Val Chiavenna Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Val Chiavenna 550 routes in Region

1 2 18 6 7 16 4 17 5 14 10 9 11 12 15

1 Prestone 2 Cimaganda 4 Poiatengo 5 Rock Stadium 6 Gallivaggio 7 Parete del Castagneto 9 Tanno 10 Valcondria 11 Crazy Crack 12 Sasso Bianco 14 Uschione 15 San Cassiano 16 Cranna 17 Falesia Ciclabile 18 Placce di Cimaganda

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.315855, 9.389980

summary

Topo: http://www.campingacquafraggia.com/climbindex_en.htm

where to stay

Camping Acquafraggia di Guido Lisignoli

1.1. Prestone 8 routes in Field

1 2

1 Blocco 7 2 Blocco 8

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.385969, 9.349880

1.1.1. Blocco 7 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.387261, 9.349789

1.1.2. Blocco 8 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.387203, 9.349824

1.2. Cimaganda 223 routes in Crag

1 2 3

1 Fiume 2 Cantina 3 Pratone

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.370506, 9.359733

1.2.1. Fiume 21 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.371421, 9.358233

1.2.2. Cantina 52 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.371378, 9.357500

1.2.3. Pratone 115 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.370077, 9.357750

1.2.4. Enel 35 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.2.5. Blocfest 0 routes in Sector

1.3. Dalò 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.3.1. Sasso del Tornante 0 routes in Sector

1.3.2. Dado di Dalò 0 routes in Sector

1.3.3. Sench di Dalò 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.4. Poiatengo 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.325639, 9.412580

1.5. Rock Stadium 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.322693, 9.411615

summary

Impressive wall, Visible from Chiavenna

1.6. Gallivaggio 27 routes in Crag

1 2 3

1 Main Sector 2 Moulinette Sector 3 Palm Beach

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.366031, 9.366116

1.6.1. Main Sector 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.366433, 9.366107

1.6.2. Moulinette Sector 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.365269, 9.366654

1.6.3. Palm Beach 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.365113, 9.365336

1.7. Parete del Castagneto 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.358975, 9.371521

1.8. Uschione 0 routes in Crag

1.9. Tanno 37 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.313600, 9.403342

description

Good choice of interesting routes. The base is in the woods - cool temperatures.

1.10. Valcondria 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.314034, 9.405350

1.11. Crazy Crack 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.312407, 9.406105

description

Routes are from right to left

1.12. Sasso Bianco 47 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.307412, 9.404760

summary

Granite slabs with beautiful view into the valley

description

Classic crag in the valley with mainly slabs on south-exposed granite. Single to dual-pitch routes with good to excellent protection. Topo under http://www.campingacquafraggia.com/sassobianco_en.html

approach

From Chiavenna, go south to Prata Camportaccio. There, turn left, cross the railway and navigate uphill through small streets towards the church. Continue uphill towards Lottano for ~ 1 km (don't cross the stream).You will pass directly below the crag and will see the first bolts from the car. Small parking pullout.

1.12.1. Sasso del Dormiglione 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

Left (uphill) small buttress directly next to road.

1.12.2. Settore Centrale 32 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

Main sector

1.12.3. Sasso Marrone 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

Right (downhill) small buttress directly next to road.

1.13. Contrafforte di Pizzo 0 routes in Crag

1.14. Uschione 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.315790, 9.417320

1.14.1. Holympo 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

1.14.2. Guru del Bosco 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.14.3. Il Tempio 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.14.4. Uskionkids 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.14.5. Fate Nere 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.14.6. Pinguino 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.15. San Cassiano 25 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.281301, 9.404657

1.15.1. 1 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.15.2. 2 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.15.3. 3 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.15.4. 4 13 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.15.5. 5 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

1.16. Cranna 59 routes in Crag

2 4 3 1

1 Lower Sector 2 Main Sector 3 Edera Sector 4 Orinari Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.333122, 9.421654

1.16.1. Lower Sector 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.333120, 9.421676

summary

Climbing is possible on rainy days

description

Small crag right next to the village. The routes are quite close together. Names and grades at the start.

• Sun: The crag is in the full sun for the whole day with absolutely no shade at the base.
• With kids: The base of the wall is completely flat with much space to play, also the approach is short and comfortable. So the crag is perfect for small kids.

access issues

Just follow the path to the north-east from the parking space (46.3326, 9.4210). You will reach the crag in less than 1 minute.

1.16.2. Main Sector 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.333153, 9.421646

1.16.3. Edera Sector 11 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.333141, 9.421569

1.16.4. Orinari Sector 16 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.333152, 9.421709

1.17. Falesia Ciclabile 24 routes in Crag

1 2

1 East 2 West

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.324987, 9.428692

1.17.1. East 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.324978, 9.428885

description

Routes from "Nulla è scontato" to "Moscardino" are very dirty and grassy (as in 2020)

1.17.2. West 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.324977, 9.428409

1.18. Placce di Cimaganda 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.369779, 9.365310