Valle del Sarca Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Valle del Sarca 2,940 routes in Crag

36 35 31 33 34 32 26 27 30 28 29 25 37 38 24 39 23 22 40 21 41 20 18 19 17 42 43 45 16 44 46 15 3 47 11 4 48 12 7 1 49 8 2 10 50 14 13 51 9 5 6 53 52

1 Parete di Padaro 2 Le Piazzole 3 Mandrea 4 Mappamondo 5 Placche di Baone 6 Bus de la Stria 7 Salt de la Cavra 8 L'Orto 9 Calvario 10 Muro dell'Asino 11 Red Point Wall 12 Monte Colt - San Paolo 13 Massi di Prabi 14 Monte Colodri 15 Parete di Mandrea 16 Coste Dell'Anglone 17 Cima alle coste 18 Monte Brento 19 Massi di Gaggiolo 20 Placche Zebrate 21 Pala delle Lastiele 22 Pian dela Paia 23 Pietramurata 24 Monte Casale 25 Sarche 26 Maso Limarò 27 Limarock 28 Gola del Limarò 29 Bassilandia 30 La Gola 31 Santa Massenza 32 Margone 33 Coel dela Val dela Porta 34 Ranzo 35 Lon 36 Teatro delle Marionette 37 Castel Madruzzo 38 Lagolo 39 San Siro 40 La Cosina 41 Cavedine 42 Castello di Drena 43 Rio Sallagoni 44 Open Air Gallery Progetto 3000 45 Dos Pelá 46 Lastoni di Dro 47 Grottosauro 48 Terra Promessa 49 Piccola Dallas 50 Massone 51 Falesia Family San Martino 52 Parete dell'Ir 53 Parete di Pezol

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.005117, 10.946757

summary

The Sarca Valley, stretching out north from Arco is the main climbing area in the wider region of Arco. It is complemented by many other crags just outside the valley but close to Arco.

Arco has it all, endless cliffs, Lago di Garda, a beautiful historic town with plenty of climbing shops and a long tradition of climbing, amongst them the Arco Rock Masters - simply a climber's dream.

description

The Sarca Valley (Valle del Sarca) is an outstanding climbing area north of Lake Garda (Lago di Garda). The sheer number of high rock faces, coupled with the proximity to the lake, the picturesque town of Arco and Italian lifestyle, makes the valley a great destination for many climbing holidays.

If you want to go sport climbing, however, you have to accept the popularity of the area and the associated wear and tear on the rock walls. Many routes in the well-known sectors, such as 'Massone', are already very polished. But there is so much to choose from that everyone will find something for sure.

The high walls of the valley attract with short ascents and spectacular views. Also here there is something for everyone. Whether beginner or expert, whether sport or trad climber.

Located in the valley, Arco and its wider surroundings offer a lifetime worth of vie ferrata, sport and multi-pitch climbing on limestone. While high season is from early spring to late fall, Arco offers climbing year round. Amongst the hundreds of crags in the region there is always one that is dry, sunny or shady and at the right altitude to make it a pleasant spot for your day out. The same can be said regarding grades and styles of climbing. There is enough for everyone. From beginners to top athletes, from slabs to steep overhangs, from boulders to multi-pitch climbs - you choose it!

Be aware that the area is especially popular around Easter or other holidays when many German and climbers from all over the world flock to here. While this might make it hard to find a table in your favourite pizzeria, there is always a crag that will be deserted, even during high season. Make your choice.

For rest days there are a lot of opportunities:

• mountain biking
• hiking
• sailing
• windsurfing
• kite-surfing
• sightseeing

Note:

The crags are sorted from Arco going to the Western side of the valley and then upstream, heading over to the Eastern side and back downstream to Arco.

access issues

Many crags in the area of Arco are located on private land and the huge popularity of climbing and the resulting crowds brought it with it, that issues with land owners popped up in the past and continue to pop up from time to time. Please be sensitive to regional closures and limitations to access. Stay informed and stick to local regulations.

approach

Arco is located just north of Lago di Garda and less than 40km South West of Trento in the region of Trentino-Alto Adige / South Tyrol (Südtirol). It is easily reached either from the highway connecting Milan with Venice (West - East) or from the highway from Innsbruck (Austria) to Verona (North - South). While some crags are in walking distance from town or the camp sites, many will require you to have a car or transport.

For a detailed description on how to reach Arco by fair means visit the Ecopoint Web-Site.

where to stay

Arco is a touristy place with climbing tourists being a major group. You will find all sorts of accommodation, from camp sites to hostels, agriturismos and luxury hotels. Be aware that during high season - for example around Easter - many popular places, including camp sites, might be fully booked.

history

The history of climbing in Arco is almost as old as the history of climbing itself, at least of sport climbing. Sport climbing in Arco started in the early 1980's and often Arco, or the climbers developing and climbing in that area, set the standards. It was also in Arco that climbing competitions became popular with the first Arco Rock Masters in 1985.

