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Routes in Valle del Sarca for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 125 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Parete di Padaro
{UIAA} 6 Esculapio
1 5+ 20m
2 6 35m
3 6- 35m
4 6 30m
5 6- 30m
6 5 50m
7 5- 20m
8 1 15m
9 5+ 25m
10 5 35m

Very nice multi pitch route with belay anchors and bolts where it is hard to set up protection with trad gear. Rocks and friends are necessary for the cracks. The view to Arco and the Lago di Garda is amazing.

FA: Grill, Cabas, Heiß & Masera, 2007

Mixed trad 300m, 10, 33
{UIAA} 6 Via della Rampa
1 6
2 6
3 5+
4 5+
5 3
6 6
7 4
8 5+
9 5+
10 2

FA: H. Grill, F. Heiss & S. Konigseder, 2009

Trad 220m, 10
Le Piazzole
5c Equilibrio
Sport 22m, 13
5c Precisione
Sport 23m
5c In punta di piedi
Sport 22m
5c Blackboard
Sport 22m, 13
Mandrea
5c Unknown 3
Sport 12m
Closed Placche di Baone Ondulina
5c Scala Rovescia
Sport 25m
L'Orto
5c Sedano
Sport 12m
5c Piselli
Sport 12m
5c Rapa Rossa
Sport 16m
5c Rapanello
Sport 16m
5c Zigole
Sport 16m
Muro dell'Asino Passera
5c Austriaca Puro Latte
Sport 15m
Muro dell'Asino Asino Svizzero
5c Collezione Di Farfalle
Sport 25m
5c Marge

Same start as Omer, right variant.

Sport 26m
Muro dell'Asino La Placca
5c Testo finito
Sport 26m
5c Giovanna
Sport 15m
Red Point Wall Centrale
5c Easter Egg
Sport
Red Point Wall Faustolo
5c Faustolo
Sport 26m
5c Edolo
Sport 30m
5c Unnamed 2

Same start like 'Unnamed 1'

Sport 30m
Monte Colt - San Paolo Croce ceniga
5c - 6a Via dell Arco
1 4c
2 5c - 6a
3 5a
4 5c
5 5b

Kreuzt in der 4.Sl die via crucis

Sport 170m, 5
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di Monte Colt Multi-Pitch Sector
{UIAA} 6 Via Flavia
1 4 40m
2 5- 25m
3 6 25m
4 5+ 25m
5 4+ 25m
Trad 140m, 5
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di San Paolo Sud
{UIAA} 6 Via Linda (linker Ausstieg) Trad 50m, 2
{UIAA} 6 Via Elda
1 6 20m
2 6 30m
3 5 45m
4 5+ 35m
5 5+ 35m

Bolts, rock tunnels and trees Some slings and friends are recommended two little overhangs are rated with VI http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/elda.htm

S3/R1 https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-elda-arco/

FA: Dario Cabas, Pierangelo Masera & Demis Arlnach, 2013

Mixed trad 170m, 5, 25
5c Caldo Inverno
1 5c
2 5c
3 4a
4 5c
5 5a
6 4c
7 5c

nice climb on east Parete San Paolo side - avoid during summer morning/midday!!! all spit, some clepsydras

FA: D. Cabas, P. Masera, H. Grill, F. Kluckner & K. Oppermann, 2012

Sport 160m, 7
{UIAA} 6 Via Selene
1 5+ 32m
2 6- 40m
3 6 35m
4 5+ 35m
5 5 25m
6 6- 20m
7 5+ 32m
8 5+ 28m

Topo: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/selene-parete-san-paolo-arco/

Set: Heinz Grill, Florian Kluckner, Andrea Kluckner & Sigrid Königseder, 2007

Sport 250m, 8
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di San Paolo Sud Promontorio di Kroz
5c Senza bom
Sport 17m
5c Il Primo Specchio

New bolts, but with a long runout in the middle.

