Routes in Uganda

Pitch 1: the hidden tnt hole 18m 4 bolt 5b Pitch 2: the balcony 30m (traverse most) 5 bolt 4a then 5b at the end. Perfect to learn multy pitch

Tooth Less Variante

Rasta Popoulos variante

This is the harder, sit start variation of the V5 Termite Be Your Last Step. This climb is a project and has yet to be sent.

Very sharp slab with a slightly positive incline. Incredibly small holds and bad footholds. All side pulls to the right of the holds are out-of-bounds, see photo below.

Start sitting on the small rock beneath the boulder and pull up off the ground on the left-hand side pull and the right-hand three-finger sloper, as shown in the beta photo.

First move is a big, right hand throw to a small crimp (Crux move). Then left hand to the small, sharp crimp above your right hand, chalked intermediates can be seen in the photo. Then right hand to the wide sloper pinch directly above and bring your feet up. Right foot high, stand up, reach for the left hand side pull and lean back on it. Crank in with the left and find a good, wide sloper above and then top.

This is the easier, stand start variation of the V7 Termite Be Your Last Breath.

Very sharp slab with a slightly positive incline. Incredibly small holds and bad footholds. All side pulls to the right of the holds are out-of-bounds, see photo.

Start standing on the small rock beneath the boulder and pull up off the ground on the left-hand side pull and the right-hand crimp, as shown in the beta photo.

First move is left hand to the small, sharp crimp above your right hand, chalked intermediates can be seen in the photo. Then right hand to the wide sloper pinch directly above and bring your feet up. Right foot high, stand up, reach for the left hand side pull and lean back on it. Crank in with the left and find a good, wide sloper above and then top.

Easy, stand start, warm-up route on great pockets and abundant footholds, should be mandatory climbing for all who visit Luwazi.

Start with the tree a meter or two to your left. Use the jugs to get off the ground. Then, step right onto the small ledge. From there, just friction climb to the top. Use the tree to descend.

Go straight up the slabs avoid using the seems on the left.

After an assisted start with a bamboo ladder, follow the easy arete to the chain.

To access the top via the normal route, you must move through then up the prayer crack, and then squeeze out the Thin Man's Crack to the ledge. If the squeeze is too tight, use the chimney. After exiting the crack onto the ledge, turn left and scramble up the large boulder. You'll find two belay chains up there for the routes on the southwest. Then, go back down the boulder towards the prayer crack and move towards the north side of the rock where you'll find a short but exciting little lead route bolted to help you to the very top of Kkungu Rock. Approximately 9m and 5 clips (20). Enjoy the view and wave to the school children.

This route shares the chain belay with Normal Route. It is a long and very challenging route that should be developed for sport climbing at some point.

Move through the prayer crack pictured. On prayer days, be respectful and wait your turn. At the far end of the crack, squeeze out to the top or use the chimney to the exit on the ledge. From the ledge, you can access the Normal Route and a number of the top rope chains. Alternatively, you can access the top via the easier Northeast corner routes, however, as these are not yet bolted for lead climbing, the Normal Route is the only protected way to the top.

From the prayer crack, there are a variety of chimney routes to the top. The crack is quite wide, but narrow enough to chimney in a few places. Protection is either poor or non-existent, so set a top rope and enjoy! Nothing in the prayer crack has been bolted as of Feb 2018.

Follow the clips along the far end of the face and avoid the gulley.

This route was graded without the use of the tree. Top rope access is only possible by scrambling up the end of this large boulder.

A good beginner/learner route for lead climbing. Sling the tree for extra pro if needed.

Go up the chimney. Rock over onto the main wall. Straight up to the chain. Bolted for top rope only.

You can find the boulder just a few minutes away from "Top of the Rock". Head toward the volleyball courts and you'll see it on your left.

Rap down to the start as there is no trail to the base of this crag. This goes for all routes at Kilembe.

Oreochromis Niloticus is a few meters to the left. The two routes join part way up. Crux is near the bottom of this one.

Crux near the bottom.

The lowest section of the crag and farthest left when facing the rock.

This is the hardest route at the crag. Still no free ascent. Climbers have done this via TR or not at all.

Can use gear and bolts on the way up.

Must rap into this one, like most routes at this crat. Mostly blocky crack climbing. Well protected most of the way. Good trad gear placement practice. Only the anchor itself is bolted.

A good warm up route.