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1.1. Parete di Padaro 174 routes in Crag

11 10 8

8 Gotico 10 Las Reinas 11 Capello di Paglia

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.934751, 10.866715

summary

Very popular single-pitch sport climbing crag near Arco but also some longer classics.

description

Nice crag above the village Padaro near Arco. It's face is south oriented and best time is in the winter months from October to March.

approach

From Arco drive to Padaro and pass the village. Below the road makes to turns and between them there are two little parking lots. Don't park in the turns as lorries may come through. From the second turn follow the paths to the crag.

1.1.1. Corazòn 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

The leftmost upper sector.

1.1.2. Solarium 29 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.1.3. Il Balcone 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

Right and below Soalrium.

1.1.4. Cicciosauro 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.1.5. La Prua Mazinga 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.1.6. Mazinga 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.1.7. Gufetta 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

approach

This sector is 10 meters to the right of the Boschetto sector. Climb up the fixed rope to the right.

1.1.8. Gotico 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.932509, 10.863919

1.1.9. Himmelsreiter 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

approach

Drive to Padaro and park at the southern entrance of the village or near the church. Walk west out of the village through olive grove. After 10 min at a junction (cairn) turn right for Las Reinas, left for Himmelsreiter.

1.1.10. Las Reinas 26 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.934297, 10.866058

approach

Drive to Padaro and park at the southern entrance of the village or near the church. Walk west out of the village through olive grove. After 10 min at a junction (cairn) turn right for Las Reinas, left for Himmelsreiter.

1.1.11. Capello di Paglia 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.934842, 10.866486

1.1.12. Il Poggiolo 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

A new addition in the area of Padaro.

approach

Make your way to Padaro. Parking lots are located shortly after the start of the village. From the park take via Montegrappa turn left into via Carbonare. Arrived at the end of the road, as soon as you enter the woods at the crossing, turn right and pass the sectors of "Ali di Mosca" and "Capello di Paglia" and continue on the path for 30/40 meters to the sector Il Poggiolo which can be easily reached using a fixed rope. Continuing along the path after another 30 meters, you reach the base of sector Etico. Both sectors are located to the east.

1.2. Le Piazzole 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.931557, 10.860566

description

Relatively new crag bolted in 2011. Take the road toward Padaro. About 1km before the village there is a concrete path on the left heading steeply up hill with space for 3 cars to park by the main road. More cars will fit 200m downhill in a pullout, or 300m up hill at the shrine for Saint Rocco. Walk up concrete path then onto cobbled dirt track. After 15 min head right at a cairn up towards the cliff. There is a topo board at the start of the crag.

South-east facing, but the base stays in the shade for a long time due to the surrounding trees.

approach

The approach path is steep but otherwise easy to navigate and gains about 250m of altitude.

1.3. Mandrea 26 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.946147, 10.880736

1.4. Mappamondo 29 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.942811, 10.878331

1.5. Placche di Baone 22 routes in Crag

1 2

1 Attimo Fuggente 2 Ondulina

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.925073, 10.870973

access issues

Because of a massive rock slide in March 2021 this crag is closed until further notice. See the official emergency ordinance no. 53.

As reported by Defcon5 on 3.7.2022, the closure still exists.

1.5.1. Attimo Fuggente 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.925288, 10.869720

1.5.2. Ondulina 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.924817, 10.871999

1.6. Bus de la Stria 33 routes in Cliff

3 2 1

1 Pulivapor 2 La Dolce Vita 3 Conti d'Arco

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.924799, 10.877106

description

Small cliff located among the olive trees to the right of the Placche di Baone.

approach

From Arco drive in direction of Chiarano. Still on the right go straight up passing below the fountain. Then turn left and go up to the olive grove where you park. Then continue on foot uphill towards the East. Take a small downhill path that leads to Laghel and immediately turn left towards the wall.

1.6.1. Pulivapor 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.924186, 10.876411

1.6.2. La Dolce Vita 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.924503, 10.876900

1.6.3. Conti d'Arco 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.925435, 10.877744

1.7. Salt de la Cavra 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.935688, 10.876797

approach

From Arco follow the signs for Laghel. Once you reach the white church, turn left uphill on the asphalt road and continue straight until you reach a concrete road. Park on the left at the beginning of the steep section and continue on foot to the house. Once you arrive take the path in the woods on the left which leads to a hill. There continue up to traliccio dell'Enel, pass below and on the right reach the cliff.