A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
MaM Philip Luca Lucas C Peterarwin Justin Wimmer Tirso Oli Danny van Bruggen Peter Betz
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Nuorese
1420 in Area
-
1.1.
Dorgali 188 in Crag
-
1.1.1.
Surtana 41 in Crag
- 1.1.1.1. North Face 0 in Crag
-
1.1.1.2.
South Face 41 in Crag
- 1.1.1.2.1. IV Pillar 9 in Area
- 1.1.1.2.2. V Pillar 3 in Sector
- 1.1.1.2.3. VI Pillar 2 in Sector
- 1.1.1.2.4. VII Pillar 8 in Sector
- 1.1.1.2.5. VIII Pillar 3 in Sector
- 1.1.1.2.6. IX Piliar 3 in Sector
- 1.1.1.2.7. X Piliar 3 in Area
- 1.1.1.2.8. XII Piliar 4 in Sector
- 1.1.1.2.9. XIII Piliar 5 in Sector
- 1.1.2. Monte Coazza 20 in Area
- 1.1.3. Monte Oddeu 30 in Cliff
- 1.1.4. Regno dei Cieli 0 in Crag
- 1.1.5. S'atta Ruja / Dorgali 97 in Crag
-
1.1.1.
Surtana 41 in Crag
-
1.2.
Cala Gonone 982 in Crag
- 1.2.1. Noce Secca 22 in Crag
- 1.2.2. Falesia Scheel 7 in Crag
-
1.2.3.
I Tornanti 36 in Crag
- 1.2.3.1. Osterliase 8 in Sector
- 1.2.3.2. Sunny boy 9 in Sector
- 1.2.3.3. Siddartha / Gommina 9 in Sector
- 1.2.3.4. Duracell 6 in Sector
- 1.2.3.5. Pelle d'oca 4 in Sector
-
1.2.4.
Monte Bonacoa 35 in Crag
- 1.2.4.1. Versante nord-ovest 25 in Sector
- 1.2.4.2. Versante sud-est 10 in Sector
- 1.2.5. Budino 21 in Crag
-
1.2.6.
La Poltrona 72 in Crag
- 1.2.6.1. Basso (a destra) / Lower sector 13 in Sector
- 1.2.6.2. Main sector 42 in Sector
- 1.2.6.3. Poltrona Alta 17 in Crag
- 1.2.7. Monte Irveri 66 in Crag
- 1.2.8. L'Alveare 31 in Crag
-
1.2.9.
Margheddie 113 in Crag
- 1.2.9.1. Non Stop 11 in Sector
- 1.2.9.2. Nomadi / Top sector 15 in Sector
- 1.2.9.3. Ninna nanna / Bottom Sector 21 in Sector
- 1.2.9.4. Nuovo 0 in Sector
- 1.2.9.5. Sardi di Cuore 20 in Sector
- 1.2.9.6. Turisti per Caso 8 in Sector
- 1.2.9.7. Torre di Mezzo 10 in Sector
- 1.2.9.8. El chorro 18 in Sector
- 1.2.9.9. S´Arcu ´e sa Turre 10 in Sector
-
1.2.10.
Biddiriscottai 58 in Crag
- 1.2.10.1. First Grotto 31 in Sector
- 1.2.10.2. Right of First Grotto 27 in Sector
- 1.2.11. Millennium 32 in Crag
- 1.2.12. Millennium multipitch 4 in Crag
- 1.2.13. Grotta dei Colombi 5 in Crag
-
1.2.14.
Budinetto / Placche di Serendippo 31 in Crag
- 1.2.14.1. Le vie della falesia principlae 29 in Sector
- 1.2.14.2. A destra dello spigolo 2 in Sector
- 1.2.15. Placche Flintstones 24 in Crag
- 1.2.16. Ziu Martine 7 in Crag
-
1.2.17.
Cala Fuili 247 in Crag
- 1.2.17.1. Puschtra / Corvo Rosso 11 in Crag
- 1.2.17.2. Spiaggia Est 14 in Crag
- 1.2.17.3. Ferry 18 in Sector
- 1.2.17.4. Amelia / Spiaggia Ovest 21 in Sector
- 1.2.17.5. Le Petit Bateau 5 in Crag
- 1.2.17.6. Fuili-Cannonau 15 in Area
- 1.2.17.7. Strapiombi / Scalette 15 in Sector
- 1.2.17.8. Raoni 14 in Sector
- 1.2.17.9. Placca di fronte allo sperone 5 in Area
-
1.2.17.10.
Codula Fuili 115 in Crag
- 1.2.17.10.1. Tritoni / Grotta dei Tritoni 7 in Crag
- 1.2.17.10.2. Muro dell'umiltà & Imposta 18 in Sector
- 1.2.17.10.3. Pederiva 19 in Crag
- 1.2.17.10.4. Thailandia & Tribuna 42 in Sector
- 1.2.17.10.5. Zedda Piras 11 in Sector
- 1.2.17.10.6. Teatro 5 in Sector
- 1.2.17.10.7. La Vigianite / Grotta Vigiani 6 in Crag
- 1.2.17.10.8. Grotta dei Bimbi 7 in Crag
- 1.2.17.11. Paretine del Cannonau 13 in Crag
- 1.2.17.12. Senza Nome 1 in Sector
- 1.2.18. Aguaplano 23 in Crag
- 1.2.19. L'ottavo Nano / Ponte Fuili 14 in Crag
- 1.2.20. Cuccuru 'e Su Corvu 9 in Crag
- 1.2.21. Buchi Arta 52 in Crag
-
1.2.22.
Cala Luna 56 in Crag
- 1.2.22.1. Scoglio di Luna 18 in Crag
- 1.2.22.2. Grottoni 38 in Sector
- 1.2.23. Cala Cartoe 17 in Crag
-
1.3.
Oliena 236 in Crag
-
1.3.1.
Lanaitto / Valle di Lanaitto 149 in Crag
- 1.3.1.1. Pianeta Lanaitto 28 in Sector
- 1.3.1.2. Musicland 49 in Sector
- 1.3.1.3. Bella Vista 7 in Sector
- 1.3.1.4. Wonderland 6 in Sector
- 1.3.1.5. Su Gurruthone 54 in Sector
- 1.3.1.6. Badde Pèntumas 4 in Cliff
-
1.3.2.
Monte Maccione 87 in Crag
- 1.3.2.1. Magico Spettacolo 24 in Crag
- 1.3.2.2. Central Wall / Principale 31 in Crag
- 1.3.2.3. Australia 32 in Crag
- 1.3.2.4. Placca rossa 0 in Crag
-
1.3.1.
Lanaitto / Valle di Lanaitto 149 in Crag
- 1.4. Punta Cucuttos 10 in Crag
- 1.5. Gola di Gorroppu 2 in Crag
- 1.6. SA FORADA ‘E SA IDA 2 in Cliff
-
1.1.
Dorgali 188 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Nuorese 1,420 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.374969, 9.318794
1.1. Dorgali 188 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.288138, 9.565426
1.1.1. Surtana 41 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 40.233709, 9.504967
1.1.1.1. North Face 0 routes in Crag
1.1.1.2. South Face 41 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 40.234161, 9.502127
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Senza nome | 6a+ | 40m |
1.1.1.2.1. IV Pillar 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
1.1.1.2.2. V Pillar 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
1.1.1.2.3. VI Pillar 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
1.1.1.2.4. VII Pillar 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 40.234011, 9.502815
description
VII. Pfeiler
1.1.1.2.5. VIII Pillar 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 40.234874, 9.501637
description
VIII Pfeiler
descent notes
Abseilen über Weg Sempre Onestu
1.1.1.2.6. IX Piliar 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.1.1.2.7. X Piliar 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.1.1.2.8. XII Piliar 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.1.1.2.9. XIII Piliar 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
1.1.2. Monte Coazza 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.296465, 9.552658
description
Felsriegel der aus Richtung Dorgali zum Lago del Cedrino
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 01 | |||||
2 | 02 | |||||
3 | 03 | |||||
4 | 04 | |||||
5 | 05 | |||||
6 | 06 | |||||
7 | Luca`s story | |||||
8 | La Luisr | |||||
9 | Santa Pazienza | |||||
10 | la Cri | |||||
11 | 11 | |||||
12 | 12 | |||||
13 | 13 | |||||
14 | Alleluta | |||||
15 | 15 | |||||
16 | la Commentivihr | |||||
17 | Rocco Pasqurle | |||||
18 | Filotto | |||||
19 | Westgrat | |||||
20 | Abseiling über den Westgrat |
1.1.3. Monte Oddeu 30 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 40.226394, 9.511509
description
approach
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | La Coda dell'Angelo | 6a+ | 200m | |||
2 | La Via d'en Pep | 6b+ | 300m | |||
3 |
Buena Vista Social Club
FA: L. Nadali & L. Ceron, 1999 | 7a+ | ||||
4 |
Margaritès
FA: A. Calvo & L. Nadali, 1997 | 7a+ | 220m | |||
5 |
Sale Grössö
FA: A. Calvo & L. Nadali, 1997 | 6c+ | 260m | |||
6 |
Nirvana
FA: E. Lecis | 7b | 300m | |||
7 |
Tre Tazze Di Tè
FA: C. Pibiri & F. Erriu, 2011 | 6b | 210m | |||
8 |
★ La Nostra Svizzera
FA: C. Marchi, M. Oviglia & E. Pinotti, 2012 | 6c | 240m | |||
9 |
A Chent’annos
FA: R. Vigliani & L. Siliani, 2015 | 7a | 200m | |||
10 |
La Mia Africa
FA: C. Marchi & M. Oviglia, 1994 | 6c | 200m | |||
11 |
Appointment With The Beer
FA: J. Bassier & M. Schaefer, 2012 | 6c+ | 200m | |||
12 |
Attenti A Quei Due
FA: M. Ogliengo & B. Villa, 2014 | 7a | 200m | |||
13 |
Corri Coniglio Corri
FA: M. Ogliengo & B. Villa, 2015 | 6c+ A0 | 210m | |||
14 |
Madame Bovary
FA: E. Lecis, 1995 | 7a | 200m | |||
15 |
★★★ Alfredo Alfredo
FA: C. Pibiri & F. Erriu, 2012 | 7a | 200m | |||
16 |
Abbas Abbadas
FA: C. Conca, 2000 | 6b+ | 200m | |||
17 |
Aurum Tellus
FA: C. Conca & N. Putzu, 2002 | 6b+ | 80m | |||
18 |
Via Dei Finanzieri
FA: E. Beber & A. Partel, 1973 | 6b+ | 260m | |||
19 |
Vivere Di Sogni
FA: C. Marchi, M. Oviglia & M. Zurru, 1994 | 6c+ | 160m | |||
20 |
★★ East Asia
FA: M. Oviglia & S. Sarti, 1999 | 6c | 170m, 6 | |||
21 | Feroce Umbra | 6b+ | 230m | |||
22 |
★★★ L'imbrago Bello Stretto
Accesso: Oltrepassato il ponte sul Rio Flumineddu per chi lascia l’autovettura al parcheggio/bar “Sa Barva”, percorrere la strada sterrata verso destra e alla fine della recinzione posta alla sinistra ed in corrispondenza di uno slargo, prendere la traccia verso sinistra e seguire la recinzione fin sotto la parete, oltrepassarla e proseguire per altri cento metri c.a. fino alla base della via , scritta incisa sulla parete ( 20 min.) Discesa: dalla sosta finalesituata oltre il bordo della parete,si seguono degli ometti in pietra che per salti di roccia e placconate portano al sentiero di Scala Surtana e da qui alla partenza (45 min.) FA: M. Marceddu & D. Turco, 2015 | 6b | 190m, 8 | |||
23 |
Bo Tèp
FA: C. Zampati, N. Tiraboschi, L Ceron & L. Ceron, 1998 | 6c+ | 200m | |||
24 |
Por El Pueblo Oprimido
FA: P. Pezzolato & S. Gojak, 1998 | 6c | 240m | |||
25 |
Prego Porcini
FA: F. Figueroa & R. Thivel, 1998 | 6a+ | 230m | |||
26 |
Medio Verme
FA: G. Cicconi, S. Finocchi, M. Forcatura & M. Tacchi, 1981 | 6a | 310m | |||
27 |
★★ Bang Boom Bang
FA: M. Schaefer, 2013 | 6b | 200m, 5 | |||
28 |
Compagni Di Viaggio
Die Haken sind alle io. Die Standplätze sind ausreichend. Leichte Korrosionsspuren sind normal und nicht Besorgnis erregend. Die fixen Schlingen dagegen verdienen eine gesunde Skepsis. Mit einigen Keilen und Schlingen kann die Absicherung verbessert werden. Teilweise alte Haken, auch Stände korrodiert, mit Friends verstärken. FA: F. Cappa, E. Pinotti & P. Romanini | 6a+ | 210m, 7 | |||
29 |
Codina Di Topo
FA: C. Pibiri & F. Erriu, 2008 | 6a | 160m | |||
30 |
Via Quindicesima Legione / Spigolo Nord
FA: C. Andreatta, E. Beber & G. Cagnati, 1973 | 4 | 180m |
1.1.4. Regno dei Cieli 0 routes in Crag
1.1.5. S'atta Ruja 97 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.287473, 9.594536
summary
Good grey and red limestone, very convenient approach
description
Crag which dominates the town Dorgali - only five minutes from car park near the main ring road
approach
Park place near small pine wood with benches - on the east direction along the main ring road
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Bu Ananas | 5a | 7m | |||||
2 | ★ Reneè | 6a | 7m | |||||
3 | ★★ Jack Pompadur | 6b+ | 7m | |||||
4 | ★★ Greystoke | 6c+ | 7m | |||||
5 | ★★ Buon Anno Tristezza | 6c+ | 7m | |||||