Sport 15m
5c Senza Balle
Sport 20m
5c Con un Fischio
Sport 12m
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di San Paolo Nord
{UIAA} 6 Via delle Cariti
1 5- 35m
2 6- 25m
3 6 40m
4 6- 35m
5 5+/6- 30m
6 6- 15m
7 5+/6- 40m

Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill, Sandra Schieder & Andrea Farneti, Jan 2019

Sport 220m, 7
{UIAA} 6 Via Aphrodite
1 6
2 6
3 5
4 3
5 5+
6 6
7 6
8 6-

Set: Heinz Grill, Franz Heiss & Florian Kluckner, 2006

Sport 180m, 8, 27
{UIAA} 6 Via Helena
1 5+
2 5+
3 5+
4 6
5 6
6 5
7 4+
8 6

FFA: H. Grill, F. Heiß, F. Kluckner, A. Kluckner, S. Königseder & U. Grothen, 2006

Sport 230m, 8
{UIAA} 6 Dulcis in Fondo
1 4+
2 6
3 5

Relatively short route with quite much vegetation. The second pitch contains a rewarding section with a small roof (UIAA 6, maybe easier). The protection is appropriate for the grades, with anchors at trees. There are slings and a few bolts in between.

FA: Dario Cabas & Pierangelo Masera, 2014

Trad 100m, 3
Massi di Prabi Masso B
5c/c+ E Per Si Muove
Sport 12m
5c Tienila
Sport 12m
Massi di Prabi Masso E
5c 1
Sport 5m
Massi di Prabi Masso M
5c 2
Sport
Massi di Prabi Masso O
5c 1
Sport
Monte Colodri Rupe Secca
5c Cinque stagioni
Sport 180m, 8
5c Aspettando Martino

An adventure climb that winds up the East face. Is an excellent line that holds many beautiful styles of climbing. Be aware of some old bolts, most bolts are solid but one or two need replacing.

For the descent take care. Staying roped up along the traverse is recommended as bolts are far and infrequent. Using numerous slings on solid and well rooted trees can be used as protection when needed.

FA: Ufficip Alpine Guide Arco, 1998

Sport 180m, 7
Monte Colodri Parete Sud
{UIAA} 6 A3 Pomi Coti
Sport 200m, 6
Monte Colodri Closed Laghel B
5c Bongo
1 5c
2 5c
3 5a
Sport 50m, 3
Parete di Mandrea Mandrea di Laghel
UIAA:6 Pilastro Gabrielli
Trad 250m, 5
UIAA:6 Black Hole
Trad 250m, 7
Coste Dell'Anglone Parete Nord
6 Via Archai
1 5
2 5+
3 6
4 6-
5 6
6 6
7 5
8 6-
9 6-
10 5+
11 6-

6 with 5 A0 passages. Some middle sized friends are highly recommended

FA: Heinz Grill, Franz Heiss & Sigrid Koenigseder, 2006

Mixed trad 300m, 11, 12
6 Via la piccola piramide

Obligatorisch 6-A0

Set: H. Grill & A. Klucker, 2007

Mixed trad 380m, 12, 25
6 Le Scalette dell' Indria
1 4 32m
2 4 32m
3 6 20m
4 5+ 35m
5 6 40m
6 3 20m
7 5+ 40m
8 4+ 40m
9 5+ 20m
10 5+ 20m
11 5+ 50m

FA: H. Grill, F. Kluckner & M. Staufer, 2007

Trad 350m, 11
Coste Dell'Anglone Piramide Lakshmi
{UIAA} 6 Sofia
1 4+
2 5+
3 5+
4 6
5 5
6 4

FA: D. Cabas & P.Masera, 2009

Trad 230m, 6
{UIAA} 6 Il Mercurio Serpeggiante
1 4 45m
2 4- 55m
3 4 35m
4 4+ 45m
5 5- 52m
6 5+ 20m
7 6 40m
8 5- 40m
9 4+ 20m
10 5+ 45m
11 5+ 45m

http://www.arrampicata-arco.com/abozzo/piramide-lacsmi.pdf

Sport 440m, 11
Coste Dell'Anglone Parete di Sherwood
5c Sceriffo di Nottingham
1 5b
2 5b
3 2a
4 5c

Name is written on the base. Beware of rockfall and brittle rock.

