Routes in Oceania for selected grade

An amazing effort by a relatively unsung local.

This completely natural (read, "not chipped or glued" like its famous sibling) has some genuinely difficult (as if the grade weren't required to confirm it already) slabby traversing early on before pulling into Punks, climbing it for a few metres before escaping out R to the arete.

Start beneath the R-leading arch, a few metres up L of PitG.

The easiest line up a great, albeit only mildly overhanging wall. Probably the world's first 8b+ / 5.14a and ahead of its time in Australian terms - it took nearly ten years before an Aussie (Stuart Wyithe) repeated it!

Despite masses of beta available on the internet, it still sees very few quick ascents, hasn't been onsighted and is still regarded as somewhat of a testpiece with a redpoint crux far above the technical crux and accounting for many an accomplished climber.

Many argue the route is easier than when Wolfgang and Stefan Glowacz did it in the mid 80's due to the increased size of the crux glue hold (the notorious birdbath). For a while considered "only" 31, it seems to have re-consolidated at 32.

Start as for Punks in the Gunks. At its traverse, instead go up, L and up, up, up to chains at the top.

Mayan

Sit start at the back of the roof. Straight out to jug on lip and up.

Awesome sustained face climbing linking Lord of the Rings into Zorlac the Destroyer

Start as for 'Drowning Dicaprio', make some hard moves to gain the large side-pull, then climb left and finish as for 'Overboard'.

Start as for 'Iceberg Left' but continue straight up and top out onto the slab. Note: Broken crux hold as of 2021, yet to be re-climbed. Likely at least V11 now.

Start as for 'Collision Course' but after you gain the large rail continue right across some slopers to finish up 'Not Drowning, Waving'.

Big move to small edge, then big move to jug

Start: From low horizontal

Sit start on two angled slots and move up and left on crimps to finish on Epsilon Crack jug.

Steep face on pockets, slopers and edges

Start: As for 'Down Under'

Low start in cave. Big moves lead to finish jug above boulder. The extension is V7 on its own.

Left line of slopers through roof to jugs. Traverse right, up to next level and back left to jug.

Second Pitch to Mirage. Quentin approached from Seventh Pillar LHV via Snake in the Grass. More like 33 according to Alex Megos.

A link up. From the anchors of Snake Flake, traverse left into the top half of Groove Train via one bolt.

The scene of one of the biggest dummy spits in Australian climbing history. Cruelly stolen from Gordy by a roving Garth in his youthful prime. In a fit of vengeance Gordy promptly chipped off the vital holds, removed the bolts and covered the rest of the holds with sunscreen! Nathan Hoette managed to repeat it anyway. This is the extension of 'Tyranny' past a further two FHs to rap chain.

The hardest climbing on 'Spurt Wall'. Splits after 3rd bolt of 'Tyranny' and finishes up 'Lifestyling'.

A brilliant complex roof problem. Located 1 minute's walk downhill - left of the 'Sweet Sensation' cave. Sit-start right at the back of the cave, and climb out, down, and around to a cruxy finish out on the lip.

Start as for 'Apfenschaukel', but head right through a big gaston move. 2nd ascent was quickly made by Toni Lamprecht in about 5 minutes!

Start as for Mr Knox. Follow the obvious line of good holds out of the cave and head right via big moves to the arete. Continue up the right-hand arete to top out.

Popular. Sit start on good flakes at the lowest part of the roof and climb the line of flakes, pinches and edges all the way out to cruxy moves at the lip. Finish at the big jug on the face or top out.

Start back of cave with LH undercling jug and RH arete. Slap up arete and edges in roof. Give some beans to gain the arete and finish up glory jugs to top out. Stay tight to avoid dab. Recommend sweater over rock as crashpad. (Project #34 in guide).

📹 When in Rome

Start at the bottom of the cave, climb the long roof crack and top out through the little hole.

Stephen Waring

Trent Searcy

Start matched on the low hueco jug. Climb the steep orange/grey prow using the arete or directly up orange cove. Top out on jugs and slab.

Previously a long-standing open project prior to Klem's arrival. Originally graded 11, with some people thinking it's still not far off that.

One of the hardest routes in the Grampians. Sustained. Often mistakenly called Samosa, but the naming theme is Nicaraguan revolutionaries not pastries!

Crawl into the dark cave left of 'Passion' and sit-start on the right matching a big sloper. Traverse left via a massive iron-cross move (hence the name) and finish on the left.