6 | ★★ Bibì | 6a+ | 7m | |||||
7 | ★★ Sa Dirgana | 6c | 10m | |||||
8 | ★★ Radio Vardetta | 6c+ | 10m | |||||
9 | ★★ Dejan | 6c | 10m | |||||
10 | ★★ La Sindrome di Stendhal | 6c+ | 10m | |||||
11 | ★★★ Desideria | 6b | 10m | |||||
12 | Balentia | 6b+ | 10m | |||||
13 | Maria Francesca | 6a | 10m | |||||
14 | Motosega | 6a | 10m | |||||
15 | Irmisidu | 6a+ | 10m | |||||
16 | ★★ Scivola Bella | 6b+ | 8m | |||||
17 |
★ SN
Anchor is hanging from the wire mesh on top, last hold for clipping is not very comfortable for a 5c. Overall slightly harder than 5c. | 5c | 12m, 4 | |||||
18 | SN II | 6a | 12m | |||||
19 | SN III | 6a+ | 14m | |||||
20 | SN IV | 6c | 15m | |||||
21 | ★★ Il Grillo Parlante | 7b | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
22 | ★ S'Ira e Deu | 7a | 20m | |||||
23 | ★★ La Nostra Vita | 7b | 20m | |||||
24 | ★★ Paranoia | 6c+ | 15m | |||||
25 | ★★ Bae e Iscoriati | 8a | 15m | |||||
26 | ★★ Granghena | 6b+ | 17m | |||||
27 | ★★ Sconvolt | 6b+ | 17m | |||||
28 | ★★ Grazianeddu | 5c | 17m, 8 | |||||
29 | ★ Cazzu Pero | 5c | ||||||
30 | ★ Bovoreddu | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
31 | ★★ Zio Billy | 5c | 20m | |||||
32 | ★★ Bar Luciano | 6a | 20m | |||||
33 | ★ Raffaella | 5c | 20m | |||||
34 | ★★ Boe Juke | 6b | 20m | |||||
35 | ★ Ponente | 6a | 25m | |||||
36 | ★ Fuimus | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
37 | ★ Istringhe a culu | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
38 | ★★★ Est unu Francassu | 6b | 30m | |||||
39 | ★★ Vamos a Bailar | 6a | 25m | |||||
40 | ★★ Baila Guapa Loca | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
41 | ★★ Persone Curiose | 6b | 27m | |||||
42 | ★★ L'Ombra delle Fanciulle | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
43 |
★★★ Sine Ulla Spes
Warning Flora and Fauna: Falcon Nest | 6c | 30m, 9 | |||||
44 | ★★ Il Regno della Miseria | 6a | 25m | |||||
45 | ★★ Clementina | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
46 | ★ Ricetta della Felicita' 1 | 5c | 15m | |||||
47 | ★★★ Ricetta della Felicita' 2 | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
48 |
★★ The Luisa
For orientation and to find the other routes, this is the exact GPS location of 'The Luisa': | 6a+ | 30m | |||||
49 | ★★ Euforbia | 6b+ | 30m | |||||
50 | ★★ Dottor Sacu | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
51 | ★★ Non Fachede a Zirare sas Palasas | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
52 | ★★ Joker | 6b | 25m | |||||
53 | ★★★ Corason Espinado | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
54 | ★★ U Animale | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
55 | ★ Forse Hotel | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
56 | ★★★ Nuovi Equilibri | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
57 | ★★★ No Quiero Mutanda | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
58 | ★★ Apoteke | 6a | 20m | |||||
59 | ★★★ Rita Lavora | 6b | 20m | |||||
60 | ★★★ Dodoi | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
61 | ★★★ Bastardo Dentro | 6c | 20m | |||||
62 | ★ Ester | 6c | 15m | |||||
63 |
★★ Damia
Vertical Wall on the right from Ester. A bit chaussy rock with good pockets. | 7a | 20m | |||||
64 | ★★ Cris Joan | 6a+ | 15m | |||||
65 | ★★★ Toscanità | 7b | 25m | |||||
66 | ★★★ Older | 7b+ | 25m | |||||
67 | ★★★ Overland 1 | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
68 | ★★ Overland 2 | 7a+ | 15m | |||||
69 | ★★★ L' Operaio | 6c | 10m | |||||
70 | ★★ Aspettando il Sole | 6b | 20m | |||||
71 | ★★ Is Clonis | 6b | 20m | |||||
72 | ★★ Umbras | 6b | 30m | |||||
73 | ★★ Su fratacasu | 6c | 30m | |||||
74 | ★★ Ultimo raggio di sole | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
75 | A modo mio | 6a+/b | 30m | |||||
76 | Ciao 2004 | 6a | 35m | |||||
77 | Mandronia | 6a | 30m | |||||
78 | ★★ L´imballatore di nuvole | 5c | 30m | |||||
79 | ★★ Neffa | 6b+ | 30m | |||||
80 | ★★ Il volo / Volo Planato | 7a | 35m, 2 | |||||
81 | ★★ Ikebana | 6b+ | 35m | |||||
82 | ★ Est unu Casinu | 6c+ | 50m | |||||
83 | ★★★ Lene Marlin | 6b+ | 50m | |||||
84 | ★★ Po Meredeu s'Iada | 6c | 15m | |||||
85 | ★ Classica | 5a | 35m | |||||
86 | ★ Anche le Galline Volano | 5c | 20m | |||||
87 | ★★★ Violet Man | 6c | 25m | |||||
88 | ★★ Il Torinese | 7b | 20m | |||||
89 | Milingo | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
90 | Io pattino history | 6b+ | 30m | |||||
91 | Morbido | 6c | 20m | |||||
92 | Phantom | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
93 | Jennifer Paige | 7a | 20m | |||||
94 | ★★ Il Crucco | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
95 | Smoke on the water | 7b | 30m | |||||
96 | Blak sabbat | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
97 | Starway to heaven | 7a+ | 30m |
1.2. Cala Gonone 982 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.268597, 9.622805
description
Check out for better topos https://climbingitaly.com/area/cala-gonone/?doing_wp_cron=1695832172.2462921142578125000000
1.2.1. Noce Secca 22 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.254387, 9.578055
description
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Nana nana bele ciucio | 6b | 30m | |||
2 | ★ Nero pioggia | 6b | 30m | |||
3 | Sardinia blues | 6b | 30m | |||
4 | ★★★ Salva il neurone | 6b | 30m | |||
5 | Papa' mi vien da gomitare | 7a+ | 20m | |||
6 | Conigli coraggiosi | 7b+ | 20m | |||
7 | Spellati il petto | 7a | 20m | |||
8 | Non spellarti le ginocchia | 6b+ | 20m | |||
9 | Biancosarti | 7a | 20m | |||
10 | Speedy pizza | 6c+ | 20m | |||
11 | No beh, forse si... | 7a+ | 20m | |||
12 | Vuoto a vincere | 8a | 20m | |||
13 | I know my chicken | 7a+ | 30m | |||
14 | Pampero | 7b+/c | 30m | |||
15 | La noce secca | 6c | 35m | |||
16 | Deep water | 8a | 35m | |||
17 | Spifferaio magico | 7c+ | 25m | |||
18 | Buena vista climbing club | 8a+ | 25m | |||
19 | Vite da fuco | 8a | 25m | |||
20 | Da capo | 8b | 25m | |||
21 | SS 125 | 25m | ||||
22 | Res-tonica | 7c | 30m |
1.2.2. Falesia Scheel 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.276164, 9.594833
description
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sale la nebbia | 6c+ | 25m | |||
2 | It`s time for lunch | 6b | 25m | |||
3 | bamba in Tijunana | 6c+ | 20m | |||
4 | (unnamed) | 6b | 20m | |||
5 | Bi-gay | 6c | 20m | |||
6 | U carcamannu | 6b+ | 30m | |||
7 | tin tin | 7b+ | 15m |
1.2.3. I Tornanti 36 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.269737, 9.605361
description
1.2.3.1. Osterliase 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Linus | 6a+ | 8m | |||
2 | Osterliase | 6c | 8m | |||
3 | Plan boy | 6b+ | 7m | |||
4 | Non sono io | 6a+ | 7m | |||
5 | Pallopoli | 5c | 7m | |||
6 | Antartica | 6a+ | 7m | |||
7 | Karin | 6a | 7m | |||
8 |
Senza nome
Ultima via alla dx di Karin, top completamente marcio, da sostituire | 6b+ | 7m, 5 |
1.2.3.2. Sunny boy 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Petit moulin rouge | 6a | 10m | |||
2 | ★★ Zero coccole per enzo | 6b | 10m | |||
3 | ★ Sunny boy | 7a+ | 10m | |||
4 | La legge del padrone | 7a | 10m | |||
5 | ★★ Sunnygirl | 6c+ | 10m | |||
6 | Conche ossu | 6a+ | 10m | |||
7 | XY | 6a+ | 10m | |||
8 | 8.30 | 7b+ | 7m | |||
9 | Maccina ribelle | 7a | 7m |
1.2.3.3. Siddartha 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Musica | 6a+ | 12m | |||
2 | No name3 | 6b | 15m | |||
3 | No name2 | 7a | 15m | |||
4 | Eiah | 7a | 20m | |||
5 | Siddaharta | 6b+ | 15m | |||
6 | No name | 6a | 12m | |||
7 | Gommina | 6a+ | 12m | |||
8 | Reverse | 6b | 10m | |||
9 | Marco's horror | 6b | 10m |
1.2.3.4. Duracell 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Biccara | 6b | 10m | |||
2 | Ghost | 6c+ | 10m | |||
3 | Pier ne se va | 7a+ | 10m | |||
4 | Duracell | 7b | 10m | |||
5 | Grizzly | 7a+ | 10m | |||
6 | Relax | 6b+ | 10m |
1.2.3.5. Pelle d'oca 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pigara tottu | 6c+ | 15m | |||
2 | Pelle d'oca | 6c+ | 15m | |||
3 | Ida non è venuta | 6a | 10m | |||
4 | no name . | 6b+ | 10m |
1.2.4. Monte Bonacoa 35 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.266422, 9.603404
description
1.2.4.1. Versante nord-ovest 25 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.266035, 9.602182
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Il giullare | 6c | 30m | |||
2 | Mago Merlino | 6b+ | 30m | |||
3 | Begin | 6a+ | 25m | |||
4 | Stop birra | 6a | 24m | |||
5 | Ajú | 6a+ | 30m | |||
6 | Trua a l'erba | 6a+ | 30m | |||
7 | ★★ Dimonios | 6a | 25m | |||
8 | ★★ La ferita | 6a | 20m | |||
9 | ★★ Il solitario | 6a | 20m | |||
10 | ★★ Vamos a matar companeros | 5b | 25m | |||
11 | ★ Petunia | 6b+ | 30m | |||
12 | ★★ La rampa | 6a+ | 30m | |||
13 | ★★ Non potto reposare | 6a+ | 30m | |||
14 | ★ Una nuova vita | 5c | 20m | |||
15 | ★★ Raiu | 6a | 21m, 8 | |||
16 | ★★ Tuco | 6a | 21m | |||
17 | ★★ Cocillo | 5a | 30m | |||
18 | ★ Enjoy the silence | 5c | 30m | |||
19 | ★★ Mr Serra | 5a | 29m | |||
20 | ★★ Riscaldati | 5a | 25m, 7 | |||
21 | ★★ Bentu 'e susu | 5b | 20m | |||
22 | ★★ Happy hour | 6b | 20m | |||
23 | Calma apparente | 6b+ | 25m | |||
24 | Maestrale | 6c | 24m | |||
25 | ★★★ no name | 6a+ | 30m |
1.2.4.2. Versante sud-est 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.265496, 9.602099
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sconosciuto | 6a+ | 25m | |||
2 | ★★ E falande Marinu | 5b | 25m | |||
3 | ★★ Scirocco | 5c | 25m, 9 | |||
4 | ★★ Antonio 07 | 6a | 25m | |||
5 | ★★ Sbarello per te | 6c | 25m | |||
6 | Mentitori | 6b | 25m | |||
7 |
Adelante ombre
Warning Fixed Gear: Missing hanger | 6a+ | 22m | |||
8 | Piripero | 6a+ | 22m, 7 | |||
9 | Tieni il tempo | 5c | 15m | |||
10 | Escucha | 6a | 25m |
1.2.5. Budino 21 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Alpine climbing
Lat / Long: 40.288192, 9.618001
description
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | senza nome 1 | 5b | 20m | |||
2 | La paperallegra | 6c+ | 18m | |||
3 | Bella'mbriana | 5c | 18m | |||
4 | senza nome 2 | 5c | 15m | |||
