Ardèche Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Ardèche 2,448 routes in Region

16 15 27 17 19 18 14 26 13 12 11 10 9 20 23 24 8 21 7 6 5 4 22 2 25 3 1

1 Saint Sauveur de Cruzières 2 Gorges du Chassezac 3 Gorges de l'Ardèche 4 Saint Montan - La Sainte Beaume 5 Cirque de Chauzon 6 Balazuc 7 Lanas 8 Vogüé 9 Chabanne 10 Courpatas 11 Saint Michel de Boulogne 12 Chomerac 13 La Payre 14 Rompon 15 Top Secret 16 La Goule 17 La Dame du Lac 18 Les Combes 19 Suc des Coux 20 Les Chambons 21 Chamiers 22 Mas de l'Ayre 23 Tras les baumes 24 Signal de Coucoulude 25 Salavas 26 L'horloge 27 Vallée de l'Eyrieux

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.649095, 4.413819

access issues

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

inherited from France

ethic

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

inherited from France

1.1. Saint Sauveur de Cruzières 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.299514, 4.248807

description

Equipement sur broches bis 2 (déclarées non conformes selon tests ENSA en 2001 car résistance à l’arrachement indéterminé).

approach

Parking devant l’accès au camping de la Claysse. Longer le camping et la rive de la Claysse sur 300 mètres jusqu’à un pont enjambant le ruisseau et une route permettant d’accéder à sa rive opposée au niveau du camping. Atteindre la falaise par une sente ascendante à gauche dans la garrigue. 10 minutes du parking.

where to stay

Camping à 3 minutes de marche de la falaise.

1.2. Gorges du Chassezac 672 routes in Area

6 1 7 4 5 2 3

1 Endieu 2 Le Jardin d'Endieu 3 Mazet 4 Casteljau 5 Les Actinidias 6 Chaulet 7 Baume Escure

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 44.401756, 4.207233

access issues

The Chassezac Gorges have a sensitive ecosystem that is protected. In order to protect flora and fauna, there are sectors where climbing is not allowed at certain times. Each climber is responsible for ensuring that climbing on the rocks of the gorges remains permitted. Please respect these closing times without exception.

• Plan Escalade Chassezac Overview
• Plan Escalade Chassezac Details
• For recent informations and updates visit https://www.ct07ffme.fr

ethic

• Respect the closing times
• Do not leave rubbish lying around
• Take excrement with you
• Be quiet
• Take care of animals and plants
• Use your own material to lower off

1.2.1. Endieu 0 routes in Crag

1.2.2. Le Jardin d'Endieu 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.402113, 4.193162

access issues

Climbing allowed from 30 April to 1 November.

1.2.3. Mazet 181 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.399318, 4.196266

description

Mazet features Ardèche climbing at its finest: sunny limestone of excellent quality, short access, a river nearby and a great selection of beautiful and well-bolted routes. It is a very popular spot and due to the two campsites nearby there are always people on the rock. Unluckily, this has left a fair amount of polish on some of the, mostly easier, routes. Having this in mind, Mazet is still an excellent place to climb, very family friendly and well worth a visit.

• With kids: very suitable for crag-kids!

approach

From the Mazet's bridge, just walk down to the beach and follow the wall. Secor Jardin d'Endieu can also be accessed by descending from the holiday village on the plateau.

where to stay

The campsites Mazet Plage and Actinidas are just around the corner and in walking distance.

1.2.4. Casteljau 166 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.403666, 4.196704

description

Various nice boulder parcours can be found on the forested plateau over the Chassezac. The numbers of the problems are painted on the blocs (often faded), partly together with boundarys for allowed gripping. However, orientation and even just finding the parcours can be a challenge on its own.

A detailed topo can be found here: http://castelbloc.blogspot.com/p/topo.html

1.2.5. Les Actinidias 59 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.402824, 4.199201

description

• With kids: if you are staying at the campground Les Actinidias you can get to this crag in just a few minutes by foot. The base is flat with lots of sand. There is shade in the afternoon and thanks to the near-by river you can comfortably climb there even if it‘s a very hot day. Because of the water very close to the climbs you have to be careful when coming here with smaller kids. It is a perfect place to combine swimming with climbing.

approach

Parking at the campground Les Actinidias, in front of the reception, or at the parkingground where the crag Mazet is signed out. Go through the camping ground Les Actinidias and follow the river to the crag.

where to stay

The campground Les Actinidias is near to the crag. There is also the campground Mazet nearby.

