Routes in Middle East for selected grade

Marmite is a wonderful yet deceiving traditional route at packs a sustained punch. Start on light colored rock with a run out before finding your first good gear placements. Follow a slightly over hanging right trending crack that eventually will curve back to the left side yet offer little relief in terms of pump in your forearms. Breathe a sigh of relief when you get to the gray rock and shake out before clipping the anchor shared with Noel Baba.

Location Marmite is located 3 meters right of a large pine tree at the base of the cliff above the picnic area gazebos. Follow a prominent crack on this portion of cliff.

Protection Traditional gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor

Hamsi is another wonderful sport route that starts up a black streak of rock on magnificent holds. Resist the urge to rest off route in the obvious alcove in order to keep the grade true. Continue on tan colored rock that is slightly overhanging and offers a wonderful face climbing sequence. Clip the anchor that is clearly visible from the ground and enjoy is spectacular view.

Location Hamsi is located 8 meters right of a large pine tree at the base of the cliff above the picnic area gazebos.

Protection 9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Horon is a wonderful route with an amazing sequence of overhanging rock that is a bit more challenging then it's neighboring routes at this sector. Start on a couple buckets before reaching a technical section of light colored rock. Pull a bulge and clip high before shaking out at a good rest. Now the steep climbing gets fun with sloppers that present and incredible sequence of quality moves that will bring you to the anchor that is clearly visible from the ground

Location Horon located 26 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the crag. Look for an obvious line of bolts directly underneath a triangular shaped section of light colored, overhanging rock.

Protection 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Gülali is a long and wonderful route that starts on light colored rock and follows the arete for 10 meters. Continue up dark rock on excellent face climbing that will keep you on your toes. Finish at an anchor that is shared with Akçaabat Helvası.

Location Gülali located 30 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the crag. Look for an obvious line of bolts to the right of a triangular shaped section of light colored, overhanging rock and stay left of the prominent inside corner crack feature.

Protection 16 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Karaşahin is one move wonder of a sport climb. Start on a fragile rock to a bolt in the roof. Pull a difficult overhanging sequence to gain access to the vertical face beyond. Enjoy jugs as you follow the dark streak of rock to a left trending crack and on to the anchor that is out of sight from the base of the route.

Location Karaşahin is located on the right side of the sector. Look for a shiny bolt in an overhanging section of wall 3 meters off the ground.

Protection 12 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Pulera is the first route in this sector and is located on the farthest left of the cliff.

Karadeniz extension is a fun route that begins with a slightly overhanging white section of rock. Go on to the orange face for an excellent sequence of vertical moves with excellent slopers, mixed with positive holds. After passing an intermediate anchor, continue up dark rock into a series of incredible moves capped by a small roof. More excellent climbing will bring you to the anchor beyond the lip.

Haçkaspor extension is a fun face climb that starts on large holds on dark rock. This will give way too small holds on the lighter colored face before reaching a small roof. Pull super enjoyable moves over the lip on a unique crack past an intermediate anchor located in the dark rock above the flake. Continue on vertical terrain with thin holds and incredible sequences to reach a unique groove. Shake out with the perfect knee bar if you can figure out how to get into position or push straight on through to the anchor located at the top of the good rock.

Akdeniz is a wonderful 20 meter long route that starts next to the approach trail. Climb past two bolts on moderate terrain before getting onto the vertical face. Excellent features that all slope left will lead you to a technical face of small holds and a steep pumpy finish at the anchor.

Location Akdeniz is located 3 meters right of the prominent flared chimney/gully on the right side of the sector.

Protection 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Dance Academy is the longest overhang route in this sector. It has relatively good hands at 2/3 beginning of the route, after that, there is an area for a good rest and later going up with a small chimney. At last, face climb to a vertical area to the anchor.

Papy Hulk is a wonderful long and pumpy sport route. Start with steep moves on somewhat fragile white rock protected by glue in hangers to a small alcove 5 meters off the ground. Follow good holds on a sustained, overhanging wall as you enjoy quality move after move. The vertical climbing through the upper section will keep you on your toes all the way to the anchor.

Location Papy Hulk is located on the left side of the sector. Look for a line of glue and bolts that go directly up the face. This route shares a start with a right trending crack that forms the traditional line of Viva Saper.

Protection 14 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Viva Saper a traditional route with 40 meters long. It has a relatively oblique ascent along with slobe crack.