5 | senza nome 3 | 5c | 16m | |||
6 | senza nome 4 | 5c | 16m | |||
7 | senza nome 5 | 6a+ | 30m | |||
8 | Herpes | 6c | 32m | |||
9 | senza nome 6 | 5c | 30m | |||
10 | Turbamento inguinale | 5a | 180m, 4 | |||
11 |
variante
to Turbamento | 5a | 30m | |||
12 | La Max | 3 | 40m | |||
13 | senza nome 7 | 5a | 20m | |||
14 | SPQR | 3 | 170m, 6 | |||
15 | Spigolo Porcu | 4b | 220m | |||
16 | Via della mammotta | 4 | 190m | |||
17 | ★★★ Ayatollah | 4 | 190m | |||
18 | Budinostory | 5a | 50m | |||
19 | Palla e Gigi | 4b | 45m | |||
20 | Giusys | 5a | 55m, 2 | |||
21 | Gigi e Palla | 6a | 39m |
1.2.6. La Poltrona 72 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.283155, 9.612175
summary
Sardinia's megaclassic - slabby grey limestone up to 180 m high
description
Slabby grey limestone with shallow pocket marks https://climbingitaly.com/area/cala-gonone/?doing_wp_cron=1695832172.2462921142578125000000
access issues
One of the main areas near Cala Gonone, just a few kilometres from Dorgali and about 30 km from Nuoro
approach
parking at the Campo Sportivo - 5 minets from the crag
where to stay
Plenty of hotels and accomodation in Cala Gonone
1.2.6.1. Basso (a destra) 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.282682, 9.613591
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Cime Tempestive | 5b | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 | ★★ Cacao Meravigliao | 5c | 37m | |||||
3 | ★★ Indietro tutta | 5c | 37m | |||||
4 | ★★ Sono forse io? | 5b | 30m, 10 | |||||
5 | ★★ Hey Jude | 5c | 30m, 10 | |||||
6 | ★★ Dopo il Pesce | 5b | 20m | |||||
7 | Guendalina | 4c | 25m | |||||
8 | ★★ Ciquita | 5a | 25m, 10 | |||||
9 | Pali e Dispali | 4c | 15m | |||||
10 | ★★ Sogno | 5a | 15m | |||||
11 | Capri | 4b | 15m | |||||
12 | ★★ Piccolo Stronzo | 4c | 15m | |||||
13 | ★ Karo-X | 4a | 15m |
1.2.6.2. Main sector 42 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.283371, 9.612620
1.2.6.3. Poltrona Alta 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.283654, 9.611597
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Luna di miele | 8a | 55m, 2 | |||
2 | Aria condizionata | 6c | 90m, 3 | |||
3 | Puerco escondido | 6b+ | 80m, 3 | |||
4 | Beni Fattu | 6b+ | 25m | |||
5 | El diablo | 6c | 25m | |||
6 | ★★ Fox climber | 6a | 30m | |||
7 | Calicanto | 7a | 30m | |||
8 | ★★★ Cafe creme | 6b | 50m, 2 | |||
9 | Arrorugo | 6a+ | 20m | |||
10 | Fiocco di neve | 6c | 25m | |||
11 | ★★ Nera a meta | 6b | 30m | |||
12 | Raggio di luna | 7a | 25m | |||
13 | Danza selvaggia | 7a | 25m | |||
14 | Jedi | 7a+ | 25m | |||
15 | Village people | 7a+ | 25m | |||
16 | Enzimi di primavera | 6b | 30m | |||
17 |
★★★ Cherry line to heaven
Im linken Teil der Poltrona, unterhalb der auffälligen Quarz-Ader, den Einstieg der Route Pesciaro (34) nutzend zu großen Absatz (1). Von Rechts nach Links oberhalb des Felsbogens zu Stand (2). Rechts neben der Quarz-Ader zu Überhang (3) und weiter (4) und (5) zum Ausstieg. FA: FA: Thomas Türpe u. Ulrich Barthel u. Gunter Schippers u. Hans-Hagen Hempel u. Frank Lindner u. Christian Tirschmann, 2 Oct 2018 | 6c | 120m, 5 |
1.2.7. Monte Irveri 66 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.298077, 9.635208
description
1.2.7.1. Arcadio 48 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.296827, 9.637597
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sorella mia | 6b | 15m | |||||
2 | ★ Pappagallo ripetente | 6a+ | 12m | |||||
3 | ★ Strega del Vento | 6a+ | 12m | |||||
4 | ★★★ Stressino | 6b+ | 18m | |||||
5 | ★★★ Un Sorriso Tra le Stelle | 6c | 18m | |||||
6 | ★★ Zwei Tetten | 6c | 18m | |||||
7 | Lucia loca | 30m | ||||||
8 | A Kent'annos | 7c+ | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 | Lo strappo | 7b | 20m | |||||
10 | ★ M.Tossina | 6a | 20m | |||||
11 | ★★ V.B. | 7a | 25m | |||||
12 | ★★★ Un Panino e Via | 7c | 25m | |||||
13 | ★★ Brody Oy | 7a+ | 25m | |||||
14 | ★★★ NonnoRock | 7c | 25m | |||||
15 | Travolti da un insolito destino... | 8a+ | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Gran Bel Pasticcio | 7b | 25m | |||||
17 | ★★★ Hakuna matata / Akuna matata | 6c | 25m | |||||
18 | ★ Dos Matalas | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
19 | ★★ Gandhi | 6c+ | 15m | |||||
20 | ★ Coccodrillo Drin Drin | 5c | 20m | |||||
21 | ★ Capitan Mutanda | 6a | 20m | |||||
22 | ★ Chiamami Trigolo | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
23 | ★★ Spassiarì | 7b+ | 15m | |||||
24 | ★★ Manca l'Aria | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
25 | ★★ L' Italia nel Pallone | 7a+ | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
26 |
★ Mato Obdoso
Boulder Einstieg mit 2 Zügen Wird oben einfacher | 6c+ | 28m, 13 | |||||
27 | ★★ Crescendo | 6b+ | 27m, 13 | |||||
28 | ★★ Beato Bottarga | 6a+ | 22m, 10 | |||||
29 | ★★ Scrat | 7a | 33m | |||||
30 | ★★★ Spalmabile Piccante | 6b+ | 35m, 15 | |||||
31 |
★★ Folletto Maledetto
Warning Fixed Gear: Rusty bolts | 7b+ | 25m | |||||
32 | ★★ I Due Cosmonauti | 7c | 20m | |||||
33 | ★★ La Voce | 7b+ | 30m | |||||
34 | ★★ Colpo Di Sole | 7b | 37m | |||||
35 | ★★★ Piangi e Ridi | 7a | 35m | |||||
36 |
★★★ In Qualche Luogo nel Tempo
Schlechter Zustand der BH und Stand Sehr schöne Route | 6c+ | 55m, 2 | |||||
37 | ★★ Brisky | 7a | 20m | |||||
38 | ★★ I'm So Glad | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
39 | ★★★ Il Lato Oscuro di Arcadio | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
40 | Galana | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
41 | ★★ Rosa a monte | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
42 | ★★★ Murta | 6b | 25m | |||||
43 | ★ Chessa | 6b | 25m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
44 | Pipiolu | 6b | 30m | |||||
45 | ★★★ Mitica Mossa | 6b | 25m | |||||
46 | Benas | 6a+ | 30m | |||||
47 | ★★ Jonny Gremino | 5c | 25m | |||||
48 | ★★ Le Mele di Chiara | 6a | 25m |
1.2.7.2. Soledad 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.298685, 9.635712
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Caro Freddy | 7a+ | 12m | |||
2 | ★★ Soledad | 7b | 12m | |||
3 | Labirintite | 7a | 15m | |||
4 | Rudy Rubacuori | 7b+ | 12m | |||
5 | Fucushima | 7b | 12m | |||
6 | ★★★ Lamphatu | 7a+ | 12m | |||
7 | ★★ La Sacra Scuola | 7b | 12m | |||
8 | ★★ Il Maestro | 6b+ | 15m | |||
9 | ★★★ Iscoriati | 6a+ | 15m | |||
10 | ★★ Chentu Concas, Chentu Berrittas | 6a | 15m | |||
11 | ★★★ Capitan Spruzzo | 6a | 15m | |||
12 | ★★ Bigoscamorz | 6c+ | 15m | |||
13 | ★★ Maiale Morto | 7a | 15m | |||
14 | ★★ Zingaro | 7a+ | 15m | |||
15 | ★★ Joccala Sa Limba | 6c | 15m |
1.2.7.3. Borotalco 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.299193, 9.632470
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Borotalco | 20m | ||||
2 | ★★ Jo Bobba | 7b | 20m | |||
3 | ★★★ La Donna di Picche | 7a+ | 20m |
1.2.8. L'Alveare 31 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.296120, 9.632797
description
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Mister Q | 6a+ | 20m | |||
2 | Gold | 6b | 20m | |||
3 | Bond | 7a | 20m | |||
4 | ★★★ Finger | 6c | 20m | |||
5 | Spectre | 7a+ | 20m | |||
6 | ★★ Totem | 6c | 20m | |||
7 |
★★ Ali
Set: Gianluca Piras, 1999 | 6c | 20m | |||
8 |
★ Pupa
Set: Gianluca Piras, 1999 | 7a | 20m | |||
9 |
Mela
Set: Gianluca Piras, 1999 | 6c+ | 20m | |||
10 |
L'Ape maya
Set: Gianluca Piras, 1999 | 6b+ | 20m | |||
11 |
S'Appentu
Set: Gianluca Piras, 1999 | 6c+ | 20m | |||
12 |
L'Ape cross
Set: Gianluca Piras, 1999 | 6c | 20m | |||
13 | ★★ La goduria | 6b+ | 15m | |||
14 | Mollypenny | 6b | 15m | |||
15 | Lento | 6b | 15m | |||
16 | Adagio | 6a | 15m | |||
17 | Rondò | 5a | 15m | |||
18 | ★ Allegro | 5a | 15m | |||
19 | Tango | 5a | 15m | |||
20 | ★★ Valige volanti | 6a+ | 20m | |||
21 | Ribaltone | 6b+ | 25m | |||
22 |
★ Miele amaro
Set: Gianluca Piras, 1999 | 6c+ | 30m | |||
23 |
★★ Pungiglione
Set: Gianluca Piras, 1999 | 7a | 30m | |||
24 | ★ Troccada | 6a | 25m | |||
25 |
★★ Dolce miele
Set: Gianluca Piras, 1999 | 6b | 20m | |||
26 | La rotula | 6a | 25m | |||
27 | ★ Foxy lady | 6b | 20m | |||
28 |
Pappa reale
Set: Gianluca Piras, 1999 | 7a | 30m | |||
29 |
Polline
Set: Gianluca Piras, 1999 | 6b+ | 30m | |||
30 |
Fuco
Set: Gianluca Piras, 1999 | 7a - b | 30m | |||
31 |
Lape
Set: Gianluca Piras, 1999 | 7a+ | 30m |
1.2.9. Margheddie 113 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.301947, 9.649388
description
1.2.9.1. Non Stop 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Alpine climbing
Lat / Long: 40.298728, 9.646078
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Zinggis linggi | 5c | 25m | |||
2 | ★★ Chiara | 5b | 25m | |||
3 | Leia | 5a | 25m | |||
4 | ★★ senza nome | 5a | 25m | |||
5 | Bella vista | 5a | 35m | |||
6 | Jo-Einsiedeln | 5a | 20m | |||
7 | Non Stop | 4b | 150m | |||
8 | Hantayo | 6b | 70m | |||
9 | Wilkinson | 5a | 95m, 3 | |||
10 |
★★★ Ocio che börlo
Warning Fixed Gear: Top | 5b | 100m, 3 | |||
11 | Coppini brasati | 6a | 100m, 3 |
1.2.9.2. Nomadi 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Kasbah | 5c | 20m | |||
2 | ★ Abigeato | 5b | 18m | |||
3 | ★★ Biberon | 5b | 25m | |||
4 | senza nome 1 | 5b | 20m | |||
5 | senza nome 2 | 5a | 20m | |||
6 | ★★ senza nome 3 | 5b | 20m | |||
7 | senza nome 4 | 4c | 20m | |||
8 | ★★ senza nome 5 | 5c | 25m | |||
9 | ★★★ Senza Nome 6 | 5c | 25m | |||
10 | ★★★ Nomadi | 6a+ | 25m | |||
11 | ★★★ Verso Oriente | 6b | 35m | |||
12 | ★★★ Mon Jardin Exotique | 6b | 30m | |||
13 | ★★★ Psykika | 6b | 30m | |||
14 | ★★★ L'Amore è Geco | 6b+ | 30m | |||
15 | ★★★ Il Testimone | 6b+ | 30m |
1.2.9.3. Ninna nanna 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.303135, 9.650631
approach
Cala Gonone Richtung Nord-Ost auf der Via Codula e' Gostui verlassen. An der ersten scharfen Linkskurve befindet sich rechterhand ein Durchfahrts-Verboten-Schild. Hier Parken. Anschließend eben diesem (für Autos gesperrten Weg) oberhalb der Küste für ca. 30min folgen. Es kommen zunächst die Abzweige zu "Non Stop" und "Nomadi". Und eine Kehre weiter der Abzweig zu "Ninna nanna".
