★★ Trente Six Soleils 6b

Mixed Trad

Refer to:

http://compagniedesguidesdechamonix.over-blog.com/article-trente-six-soleils-95890877.html

Gear:

8 Quickdraws, one set of Cams small and middle sizes, 2x 60m Ropes.

Descend:

3 abseils same route, (5th to 4th) - (4th to 1st) - (1st to the Ground).

Overall: Very nice route, with distant but solid bolts and easy-to-place intermediate protections. The difficult moves are well-protected. The wall is South Face exposed, therefore can be done only in winter times/cold days.

Pitch 1 (5b):

- 3 Bolts - Climb vertical on easy terrain (5b) but distanced bolts to a ledge and then left to the anchor (Bolted with maillon).

Pitch 2 (6a+):

- 5 Bolts - Climb above the anchor on a vertical wall, well-protected, possible to integrate, with one tricky move to stand up on a small ledge (6a+), then a traverse to the right, protected with a bolt but exposed move (6a) to the anchor (Two Bolts).

Pitch 3 (6a):

- 4 Bolts - Go up the corner, 6a, (high bolt, can integrate) then traverse on a slab to the left, 6a (easy to place protections) to a belay station (bolted with chain).

Pitch 4 (6b):

- 3 Bolts - Vertical difficult climb (6b) with a bolt very low placed and slippery feet. Then straight up with no bolts but ok protections until another bolt. Then another physical move out on a slab (6a) to the right (anchor with bolts and maillon).

Pitch 5 (6a+/b):

- 3 Bolts - Exposed traverse right with a bolt in the middle and tiny feed and holds (6a+/b), then easier terrain with a bolt and easy to protect. Reach almost the top of the wall going right. Here you can make an intermediate anchor on huge sandclocks or traverse left onto a ledge (huge rope drag) to the last anchor (one bolt and sandclocks with old ropes connecting).

Abseils

1st abseil 40m to the start of the 4th pitch. 2nd abseil, with a bit of drag to the left, to the end of the 1st pitch. 3rd abseil to the ground

Thanks To for the Details {Emanuele Gallone}

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.