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Routes in Valle del Sarca for selected grade

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Showing all 57 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Le Piazzole
5b L'ultima
Sport 21m, 13
Closed Placche di Baone Ondulina
5b Solarium
Sport 53m, 2
5b Figoviz
Sport 75m, 3
L'Orto
5b Rucola

Dihedral. Apparently wrong name written at the base of the route.

Sport 16m
5b Zucchine

First route on right-hand side of dihedral. Apparently wrong name written at the base of the route.

Sport 16m
Calvario
5b Mam
Sport 9m
Muro dell'Asino Asino Svizzero
5b Omer

Same start as Bart, leftmost variant.

Sport 26m
Muro dell'Asino La Placca
5b La Thermos dei Desideri
Sport 20m
5b Bergamici
Sport 25m
5b Calcio D'angolo
Sport 26m
Red Point Wall Faustolo
5b Unnamed 1

Same anchor like 'Edolo'

Sport 30m
Red Point Wall Altissimo
5b Raja Yoga
Sport 26m
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di San Paolo Sud
{UIAA} 6- Via Linda
1 5 20m
2 5 30m
3 2 10m
4 6- 30m

Bolts and rock tunnels, some frineds and slings are recommended two sequences with VI option to add another pitch with two versions (right: nice groove, left: hard and very alpine bolted groove, but nice climb! Mind the rope drag, use super long slings) http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/linda.htm

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-linda-arco/

FA: Franz und Martin Heiß, Heinz Grill, Jänner, Dario Cabas & Masera, Jan 2016

Trad 90m, 4
{UIAA} 6- Via Sabina Direkt
1 3+
2 4
3 6-
4 4
5 4
6 5+

This variation goes direct through roof/corner system on P3 (protected by new-ish looking piton).

A few pitons and some rope tied through rock tunnels. Each belay has 1 bolt + a tree or rock tunnel. No trad gear needed except extra slings, but a few medium/large nuts would reduce the often long run-outs.

To find the start: Park at the Pizzeria Lanterna (and grab a beer there after) and head S on the road ~150 m until you see a path. Then head up and to the left until you hit the wall, then head left. The route is after Caldo Inverno and La Cengia Rossa and the scrambly start is marked in red and black paint.

Trad 170m, 6
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di San Paolo Sud Promontorio di Kroz
5b No Name

Water holes and friction. Old pegs (red).

Sport 25m
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di San Paolo Nord
{UIAA} 6- Nuova Via
1 6- 30m
2 4 48m
3 5+ 30m
4 5+ 15m
5 6- 35m

This is a newer variant of Via Argo. It climbs cleaner and with less vegetation.

Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill & Franz Heiss, 2014

Sport 160m, 5
{UIAA} 6- Via Aganippe
1 5+ 20m
2 6- 35m
3 5+ 40m
4 5 28m
5 6- 30m

Set: H. Grill, F. Heiss & F. Kluckner, 2007

Sport 150m, 5
{UIAA} 6- Via Due Piccoli Pilastri
1 5
2 5+
3 4-
4 6-
5 6-

Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill & Martin Mocek, 2013

Sport 150m, 5
Massi di Prabi Masso C
5b No. 23
Sport 8m
Massi di Prabi Masso H
5b 1
Sport
Massi di Prabi Masso I
5b No. 40
Sport 8m
5b No. 41
Sport 8m
Coste Dell'Anglone Parete di Sherwood
5b Little John
1 5b
2 5a
3 2a
4 4c

name is written on the base

Sport 100m, 4
Massi di Gaggiolo Sas Elena
5b Quì
Sport 10m
5b Quà
Sport 10m
5b N.N.
Sport 10m
Placche Zebrate
5b Opera Prima
Sport 100m, 3
5b Via delle mimose
1 5b 30m
2 3 40m
3 3 30m
Sport 100m, 3
5b Donne in cerca di guai

FA: O. Piazza & I. Mascivecchio, 1990

Sport 120m, 3
5b Zo le man

FA: D. Pinamonti & V. Degasperi, 2011

Sport 120m, 3
5b A0 Giusy

FA: D. Filippi, 2012

Sport 150m, 3
5b Via Trento
1 4a 25m
2 4a 25m
3 5b 45m
4 5a 40m
5 4a 45m

Guidebooks rate it 5a-5b, but feels 4c max. Well secured with bolts. Easy descent from top by walking down through a scree and then along trails.

Sport 180m, 5, 7
Monte Casale I° Pilastro
6- Via Cristina

Friends necessary

Set: M.Furlani & L. Puiatti, 1980

Mixed trad 450m, 15
5+ - 6 Ugo Merz

FA: R.Larcher & S.Ventura, 1983

Trad 450m, 15
Sarche Sisyphos
5b Don Juan
Sport 10m
Sarche Piccolo Dain Parete del Centrale
5b Orizzonti Dolomitici

FA: A. Zanetti, 2003

Sport 250m, 10
Maso Limarò
5b Lisbet
Sport 10m
5b Diedron
Sport 20m
La Gola Il Giardino
5b Celeste
Sport 15m
5b Thomas
Sport 14m
5b Thomas
Sport 15m
5b Viola
SportProject 35m
La Gola La Casa del Piacere
5b Simone
1 3c 7m
2 5b 7m

1SL: 3c; 7m 2SL: 5b; 7m

Sport 14m, 2
5b Anna
Sport 14m
5b Aldo
Sport 13m
Santa Massenza Due laghi
{UIAA} 6- Il Gran Diedro
1 6- 12m
2 6- 30m
3 6- 30m
4 5+ 25m
5 5+ 30m
6 4 15m
7 5- 30m
8 5 35m
9 4+ 55m

FA: Omar Oprandi, Sabrina Oprandi, Heinz Grill, Florian Kluckner & Franz Heiß, 2004

Trad 260m, 9
Ranzo Il Bersaglio Upper Sector La terrazza
5b Giorni Ardenti
Sport 20m
La Cosina
5b Codibugnolo
Sport 4m
5b Fringuello
Sport
5b Lorenzo
Sport 16m
Massone Settore A
5b Giacca Gialla
Sport 15m
5b Camillo
Sport 15m
5b Emiliano
Sport 10m
5b Valentino
Sport 10m
Massone Settore C
5b Impretrite's
Sport 15m
Falesia Family San Martino Juniors
5b Harry Potter
Sport 15m
Parete dell'Ir Parete dell'Ir Inferiore
{UIAA} 6- Via del Gufetto
1 6- 20m
2 6- 20m
3 6- 30m
4 5- 40m
5 6- 35m

This route can be perfectly combined with "Variante, Via del Gufetto, Superiore" A set of friends and nuts is highly recommended. Topos can be found here: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-del-gufetto-parete-dell-ir/ (German) or https://www.arrampicata-arco.com/via-del-gufetto.html (Italian)

FA: Florian Kluckner, Walter Maino & Sandra Schieder, Feb 2018

Trad 150m, 5

Showing all 57 routes.

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