descent notes
Wie Zustieg.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Zero Tondo | 5c | 20m | |||
2 | ★★ Albero Azzurro | 6a | 20m | |||
3 | ★★ Pepe | 6b | 20m | |||
4 | ★★★ Dodò | 6a+ | 20m | |||
5 | ★★ Isabel | 5b | 40m | |||
6 | ★★ Lava e la Pilly | 5c | 28m | |||
7 | ★★ Festeggiando i tre mesi | 6a+ | 50m, 2 | |||
8 |
★★★ variante
to Festeggiando... | 6a | 15m | |||
9 | ★★ Papassina | 6a+ | 50m, 2 | |||
10 | ★ Il giangommone | 5c | 40m | |||
11 | ★★★ La Prima Volta | 6a+ | 40m, 2 | |||
12 | ★★★ Al fronte del porto | 6a+ | 40m | |||
13 | Corda corta | 6a+ | 35m | |||
14 | ★ Su peri cocone | 6b+ | 37m | |||
15 | ★★★ Ninna Nanna per Martina | 6a | 60m | |||
16 | ★ senza nome 1 | 6a+ | 40m | |||
17 | senza nome 2 | 6b+ | 40m | |||
18 | Senza nome 4 | 5a | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Fettuccine | 6a | 20m | |||
20 | senza nome 3 | 6c | 20m | |||
21 | senza nome 6 | 20m |
1.2.9.4. Nuovo 0 routes in Sector
description
nell'impluvio che precede El Chorro
1.2.9.5. Sardi di Cuore 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.305148, 9.652699
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Beauté cachée | 5b | 15m | |||
2 | ★★ Babette, les lunettes! | 5b | 25m | |||
3 | ★★★ unknown name . | 5c | 25m | |||
4 | ★★★ Sardi di cuore | 5b | 28m | |||
5 | ★★ L'ombelico | 6a | 26m | |||
6 | ★★ La canna mancata | 5c | 27m | |||
7 | ★★ Ho bisogno di sole | 6a | 27m | |||
8 | ★★ Chincalierie | 6b | 27m | |||
9 | ★★★ unknown name .. | 5c | 32m | |||
10 | ★★ unknown name ... | 5c | 32m | |||
11 | ★★ Un passo a destra | 5b | 32m | |||
12 | ★★ unknown name .... | 5c | 32m | |||
13 | ★★★ Sul dorso del drago | 6a | 35m | |||
14 | ★★ Uscita di soccorso | 6b+ | 28m | |||
15 | unknown name ..... | 5c | 28m | |||
16 | Suonata invernale | 5b | 28m | |||
17 | ★ unknown name ...... | 5a | 30m | |||
18 | ★ Andate ad arrampicare! | 5b | 30m | |||
19 | ★★ Piccante ma non troppo | 6b+ | 30m | |||
20 | ★★★ Piccantissima | 6c+ | 20m |
1.2.9.6. Turisti per Caso 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Little Sausage | 6b | 90m, 3 | |||
2 | Mister Kinder | 6a+ | 25m | |||
3 | Miss Nutella | 6a+ | 25m | |||
4 | Tic Tac | 6b | 25m | |||
5 | Rocher | 6b | 22m | |||
6 | Duplo | 6a+ | 22m | |||
7 | Mon Cheri | 6a | 20m | |||
8 | K.Surprise | 6b | 18m |
1.2.9.7. Torre di Mezzo 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | L´urlo | 6c+ | 35m, 2 | |||
2 | La via lattea | 7a+ | 25m | |||
3 | ★★ Pesadilla | 6c | 32m | |||
4 | ★★ L´anno che verrá | 6a+ | 32m | |||
5 | Lo spit segreto | 5b | 20m | |||
6 | Pitou & la lucertola | 5b | 20m | |||
7 | Renzillo | 6b+ | 40m, 2 | |||
8 | Barbabianca | 6a | 32m | |||
9 | Blocca spagnola | 6a+ | 32m | |||
10 | Il miracolato | 6a+ | 25m |
1.2.9.8. El chorro 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Matias | 6b | 20m | |||
2 | ★★ Crackers e Fachiri | 6c | 15m | |||
3 | ★★ Loca Morena | 6c+ | 25m | |||
4 |
★★ Paprika
Blumenkohl Felsen, Spitzig | 7a+ | 25m | |||
5 | ★★ Cyborg space plus / Cyborg Space | 7a | 25m | |||
6 | ★★★ Rosa libidinosa / Rosa Liboin | 8a | 30m | |||
7 | ★★★ Il Catalicammello | 30m | ||||
8 | ★★★ El corf | 8a | 25m | |||
9 | ★★★ El Chorro | 7c | 25m | |||
10 | ★★ Mademoiselle Toxine | 7b+ | 30m | |||
11 | ★★★ La Lavandaia | 6c | 35m | |||
12 | ★★ Tre uomino in fuga | 6c+ | 35m | |||
13 | ★★★ Un giorno da pecora | 6b+ | 25m | |||
14 | Petit Louis | 6b | 35m, 2 | |||
15 | Ciuhui | 6b | 18m | |||
16 | Il vecchio ginepro | 6c | 15m | |||
17 | L'errore | 6c+ | 15m | |||
18 | Cabron valiente | 6b | 15m |
1.2.9.9. S´Arcu ´e sa Turre 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | senza nome . | 6a | 25m | |||
2 | senza nome .. | 6c+ | 20m | |||
3 | Regalo orribile | 6c | 20m | |||
4 | Fobia | 6b+ | 18m | |||
5 | Stradivarius | 6a+ | 22m | |||
6 | Partiamo bene | 6b+ | 22m | |||
7 | Highway | 6a | 25m | |||
8 | Acquaboniste | 6a | 25m | |||
9 | Hallo Miscia | 5c | 30m | |||
10 | Dita dure | 6a+ | 20m |
1.2.10. Biddiriscottai 58 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.294049, 9.646263
description
approach
dont use google maps for the approach, use the walkway on the beach instead.
1.2.10.1. First Grotto 31 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.293642, 9.645745
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Meteopatia | 7c | 25m | |||||
2 | ★★ Meteopatia Var. | 6c | 20m | |||||
3 | ★★ Thai dream | 7b | 25m | |||||
4 | ★★ Ipse dixit | 7a | 20m | |||||
5 | ★★ Mina vagante | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
6 | ★ Cipporine | 7a | 20m | |||||
7 | Incastro Maligno | 7b+ | 25m | |||||
8 | senza nome 1 | 7c+ | 25m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 | ★ Aberrante | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
10 | Aberrante EXT | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
11 | ★ Schiavi bianchi | 6c+ | 15m | |||||
12 | ★★ Vertebra | 6c+ | 15m | |||||
13 |
★★ Nelle fauci del lupo
Grade is written at the start | 6a+ | 15m | |||||
14 | ★ Happy new year | 6a+ | 15m | |||||
15 | ★ Sirene al muro | 6a | 15m | |||||
16 | ★ senza nome 2 | 5b | 15m | |||||
17 | ★ Lithium | 6a | 15m | |||||
18 | ★ Eddy | 5c | 15m | |||||
19 | ★★ Eddy EXT | 6c | 25m | |||||
20 | ★ Vai Tossina! | 5b | 15m, 7 | |||||
21 | ★ Bucio de culo | 5b | 15m | |||||
22 | ★ Fuck | 5b | 15m | |||||
23 | ★★★ Catch you later | 6a | 40m | |||||
24 | ★★★ senza nome 4 | 20m | ||||||
25 |
★★★ The oblong box
Traverses via anchor of "Schiavi della Pietra", "La spalliera (right variant)" and goes into the crack at the end of the roof. | 6a | 40m | |||||
26 | ★★ Schiavi della Pietra | 7a/a+ | 15m | |||||
27 |
★★★ La spalliera (left variant)
Original route, after the roof traverses left to the common anchor with "Schiavi della pietra" | 7a+ | 25m | |||||
28 |
★★ La spalliera (right variant)
After the roof goes directly up. | 7b+ | 25m | |||||
29 | ★★ C'est la vie | 7a+ | 15m | |||||
30 | ★ Il mago dormiglione | 6c+ | 15m | |||||
31 | ★★ Paolino | 6b | 20m |
1.2.10.2. Right of First Grotto 27 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.294330, 9.646514
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Passo Salso | 6a+ | 20m | |||
2 | ★★ Salmostra | 6b+ | 20m | |||
3 |
★★ Ariel
roof | 6c+ | 12m | |||
4 | ★★★ Poseidone | 7b+ | 20m | |||
5 | Depressione caspica | 7c+ | 25m | |||
6 | Unita di produzione | 6b | 25m | |||
7 | ★ Il Bimbi | 6a | 15m | |||
8 | Guardia e ladri | 6a | 15m | |||
9 | ★ Heinz | 6a | 20m | |||
10 | Il gladiatore | 8a+ | 60m, 2 | |||
11 | Lo scivolo | 6a | 25m | |||
12 | ★★ Bar gullich | 6b | 35m | |||
13 | Les visiteurs | 7b | 80m, 2 | |||
14 | ★ Triglia elettrificata | 7a+ | 20m | |||
15 | ★★★ Hard lover | 7b+ | 20m | |||
16 | Tetzuya | 7b+ | 20m | |||
17 | ★★ M'importa 'na sega | 7b | 25m | |||
18 |
★★★ Maledetti miserabili
FA: Manolo, 1979 | 6b+ | 30m, 6 | |||
19 | La buazza | 7a+ | 30m | |||
20 | ★★★ Viva Messico! Viva Zapata | 7a | 30m, 12 | |||
21 | Bushkashi | 7b | 30m | |||
22 | Fiore | 6b | 50m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ The hark | 6a+ | 30m | |||
24 | La polvere del Mexico | 6c+ | 30m | |||
25 | La vita nuova | 6a | 100m, 4 | |||
26 |
★★ Alla Ricerca del Punto C
Route vollständig mit Edelstahl BH ausgerüstet. 70 Meter Seil Abstieg: Abseilen über die Route FA: N. Calazza, 2012 | 6b+ | 100m, 4, 10 | |||
27 |
★★ Innocenti Deviazioni
Route mit Edelstahl BH ausgerüstet. 70 Meter Seil Abstieg: Abseilen über die Route FA: R. Innocenti, E. Pinotti & M. Oviglia, 2011 | 6a+ | 110m, 5, 10 |
1.2.11. Millennium 32 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.301558, 9.653233
summary
Huge cave with fantastic overhanging routes. The approach is a via ferrata.