1.2.6. Chaulet 188 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.407538, 4.210686

description

• With kids: You climb very close to the water which the kids like a lot but you have to be careful, especially with smaller children (risk of drowning).

approach

Du parking, 20m après le virage à angle droit faisant face au Chassezac, descendre un sentier peu marqué vers la rivière et la longer rive gauche.

1.2.7. Baume Escure 47 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.406770, 4.208406

description

A small crag followed by two caves.

approach

5 to 15 minutes walk, relatively flat, on a forest path, not far away from the river bank.

1.3. Gorges de l'Ardèche 168 routes in Area

3 1 2 4 10 8 11 7 5 6 9

1 Vallon-Pont-d'Arc 2 Ebbou 3 Le Grand Charmasson 4 Autridge 5 La Rouvière 6 Saint Marcel 7 Cayrebelou 8 Templiers 9 Ranc pointu 10 Les Abeillères 11 Richemale

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.352024, 4.482349

1.3.1. Vallon-Pont-d'Arc 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 44.381827, 4.416102

summary

Deep Water Soloing spot in the Ardeche, famous for the line "The King" liberated by Chris Sharma.

description

Topos and route descriptions provided by Antoine Aubert.

1.3.2. Ebbou 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.373403, 4.421477

1.3.3. Le Grand Charmasson 89 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.382072, 4.446160

1.3.4. Autridge 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.362487, 4.466620

1.3.5. La Rouvière 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.332677, 4.513985

1.3.6. Saint Marcel 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.325456, 4.543132

1.3.7. Cayrebelou 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.335218, 4.482515

1.3.8. Templiers 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.342304, 4.509013

1.3.9. Ranc pointu 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 44.322360, 4.548037

1.3.10. Les Abeillères 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.352196, 4.457199

1.3.11. Richemale 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.339383, 4.479016

1.4. Saint Montan - La Sainte Beaume 52 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.442825, 4.620423

summary

Nice rock with good routes (mostly for beginners). Style is foremost slab climbing, but with some very sculptured, sometimes vertical, passages in between.

description

Routes from 15 to 25 meters. Even the easy routes are nice. The crag is mostly used for beginners, sometimes also used as a training spot for caving. Very close protection with new pitons and chains.

approach

Use the designated parking place at the eastern end of the small village. Walk back down to the village center, cross the small river and follow the street to the western end of the village. Right behind l'Église San Samonta, turn to the right following signs to la Grotte de l'ermite. After some steep 30 meters the crag is to the right side (10-15 minutes from the parking).

ethic

As always, don't be to noisy, don't leave no trash at the rock.

1.4.1. Le Jardin 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.4.2. Grande Dalle Centrale 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.4.3. Grand Pilier 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.4.4. Grande Dalle de Gauche 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.4.5. Petite Dalle de Gauche 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.5. Cirque de Chauzon 315 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.478307, 4.342457

1.5.1. Left 100 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

1.5.2. Middle 125 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.3. Right 90 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

description

There is a great need in this area for rebolting now as the old steel rings are pretty much not worth trusting. Some routes have been rebolted with stainless steel U bolts. Recommendation** Buy the guide book and read the information in it. It could save your butt.

approach

Walk up the track from the car park until you reach the stairs on the left descending into the gorge. About half way day the trail forks. Take the right and head up to the first sector.

1.6. Balazuc 130 routes in Crag

2 1

1 Le Viel Audon 2 Les Barasses

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.507983, 4.371684

1.6.1. Le Viel Audon 59 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.507382, 4.363244

description

While there are new routes being put up and rebolting is in progress beware of the 1970's steel bolts, they are not safe and you should avoid them at all times. Buy the guide book and read it. Its in French but google translate will help you understand why you shouldn't climb on these bolts. While none have failed, don't become the first to find out about them not being good.

The site of the Viel Audon (and not Vieil Audon), pockets the hamlet farm being restored and is shaded in the afternoon from about 1:30pm. Parking is available in the parking lot below the village of Balazuc where you can access the crag within ten minutes by foot.

approach

Park below the village of Balazuc and walk down left and across the bridge spanning the Ardeche river. Turn left and continue to veer left onto the well trodden trail. The crag is above the village of Viel Audon. Note** Please be respectful of local residents and move discreetly through.