Sport 100m, 4
Cima alle coste Lo Scudo
{UIAA} 6 A0 Dino Sottovia
1 3+ 60m
2 5+ 25m
3 4 30m
4 6 A0 35m
5 5 35m
6 4+ 35m
7 6 35m
8 5+ 30m
9 5- 40m
10 3 50m

FA: Paris, Pegoretti & Degasperi, 1981

Trad 380m, 10
{UIAA} 6 Sesto Grado

Attenzione, via protetta con piastrine artigianali molto distanziate e poco integrabile.

Mixed trad 300m, 7, 1
Cima alle coste Parete sud
6 Il mercurio serpeggiante
1 4 45m
2 4- 56m
3 4 35m
4 4+ 45m
5 5- 52m
6 5+ 20m
7 6 42m
8 5- 40m
9 4+ 20m
10 5+ 45m
11 5+ 45m

2 Zwischenstände möglich, dann reicht auch ein 50m Seil (statt einem 60m)

FA: 2008

Trad 450m, 11
6 Via del Dottore
1 3 35m
2 4+ 45m
3 4+ 25m
4 5 40m
5 5+ 20m
6 6 25m
7 5 40m
8 3 40m
9 5+ 35m
10 4+ 40m
11 4 25m

http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/dotore.htm

FA: Tony Zanetti, Mario Brighente & Davide Pasetto, 2008

Mixed trad 370m, 11, 6
Monte Brento Grande placconata
6 A0 Via Speranza

Set: H. Grill & F. Kluckner, 2002

Trad 900m, 18
6 Via Boomerang
1 3 50m
2 5 45m
3 6 45m
4 4 50m
5 4 25m
6 5 30m
7 5+ 40m
8 5+ 40m
9 5- 20m
10 5+ 45m
11 5+ 40m
12 3 50m
13 3 50m
14 5- 45m
15 1 50m
16 4 55m
17 4+ 40m
18 5+ 27m
19 5 30m
20 5+ 27m
21 4 50m

The route was modernized in 2009 and 2013. Many of the anchors have a drilled ring. Some belay stations on trees. Old sling material and some questionable pitons. Especially the anchor after pitch 16. The route is mostly difficult to protect with friends and does not always have solid rock. Pitons and slings can be helpful. Topo here: http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/index_htm_files/boomerang-relazione-2020.xcf.pdf

Set: M. Furlani, V. Chini, M. Degasperi & R. Mazzalai, 1979

Trad 850m, 21
Massi di Gaggiolo Sas Elena
5c N.N.2
Sport 12m
5c Guendalina
Sport 10m
Placche Zebrate
5c Cane trippa
1 4c 35m
2 5c 35m
3 4b 35m
4 4c 50m
5 4b 30m
6 5a 45m
7 4c 20m
Sport 250m, 7
5c Rita

Online topo

FA: A. Andreotti & M. Rossi, 1971

Sport 400m, 16
5c Teresa
1 4a
2 5a
3 5a
4 5a
5 5a
6 5b
7 5b
8 5a
9 5b
10 5b
11 5c
12 5b
13 4c
14 5b
15 5a

FA: M. Furlani & R. Bassi, 1979

Sport 400m, 15
5c Teresa variante FB

Beautiful and interesting variant which climbs very compact slabs, avoiding the first easy pitches of the route Teresa. Start is just to the right of the start of the route Teresa.