description
approach
Park on the first, sharp left turn after Cala Gonone towards Cala Cartoe (Link to the parking area)
From there follow the gravel road till you see the Millennium marking on the left side after approx. 2 km (see picture). Now follow a small path on the right side to the via ferrata which leads to the cave.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Millennium Bug
Fully bolted, take 12qds, 2 50m ropes and slings. Two or three medium Cams can be useful. Descent by foot via access to Millennium Cave FA: 2010 | 7b+ | 110m, 5 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 | ★★ Mammuthone | 8b+ | 2 | |||||
3 | ★★ Chentu concas chentu berritas | 7b+ | ||||||
4 |
★★★ Crisi al buio
Marine grade bolts 2021 | 7a+ | ||||||
5 |
★★★ Millennium
The first pitch ends at the lower off from 'La legge delle chiodande'. The second continues slightly to the right. | 7c+ | 40m, 2 | |||||
6 | ★★★ La legge delle chiodande | 7a+/b | ||||||
7 | Le lion de Panshir | 8b+ | ||||||
8 | ★★ Vercors Connection | 7a | 30m | |||||
9 | Come un gatto sull'Aurelia | 7b | ||||||
10 | ★★★ French Connection | 6c | 25m | |||||
11 | ★★ Dea Pagana | 7c | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Gli Dei tossici | 7b+ | ||||||
13 | Tre corsari | 7a | ||||||
14 | ★★ Trentatre trentini / 33 trentini | 6b+ | ||||||
15 | ★★ Captain Shakespeare | 6c+ | ||||||
16 |
★★ Oups
Warning Fixed Gear: Corroded bolts | 6b | 25m | |||||
17 | Tom el sereno | 7a | ||||||
18 | ★★ Ciao Alessandra, ciao Renzo | 7a+ | 22m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
19 | ★★★ Casus belli | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
20 | ★★★ Harry Potter | 7b+ | 25m | |||||
21 | ★★★ The day after | 7b | 25m | |||||
22 | ★★ Il mio miglior amico | 7a | 25m | |||||
23 |
Testardo
Start with 'Bogiardo' and later traverse into 'Il mio miglior amico' | 8a | ||||||
24 | Bogiardo | 7c+ | ||||||
25 | Mata durga | 7b/b+ | 40m | |||||
26 | ★ Giardino dell'eden | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
27 | ★★ Yoddu li e dulliö | 6a | 20m | |||||
28 | Kubomaladia: Zigantumania | 8c+ | 65m, 3 | |||||
29 | ★★★ Il vecchio e il mare | 8b | 60m, 2 | |||||
30 | Si su chelu fit in terra | 7c+/8a | ||||||
31 | ★★ Adamo | 6b | ||||||
32 | ★ Mare Aperto | 6a |
1.2.12. Millennium multipitch 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 40.299162, 9.651331
summary
Multipitch lines accessible from the millennium cave access
description
Revolted in titanium in 2019. https://climbingitaly.com/area/cala-gonone/?doing_wp_cron=1695832172.2462921142578125000000
approach
Like for the millennium cave, at the end of the fixed ropes, take a right path going down to the see.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Oceano mare | 6b+ | 150m, 5, 14 | |||||
2 | Black cimigiones | 7a | 170m, 7 | |||||
3 |
I Miei Amici Sadi
Take 10qds nuts a set of friends and a 70m rope Decent as for Oceano Mare FA: 2004 | 6c A0 | 110m, 5 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Zanahoria
Fully bolted with titanium glue ins, but if you don't like runnouts you can bring a singlerack of cams.75-3 shoud do the trick. If you want to link pitches recommend taking a 70m rope and 14qds P1)6a solo up to the conglomerate for 8m then clip bolts and climb face till the bottom of the first cave. P2)6a+ climb through the cave to the base of the next cave there are 2 Sets of anchor bolts recommend using the second set easier to belay and nicer position. P3) 6a climb through the tunnel to the next belay on a small ledge, good idea to use a few cams off the belay if you are uncomfortable but not a must. P4) 5b head right of the belay and up the corner rap thing to the top bit runout so if you feel like using some cams it's not a bad idea. Decent walk up to the road following Kerns. FA: 2004 | 6a+ | 140m, 4 |
1.2.13. Grotta dei Colombi 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Alpine climbing
description
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Oceno mare | 6b+ | 160m, 5 | |||
2 | ★★★ Zanahoria | 6c | 140m, 4 | |||
3 | Apriti cielo | 6c+ | 150m, 5 | |||
4 | Qualcosa di nuovo | 150m | ||||
5 | ★★ L'alchimista | 6c+ | 210m, 7 |
1.2.14. Budinetto 31 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.289713, 9.622198
description
where to stay
Cala Gonone
1.2.14.1. Le vie della falesia principlae 29 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.289391, 9.622394
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Biddoi | 4c | 20m | |||
2 | ★★ Stockhornsport | 5b | 35m | |||
3 | ★ El Piero | 6a+ | 35m | |||
4 | ★★★ Lolla | 5c | 30m | |||
5 | ★★ Snikky snakky mukky mukky | 5c | 30m | |||
6 | ★★ Hula | 6a | 30m | |||
7 | Maleducato | 6a | 35m | |||
8 | ★★ Il re della griglia | 5a | 20m | |||
9 | Mitico Gippi | 5b | 20m | |||
10 | ★ La mula | 5b | 15m | |||
11 | S. Peppina vergine | 5c | 15m | |||
12 | Il sorriso di Sacha | 6a | 30m | |||
13 | ★ Natalie | 6a | 35m | |||
14 | ★ Sono un ragazzo padre | 5c | 20m | |||
15 | ★ Geco in calore | 5c | 25m | |||
16 | ★ Come a Chamonix | 5b | 25m | |||
17 | ★ Scamorza | 5b | 25m | |||
18 | ★★ E le capre stanno a guardare | 6a | 25m | |||
19 | Josephine | 6a | 25m | |||
20 | Lenti a contatto | 6c | 35m | |||
21 | senza nome . | 6b | 30m | |||
22 | ★★ Pinocchio | 4a | 15m | |||
23 | ★★★ Speedy caramello | 3c | 15m | |||
24 | ★★ Ibitak | 3b | 15m | |||
25 | ★ AAA Badante cercasi | 5a | 35m | |||
26 |
Vannaghe
nuts! | 5a | 40m | |||
27 | ★★ Con vista sul mare | 5a | 22m | |||
28 | ★★ senza nome .. | 5a | 12m | |||
29 | Spigolo di destra | 3c | 80m |
1.2.14.2. A destra dello spigolo 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
(esposte a sud-est)
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Jasmine | 5a | 20m | |||
2 | Glù box | 5c | 40m |
1.2.15. Placche Flintstones 24 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.288399, 9.619703
description
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ciottolina | 5a | 22m | |||
2 | ★★ Il picchio telegrafista | 5c | 22m | |||
3 | ★★ Betty | 6a+ | 27m | |||
4 | ★ Dino | 6a | 27m | |||
5 |
★★ Rel
(via incompleta) | 6a+ | 35m | |||
6 | ★ Bed rock | 6c | 22m | |||
7 | ★★★ Bam-bam | 6a | 22m | |||
8 | Barny Rubble | 5c | 22m | |||
9 | ★★ Edulcoranti non cariogeni | 5b | 30m | |||
10 | ★★ Hollyrock | 5a | 30m | |||
11 | ★★ Grigio taxi | 5c | 35m | |||
12 | De père en fils | 5c | 32m | |||
13 | Yabadabadou | 5c | 30m | |||
14 | ★ Flintstones | 5c | 30m | |||
15 | Gocce di Fred | 5a | 20m | |||
16 | ★ B.C. | 5b | 30m | |||
17 | ★★★ Crodinosauro | 4c | 30m | |||
18 | Mamma mia | 4b | 18m | |||
19 | ★★ Wilma | 5a | 20m | |||
20 | ★ Dammi la clava | 5a | 15m | |||
21 | ★ Nadis | 5b | 15m | |||
22 |
★ Giulis
Warning Fixed Gear: Keine Bolts, Umleitung ohne Kette | 5b | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Crodimanon | 5b | 12m | |||
24 | ★ Sapiens sapiens | 4c | 20m |
1.2.16. Ziu Martine 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.261245, 9.624184
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Meno di zero | 7a+ | 12m | |||
2 | Passaggio segreto | 7c | 25m | |||
3 | Out of the dark | 7c+ | 25m | |||
4 | Killing joint | 6c+ | 15m | |||
5 | Il pensionato | 8a | 25m | |||
6 | Svegliati Andrea | 7b+ | 30m | |||
7 | Mele 'e modizzousu | 7b | 15m |
1.2.17. Cala Fuili 247 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.257247, 9.620073
summary
Some of the best and most beautiful climbing in all of Cala Gonone,all within a short walk of each other this spot has it all from face climbing over hangs to tufa climbing.
description
approach
Drive towards Cala Fuili and park at the end of the road. From the parking lot go down the stairs, the cliffs start from beach.
history
Some of these routes have been recently re bolted, inspect all routes before climbing. there is a re-bolting fund being generated from the town to re bolt from the ocean back.
1.2.17.1. Puschtra 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.255317, 9.624809
summary
Located to the north of Cala Fuili beach, this crag has a real beauty located with an amazing view and some awesome cave climbing.
approach
From Cala Fuili beach head to the north end and follow cliff-line and ropes systems round.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Stessa Spiaggia Stesso Mare | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
2 | ★★ Puschtra | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
3 | ★★★ Nevrotica | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
4 | ★★★ My Way | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
5 | ★★★ Le Cause Perse | 7a | 20m | |||||
6 | ★★ Corvo Rosso | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
7 | ★ Chi Rompe Paga | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
8 | ★ Su Scottau | 6a+ | 10m | |||||
9 | ★★ L' Ingegnere | 6b | 10m | |||||
10 | ★★ La Prua | 7c | 10m | |||||
11 | ★ Senza Nome | 6c | 10m |
1.2.17.2. Spiaggia Est 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.255771, 9.624232
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Bivouacs sous la lune | 5a | 15m | |||||
2 | La montagne aux écritures | 5b | 15m | |||||
3 | ★ La piste oubliée | 5b | 15m | |||||
4 | ★★ Rende-vous d'Essendilène | 4c | 10m | |||||
5 | ★ Le versant du soleil | 4c | 15m | |||||
6 | ★ Manga | 5a | 20m | |||||
7 | ★ Zia Lilith | 5b | 22m | |||||
8 | ★★ Spigolo Fuili | 5b | 25m | |||||
9 | ★★ Porto io i nuts!! / Ti do io i nuts! | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
★★ Robinson
Hard boulder start then nice finish on bigger holds | 6b+ | 10m | |||||
11 | ★ Dubadabur | 7b | 7m | |||||
12 | ★ Via di Notte | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
13 | ★ Desideria | 6a | 25m | |||||
14 | ★★ Mad Max | 6b+ | 25m |
1.2.17.3. Ferry 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.256531, 9.624383
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ una Giornata per la Terra | 5c | 15m | |||
2 | ★★ Ferry1 | 5b | 15m | |||
3 | ★ Ferry2 | 6a | 15m | |||
4 | ★★ Dieci Secondi | 6c | 15m | |||
5 | ★★ Faithful | 6a+ | 15m | |||
6 | ★★ La Bella Alice | 6b | 15m | |||
7 | ★ Groovy | 6a | 15m | |||
8 | ★★ Catalogna | 7a | 10m | |||
9 | ★ 14 modici euro | 6a+ | 15m | |||
10 | ★★ Il caimano | 6a+ | ||||
11 | ★ Pausa banana | 5b | 15m | |||
12 | Palle al balzo | 5a | 22m | |||
13 | ★★ Alcolica gazo | 5b | 25m | |||
14 | ★★★ Banane al Cioccolato | 5a | 20m | |||
15 | ★★ Cactus Joe | 5b | 15m | |||
16 | ★★ La Casa Segreta | 5a | 20m | |||
17 | ★★ Ponili Peppe | 5a | 20m | |||
18 | ★★ Fuochi d'artificio | 4c | 20m |
1.2.17.4. Amelia 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.256782, 9.625598
description
15 to 35m high routes. Bolts in good condition. Obviously two brandnew routes (no names, left one 6c, right one 6b) in the center of the sector.