1.6.2. Les Barasses 71 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.512112, 4.368371

approach

From Balazuc bottom car park (located about 80 metres from the bridge crossing the Ardeche river) walk across the bridge and turn left heading towards the ancient tower on the buttress above you. Keeping right up the road. About 140 metres up the road there is a trail on the right that heads up to the main wall.

1.7. Lanas 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.523059, 4.391467

1.8. Vogüé 30 routes in Crag

2

2 Le Tunnel

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.549851, 4.409160

description

Short bouldery sports climbing on good rock (not great). Check anchors as they are a little old. Climbing is good and there are some nice fun routes to try.

approach

Driving from Aubenas....as you approach the outskirts of the village there is a small car park on th right hand side of the road. You can see the cliff line on your right. Park here and walk up and to the left trail. It takes you up to the old railway tunnel in the distance. There is a trail to the right about 250 metres along the main trail. Follow this up to the crag. First routes are on a small bulging buttress.

where to stay

Vogüé is 15 minutes from the village of Uzer and 20 minutes from Aubenas. There is plenty of accom in the area and the distances to the crags are short (Drive time maximum of 40 minutes)

1.8.1. La Roche 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

small limestone sector with moderates that a well bolted and a little polished. Its more a locals crag. It has a nice vista over the village of Vogüé.

1.8.2. Le Tunnel 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.549861, 4.409952

description

This secondary sector is located just around the corner from La Roche. It contains 10 routes ranging from 3b to 5c. Well bolted and fun for kids. No names are available as from what I understand none were given. Enjoyable for family days.

1.9. Chabanne 153 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.625524, 4.460280

summary

Site d'escalade formateur, idéalement praticable les après-midi au printemps/automne/hiver et le matin en été

approach

Depuis le parking prendre la piste qui descend légèrement, au bout de 50m dans le virage prendre le petit chemin qui nous amène au pied des voies

ethic

Pas de nom de voie mais des numéros

1.9.1. Primaire 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.9.2. Les travées 28 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.9.3. La conque 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.9.4. Que Dalle 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.9.5. Dalle Décollée 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.9.6. Dalle couchée 18 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.9.7. Le bouc 29 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.9.8. Horizon nouveau 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.10. Courpatas 63 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.675268, 4.477659

1.10.1. Donjon 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.10.2. Le Long 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.10.3. La proue 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.10.4. L'arbre mort 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.10.5. Le gourou 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10.6. Corridor sud 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.10.7. Lierre 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.11. Saint Michel de Boulogne 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.688329, 4.439663

1.12. Chomerac 76 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.709982, 4.655291

1.12.1. La Vialatte 0 routes in Sector

1.12.2. Les Carrieres 63 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.13. La Payre 99 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.731616, 4.735836

description

http://www.yadugaz07.com/escalade-le-pouzin-la-payre.php

1.13.1. L'exil 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

1.13.2. Demi siècle 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.13.3. Kiné 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.13.4. Le Zoo 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.13.5. Le perchoir 0 routes in Sector

1.13.6. Les trappeurs 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.13.7. Le jardin d'Eden 47 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.14. Rompon 162 routes in Crag

1 2 3 4 5 7

1 L'ours 2 La Grotte 3 La Chambre 4 Le Chat 5 Face Ouest 7 Monolithe

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.763491, 4.736496

1.14.1. L'ours 30 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.765505, 4.729707

description

First sector when you come from the parking

approach

You'd need about 20 minutes walk (relatively steep at some point) to reach this first sector

1.14.2. La Grotte 36 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.765398, 4.730227

1.14.3. La Chambre 30 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.765354, 4.730866

1.14.4. Le Chat 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.765299, 4.731597

1.14.5. Face Ouest 35 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.763484, 4.735897

1.14.6. Face Sud 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.14.7. Monolithe 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.762246, 4.741847

1.15. Top Secret 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.935808, 4.848430

1.16. La Goule 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.982074, 4.842162

1.17. La Dame du Lac 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.818823, 4.077256

1.18. Les Combes 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.791119, 4.087769

1.19. Suc des Coux 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.816946, 4.217657

summary

Site se trouvant à 1300m d'altitude, très agréable en été

1.19.1. Le paradis 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

1.19.2. Les grêlons 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.20. Les Chambons 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.623103, 4.048263

summary

Beautiful granite. Multipitch. Abseil access or walk.

description

Petite falaise surplombant le Canyon de la Borne. Bon secteur d'initiation pour les voies en plusieurs longueurs.

Little cliff above Canyon de la Borne. Ideal for beginning multipitch climb.

access issues

Accès en rappel or par sentier forestier.

