Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mizugaki Yama Toichimen Iwa syoumenheki /十一面岩正面壁 Toitimen ima Mattan Heki /十一面岩末端壁 | |||||
5.10d | Washi
Translates as "Eagle" Multi Pitch Climb | 3, 3 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Haru Lara (2P)
Multi Pitch Climb | 30m, 2 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Astro Dome
Short and steep double crack system. Dry in light rain. | 20m, 2 | |||
5.12b | Airway 2
| 2 | |||
5.12a | Airway
| 2 | |||
5.11c | ★ Twilight
| ||||
5.11a | ★★ Pegasus
Multi Pitch Climb | 2 | |||
5.10d | Fuyu ga Kuru Mae ni
Translates as "Before winter comes" | ||||
5.11b | Nagai o Wakare
Translates as "Long farewell" | ||||
5.9 | Fūrin
Translates as "Wind chime" | 6 | |||
5.10a | Wild Country
| 2 | |||
5.10d | ★★ T & T
| ||||
5.10a | ★★ Chouwa No Gensou
Multi Pitch Climb Translates as "Illusion of harmony" | 5 | |||
5.9 | Girls
| ||||
5.11b | Travel chance
| ||||
5.12c | Nakittsura
なきっつら | ||||
Mizugaki Yama Toichimen Iwa syoumenheki /十一面岩正面壁 Left Wall | |||||
5.10a | ★★★ Mountain Smile
1
5.8
30m
2
5.8
40m
3
5.10a
40m
4
5.6
10m
5
5.8
15m
(Feel free to add the Japanese name if you know it. I am doing all this without consulting the guidebook). Start at a corner 20m left of the left edge of the cave.
Alternatively, from the end of the 3rd pitch you could probably do the last pitch of the other 10a multi, which is the offwidth corner slightly to the left. The descent rap route starts from the end of this (alternate) pitch, so if you did the original finish you need to scramble left (facing in) on the rock bands at the top to find it. Gear: double rack + #4 and #5. | 140m, 5 | |||
Mizugaki Yama Toichimen Iwa syoumenheki /十一面岩正面壁 Hidari Ganpeki | |||||
5.10d | ★ Yama Zoku Tasogare
| 5, 3 | |||
★★★ Berujuēru
One of Japan's iconic multi-pitch free climbing routes. This is a must do route. The 1st, 4th and 5th pitches are the gems of the route. The hardest pitch is the first pitch which starts with a bouldery arete move into the corner under the overhang. Then moving right and around the overhang and onto the 5.11b slab, which will test even the best slab climbing specialists. The chimney in pitch 6 is graded 5.7, however this is not a true indication of the difficulty and should be re-graded as 5.9+~5.10. | 250m, 9, 6 | ||||
Mizugaki Yama Toichimen Iwa syoumenheki /十一面岩正面壁 Deep Wall /奥壁 | |||||
5.9 | Outsider
The first route to this particular summit. Starts at the obvious chimney on the sandy terrace and follows the line of least resistance. Has some bushy/scrambling pitches before merging with Joyful Moment during the last pitch. To descend, scramble roughly west from the summit down boulders. At some point, can turn around and go under the last boulder you climbed down, making a small cave that leads back towards the descent gully. | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Joyful Moment
1
5.9
20m
2
5.1
15m
3
5.9
35m
4
5.8
15m
5
5.7
15m
Start around 30m right from Outsider, at obviously worn left-leading flake/crack.
Double rack + #4 and #5 helpful. To descend, scramble roughly west from the summit down boulders. At some point, can turn around and go under the last boulder you climbed down, making a small cave that leads back towards the descent gully. | 100m, 5 | |||
Mizugaki Yama Toichimen Iwa syoumenheki /十一面岩正面壁 Ko Yasuri Iwa | |||||
5.12a | Jinsei Gekijō
Translates as "Life theater" | 45m, 2, 10 | |||
5.10c | Takoya Dōme
Translates as "Grilled octopus alliance" | 35m | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Souten Hanlo
| 75m, 3, 10 | |||
5.7 | Hana-uta Shōkei
| 30m | |||
Mizugaki Yama Ebisu Iwa | |||||
5.12a | ★★★ Arahito Gami
One of the most impressive climbs at Mizugaki. A true classic and a real test piece for the grade. | 26m, 3 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Ningen Sengen
にんげんせんげん | ||||
Mizugaki Yama Shokuju-Sai Area Shijima Tani | |||||
5.11a | ★ Trouble Chance
Overhanging Off-width Crack. Number Camelot C4 #3 through #6 is essential, along with long trousers and shirt. | 15m | |||
Mizugaki Yama Shokuju-Sai Area Kame Iwa | |||||
5.10a | Kame Iwa crack
| ||||