approach
Easy approach.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Pippon d'Oro | 6b+ | 25m | |||
2 |
★★★ Stirami il frac Amelia
FFA: F. Fele, 1987 | 7a | 25m | |||
3 | ★★ Lingua Biforca | 7c+ | 15m | |||
4 |
Non toccare la cialda
FA: 2020 | 5c | 12m | |||
5 | ★★★ NA | 6a+ | 18m | |||
6 | ★★ Unknown | 6b+ | 18m | |||
7 | ★★ Beligedda | 6a | 25m | |||
8 | ★★ Poppeye | 6a+ | 25m | |||
9 | ★★ Ponente | 5c | 25m | |||
10 | ★ Il bacio della sirena | 5b | 15m | |||
11 | ★★ Libeccio | 6b | 30m, 2 | |||
12 | ★★ Vento in poppa | 6a+ | 30m | |||
13 | ★ Alta marea | 6a | 30m | |||
14 | ★★ Cotequinho | 5c | 30m | |||
15 | ★ Silja | 6a | 30m | |||
16 | No name | 6a | 30m | |||
17 | ★★★ Sixteen | 6a | 30m | |||
18 | ★★ Kho Phi Phi | 6a+ | 30m | |||
19 | L'ecoume des flots | 6a+ | 10m | |||
20 | ★★ Wolof | 6a | 30m | |||
21 | ★ E' pericoloso sporogersi | 6b+ | 30m |
1.2.17.5. Le Petit Bateau 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.256779, 9.624185
description
(Vie dei bimbi)
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Pikachu | 4b | 17m | |||
2 | ★★ La Pimpa | 4c | 15m | |||
3 | ★★★ Charizard | 4c | 15m | |||
4 | ★★ Raichu | 4a | 15m | |||
5 | ★★ Nesquik | 5b | 25m |
1.2.17.6. Fuili-Cannonau 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.256829, 9.621762
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 01 | 5a | 25m | |||
2 | Solo con i tuoi pedali | 6b | 20m | |||
3 | Cugina da secondo | 6a+ | 25m | |||
4 | lo e Catherine | 5c | 25m | |||
5 | My sweet Anita | 5b | 15m | |||
6 | Leoni | 6a | 50m, 3 | |||
7 | Tri Fieu Tri Matt | 6b+ | 70m, 3 | |||
8 | Vento in poppa | 6a | 70m, 3 | |||
9 | La pinna dello Squalo | 6c | 70m, 3 | |||
10 | sos Sardinas | 6b | 75m, 3 | |||
11 | Abra cadabra | 6a | 70m, 2 | |||
12 | Taliagole | 6a | 25m | |||
13 | Occhi di lince | 6b+ | 50m, 2 | |||
14 | Abigeo | 6b | 50m, 2 | |||
15 | 15 |
1.2.17.7. Strapiombi 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.256756, 9.623332
description
The Hardest section in Cala Fuili with a tonne of hard climbing to be had on some awesome rock.
approach
At the base fo the stairsway from Cala Fuili carpark turn right and follow trail.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Emicrania | 7b+ | 15m | |||
2 | ★★ Black&Blue | 8a+ | 15m | |||
3 | King size | 15m | ||||
4 | ★★★ Totem | 8a | 20m | |||
5 | ★★ Anime Salve | 8b+ | 15m | |||
6 | ★★ Samba | 15m | ||||
7 | ★ Scandalus | 7b+ | 10m | |||
8 | Mare mosso | 8a+ | 15m | |||
9 | ★★★ Panni da Lavare | 7c | 15m | |||
10 | ★★ Plancton | 7c | 15m | |||
11 | ★★ Kaum Zeit zum Traumen | 8b | 20m | |||
12 | ★★ Fumo negli Occhiali | 7c+ | 15m | |||
13 | ★★ 163 Scalini | 8a | 10m | |||
14 | ★★ Dal Blu | 7b | 15m | |||
15 | ★★ E' Sempre Sera | 15m |
1.2.17.8. Raoni 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.256202, 9.621957
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Tapiri | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
2 | ★★ X.S. | 8a | 15m | |||||
3 | ★★★ Scaldaia | 7b | 20m | |||||
4 | ★★ Visual Game | 8a+ | 20m | |||||
5 |
★★★ Raoni
One of the first routes bolted in the area and still a classic. | 8a | 20m | |||||
6 | ★★★ Do It Now | 8a+ | 20m | |||||
7 | ★★ No Global | 8b+ | 20m | |||||
8 | ★★ Amanita Giò | 7c+ | 20m | |||||
9 | ★★ Ice and Rest | 7c+ | 20m | |||||
10 | ★ Prudentia | 6b | 20m | |||||
11 | ★★ Mammolo | 7b | 15m | |||||
12 | ★★ Brontolo | 6c+ | 15m | |||||
13 | ★★ Eolo | 7c+ | 15m | |||||
14 | ★★ Pisolo | 15m | ||||||
|
1.2.17.9. Placca di fronte allo sperone 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.256727, 9.621725
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Senza nome
Only top rope | 25m | ||||
2 | Solo con i tuoi pedali | 6b | 20m | |||
3 | Cugina da secondo | 6a+ | 25m | |||
4 | Lo e Catherine | 5c | 25m | |||
5 | Senza nome | 5b | 15m |
1.2.17.10. Codula Fuili 115 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.257600, 9.618030
1.2.17.10.1. Tritoni 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.256920, 9.620407
|
1.2.17.10.2. Muro dell'umiltà & Imposta 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.257533, 9.619924
description
Topo available at: https://climbingitaly.com/sardegna/fuili-muro-umilta/
|
1.2.17.10.3. Pederiva 19 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.258344, 9.616935
summary
The Cown of Cala Fulli, some of the best rock climbing and routes Sardinia has to offer.
approach
Follow the stairs down from Cala Fulli entrance and follow the stone trail away from the beach keep walking for 5 mins until you can see Pederiva cliff on youyr right.Follow the trail up until you reach the cliff.
|
1.2.17.10.4. Thailandia & Tribuna 42 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.257880, 9.616054
|
1.2.17.10.5. Zedda Piras 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.258004, 9.615547
|
1.2.17.10.6. Teatro 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
1.2.17.10.7. La Vigianite 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.2.17.10.8. Grotta dei Bimbi 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.2.17.11. Paretine del Cannonau 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Mutando | 5b | 10m | |||
2 | ★ Scorreggiando | 5a | 10m | |||
3 | ★★ Solo con i tuoi Pedali | 6b | 25m | |||
4 | ★★ Cugina da Secondo | 6a+ | 25m | |||
5 | ★★ Io e Catherine | 5c | 25m | |||
6 | Senza nome | 5b | ||||
7 | ★★★ In Preda ai Fumi del Cannonau | 7b+ | 20m | |||
8 | Paradise City | ? | 15m | |||
9 | ★★★ Abracadabra | 6a | 80m, 2 | |||
10 | ★★ Vento in Poppa | 5c | 80m, 4 | |||
11 | ★★ Abigeo | 6a+ | 30m | |||
12 | ★★ Occhi di lince | 6a+ | 35m | |||
13 | ★★ Tagliagole | 6a+ |
1.2.17.12. Senza Nome 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.258047, 9.619162
description
A wall with a single 50m 2-pitch route
descent notes
Abseil back down
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Senza Nome
Two pitches, roughly 2x25m. Bolt distance is sometimes a bit larger than for other routes at the beach. The belay stations consist of two bolts connected with an old piece of rope. A maillon is connected to one of the bolts. | 5b | 50m, 2 |
1.2.18. Aguaplano 23 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.264879, 9.607343
description
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | La giarrettiera rosa | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
2 | La pelle che non c'è | 6c+ | 11m | |||||
3 | ★★★ La nostra Africa | 7b | 11m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 | ★ senza nome 1 | 7b+ | 35m, 2 | |||||
5 | senza nome 2 | 7c+ | 35m, 2 | |||||
6 | ★★ Nibaru | 6b | 18m, 6 | |||||
7 | ★ Lughìa | 6b | 25m, 11 | |||||
8 | ★★ Mariano | 6b | 40m, 22 | |||||
9 | ★★★ Tatanu | 7a+ | 35m | |||||
10 | Oh Fra | 7a | 35m | |||||
11 | Zuanna | 6c+ | 30m | |||||
12 | Condula Fuili | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
13 | Bella cando ch'essis | 6c | 25m | |||||
14 | senza nome 3 | |||||||
15 | Diavolo rosso | 6a | 15m | |||||
16 | ★★ La cittá del sole | 7a | 20m | |||||
17 | Patafix | 6b | 20m | |||||
18 | Obelix | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
19 | ★ Panoamix | 6a | 20m | |||||
20 | La via è altrove | 7a | 25m | |||||
21 | Paris mi longa | 6c+ | 15m | |||||
22 | Dancing | 7a+ | 10m | |||||
23 | Blu notte | 10m |
1.2.19. L'ottavo Nano 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.242840, 9.596811
description
I primi rinvii delle vie sono molto alti, nonostante i gradi non siano altissimi, meglio portare con sé un bastone telescopico. https://climbingitaly.com/area/cala-gonone/?doing_wp_cron=1695832172.2462921142578125000000
approach
Una volta girato in direzione Buchi Arta - Cumbida Prantas si trova un passaggio con delle stacionate in legno, la strada passa in mezzo a un letto di fiume asciutto, lasciate la macchina lì, la falesia si trova sopra di voi sulla Sinistra, raggiungibile tramite una pietraia a 2 minuti dalla macchina, strada non segnalata ma abbastanza intuitiva, seguite la parete sopra di voi.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Eolo | 5b | 20m | |||
2 | Brontolo | 6a | 20m | |||
3 | Pisolo | 6b | 20m | |||
4 | Dotto | 6a | 15m | |||
5 | ★ Gongolo | 5c | 15m | |||
6 | ★ Mammolo | 6a | 15m | |||
7 | ★ Cucciolo | 6a+ | 15m | |||
8 | ★ Siviolo | 6a+ | 15m | |||
9 | ★ Romolo | 6c | 15m | |||
10 | ★ Remolo | 6c | 15m | |||
11 | ★ Cutolo | 5b | 12m | |||
12 | Tontolo | 6a+ | 12m | |||
13 | Orgosolo | 5c | 12m | |||
14 | Brufolo | 6a | 25m |
1.2.20. Cuccuru 'e Su Corvu 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.240079, 9.606332
description
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Furighedda | 7b | 30m | |||
2 | Cantores | 7c | 35m | |||
3 |
Su sambene
8a? | 25m | ||||
4 |
★★★ Vector
tolle Ausdauerroute mit Boulderstelle im Mittelteil FA: Thorsten Keil, 2012 | 8a | 25m | |||
5 | No est'abba | 25m | ||||
6 | senza nome . | 25m | ||||
7 | senza nome .. | 25m | ||||
8 | senza nome ... | 20m | ||||
9 | senza nome .... | 20m |
1.2.21. Buchi Arta 52 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.231767, 9.604319
summary
This has many new routes. The grades are written below each route. Beware of the length.
