Routes in Europe for selected grade

Verlängerung von Brusthörle mitten durchs Dach

Bolted by Christian Winklmair

bis Henkel oben links; ohne linke Kante, Sitzstart

Trav. lr; Start bei 127 bis incl. 130, Sitzstart

Traverse von links inkl. 128, Stehstart

Traverse links - rechts, bis inkl. 143, Stehstart

Einsteig Oh captain, Ausstieg y=24x(x-2)

von der Tequila in die Schöne neue Welt und wieder zurück in die Tequila

The most difficult route at the 'Wilder Kaiser' and one of the most difficult multi pitch routes in the Alps.

Repetitions

• 1995 Georg Kronthaler (Winter, Aid Solo)
• 2004 Hari Berger (Redpoint)
• 2007 Much Mayer (Redpoint)
• 2009
  • Guido Unterwurzacher (Redpoint)
  • Ondra Benes (Redpoint)
  • Kilian Fischhuber (Redpoint)
• 2013 Barbara Zangerl (Redpoint)

Gear

• Dragon Cam: 00, 0, 2 x 1, 2, 3, 4
• Small Set of Wallnuts
• Double 60m Rope
• 10 Quickdraws
• Slings to reduce rope drag

Descent

When abseiling over the route, Alex Luger recommends to leave a tagline on the 4th pitch. Without it, it is complicated to reach the belay. Or take the easy descent via the east ridge of the mountain.

https://alex-luger.blogspot.com/2014/04/clip-and-topo-of-sangre-de-toro.html

sd. Start on sloper, up to good side pull, move right into corner, then straight up head wall.

Without the bottom block

Sit Start. Without the bottom block.

Sit Start

Sit Start

#sitstart ..... Climb up to a match box hold, then move left to arete and top.

#sitstart . Climb up and right to top out on big holds.

#sitstart ..... Same start as Into the Light, but exit out left.

#sitstart .... Low start. Link the too big hold together with interesting moves.

#sitstart ... Big jug start, long moves, then head right to join Winklen hammer top out.

#sitstart . Crimp your way out using big hold to direct finish.

#sitstart . Start far left, traverse right till big hold, top out.

#sitstart . Make interesting moves to gain the rail, then dyno to top.

#sitstart

#sitstart

#sitstart Kombination of The Dark Knight to Batcave