Vietnam Guide

Summary:

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Seasonality

Sport climbing, Deep water soloing and other styles

Lat / Long: 15.398262, 106.619783

description

Vietnam is a land of mountains, just go out of cities, u will see mountains or rocks, it becomes higher and higher, bigger and bigger, from the North to the South, everywhere, from giant mountain ranges in Hà Giang, Lào Cai far from North point, as Fansipan summit, the roof of Indochina peninsula then historical Trường Sơn ranges in the middle of our country, to many bouldering block areas along 1800km paradise coast. And many many more tropical mountain landscapes that we can come, discover and climb there. After more than 10 years developing and discovering, almost by local foreigners, thanks to them, we have some climbing areas cross our country. We have such a beautiful island gem, Cát Bà island surrounding by 1 of 7 natural wonders in the world, Hạ Long Bay with unlimited deep water solo. More to the North, we have incredible series of valleys with very high quality of limestone, the number of crags can be bolted here seems to be like endless and many hidden areas are still waiting for finding and touching by who love it. This is Hữu Lũng, climbing here is great, it's only more than 10 crags up to now, comparing with other areas in the world, it's not so big, but 10 crags, 10 different characters, tufa style, overhang knee bar style, vertical finger pocket and slab crimp technique style. Hữu Lũng is taken care by some local climbers and developers who really love it so much, they always watch out the quality of the bolts by years and maintain it, always think about put the grade for all the routes correctly as much as possible, and still aim to develop more harder routes for the community every years. And remember, Hữu Lũng is just 1 of hundreds or thousands areas can be developed for climbing in Vietnam. We just hope by the time, people in Vietnam will realize how the nature beautiful is when we really connect with it by all our mental and physically, because the rock in Vietnam is deserved and people in Vietnam are deserved to be one and show how we are to the world by climbing.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 21.602186, 106.360614

summary

Remote karst valley located at the footstep of the Northeast Mountain range, the Đông Bắc, 100km from Hanoi in rural and traditional area.

description

Quality sport routes dispatched on 13 crags within a radius of 5km. Most represented grades are in a solid 6b-7c range. Assorted limestone climbing including tufas, huecos, slopers and others delicacies on vertical and steep profiles. All equipped in Inox 316.

access issues

Most of the cliffs are located in private orchards. Be careful of crops, especially custard apple trees. Most landlords might ask for access fees, usually VND 20,000-25,000

approach

About 2 hours from Hanoi by motorbike or private car. By public bus, about 4 hours: go to Gia Lam station to go to Lang Son. Get down at Yen Vuong to get a taxi to Yen Thinh commune. This requires Vietnamese communication skills as no one speaks English.

where to stay

Mão's Homestay and Duc's bungalows, located from 1 to 5km from the crags, have been the main climbers' meeting point. They are community-based projects created and funded by VietClimb in 2018 and 2020.

ethic

All local access with orchards' owners, Commune, District and Province authorities arranged by VietClimb. Contact them to inquire about the latest updates and get a briefing.

history

Discovered, developed and bolted by VietClimb.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 21.604462, 106.348980

description

Distance from Mao's Homestay : 5 km.

approach

25k dongs/person

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 21.603890, 106.349603

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 21.609389, 106.346651

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 21.568613, 106.410502

description

The Arch is an amazing natural phenomenon with a few great climbs. Due to the approach better take a full day.

approach

45min hike uphill on loose clay underground. Caution if wet, it will be extremely slippery. Start hiking at the base of two ziplines near the road. Hike uphill and keep right as much as possible. You'll pass a hut on the way to the back entrance of the Arch. Be careful of your surroundings as you're hiking trough private orchards.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 21.625699, 106.347490

approach

15k dongs/person

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 21.618261, 106.347571

description

Distinctive tower emerging from rice field in the middle of Yên Thịnh village. Sustained and technical routes on vertical face offering crimpy holds and small tufas.

approach

Distance from Mao's Homestay : 3km. From Làng hamlet, go West to Diễn hamlet, pass the market, the crag is located a few hundred meters further on the left. Follow the fence surrounding the peak.

descent notes

Access fees: VND 15,000 / day (USD 0.6) when land owner come on-site. Prepare exact change.

You may meet a very chatty and possibly mentally unsound young local lady. She / her family is the land owner. Pay her the access fee to avoid your climbing shoes being flung down the hill or other such delights.

history

Equipped by Benjamin Bolnot, Jonas Bertoux, Kevin Resve, Florent Vizzier.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 21.632302, 106.372646

approach

Distance from Mao's Homestay : 600 meters.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 21.605338, 106.370882

description

Massive 80m tower located in a seclude valley visited by buffaloes. Long and steep routes involving various typical limestone such as musical tufas and rocking drop-knees.

approach

Distance from Mao's Homestay : 2km. From Làng hamlet, go South to Đồng Áng hamlet and traverse it. Go deeper, the tower is on the right.

descent notes

Access fees: free

history

Development has started in 2018, combined effort of climbers from different provinces of Vietnam, with Baptiste du Chaffaut (Saigon), Jean Verly, Trang Bui, Elena Saiganova (Hanoi) and Dave Mc Bride (Cat Ba). The cliff was completed in 2019 by Kevin Resve, Jonas Bertoux, Jonathan Isbecque, Josh Stephenson and Jean Verly

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 21.615298, 106.375735

description

Right side features steep and compact rock offering hard & sustained lines with rare & tiny holds. Central part is made of alveolus & slopers on steep ground. Alpine atmosphere defines the left side with long routes on fragile rock.

approach

Distance from Mao's Homestay : 2km. From Làng hamlet, go South to Đồng Áng hamlet. At the "Bac Thay" ("Shaman") inscription painted on the wall, turn left, cross a bamboo bridge then head to the massive grey and orange wall.

