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Routes in Kazakhstan for selected grade

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Showing all 21 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Almaty Водопад Бутаковка Lower
5c Справа от Трубы

Lots of loose rock. Do not climb this route if there are tourists below

Rightmost route; to ledge past overhang, slightly right till anchor. Bring long draws to avoid rope drag.

Sport
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Comma
5c The Chimney

The obvious chimney. It is on a rock face slightly left (as viewed from the road) of the formation with a cross. Take small as well as large cams.

FA: K. Belotserkovsky, 2020

Trad 22m
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Winnie the Pooh
5c Cristopher Robin
Sport 23m
5c Lovushka dlya slonopotama
Sport 23m
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Visyachiy Kamen (Hanging Rock)
5c Howl

Starts from the ground, in a gulley/chimney between two ledges. Descent not possible with a 50m rope unless you stop on the Navsikaya ledge.

Sport 45m, 2, 17
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Eastern
5c Bayazet

Start at the obvious chimney in the middle of the massif. At the top if this chimney, move left up a loose chimney to the summit. Descend using a trail that passes over the summit.

Trad 25m
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Zamanka
5c Sonya
Sport 10m, 5
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Rebro Zhostkosti (The Rib)
5c Cherep i pokryshka

Start under the roof, and a little to the right. Climb to the roof and then move right into the chimney.

Trad 15m
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Yabloki
5c Vatrushka

Corner/chimney.

Sport 12m, 5
5c Pirozhnoye
Sport 18m, 9
5c Tort
Sport 18m, 10
5c Ne ishi sovu!

Follow the thin racks after the first bolt of Tort. Offset nuts and small cams.

Mixed trad 15m, 1
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Prigorod
5c Shel straha

Start at the crack right of Surpriz #2 and follow the crack to the anchors. Takes cams up to BD #5

Trad 13m
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Gorod
{US} FR:5c Shel s pritsami

Start in the dihedral just left of Sila bezmolviya. First pitch follows dihedral to the bottom of the slab. Second pitch continues up the slab to the top of the ridge.

Trad 2
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Bastion
5c - 6a Sleva ot bastiona

The loose crack left of the bolted routes. An old bolt protects the lower section. Spike or gear belay at the ridge. It is wise for the belayer to shelter under the wall on the right because of loose rock. Takes large cams.

Mixed trad 30m, 1
5c Shishki

The wide crack just right of Iskry. Cams to #4. Chain for descent.

Trad 18m
5c Vremya kolokolchikov

Steep corner and crack. Can be climbed on gear.

Sport 15m, 6
5c Lubka

Shared anchors with Nadka

Sport 15m, 6
Bektau-Ata Mavzoleyniy
5c Detskaya Panicheskaya

Could be done sans rope as a layback boulder problem.

Unknown 5m
Усть-Каменого́рск Дальний
5c - 6a выбраковка Sport 12m, 6
5c - 6a круглый треугольник Sport 16m, 7

Showing all 21 routes.

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