m
4
34
118
17m
2
Limarock cliff
14
11
22m
121
508
25m
La Gola cliff
177
1,456
22m
Ranzo area
214
329
24m
Lon cliff
23
0
23m
San Siro crag
78
208
24m
1
Cavedine cliff
29
65
20m
Warning Dos Pelá cliff
11
103
7m
1

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Cristian Dorigatti & Morris Fontanari

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9788855470797

A comprehensive guidebook describing a wide range of bouldering from the Sarca valley to the heart of the Dolomites, covering 1,000’s of boulder problems at 45 crags in 8 main areas

Author(s): Florian Kluckner

Date: 2020

Author(s): Graham Fletcher & John Smith

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9781852843809

A selective guidebook describing 77 Via Ferrata routes in the Southern Italian Dolomites, including Brenta and Lake Garda.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 10 May
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