Mizugaki Yama Fudousawa Saikaryuu Hebi Iwa | |||||
5.10c | ★ Snake Route Left
Translates as Snake Route Left | 20m | |||
5.11a | ★ Snake Route Migi
Translates as Snake Route Right. Watch out for the tree at half height. Any fall above the gear while ascending the twin crack section at the top of the route will result in hitting the tree below. The tree has already accounted for one rushed trip to the emergency room to patch up a big gouge in one climbers buttocks after he fell at the lip of the twin crack section. | 20m | |||
5.10b | ★ Snake Pit
Translates as "Snake Pit" | 20m | |||
Mizugaki Yama Fudō Sawa Byōbu Iwa shōmen kabe | |||||
5.8 | ★ Oshin
F1.5~3.5 | ||||
5.10a | ★ Fudōsawa Aikōkai Route
F0.4~4 Mid size range Route name translates as"Fudosawa lovers party route". | 20m | |||
5.11a | ★★★ JECC Route
F1~4 2-3set use70m | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Kouga
This is a fantastic route that is only marred by the scrappy start. The real climbing starts from the OW size crack (more like a squeeze chimney then an off-width). Put in a number BD #6 and then begin to grunt your way up. If you like wide off-width climbing then give this climb another 1 star. The OW changes to a perfect fist/hand size overhanging crack that continues directly straight up all the way to the anchor. It is best to 2nd the climb to clean the route. BD 0.75 ~6) It would be recommended that you take 2x BD #5 unless you don't mind having long runouts. | 25m | |||
5.10b | ★ Kikuyu Ryokou
1
5.10b
2
5.8
First pitch is a fantastic flake traverse around an arête which finishes at the anchor for Hyakuu no oo. The second pitch starts up in a chimney and then you step out onto the face and then up an off width crack to the top. Beware the top off width crack, if you are not used to off width climbing you will think you have just been sandbagged (don't think it us an easy 5.8) | 2 | |||
Mizugaki Yama Fudō Sawa Iwagoya Roof | |||||
5.12c | ★★★ Archaic Smile
| 17m, 3 | |||
5.13a | ★★★ Garyō Tensei
Translates as ”Finishing touch” | 18m, 4 | |||
5.12a | Wanna Be
| 3 | |||
Mizugaki Yama Fudō Sawa Byōbu Iwa Emperor Tower | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Samu Zamu Route
| 40m, 2 | |||
5.9 | Variation
| 40m | |||
5.9 | Emperor Crack
F3~4, T5~6 | ||||
5.9 | ★ Emperor Jam
| ||||
5.10a | ★★ Yoromeki Crack
| ||||
5.8 | Emperor Traverse
| ||||
5.10b | Shakunage Sami
Rhododendron Guitar 石楠花三味 | ||||
5.10b | ★★ TOP e no Michi
TOPへの道 | ||||
5.12b | Tangerine cloud
タンジェリンクラウド | ||||
5.13b | Urei no ō
愁いの王 "King of melancholy" | ||||
Mizugaki Yama Fudō Sawa Takara Tori Iwa / Senryō Iwa | |||||
5.11a | Tsuyu no Tameiki Route
| 6, 2 | |||
Mizugaki Yama Fudō Sawa Rōkaku iwa | |||||
5.9 | Freedom Spirit
| 25m | |||
5.10a | Outlaw
| 65m, 3 | |||
Mizugaki Yama Fudō Sawa Kamoshika Iwa | |||||
5.8 | Kamoshika Route
Translates as "Antelope Route" Cam sizes F1~4 | 85m | |||
5.11a | Dō Variation
The Same Variation | 40m, 2 | |||
5.9 | Takeda Hishi Route
| 100m, 5 | |||
Mizugaki Yama Fudō Sawa Kamoshika Iwa Okuheki | |||||
5.10b | Seishun' 86
Translates as "Youth '86" | 35m, 2 | |||
5.11d | Black jokes
Three F1 size cams | 5m | |||
5.10b | Everest Nansei Kabe Route
F1~4 | ||||
5.10d | Tensai no shōmei
天才の証明 Translates as "Proof of genius" F1.5~3 | 60m | |||
5.9 | Just Focus
| ||||
5.12b | ★★ Dog Head
This route is on the rock formation known as Dog Head Rock | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Noppo to chibikko
This route is on the rock formation known as 'Penguin Rock' | ||||
5.7 | Seoto Route
Translates as "Sound of a stream route" F1~3 This route is on the rock formation known as 'Seal Rock' | 30m | |||
Mizugaki Yama Fudō Sawa Kāten-jō kabe | |||||
5.10a | Rei tomo rūto
F1.5~4 | 150m, 5 | |||
5.10c | Dakekanba Route
F1~4,K1, L1 | 60m, 2, 3 | |||
5.8 | Kāten No Ana
| 40m, 1 | |||
5.10c | Crater
| 40m, 3 | |||
5.10c | Direct Route
| 40m, 3 | |||
5.10c | Black Sand
| 3 | |||
5.10d | Migi Kante
Translates as "Right Arete Route" | ||||
Mizugaki Yama Kasameri Sawa Akibasho Rock | |||||
5.11c | ★★ Tenshi no kaidan
Translates as "Angels Stairs" | 40m | |||
5.10a | ★★ Nanashi no Gonbee
