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Routes in Kyrgyzstan for selected grade

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Showing all 8 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Bishkek Chon Kurchak Gorge Sector 1
6b Bug's Delight

Description [Edit] Lovely crack on the left wall next to Al Moudi (Pj's Crew graffiti). Difficult but exciting start makes way for easier ground after several metres, continue to follow the centre of the wall (deviating left or right lowers the grade) and finish on the same belay station as Men in Black.

Trad 18m
6b Al Moudi Unknown 15m
Kel Suu Orget's Nose
{UK} HVS UKT:5b Trip'N

Pitch 1 - Start at the bottom of a faint crack below an obvious cave. Stay to the right of the cave and follow crack with care as little gear and loose rock for the first 10 metres. Continue onto a slab and unto easier ground for 30 metres until a large flat ledge with nut and cam belay below a small wall. 50m

Pitch 2 -  Move up to the left side of the wall following a faint crack onto a ledge with good protection. Afterwards move onto a small slab section and into a depression, continue up the face and with a tricky step onto another slab section. Nut and cam belay at the base of a large wide crack on the left side of the face. 50m

Pitch 3 - Work your way up the crack/gully and scramble up easier ground for 30m on the left of the face until a large crack is reached with nut and cam belay. 35m

Pitch 4 - Move right onto the face climbing carefully up loose rock onto more stable but poorly protected ground. Continue for 15m up on top of the face and venture right towards a large niche in the rock below an orange wall. 25m

Pitch 5 - Move above or around the large block to the right of the niche (be aware of rope drag for this section), continue up the loose slab and through a small crack. From the crack make an airy traverse rightwards and up a gully with some lovely bridging moves. Final scramble to the top of the tower. 50-55m

Descent on the right hand side via a series of steep gullies and crack systems.

FA: Matt Harper & Paul Mougenot, 6 Aug 2021

Trad 200m, 5
Karavshin Ak-Suu Ortotyubek
6b La Bolla
1 6a 60m
2 6a 50m
3 6b 40m
4 5+ 30m
5 6a 50m

FA: 2014

Trad 230m
Karavshin Ak-Suu Pamir Pyramid
6b Lazy lizzard

FA: krister jonsson & Anna Backlund

Trad 650m, 14
Karavshin Ak-Suu Odessa
6b Nazarova

The SE ridge & arete. The approach on the glacier between Odessa and LOMO is somewhat serious (go early; stick to the Odessa side)

Trad 880m, 15
{UIAA} 7 Klenova
Trad 1200m, 44
{UIAA} 7 Odintsova
Trad 1100m, 58

Showing all 8 routes.

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