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Pakistan Guide

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 42
  • Ascents: 228
  • Aka: ‏پاکستان‎

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Pakistan 121 routes in Region

Summary:
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Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.351369, 69.459954

1.1. DHA 2 Climbing Wall. 0 routes in Gym

summary

A 32 feet high open air climbing wall to keep yourself in practice.

description

Its a 32ft high wall initially made for recreation for kids but has tougher routes on its sides going upto 6a+. I recently added hangers for lead climbing on the right hand side green route. You'll need three quickdraws for the hangers and 2 slings and carabiners for the top anchor to feed it through the permanently installed rope runner on top.

approach

As this is a wall in a park. The approach is simple from the parking area. 1 minute walk from parking

1.2. Islamabad Capital Territory (ICT) 87 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 33.688921, 73.044764

summary

A series of great limestone crags with a continued potential for establishing new areas to climb in.

approach

While there are no official access issues for any of the crag surrounding Islamabad, some of the crags may have natural access issues in the form of overgrown trails due to lack of traffic on the trails leading to the rock. Expect to bushwhack. Covered shoes and clothes are recommended for most approaches.

ethic

The predominant ethic is sports climbing. The fixed gear is not replaced frequently. Inspect as you climb and please do not use fixed gear to top rope. Only use it to lower so that it's life is maximized.

history

Islamabad has a vibrant climbing scene made up of members of the local climbing community interspersed with members of the expatriate diplomatic community. The history of climbing in Islamabad is both uplifting and tinged with sadness. Whilst climbers have frequented the cliffs around Islamabad for decades the current sport climbing scene really took off in 2010 when visiting UK climber John Arran teamed up with the local climbing elite who had been honing their skills at the recently opened Ibex climbing centre. John established a number of classic climbs in the Margallah Hills including Puzzled Monkey (6c+) and Action Direction (7b+), both at Jungle Rocks. John was instrumental in establishing a broad range of climbs for local and expatriate climbers alike to enjoy and develop their skills. Sadly shortly after Johns departure, two of his proteges and pillars of the local climbing scene; Imran Junaidi and Usman Tariq went missing along with Kuram Shehzad on Sarwali Mountain in Kashmir. In 2015, Japanese climber Junya Matsuura took up where John left off, continuing the development of a number of new areas in the Margallah Hills, including the very steep Saffa Wall and the excellent Mastadon. Like John, Junya, a solid 8a climber, put many hours into mentoring the local climbing community and established many climbs in the 6a range as well as a number of harder classics such as the stunning Retribution (7b+) at Mastadon. Tragically Junya fell ill and died whilst returning from a climbing trip in early 2018. He will be remembered with great fondness by the Islamabad climbing community as a talented, kind and humble man. For a recent history of rock climbing in Islamabad read John Arran's 2011 article 'Islamabad Cragging' which can be found on the UK Climbing website; www.ukclimbing.com.

1.2.1. Margallah Hills 82 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 33.737516, 73.017316

summary

A series of limestone crags overlooking the city of Islamabad.

description

A large portion of the routes were added through the guide published by John Arran and co but it is outdated on some aspects. Newer routes have been added and crags have been opened since. Certain crags such as Hidden Rock, Said pur View are hardly visted and as such, trails have disappeared and routes may have vegetation growing on them.

https://www.cda.gov.pk/about_islamabad/rock-climbing/default.asp

Please note that many of these routes have spinner bolts. Take a wrench whenever you get out to the crag here too tighten em'! Someone's gotta do it. Please make sure to pick up all trash left behind by any party.

Climbing in Margalla is a gift not many cities have on this planet and it's our duty as climbers to cherish it.

ethic

Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here!

1.2.2. Shahdra 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 33.774457, 73.174100

summary

Easy to reach, in a scenic valley with a nice stream.

description

A limestone crag with 5 routes established on it from 5a to 6c(?). Four routes on the north face, one on the east. 8 - 12 meters height.

approach

Follow Murree road towards east from Islamabad. 4.3 kms after the junction with Kashmir highway take a left turn (road sign showing Shahdra). Drive 5.5 kms and after a sharp left turn (before you exit the valley towards north) you will find the crag, right at the road. You may also park here.

1.2.3. Ibex 0 routes in Crag

summary

Islamabad's first and best climbing wall.

1.3. Hunza Valley 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 36.324213, 74.690042

summary

Great area with untapped boulders

description

One of the most famous tourist destination in Pakistan

1.3.1. Eagle's Nest 1 route in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 36.324213, 74.690042

summary

Great area with untapped boulders

description

A famous tourist spot, yet a virgin ground to the wider bouldering community

approach

Could get there by car, then another 5 min walk to the area

where to stay

Eagle's Nest Hotel

1.4. Karakorum 14 routes in Region

Summary:
Alpine climbing, Aid climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 35.678833, 76.178152

1.4.1. Muztagh Tower 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 35.824761, 76.360543

description

Muztagh Tower (Urdu: موز تاغ ٹاور‎), also: Mustagh Tower; Muztagh: ice tower), is a 7273m high mountain in the Baltoro Muztagh, part of the Karakoram range in Baltistan on the border of the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan and the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region of China. It stands between the basins of the Baltoro and Sarpo Laggo glaciers. Source Wikipedia

1.4.2. Trango Towers 7 routes in Region

Summary:
Alpine climbing, Aid climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 35.768037, 76.189313

1.4.3. Link Sar 0 routes in Crag

summary

The Link Sar is a 7041 m high mountain in Gilgit-Baltistan in Pakistan.

history

In the summer of 2015, Andy Houseman and Jon Griffith failed in their attempt to climb the Link Sar. However, on 18 August they reached the 6938 m high side summit Link Sar West.

On August 6th 2019 a team of Americans have made the first ascent. The team included Steve Swenson, Chris Wright, Graham Zimmerman and Mark Richey.

1.4.4. K6 0 routes in Crag

1.4.5. K7 0 routes in Crag

1.4.6. Latok Group 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 35.896296, 75.877479

description

The Latok (Urdu: لیٹوک‎) group is a small cluster of dramatic rock peaks in the Panmah Muztagh, part of the central Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. They lie just to the east of the Ogre group, dominated by Baintha Brakk. To the immediate south of the Latok group lies the Baintha Lukpar Glacier, a small tributary of the Biafo Glacier, one of the main glaciers of the Karakoram. On the north side of the group lies the Choktoi Glacier. Source wikipedia

1.4.7. Baintha Brakk Group 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 35.929328, 75.748527

1.5. Shigar Valley 19 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 35.473755, 75.651888

summary

The Shigar Valley is in Gilgit Baltistan in northern Pakistan. It stretches from Skardu to Askole and is the gateway to the high mountains of the Karakoram.

1.5.1. Ammacha Kharidong 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 35.423462, 75.744458

summary

Located over the Shigar Fort in Daskoor, this climbing area offers all kind of climbing and the potential is huge around.

description

A new climbing area in the Shigar valley. The village also has a small climbing wall that was built as part of the project Climbing for a Reason (see history).

approach

Start at (35.4224432, 75.7442676) Follow the water channel to: (35.4223918, 75.7437828) and reach the crag at: (35.4234560, 75.7432973)

history

Developed as part of a Climbing for a reason project, the area was developed as a training place for young Muslims women who wanted to learn this discipline in August 2021.

As part of the project, the village has now their own boulder gym to train, more than 20 new sport climbing routes and all the necessary equipment to practice them.

This project is in honor of the late Juan Pablo Mohr who died in last K2 winter expedition in 2021.

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