Abseil access or walk.

approach

D19 de la Croix de Bauzon. D24 few kms after the col. Route de Chazalette (GR72) 1km Park on the obvious spot in the turn. Walk to the crag.

1.21. Chamiers 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.525392, 3.981085

1.21.1. Le noyer 0 routes in Sector

1.21.2. L'éboulis 0 routes in Sector

1.21.3. Le châtaignier 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.21.4. Les chèvres à Raoul 0 routes in Sector

1.21.5. La dalle inclinée 0 routes in Sector

1.21.6. Le nez 0 routes in Sector

1.22. Mas de l'Ayre 21 routes in Crag

3

3 Père Noël

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.436860, 3.996455

1.22.1. Nectar de grès 0 routes in Sector

1.22.2. Ruisseau 0 routes in Sector

1.22.3. Père Noël 21 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.436714, 3.995995

1.22.4. Snow park 0 routes in Sector

1.22.5. Robinson 0 routes in Sector

1.22.6. Bambou 0 routes in Sector

1.23. Tras les baumes 22 routes in Crag

1 2

1 Dalles 2 La Grotte

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.620696, 4.224635

summary

Very good crag with a good beginner sector, extremely well bolted. The beginner area is ideal for learning multipitching.

The cave area has some gem climbs between 6c+ and 7c.

1.23.1. Dalles 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.620923, 4.224281

description

Beginner area with multipitch climbs. 50-60m tall from 3c to 5c. Excellent bolting.

descent notes

Lower off.

1.23.2. La Grotte 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.620655, 4.224575

description

Beautiful sector. Nice 6c+ and 7th grade climbs. Edges, sloppers and crimps. 20m climbs

descent notes

Lower off.

1.24. Signal de Coucoulude 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.609072, 4.097726

summary

Nice place to climb. Amazing view. Can be chilly (1370m).

description

The granite is quite rounded, full of lychen but still very good to climb. Balancy moves, lots of sloppers or tiny crimps.

Lots of climb could be trad climbed instead of using the bolts.

approach

Park at Col de Meyrand and walk to the ONF gate via the gravel road going NE from the carpark.

1.24.1. Secteur Nord-ouest 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.24.2. Secteur Est 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

8 routes between 3a and 5a

1.24.3. Secteur Sud 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.25. Salavas 158 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.394520, 4.374400

1.25.1. Font Garnide 106 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.394415, 4.366834

summary

De Vallon-Pont-d’Arc, prendre la D579 vers Salavas et la quitter 500m après le pont sur l’Ardèche (suivre Font Garnide à droite). Parking de 50 places après 1,5 km.

description

Très intéressante falaise de calcaire, en particulier en été (à l’ombre jusqu’à 15 heures), avec une centaine de voies de 20 à 40 mètres en 1 ou 2 longueurs avec rééquipement récent. Peu de longueurs inférieures au 5ème degré.

access issues

Un arrêté municipal interdit la circulation motorisée sur le chemin forestier en contrebas de la falaise en période sèche (danger d’incendie - situation août 2022).

approach

Prendre le large chemin forestier qui surplombe le parking et le quitter après 500m par un bon sentier en ascendance sur la gauche. Quitter ce sentier après 250m par une raide sente secondaire à gauche montant droit dans la pente pour le secteur 2 (face à Imagine action) ou poursuivre et déboucher sur une barre déversante pour le secteur 4, à une dizaine de mètres à droite de Miam Miam Zoulou. 15 minutes du parking.

1.25.2. Jeau 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.392663, 4.386406

1.25.3. Les Branches 51 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.383376, 4.407996

1.26. L'horloge 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.740640, 4.244932

summary

Site d'escalade au cœur du village de Burzet,idéal pour débuter. Possibilité de grimper en nocturne.

description

Prévoir 50m de corde

approach

Parking sur la "Place du Temple",puis prendre la rue (à gauche de la place)qui monte en direction de l'horloge

1.27. Vallée de l'Eyrieux 87 routes in Crag

3 4 2 1

1 Dunière-sur-Eyrieux 2 Les Cabannes 3 Beauvène 4 Mariac

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.874381, 4.537180

1.27.1. Dunière-sur-Eyrieux 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.829936, 4.652321

1.27.2. Les Cabannes 49 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.839159, 4.579427

1.27.3. Beauvène 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.878060, 4.529413

1.27.4. Mariac 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.877105, 4.368722