Mamy Super Nova is one of the finest lines in the area. Start on top of a boulder at the base of the route and pull a no feet roof maneuver that is well protected by a bolt. If you want to practice your dry tooling skills this is a perfect spot for a figure 4 Continue up vertical climbing and pull over a small bulge before shaking out and getting ready for the business portion of the route. Steep moves on quality holds will give your forearms a good workout. Trend left as the well placed glue-in bolts lead you through it nice technical section of face climbing high on the face. A few more cruiser moves will bring you to the anchor located near the top of the cliff.

Location Mamy Super Nova is located in the middle of the sector. Start beneath a small roof located 4 meters left of the triangular block protruding from the ground that is used as the starting stands for Sophia Ana.

Protection 15 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Evhamlı is a spectacular route that starts up a flared juggy crack corner reaching a bulge 8 meters off the ground. Scramble up some moderate slab before getting onto a hard, technical face. Numerous technical sequences will bring you to a magnificent steep finish with great moves through the overhang beneath the anchor. Evhamlı is located 2 meters right of a medium-sized pine tree growing at the base of the cliff. The belay area is quite steep and will give your calves work out.

Set: Süleyman Vardal 2019

The route has a common start with Mümin-1 and separating from each other at the roof entrance continues slightly to the right and upwards.

Şerefe is a fun steep arete route with a short pumpy crux. Start with a clip from the ground to protect a couple of steep moves at the beginning of the route. Trend left to the prominent arete and fire off a couple steep moves to reach a good rest. Trend right to step over the roof or enjoy an unnecessary yet incredibly fun leg hooking move on the jug rail at the lip to feel like a rockstar. Two meters above the overhang you will arrive at the anchor.

5 Günde starts from a grassy ledge before scrambling up a ramp to a small roof above the second bolt. Pull a technical sequence of vertical limestone face climbing. The high-quality features and movements continue all the way to the top of this glorious route. The anchor is located just out of sight from the belay area.

Oroperi starts up a nice hand crack on low angle rock to a small roof located 4 meters up the route. Continue on incredible pockrts and slopers with great friction to a small overhang halfway up with climb. Pull a tricky sequence over two separate bulges that will access an anchor that is just out of sight from the belay area.

Positive Pastimes is a wonderful route that has a steep start just right of a to meter tall flared crack. Follow pumpy gray limestone pockets that eventually merge with another flared crack and turn into a inside corner. At the upper section you will break left onto the steep to slightly overhanging face before encountering easy moves to an anchor located at the ledge beyond the bulge.

Positive Pastimes named after the developer tested for covid-19 and was required to stay in Turkey, resulting in the creation of a number of routes at this sector.

Location Positive Pastimes is located 11 meters left of the slightly overhanging car sized boulder next to the approach trail that marks the right side of the sector.

Buzbağ is an excellent route that starts on a pocketed gray limestone that is common for the area. The upper half of the route follows interesting crack features to a ledge where you will clip the anchor that is clearly visible from the ground.

Buzbağ was named in honour of a bag of boxed wine that brought joy to the first ascent party.

Location Buzbağ is located 9 meters left of the slightly overhanging car sized boulder next to the approach trail that marks the right side of the sector.

High first bolt

Used to be 6c+, downgraded in v15 edition of the official guide.

Shares route with Thunderbolt (left finish)

Shares route with Thunderbolt (right finish)

L1:25m / ?bolts 5b

L2:40m/ ?bolts (walk off only, no abseil) 6b+

Shares first two bolts with Left Wing

Starts above. Approach by Via di Servizio

The North Face of Mashanig

#1 17, 55m Up the bushy chimney stepping right onto a ledge and cruxy slab to belay. #2 15, 35m Wandering. Zig zag between ledgelets following balancy line of least resistance trending left of ominous rooves above. #3. 21, 20m. Up the scrub, right of overhanging squeeze chimney to layback sequence (crux) then left to a semi-hanging belay. #4 15, 30m Traverse left and up to base of overhanging offwidth on R. #5, 18, 20m. Offwidth brings you to base of final headwall riven by steep flaring cracks. #6 13, Traverse left and up gully line above col. #7-12, Up to grade 15. South-facing corner of east ridge to summit. A squeeze chimney, a few tricky mantles and ledge climbing lead to victory.