description
In the shade until after lunch/ early afternoon. Many new routes popping up and numbers may not correspond. https://climbingitaly.com/area/cala-gonone/?doing_wp_cron=1695832172.2462921142578125000000
approach
Follow Strada per Buchi Arta from Cala Gonone (a very windy, thin but paved road until you reach the carpark for the wall. Carpark is at 40.232052, 9.602924 Alternatively search on google maps for 'Falesia Buchi Arta' - this is where the crag is and park just near there. Its a 2 minute walk to the crag from there.
where to stay
Camping ground in Cala Gonone. People also sleep in campers and vans in the carpark at the crag and on the sides of the road on the way down there however do this at your own risk as it is forbidden and one could receive a fine.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
new route-list with guidinfo | ||||||||
2 |
★ Tra le gocce
Guide: Nr.1, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 | 6a | 30m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Ciao Dedda
Guide: Nr.2, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 | 5b | 30m | |||||
4 | ★★ s. n. (nr. 3) | 5c | 30m | |||||
5 |
★★ Pensando a Francesca
Guide: Nr.4, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Set: L.Piquet | 6a+ | 30m, 2 | |||||
6 |
★★★ El Principe
Guide: Nr.5, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.1, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 5b | ||||||
7 |
★★ Pur toppo facile
Guide: Nr.6, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.2, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 Set: L.Piquet, 2012 | 5b | 25m | |||||
8 | sn | 5b | 25m, 9 | |||||
9 |
★★ Catwalk
Guide: Nr.7, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Set: L.Piquet, 2012 | 6a | 35m | |||||
10 |
★★ s.n. (nr.8)
Guide: Nr.8, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 | 5b | 20m | |||||
11 |
★★ s.n. (nr.9)
Guide: Nr.9, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.3, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6a+ | 15m | |||||
12 |
s.n. (nr.10)
Guide: Nr.10, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.4, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6a | 15m | |||||
13 |
★★ s.n. (nr.11)
Guide: Nr.11, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.5, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
14 |
★★ s.n. (nr.12)
Guide: Nr.12, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.6, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 |
★ s.n. (nr.13)
Guide: Nr.13, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.7, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6c | 20m, 10 | |||||
16 |
★★★ s.n. (nr.14)
Guide: Nr.14, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.8, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6c | 25m | |||||
17 |
★★ s.n. (nr.15)
Guide: Nr.15, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.9, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
18 |
★★ s.n. (nr.16)
Guide: Nr.16, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.10, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6c | 25m | |||||
19 |
★★★ s.n. (nr.17)
Guide: Nr.17, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.11, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6c+ | 31m | |||||
20 |
★★ s.n. (nr.18)
Guide: Nr.18, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.12, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6a+ | 30m | |||||
21 |
★★ Secure et Simpliciter / s.n. (nr.19)
Guide: Nr.19, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.13, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6a+ | 30m | |||||
22 |
★★ s.n. (nr.20)
Guide: Nr.20, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.14, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6a | 30m | |||||
23 |
★★ s.n. (nr.21)
Guide: Nr.21, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.15, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6b+ | 30m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
24 |
★★ s.n. (nr.22)
Guide: Nr.22, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.16, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6b | 30m | |||||
25 |
★★ s.n. (nr.23)
Guide: Nr.23, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.17, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6a+ | 30m | |||||
26 |
★★ s.n. (nr.24)
Guide: Nr.24, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.18, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
27 |
★★★ Soa
Guide: Nr.25, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.19, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6c | 25m | |||||
28 |
★★ s.n. (Nr.26)
Guide: Nr.26, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.20, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6c | 25m | |||||
29 |
s.n. (Nr.27)
Guide: Nr.27, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.21, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
30 |
s.n. (Nr.28)
Guide: Nr.28, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.22, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
31 |
★★ Ago dolce
Guide: Nr.29, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.23, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6c | 35m | |||||
32 |
★★★ s.n. (nr.30)
Guide: Nr.30, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.24, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
33 |
★★ Mala Tempora Currunt
Guide: Nr.31, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.25, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6c+ | 35m | |||||
34 |
★★ no name
not listet in books same top like 'Action direct' | 7a | 20m | |||||
35 |
★★ Action direct
Guide: Nr.32, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.26, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 7a | 20m | |||||
36 |
★ s.n. (nr.33)
Guide: Nr.33, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.27, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
37 |
★★ s.n. (nr.34)
Guide: Nr.34, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.28, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6c | 25m | |||||
38 |
★★ s.n. (nr.35)
Guide: Nr.35, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.29, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6b | 25m | |||||
39 |
★★★ s.n.
nr. 37 in the new Pietra di Luna - Supramonte guidebook (2021) | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
40 |
★ s.n. (nr.36)
Guide: Nr.36, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.30, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6a | 25m | |||||
41 |
★★ s.n. (nr.37)
Guide: Nr.37, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.31, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 5c | 25m | |||||
42 |
★ s.n. (nr.38)
Guide: Nr.38, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.32, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 5c | 25m | |||||
43 |
★★ Per Lucem / s.n. (nr.39)
Guide: Nr.39, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.33, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 5c | 25m | |||||
44 |
★★ Ad Crucem
Extension L2 from Per Lucem | 6c+ | 10m, 4 | |||||
45 |
★★ Tziu mannu
Guide: Nr.40, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.34, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6a | 20m | |||||
46 |
★★★ Divide et impera
Guide: Nr.41, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 | 6b | 35m | |||||
47 |
★★ Chien noir
Guide: Nr.42, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 | 6b | 30m | |||||
48 |
★★★ Temporale
Guide: Nr.43, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.35, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 Set: X.Ruttimann, 2011 | 6b+ | 35m | |||||
49 |
★★ s.n. (nr.44)
Guide: Nr.44, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.36, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6b | 30m | |||||
50 |
★★ L´apero
Guide: Nr.45, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 | 5c | 27m | |||||
51 |
★★★ s.n. (nr.46)
Guide: Nr.46, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.37, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 5b | 15m | |||||
52 |
s.n. (nr.47)
Guide: Nr.47, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.38, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 6a | 15m | |||||
53 |
★★ s.n. (nr.48)
Guide: Nr.48, Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, Version 2017 Nr.39, Pietra di Luna, Version 2011 | 5c | 15m |
1.2.22. Cala Luna 56 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.226520, 9.626637
Follow the path from Cala Fuili to Cala Luna. It's a 1:30h to 2:00h hike. Hiking boots are recommended.
Rent a boat (approx 80€ per day) or boat drive to Cala Luna (approx 16€ per person) from the Cala Gonone harbour.
Paddle with your own boat from Cala Fuili to Cala Luna, which takes approximately 1:00h to 1:30h.
summary
Some of the most amazing climbing and local Sardinia has to offer. Becareful locals wont climb here as the whole crag needs re bolting.
description
approach
1.2.22.1. Scoglio di Luna 18 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.224437, 9.628072
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Tom say | 7a | 35m, 2 | |||
2 | ★★ La Strada Per Lula | 6b | 18m | |||
3 | ★★★ Un Mare di Infiniti Ricordi | 5c | 18m | |||
4 | ★★ L' Altro Sport | 6b | 18m | |||
5 | ★★ Satori | 6a+ | 18m | |||
6 | ★★ La Prima Goccia | 5c | 18m | |||
7 | ★★★ Fata Morgana | 6b | 18m | |||
8 | ★ Un'ondra di troppo | 6b | 25m | |||
9 | ★★ Fessura degli Spilli | 5c | 70m | |||
10 | ★ Vamos a la Playa | 6a | 75m, 2 | |||
11 | Fucking beach | 7a | 20m | |||
12 | ★ Porno riviste | 6a+ | 15m | |||
13 | Come te nessuno mai | 7b+ | 30m | |||
14 | ★★ Joey | 7b+ | 30m, 2 | |||
15 | ★ Durga Stona | 7a+ | 55m, 2 | |||
16 | Mailee | 6b | 25m | |||
17 | ★ Vampiri di Vetro | 6b | 40m | |||
18 | ★ Vampiri di Vetro 2 | 6b+ | 30m |
1.2.22.2. Grottoni 38 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.227433, 9.625701
1.2.23. Cala Cartoe 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.321212, 9.667447
description
1.2.23.1. Left 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.321193, 9.667290
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Senza nome 1 | |||||
2 | Senza nome 2 | 5c | 10m | |||
3 | Senza nome 3 | 5c | 10m | |||
4 | Senza nome 4 | 5c | 10m | |||
5 | Senza nome 5 | 6a | 10m | |||
6 | Senza nome 6 | 5b | 10m | |||
7 |
Senza nome 7
Warning Fixed Gear: 1st bolt removed |
1.2.23.2. Right 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.321259, 9.667486
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Senza nome 1 | 5c | 8m | |||
2 | Senza nome 2 | 5c | 8m | |||
3 | Senza nome 3 | 5c | 8m | |||
4 |
Senza nome 4
1st bolt removed or moved. Merges with 6a to the right? | 10m | ||||
5 | Senza nome 5 | 6a | 10m | |||
6 | Senza nome 6 | 5b | 10m | |||
7 | Senza nome 7 | |||||
8 | Senza nome 8 | 7a | 15m | |||
9 | Senza nome 9 | 7a | 15m | |||
10 | Senza nome 10 | 5c | 12m |
1.3. Oliena 236 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.248523, 9.451788
1.3.1. Lanaitto 149 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.261506, 9.489223
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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7 |
Guillotine