Start on the furthest RH sloper right of 'Rave Heart' original start - then traverse left into 'Amniotic World' and finish up it.

Jump start, left of Body Eater, and dyno towards the lip and top out.

A big traverse starting to the right of Problem #3 and finishing as for Problem #1

Doesn't look like much but packs in some hard technical climbing. From a desperate sit start off side pulls climb the boulders nose past increasingly sloping holds.

Sit start/crouched on slopey edges and up pinching up the arete.

Sit start on the arete, slap up and finish as for The Quickening.

Start as for The Quickening, head right through crimps from the jug.

Sit start left of the arete on a sloping break. Hard moves leading left before moving up to a high and commiting finish.

A shameless linkup but worthy none the less! Start up middle path and continue as per the flying duck. Do the crux dyno of the duck and then immediately head left into a rest before finishing at the path of yin anchors.

Starts as per PFOD then joins CL for a couple of bolts. Takes traverse line a few meters south of CL to same anchor

The line out the middle of the big red cave. Three sections with increasing difficulties separated by good rests. Rock quality is second to none at the top. Glory jugging up final corner to double U bolt belay.

The RH finish to 'Le Petit Mort'. Keep on truckin' up the steep headwall after doind most of LPM. Some people start up Chasin' the 'Shadow' instead, but they are silly.

A whole new route without a single extra bolt!

Start as for Red Vinyl.

Extends Red Vinyl to the lip. No more bolts, although it does now have it's own anchor. Make sure you clip the last bolt on Red Vinyl then drop back down right, up, then back left to the crux. You need an alert belayer once you're out near the lip.

Dual Fuel? Jule Fuel? Who knows how it's meant to be spelt. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start as for Nomads / Red Vinyl

Start as for Red Vinyl then link into Breathing Gasoline after about 9m. This eliminates the rest on Breathing Gasoline, making this route rather more sustained! For the record, on 26/4/09, not really knowing what went where, Mike Patz sent a similar link-up at the same sort of grade, this time starting up the first few bolts of Nomads then finishing up Breathing Gasoline.

The other competitor for the most impressive line here, although it doesn't get as many stars. Yet to receive a 2nd ascent.

Start near the lonely boulder about 15m R of Bwana.

Up from the left to gain the faint arete then move R and up the steep grey face to the top.

Start as for 'Low Land' and once hitting the jug head straight up via a big move on crimps

Stand start on crimpy ledge, up to the crimpy sidepull and move over left to the glorius jug which is then only one dynamic move away from the top! Nice project, graded at around V8 - V10!

aka Death by a Thousand Cuts. Pretty meaty at the grade. Long Road Home into DIM.

Simian Ling Nights into DIM.

After The War into Descent Into Madness. Hardest moves near the start... but there’s plenty to keep you thinking late.

Mega. Stand start in the pit down right as for Day of the Ape. Up left as for DOTA to gaston on HD. Epic shoulder press down into start of straining rail finishing via whichever of its variants pick your fancy. Quite a few tough moves in a row. Worth extending left for the full experience.

Beware the monster. When you find it you’ll know. All time, hard and a bit terrifying. Roof to hard moves to gain the flake and amazing arete. Be careful up high.

Sit start to Tantalus. Overall, no harder than the original but the sit start adds some nice moves and a little fatigue.

Tantalus' crimpier, narrower neighbour. Compress up the left arête and right crimp rail from a stand (left hand sharp side-pull on the arête and right on the crimp rail)

This is deceptively difficult. A very short problem - one hard move. Use the positive holds on the arete to reach the obvious ledge (finish here) - use a controlled pull from the ground - do not jump from the ground. Stand start.

Sit-start and climb the scooped, featured arete to a crimp on the lip. From here traverse right, matching on the sloper to gain better holds and the top out. Fantastic climbing - make sure you match the sloper! Dont even need to try this to see it's 3 stars!

Sit start in the hueco down low. Work your way along the rail in the cave into Slippery Nipple Stand. Area Classic.

A real hidden classic.

Sit start under the steep wall on the right side, at the big undercling.

Head up following some slopey ledges, then swing across to left side of bloc, tricky tension moves guard the finish up then onto the arete. Highly recommended to scrub the top, as this bloc doesn’t get much sun.

Stand start. Hard mantle around a bulge.

