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Routes in Malawi

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Showing all 11 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Nathenje Nathenje Quarry
5.8 Flake Zero

Place protection starting from the beginning of the crack and join Flake on the right.

Can be lowered off the Flake anchor

FA: Ed Nhlane, 19 Mar 2023

Trad 6m
5.9 Flake

Leftmost route at the crag, climbing follows the huge flake past 3 bolts to the anchor. Crux is at the beginning of the climb at bolt 1

FA: Tyler Algeo, 8 Mar 2019

Sport 6m, 3
5.10a Face

Face climb with a boulder problem at the crux at bolt 2 which demands a stretchy lift move on the left or a heel hook to get to the edge (near the skewed white streak) and bump to the better hold. Also possible to go up using the tiny two finger crimp/pocket.

FA: Tyler Algeo, 12 Mar 2019

Sport 6m, 3
5.6 Chiyambi

Chiyambi means "The Beginning". Descriptive since route is good for beginners and often used to get people into the sport.

Top rope
5.10b Zoona ("It is True")

Start either directly below bolt 1 or slight on the right beneath the flake and layback your way with powerful moves to the first crux at bolt 1. Climb past bolts 2 and 3 along the fissure line to get an unobvious position to clip at the crux on bolt 4 (holds are reachy). Stem wide to prop up to the anchors.

Warning: Loose rocks

FA: Tyler Algeo, 9 Apr 2019

Sport 14m, 4
5.10b Nditha ("I Can")

One of the two quintessential climbs at Nathenje (besides Zoona "It is True"). Endurance is required

Maint: Ed Nhlane, 24 Jul 2022

FFA: Ed Nhlane, 14 Aug 2022

Sport 16m, 8
5.11d Mphatso

Route goes up the orange streak part in the middle section of the crag to the right of Nditha. Climb past 2 bolts with powerful moves to reach at the crux just after the under-clings. Dynamic move to go past the crux to the side-pull then gets less strenuous.

FA: Viktor Pot, 25 Jun 2023

Sport 15m, 7
5.11a Nsima

Climb starts on top of the ledge to clip at bolt 1, then up on the right to stem up past bolts 2-4. Crux is slab section between bolts 7 and 8

FA: Viktor Pot, 11 Jun 2023

Sport 14m, 8
5.12b Osafooka! ("Never Give Up!")

Osafooka ("Never Giver Up!") is a true test. Climb meant to start slightly on the left beneath bolt 1, but a variation exists to also start from the ledge. The bottom climb has bad holds which progressively get worse getting to the crux at bolt 3. Then holds become sloping crimps.

FA: Scott Pagel

Maint: Ed Nhlane, Jul 2022

Sport 15m, 5
5.6 Abuluzi ("The Lizards")

Follows an obvious connection of cracks at the corner of the last section to the right. The climb goes up the stack of boulders and ends at a belay on a tree on top.

Descent by walking off from the top of the hill.

Caution: Being an old quarry, some sections may not be as solid as they appear to take protection. Place protection with care.

FA: Ed Nhlane & Aka Lichtner, 14 Apr

Trad 11m
5.10c Wrestling with Rock

A boulder start leads you to a couple of left hand pinches, then mantle up to the shelf leading to the crux at the bulge at bolt 3 into a giant flake under-cling. Counterpressure moves to move past the crux past bolts 4 and 5 to anchor.

FFA: Ed Nhlane, 24 Jul 2022

Sport 11m, 5

Showing all 11 routes.

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