Translates as "Anonymous" (No Name) | 30m | |||
5.11d | ★★★ Walk On
Start up Nanshi no Gonbee to the small roof, go over the roof and into the thin finger crack above. continue past the tree at half height and continue to follow the obvious crack line. The crack widens as you go from fist to O.W. size. BD C4 #3- 5 is required to protect the top section. | 30m | |||
5.12a | Bunbu wa ryōdō
This line is very gritty and covered with moss and scale, this line will need a fair bit of cleaning before it can be lead again. It looks like a good line and would be worth cleaning up, definitely looks like a one or two star climb. | 30m | |||
5.12a | ★★ Devil Dance
The final top section of the climb was linked and the FFA made by James Frith on 14th October 2013. The protection is good but the final crux section of the route is unprotected and run-out, which can be very daunting. A helmet is considered a good option. This is a must do line for all budding Mizugaki-Yama Crack Gurus. FFA: James Frith, 2013 | 20m | |||
Mizugaki Yama Kasameri Sawa Motsurando | |||||
5.8 | ★ Nanashi no Gonbee
| 15m | |||
5.11a | ★ Nanshi no Roof Crack
Anonymous Roof Crack | 26m | |||
Mizugaki Yama Kanmanboron | |||||
5.12c | ★★★ Iwa no Dendo
Translates as "Rock Hall of Fame”。 A true classic and one of the top 10 climbs at Mizugaki. This is a must do route. | 37m, 2, 6 | |||
5.11d | ★★ Iwatsubame Sanjūrō
hand and fist size crack up to two large flake like features. The crack continues above on thin hands and fingures which leads to the crux at 3/4 height. The crux section is very hard to protect and run out. Plug a small TC 00 at the start (there is really only one place that you can place protection), then fingure jam and layback like a madman up to a "Thank God" edge where you can rest while you get your nerves back again. Great climb with losts of thrill. | 25m, 2, 2 | |||
5.11a | Departure
Very short climb. The crux is at 1/3 height where you need to get a height foot stance to gain the jug hold about 2m below the over hang. | 12m | |||
5.10c | Celebrating Spring
C0.3 ~ 3 sized Cams | 15m | |||
Mizugaki Yama Shichimen Iwa Tousen Iwa | |||||
5.10d | ★★ Nanashi no Gonbee
Add, one more star for the 1st Pitch (once it is cleaned). The second pitch is a classic Off-width test piece and deserves the two stars. | 25m, 2, 3 | |||
Mizugaki Yama Shichimen Iwa Hakusen Mi-ne | |||||
5.10a | 5.10a Corner
lowe section has nice moves but the rock is still a little unstable so be careful | 14m | |||
5.9 | 5.9 Chimney
| 15m | |||
★ 5.10a Off-Width
Good Option for the Second pitch finish. | 6m | ||||
5.9 | 5.9 Wide Crack Corner
One of the Options as the second pitch finish. Up the wide crack corner | ||||
Mizugaki Yama Jigoku Area | |||||
5.11b | ★★★ Canoe
Starts out with 20m of finger cracks and then widens for the last 10m to a slightly flaring large hands /fist size crack to top out. This is a fantastic climb. This is a continuos climb with no real rests the entire length, there are however several great hand jam pockets that are placed at the perfect places to de-pump and place your next bit of gear. This is a must do and a real contender for top 5 best climbs at Mizugaki. | 28m | |||
5.10d | ★★ N-Ji Hang
(Kクラックを探すも、見つけられなかったので、これでアップ。以前は苦しんだものの、今回はサクッと。最初から最後までワイドで、ハング越えがなかなか。後ろの木は使わない方が楽しめます。) FA: Kadoya Takara, 2005 Set: Kadoya Takara, 2005 | 25m | |||
5.11a | ★ B1-Finger
FA: Kadoya Takara, 2005 | 15m | |||
5.10b | Original Pitch 1
FFA: Kadoya Takara, 2005 | 20m | |||
Mizugaki Yama Benten rock | |||||
5.14a | Humble
Trad-route in the northface. More at www.kletterblock.de FA: Wataru Nakajima, Apr 2023 | ||||
Mizugaki Yama Oozura iwa /大面岩 | |||||
5.13a | ★★★ Ixtran eno tabi /イクストランへの旅
| 6, 10 | |||
5.13a | ★★★ Cosmos
| 200m, 7 | |||
Mitsutouge Central (Chūō) Face | |||||
{UIAA} 5+ | ★★ Central (Chuo) Ridge
1
3
2
4+
3
5+
| 60m, 3 | |||
5.12a | ★ Street Performer (Daidou Geinin)
Pitch 1 of Naoto Ridge climbed free | 20m | |||
5.11c | Gababa
Take Care | 12m | |||
V | ★ Vi Ji Rock
1
V
2
IV
| 60m, 2 | |||
5.11d | Yotte Takatte
Pitch 1 of Gyaku V Ji Hang climbed free | 20m | |||
5.11b | Hang Over
Pitch 2 of Gyaku V Ji Hang climbed free | 25m |