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Routes in Parete di San Paolo for selected grade

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Showing all 11 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Sud
{UIAA} 6- Via Linda
1 5 20m
2 5 30m
3 2 10m
4 6- 30m

Bolts and rock tunnels, some frineds and slings are recommended two sequences with VI option to add another pitch with two versions (right: nice groove, left: hard and very alpine bolted groove, but nice climb! Mind the rope drag, use super long slings) http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/linda.htm

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-linda-arco/

FA: Franz und Martin Heiß, Heinz Grill, Jänner, Dario Cabas & Masera, Jan 2016

Trad 90m, 4
{UIAA} 5+ Via Sabina
1 3+
2 4
3 4
4 4
5 4
6 5+

A few pitons and some rope tied through rock tunnels. Each belay has 1 bolt + a tree or rock tunnel. No trad gear needed except extra slings, but a few medium/large nuts would reduce the often long run-outs.

FA: D. Cabas, P. Masera & G. Gerola, 2012

Trad 170m, 6
{UIAA} 6- Via Sabina Direkt
1 3+
2 4
3 6-
4 4
5 4
6 5+

This variation goes direct through roof/corner system on P3 (protected by new-ish looking piton).

A few pitons and some rope tied through rock tunnels. Each belay has 1 bolt + a tree or rock tunnel. No trad gear needed except extra slings, but a few medium/large nuts would reduce the often long run-outs.

To find the start: Park at the Pizzeria Lanterna (and grab a beer there after) and head S on the road ~150 m until you see a path. Then head up and to the left until you hit the wall, then head left. The route is after Caldo Inverno and La Cengia Rossa and the scrambly start is marked in red and black paint.

Trad 170m, 6
{UIAA} 5+ Via Calliope
1 4 20m
2 5+ 40m
3 5+ 30m
4 4+ 30m
5 5+ 20m
6 4+ 50m

a mix of bolts and rock tunnels and a few pegs for protection at moderate distances. bring only quickdraws. the last long pitch can be split by building an anchor at a solid tree in case you don't want to deal with too much rope drag.

Sport 190m, 6
Nord
{UIAA} 6- Nuova Via
1 6- 30m
2 4 48m
3 5+ 30m
4 5+ 15m
5 6- 35m

This is a newer variant of Via Argo. It climbs cleaner and with less vegetation.

Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill & Franz Heiss, 2014

Sport 160m, 5
{UIAA} 5+ Argo
1 4 30m
2 4 50m
3 5+ 35m
4 5+ 15m
5 4 25m
6 5 30m

Set: Dario Cabas & Pierangelo Masera, 2010

Sport 190m, 6
{UIAA} 6- Via Aganippe
1 5+ 20m
2 6- 35m
3 5+ 40m
4 5 28m
5 6- 30m

Set: H. Grill, F. Heiss & F. Kluckner, 2007

Sport 150m, 5
{UIAA} 5+ Via Nereidi
1 4+ 30m
2 5 35m
3 5+ 30m
4 4+ 30m

Set: H. Grill, F. Heiss & F. Kluckner, 2007

Sport 130m, 4
{UIAA} 6- Via Due Piccoli Pilastri
1 5
2 5+
3 4-
4 6-
5 6-

Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill & Martin Mocek, 2013

Sport 150m, 5
{UIAA} 5+ Vie Siuxsie
1 4 27m
2 5+ 32m
3 5 35m

FA: Dario Cabas & Pierangelo Masera, 2014

Trad 94m, 4
{UIAA} 5+ Pungitopo
1 4 20m
2 5+ 35m
3 4 30m

FA: D. Cabas & P. Masera, 2014

Trad 85m, 4

Showing all 11 routes.

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