Gorf Antar Base Climbs Rock climbing 9 routes in sector

Warning Rock: Abseiling from 3rd to 1st pitch

Mixed Trad

Refer to:

http://compagniedesguidesdechamonix.over-blog.com/article-trente-six-soleils-95890877.html

Gear:

8 Quickdraws, one set of Cams small and middle sizes, 2x 60m Ropes.

Descend:

3 abseils same route, (5th to 4th) - (4th to 1st) - (1st to the Ground).

Overall: Very nice route, with distant but solid bolts and easy-to-place intermediate protections. The difficult moves are well-protected. The wall is South Face exposed, therefore can be done only in winter times/cold days.

Pitch 1 (5b):

- 3 Bolts - Climb vertical on easy terrain (5b) but distanced bolts to a ledge and then left to the anchor (Bolted with maillon).

Pitch 2 (6a+):

- 5 Bolts - Climb above the anchor on a vertical wall, well-protected, possible to integrate, with one tricky move to stand up on a small ledge (6a+), then a traverse to the right, protected with a bolt but exposed move (6a) to the anchor (Two Bolts).

Pitch 3 (6a):

- 4 Bolts - Go up the corner, 6a, (high bolt, can integrate) then traverse on a slab to the left, 6a (easy to place protections) to a belay station (bolted with chain).

Pitch 4 (6b):

- 3 Bolts - Vertical difficult climb (6b) with a bolt very low placed and slippery feet. Then straight up with no bolts but ok protections until another bolt. Then another physical move out on a slab (6a) to the right (anchor with bolts and maillon).

Pitch 5 (6a+/b):

- 3 Bolts - Exposed traverse right with a bolt in the middle and tiny feed and holds (6a+/b), then easier terrain with a bolt and easy to protect. Reach almost the top of the wall going right. Here you can make an intermediate anchor on huge sandclocks or traverse left onto a ledge (huge rope drag) to the last anchor (one bolt and sandclocks with old ropes connecting).

Abseils

1st abseil 40m to the start of the 4th pitch. 2nd abseil, with a bit of drag to the left, to the end of the 1st pitch. 3rd abseil to the ground

Thanks To for the Details {Emanuele Gallone}