FA: F. Leoni & G. Bagattoli, 1981

Sport 400m, 16
5c Via Claudia(with var Rossi)
1 5c
2 3c
3 4a
4 4a
5 3c
6 4a
7 4a
8 5a
9 4c
10 5a
11 5a
12 4a
13 4a
14 4a

FA: A. Andreotti & M. Rossi, 1979

Sport 400m, 14
Pala delle Lastiele
{UIAA} 6 A0 L'Isola di Nagual

Bellissima via alpinistica che collega una serie di diedri fino alla sommità della Pala delle Lastiele. Roccia buona fino all'ottavo tiro, qualche blocco instabile. Gli ultimi due tiri, facili, sono su rocce rotte e instabili. Via protetta con chiodi, da integrare, soste su chiodi o su albero per la maggior parte. Due passaggi in A0 (6b) nel secondo e settimo tiro.

FA: F. Stedile & F.Giacomelli, 1982

Trad 290m, 10
Pian dela Paia Il Dain
6 Vegetable
1 6
2 6
3 3
4 1
5 5+
6 5+
7 5+
8 5
9 4+
10 4+

FA: G. Groaz, P. Baldo & L. Massarotto, 1981

Trad 300m, 10
6 A0 Via Angelo

Set: H. Grill & J. Blümel, 2000

Mixed trad 300m, 11, 50
6 A0 Via Spigolo

Set: H. Grill, F. Kluckner, A. Kluckner & F. Heiss, 2005

Mixed trad 300m, 10, 15
Pietramurata Camerette
5c Austria
Sport
Pietramurata Giardino di Nato
5c Gipelosa
Sport 8
Monte Casale I° Pilastro
5+ - 6 Ugo Merz

FA: R.Larcher & S.Ventura, 1983

Trad 450m, 15
Monte Casale 2° Pilastro
6 A1 Via Alba chiara

Set: M. Furlani, V. Chini, M.Degasperi & R. Mazzalai, 1981

Trad 700m, 22
Sarche Sisyphos
5c Croccante
Sport
5c Tu Mi Pungi
Sport
Sarche Sarche
5c Avvicinamento

Access to the ledge above.

Sport 18m
Sarche Piccolo Dain Southeast Face
5c Le Strane Voglie di Amélie
1 5b
2 5a
3 5b
4 5c
5 5c
6 5b
7 5a
8 4c

FA: A. Zanetti & D. Filippi, 2005

Sport 250m, 8
Sarche Piccolo Dain Parete del Centrale
5c Amazzonia
1 4a 20m
2 3a 30m
3 3a 25m
4 5a 30m
5 5a 30m
6 5b 30m
7 5a 25m
8 5a 30m
9 5c 35m
10 5b 40m
11 1 20m

Online topo

FA: A. Zanetti, 2005

Sport 320m, 11
{UIAA} 6 Moon bears
1 5-
2 3
3 4
4 5
5 6
6 6
7 4
8 6-
9 5-

Shares the starting traverse left with A and OD but is the first route to take off vertically. Follows dihedrals with good belay stances. Fully bolted.

FA: E. Salvaterra & M. Ghezzi, 2011

Sport 250m, 9
Maso Limarò
5c Enzo
Sport 15m
5c Maramao
Sport 9m
5c Unnamed 7
Sport 10m
5c Fessurando
Sport 20m
La Gola Il Tornante
5c Unnamed
Sport 15m
5c Bagigi
Sport 18m
La Gola Il Giardino
5c Matteo
Sport 15m
5c Peter Junior
Sport 15m
5c Pedro assente
Sport 14m
5c La spaccata
Sport 14m
5c Arianna
Sport 14m
5c Arianna
Sport 15m
5c Leonhard
SportProject 15m
La Gola Arcadioland
5c Sand Creek
Sport 16m
5c Ayutti tutti
Sport 12m
5c Una rosa in mezzo al...
Sport 24m
5c ?

New route, not in the guidebook, but it is found on the left side of Basloc. Grade is about 5c.

Sport 25m
5c Basloc
Sport 28m
5c Miclia
Sport 30m
Santa Massenza Due laghi
{UIAA} 6 A0 Via Giubileo
1 6 50m
2 5+ 30m
3 6 25m
4 6 40m
5 5 25m
6 5+ 30m
7 6 A0 40m
8 6 35m
Trad 280m, 8

Showing 1 - 100 out of 125 routes.

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