This boulder is 10 m down stream of Mad Woman's Breakfast.

Sitting on other boulders, there is a short roof under the boulder. From the start position, your back is to the river.

Sit start on obvious large sloping feature with your left heel by your hands. Up to a small slopey crimp, or if you like, to the very small, incut and very sharp flexing crimp. Then pull hard and throw up to rail, match then very hard mantel top out.

Start at the Underbelly and link under through magic bean out other side.

Amazing short line. Stand start on good crimps then big hard dead point to slopper, match and mantle.

This has been glued since at least the early 2000s and likely done, this might possibly be 'New age'

Climb the imposing arete from a sit start, finishing up the left face.

SDS from detatched flake and dyno to lip via pinch rail before topping out.

A right hand hold below the pinch rail has broken, leaving the problem a little harder. It still awaits a post break FA.

Right sloper, left friction, then dyno? to massive jug

Chin up on the twin mono's. A taste of 'Action Directe' in New England!

From the Waterfall Dome Parking area follow the quad trail to the Dome, once you see the "Three Stooges" boulders, go uphill passing the stooges on the right for about 100m. As the hill gets steeper look to the right and you should see this boulder.

Sit start on obvious feature and head to right arete with difficulty and heel hooking. Once you get there, keep going up and left to top. Then keep your heart pumping by down climbing the 'Sickle of death project'.

Match on the big flake and dyno to glory

Low start sit/crouch R/H on slopey sidepull L/H on lowest sidepull flake, bump up right through sidepull to gain the flat edge/ bump left up through sidepull flakes then into the stand start

Sit start on heinous left hand pinch and right hand under cling or slopey side pull. Move up to slopey mono pocket intermediate before slapping to start of Pilum and finishing up the same way.

A Lesson in Core Movement direct. After the crux of core movement, head straight up to a slopey edge and delicately mantle your way out using various slopers and blind feet.

Direct top out of Eli's Closed Proj.

Start as for A Lesson In Core Movements and head up and right. Once at the lip, keep traversing right to top out as for Mick's Arete Left.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CNy4xvhlDih/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Start on the two slopers, a tricky sit move gains the right hand gaston finishing with a final jump to the lip. Not sure on the grade.

Sit start at the bottom right hand corner of the arete then move up and left on horrible slopes to a hard top out. NOTE: The far undercling holds on Micks arete are off.

Starts matched on obvious jug on the right side of the left arête. Head straight up using poor slopers and side pulls to mantle straight over the top. An awesome line.

Start: Sit start as for 'Yummy Noodle' Gain the tufa and move right under the capped roof on under clings as for 'Magic Beans' continue right across the little buldge, through the next little cave to finish as for Hydraulic

Start: Sit start as for 'Whats golden' but from the juggy underclings climb the short slick prow up and left on horrible slopes and pinches to finish on the high slot. Avoids the hand holds on the right wall and the left arete of 'Happy Pyramid'

Start as for 'Curve Ball' and finish as for 'Fast Ball' or 'Fast Ball Variant'. Harder than 'Bases Loaded' but not enough for an upgrade.

Start: As for Extened Line and link into all of fast ball or fast ball variant from the back ledge. Does not use any of the finish holds of 'Extended line' The big lip jug is off!

Start as for extended line but finish as for batter up

Starting 1-2m to the right of "Sinusoidal" on two edges in the roof. Move right to a pocket, and make a big move to the lip. Make your way up using crimps and slopers on the face ultimately joining "Sinusoidal" to finish

Just as you walk into the cave, start on two obvious juggy pockets just under the roof. Make a tough move out to a small crimp rail then a tricky jump to a flat ledge. Continue straight up the slab to top out.

Start as for room with a view but halfway out exit straight left through some tough moves to reach the jugs. The a large throw to lip before heading straight up the headwall to walk off.

Jenny Lin

Link Firing squad into broken boy solider exit. Once in double underclings of firing squad, make a hard move right to join the sloper rail of broken boy soldier and finish as per this problem. The whole Top Shelf (v3) ledge is off as are the Interloper (V4) slots/jugs under the roof.

Start: Sit as for Firing Squad.

Link the start of 'Top Shelf' into 'Bullet and a Target' into and topping out with 'High Calibre'.

6ft deep into Rats cause broken brains

Sit start on left hand crimp and right hand undercling pinch. Head straight out the rooflet into gold member. The back step isnt in to start.