A route with quite a lot of loose rock and vegetation. Probably not worth repeating. Approach: start from the parking for the place for the Bruncu Nieddu routes (as indicated in the map) and follow the path towards the wall. Pass all the routes of Brunco Nieddu, going in the north-east direction (1 hour). Search for two stand-alone rock formations, one of them reminiscent of a gravestone. Go towards the wall using the rubble behind them. Route starts at the highest point of the saddle behind those rock formations. Pitch 1: directly up for 30 m, with some tricky compression climbing on loose rock (VI+). Picht 2: Walking/II+ for 60 m along the ridge top. Pitch 3: An arc to the left, then to the right around the overhang (20 m, IV) followed by a very unpleasant climb in the vegetation (20 m, VI). Be careful not to set any loose stones in motion! Pitch 4: Climb to the left (10 m, V) to enter a chimney with loose rock (30 m, VI+). There is a huge stone block similar to a guillotine blade in the chimney. Do not touch it! Pitch 5: Climb a shorter chimney (5 m, V) followed by an easy plate (III) followed by a tricky crack climbing towards a standalone bush (VI+). After reaching the bush, go right towards the rubble ramp which extends to the left. Pitch 6: Follow the ramp without belay for 100 m (II) to reach it highest point Pitches 7-10: go straight up towards the top (IV-V, can be done in 3 pitches). Descent: follow the path to the north-east to go around the mountain ridge and gain the approach path (2 hours). Alternatively, if someone can relocate your car, go towards the parking spot near the Ovile Bissedu (as indicated in the map). FA: Uwe Kracht & Anton Husakou, 21 May | {UIAA} 6+ | 400m, 10 |
1.3.1.1. Pianeta Lanaitto 28 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | La mogliettina di entrambi | 6c+ | 12m | |||
2 | Il violino di ingres | 6b+ | 25m | |||
3 | La storia del raponzolo | 6c+ | 25m | |||
4 | Bombee Cristiane su Beirut | 6b | 25m | |||
5 | Piccoli uccelletti socevoli | 7a | 15m | |||
6 | Souvenir d'Isabelle | 7a+ | 50m, 2 | |||
7 | No name 1 | 15m | ||||
8 | No name 2 | 15m | ||||
9 | Il pennino | 7a | 75m, 2 | |||
10 | No name 3 | 6b+ | 50m, 2 | |||
11 | No name 4 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
12 | Coniglliette di primo pelo | 6b | 40m, 2 | |||
13 | volatili di bassa corte | 6b+ | 25m | |||
14 | Dal pianeta lanaitto | 6c | 25m | |||
15 | Sempre dritti per Siurana | 7b+ | 25m | |||
16 | Non per disamore | 7a | 25m | |||
17 | Bon bon per bimbi | 6a | 25m | |||
18 | L'albero di natale | 6b+ | 50m, 2 | |||
19 | Il segreto di pulcinella | 7a | 25m | |||
20 | No name 5 | 7a | 20m | |||
21 | Polpastrelli a rotelle | 6c+ | 20m | |||
22 | No name 6 | 20m | ||||
23 | No name 7 | 7a+ | 20m | |||
24 | non di solo pane | 6a+ | 20m | |||
25 | Pratiche morbose | 6b+ | 20m | |||
26 | Dilettanti veneti | 5c | 15m | |||
27 | Edonismo radicale | 6b | 20m | |||
28 | Menta fresca | 6a+ | 20m |
1.3.1.2. Musicland 49 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.3.1.3. Bella Vista 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Lumpi | 6a | 27m | |||
2 | Tigger & co | 5c | 27m | |||
3 | Winnie Pooh | 6a | 27m | |||
4 | Driphole promenade | 6b | 66m, 2 | |||
5 | Pillar of paradise | 7a+ | 40m | |||
6 | Place of happiness | 7a | 36m | |||
7 | Technical dance | 7b | 58m, 2 |
1.3.1.4. Wonderland 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sardinian invitation | 6b+ | 27m | |||
2 | It's mirto time | 6c | 27m | |||
3 | The spirit of the game | 7a | 30m | |||
4 | Men at work | 7a | 29m | |||
5 | Brutti sporchi & cattivi | 6b+ | 280m, 10 | |||
6 | Mystc nights | 7a+ | 31m |
1.3.1.5. Su Gurruthone 54 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.282758, 9.509166
approach
Follow the road that leads into the Lanaitto until you reach a little brow, just after you turned right into the valley. Park your car here and follow the obvious way up to the crag. Maybe you have to pass a fence to get to the way. You reach the sector on the very right side.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Buon Divertimento | 5b | 32m | |||||
2 | O2M | 5c+ | 32m | |||||
3 | Mandragola | 5c+ | 32m | |||||
4 | Leopard | 6a+ | 32m | |||||
5 | ★★ Bonsai | 5b | 20m | |||||
6 | Bella | 5c | 25m | |||||
7 | Luna | 20m | ||||||
8 | Monamour | 6c | 15m | |||||
9 | Lakana | 6b+ | 18m | |||||
10 | Sieste en Mai | 6b | 15m | |||||
11 | Terre Brune | 6a+ | 28m | |||||
12 | Mammuthone | 5b+ | 28m | |||||
13 | 11 de capidanne | 6a | 28m | |||||
14 | Sa chicchera | 6a | 35m | |||||
15 | Maria | 5c | 30m | |||||
16 | ★★ Ciao ciao Sardegna | 6a | 50m, 2 | |||||
17 | ★★ Scirocco | 6a | 40m, 2 | |||||
18 | ★★★ La roncola | 5c | 50m, 2 | |||||
19 | Biuda | 6a | 32m | |||||
20 | Era un Piacere | 5c | 40m, 2 | |||||
21 | ★★★ L'ami Rene | 6a | 35m | |||||
22 | Qui | 5c | 25m | |||||
23 | Quo | 6a | 20m | |||||
24 | Fico Bonsai | 6a | 25m | |||||
25 | Maestro Piero | 5c | 27m | |||||
26 | Manuela | 6a | 15m | |||||
27 | Da Vinci Code | 6c | 40m | |||||
28 | Lozios | 6b | 25m | |||||
29 | La mano e' stanca | 7a | 15m | |||||
30 | La figa manca | 15m | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
31 | ★★★ La voglia e' tanta | 7a+ | 15m, 5 | |||||
32 | Proj | 15m | ||||||
33 | ★★★ Il cucchiaio | 7b+ | 30m | |||||
34 | Senza nome | 6b | 15m | |||||
35 | Senza nome | 6b | 15m | |||||
36 | ★★★ Ricotta e formaggio | 7b+ | 15m | |||||
37 | Santu crik | 6a+ | 35m | |||||
38 | Zenzero | 6b | 40m | |||||
39 | Impanata e fritta | 6c+ | 35m | |||||
40 | ★★★ Braia | 8a | 35m | |||||
41 | ★★★ Ti regalo un tiro | 8a | 35m | |||||
42 | ★★★ Sacramento | 8a+ | 25m | |||||
43 | ★★★ Sabbie mobili | 7c+ | ||||||
44 | ★★★ Spirito di patata ext | 7c | 40m | |||||
45 | Spirito di patata | 7a+ | 25m | |||||
46 | Caccaverna | 7b+ | 22m | |||||
47 | ★★★ La placca non fa grado | 7c+ | 22m | |||||
48 | ★★★ Parana’ | 6b | 40m | |||||
49 | ★★★ I zolfatiani | 6c | 40m | |||||
50 | ★★★ Linna | 7c+ | 35m | |||||
51 | Marcellino | 6c | 15m | |||||
52 | ★★★ Achicca | 7b | 30m | |||||
53 | ★★★ Oste della malora | 7b+ | 30m | |||||
54 | Uscila | 6c+ | 30m |
1.3.1.6. Badde Pèntumas 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 40.247883, 9.477017
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Casadinas | |||||
2 |
Unchinos
Starts right of La vita è amara and crosses it at the top of pitch 3. FFA: Luca Giupponi & Maurizio Oviglia, 2017 Set: Luca Giupponi & Maurizio Oviglia, 2017 | 8b | 190m, 6 | |||
3 |
La vita è amara
6c obl. Set: Maurizio Oviglia & Giovanni Manconi, Jul 2016 FFA: Maurizio Oviglia & Giovanni Manconi, 23 Aug 2016 | 7a+ | 320m, 11 | |||
4 | ★ Via Ferrata di Badde Pentumas | D | 300m |
1.3.2. Monte Maccione 87 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.257515, 9.425934
1.3.2.1. Magico Spettacolo 24 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Imprinting | 7c+ | 15m | |||
2 | Dammi l'ebbrezza dei tendini | 8a | 20m | |||
3 | Carpe diem | 7a | 10m | |||
4 | La mortina | 7c | 10m | |||
5 | Attaccati | 6b | 10m | |||
6 | Titanic | 7c | 25m | |||
7 | Sioux | 8a | 20m | |||
8 | Sara Femmina | 8b | 25m | |||
9 | Speriamo che sia femmina | 6b+ | 27m | |||
10 | Ritmo genesico | 7a | 30m | |||
11 | Simon Bolivar | 6a | 20m | |||
12 | I soliti ignoti | 6a | 20m | |||
13 | Magico spettacolo | 6a+ | 25m | |||
14 | ★★ Dito de or | 6c | 30m | |||
15 | No name 2 | 6c | 20m | |||
16 | Marantonio | 6a+ | 50m | |||
17 | ★★ Rustichella | 7b+ | 35m | |||
18 | Engioy | 25m | ||||
19 | Battile | 6c | 25m | |||
20 | Moetti | 6c | 25m | |||
21 | Il diedro | 6b+ | 25m | |||
22 | Crux | 7b | 20m | |||
23 | Per un pugno di spit | 7b | 30m | |||
24 | No name 6 | 6b | 20m |
1.3.2.2. Central Wall 31 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | La spada de fogo | 6c | 20m | |||
2 | Bianca | 6b | ||||
3 | Estremamente facile | 7a+ | ||||
4 | Mucchio selvaggio | 6a | ||||
5 | Salsita por favor | 7b+ | 20m | |||
6 | Simpaty for the devil | 7c | ||||
7 | Nero a metà | 6b | ||||
8 | Panico sopra l'orlo | 6c+ | ||||
9 | Il camino degli zombie | 4 | 10m | |||
10 | Pretta sanna corda | 6a | ||||
11 | Fessura del divorzio | 5b | ||||
12 | ★★ Strega bacheca | 6a | 8m | |||
13 | Performance | 6b+ | ||||
14 | ★ Opera | 7a+ | 8m | |||
15 | Flip flop | 7a+ | ||||
16 | Pole position | 7c | ||||
17 | ★★ Dertzu uzala | 7a+ | 8m | |||
18 | Sardus pater | 7b+ | ||||
19 | Le grazie di grazia | 6c | ||||
20 | Pisci friscu in supramonti | 6b | ||||
21 | S'iscallatoiu | 6b | ||||
22 | Trapanande su monte | 5b | 10m | |||
23 | ★★★ [no name 2] | 5c | ||||
24 | ★★ Chie na ca no | 6a | ||||
25 | Non volarmi via | 5c | 8m | |||
26 | Sogno di una farfalla | 6b | ||||
27 | Lazzari felici | 7a+ | ||||
28 | Piccolo puffo | 6b+ | ||||
29 | Fessura | 6a | 8m | |||
30 | Overdose di calcare | 6b+ | ||||
31 | [no name] | 5c |
1.3.2.3. Australia 32 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | La pelata | 7a | 30m | |||
2 | L'erbolario | 6c+ | 30m | |||
3 | Air Congo | 7b+ | 35m | |||
4 | Padre padrino | 7b | 38m | |||
5 | L'astrofisica | 8a+ | 30m | |||
6 | Proj | 30m | ||||
7 | Proj | 30m | ||||
8 | Jamaica | 7c+ | 35m | |||
9 | Australia | 7b+ | 20m | |||
10 | Proj | 20m | ||||
11 | Maccio Macione | 7c | 25m | |||
12 | Casus belli | 6b | 20m | |||
13 | Mitico Cubin | 6c+ | 20m | |||
14 | S.N | 6b | 20m | |||
15 | ★ Diedrino | 6a | 20m | |||
16 | ★★ Fiesta Argentina | 6a | 20m | |||
17 | ★★ Ottimistica | 7a | 20m | |||
18 | Proj | 20m | ||||
19 | Abuela | 7a+ | 20m | |||
20 | Circolo Supramonte | 6a+ | 20m | |||
21 | Diedro | 6b | 20m | |||
22 | S.N | 6b | 20m | |||
23 | Isantile | 5c | 20m | |||
24 | Ancora una | 6a+ | 20m | |||
25 | S.N | 6a+ | 12m | |||
26 | Yosemite | 7c | 30m | |||
27 | proj | 25m | ||||
28 | Rosa shocking | 20m | ||||
29 | Assiri | 8a | 20m | |||
30 | Proj | 25m | ||||
31 | S.N. | 7a+ | 25m | |||
32 | SN | 6b | 25m |
1.3.2.4. Placca rossa 0 routes in Crag
1.4. Punta Cucuttos 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 40.184478, 9.494470
approach
Park at Sedda ar Baccas. From there walk in one hour, passing Sa Giuntra and Riu Flumineddu.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
L'ultimo dei Mocheni
Set: Pibiri & friends, 2013 | 6a+ | 230m, 14 | |||
2 |
Pitzinnedda
Set: Pibiri & Brokexe, 2014 | 5c | 200m, 5 | |||
3 |
Lughe 'e vida mia
Set: Pibiri & Erriu, 2013 | 6a | 300m, 10 | |||
4 |
Los Compadres
Set: Pibiri & Carcangiu, 2013 | 5c | 330m, 7 | |||
5 |
Tziu Basisi
Set: Oviglia & Mocci, 2005 | 6b+ | 280m, 9 | |||
6 |
Schiavi senza Padrone
Set: Piras & Scema, 2013 | 6a | 370m, 8 | |||
7 |
Terrae Incognitae
Set: Conca, Mele & Amatori, 2013 | 5c | 240m, 5 | |||
8 |
Aiutati che Boi ti aiuta
Set: Domenichelli, Scano & Scema, 1995 | 6b | 540m, 12 | |||
9 |
Viva Viva la Galera
Set: Azalea, Beuchoud & Gogna, 1981 | 6a | 500m, 14 | |||
10 |
Da Mario
Set: Pibiri, Erriu & Carcangiu, 2003 | 6b+ | 270m, 7 |
1.5. Gola di Gorroppu 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.195447, 9.502431
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Hotel Supramonte
Located on the north face of Punta Cucuttos. Set: Rolando Larcher & Roberto Vigiani, 1998 | 8b | 400m, 11 | |||
2 |
Viaje de los Locos
FA: Dani Andrada & Daniel Dulac, 2001 | 8b+ | 7 |
1.6. SA FORADA ‘E SA IDA 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 40.185611, 9.491487
description
Kompakte, schräge Felswand im oberen Teil der Goropuschlucht
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Los Compadres | 5c+ | ||||||
2 |
Lughe ‘e vida mia
Der Weg verliert sich in der 9. SL im Gehgelände | 6a | 420m |