descent notes

Access fees: VND 20,000 / day (USD 0.8), land owner come on-site.

history

Three years later, Kevin Resve & Jonas Bertoux, who met first at the Conche and l'Ile Noire in 2015-2016, are back with Josh Stephenson and Jean Verly to equip tougher & harder routes on a wild face requiring serious rope access and sky hook skills.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 21.613945, 106.324361

description

Dragon Wall is a massive wall which only the central part has been equipped in March 2019 and late 2019.

approach

Distance from Mao's Homestay : 5 km. From Làng hamlet, pass la Conche and l'Ile noire. At the electric transformer, turn right to get to the reservoir, then keep going toward a closed valley located West. At the tower with a crack, turn right.

history

First explored with Jean Kanapa, a familiar face among French climbing instructors as head of training of Rhone-Alpes CREPS, he's also a talented archivist having put together a documentary about bolting History in the 90's in France.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 21.614575, 106.367099

description

Massive cliff folding out like a karst origami located in a secluded valley. Right section's routes mostly follow multiple tufas heading up to the top. Central section is made of diversified routes following the weak lines of the cliff. Left section proposes uncommon climbing in the area, ie very fingery and bouldery climbing on a vertical and blank wall.

approach

From the village main road, turn South (North is going to Mao's homestay) in direction of WoofStuck and Passe-Muraille. At the intersection bringing you to Duc's bungalows, go West to cross a little hamlet and then rice field (500 meters). You will see a goat track winding up a hill with several white headstones near the base. Climb up a hill (5 minutes) to arrive in a secondary valley hosting goats, mandarin trees and lumberjacks.

history

Crag set in January 2021 by VietClimb. Bolted by T. Bui, M. Doco, Le Ngoc S. I. Rock, B. Tellier, T. Vantalon, J. Verly

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 21.608391, 106.312841

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 21.624391, 106.374179

description

Huge cave with an amazing view.

approach

Park your motorbike close to the rice paddy and then walk along the small channel until you see the big cave. Then walk up to the cave through the custard apple trees.

history

Discovered and developed by VietClimb.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 21.609977, 106.309699

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 21.614697, 106.322705

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.785352, 106.993275

summary

The Ha Long Bay region of Vietnam, a sweep of water from which approximately 1,600 limestone karst islands soar, lies in the Gulf of Tonkin just off Vietnam’s northern coastline and is part of the UNESCO world natural heritage. These craggy islands boast a stunning mix of rock blanketed in jungle and steep, exposed faces. Although not all of these walls contain solid rock, there is an overwhelming abundance of magnificent climbable faces. Many of the walls that rise directly from the water are ideal for Deep Water Solo (DWS). Other faces stand over uninhabited sandy beaches, making for a unique and isolated sport climbing paradise. Cat Ba Island also boasts some amazing limestone cliffs to behold and experience.

description

There are more than 120 sport climbing routes on 13 crags, from 4a to 8a on Cat Ba Island and the beaches of Ha Long Bay. More than 230 deep water solo lines on 24 cliffs, from 4a to 7c+ wait for you in the bay, all in a day trip distance from Cat Ba Town. If you are an independent climber you can explore the crags of the main island Cat Ba on your own, you just need a motorbike or bicycle. To explore the sport climbing potential of the bay you will need a basketboat with driver and the access passes for the beaches. Both can be easily organised at Cat Ba Climbing .

If you are interested in DWS the easiest option is to join one of the day trips organized by Cat Ba Climbing, Langur Adventures or tour agencies like Cat Ba Ventures. Going on your own or with an unlicensed basket boat driver can be potentially dangerous. First of all it is not so easy to find the right crags and secondly you cannot start climbing out of the water, since there is a notch at the base of the cliffs: you'll need a boat. Thirdly, you need intimate knowledge of the cliffs to avoid climbing at too low a tide or hitting one of the underwater rocks. If you are a group of experienced climbers Cat Ba Climbing or Langur Adventures will be happy to organise taylor made DWS trips for you.

WHEN TO GO:

There are two main factors to consider when planning a climbing trip to Ha Long Bay. First you should know, that the temperatures vary significantly in the course of a year. The winter months are ideal for sport climbing, when the temperatures are cool (10-20 degrees celcius) and there is only moderate precipitation (5-25 mm a month). The downside of the winter are the unfavorable tides, which make DWS less enjoyable and only occasionally possible. A tide of over 2 meters is necessary to safely DWS in the bay and there are much more days with high tide during the daytime in the summer than in the winter. The downside of the summer months is that the weather is very hot and humid and there is a higher percentage of rainy days. While moderate rain is not a problem for DWS, since most cliffs are overhanging, but it obviously lessens the Ha Long Bay experience.

The ideal time to have fun on Ha Long Bay's DWS and sport climbing cliffs are the spring (April - May) and autumn months (September - November). The weather is generally good and there are generally over 15 days a month where you can DWS.

WHAT TO BRING:

Since the closure of Asia Outdoors, the situation with gear rental is a little more difficult, Cat Ba Climbing have some gear to rent,but it is only a limited amount. Send an email or request prior to arrival to be sure! You can check with Langur Adventures too. In 2023 the Cat Ba Climbing rental prices were (for full day, for half day prices are halved) in VND:

300.000 Climbing shoes, 100.000 Harness, 650.000 Rope, 100.000 Sling, 200.000 Quickdraws (15), 100.000 two locking carabiners, 100.000 Belay device, 50.000 Chalk bag, Rope bag, Helmet and First aid kit are included

THE GUIDEBOOK:

See in the guidebook section in the sidebar. Cat Ba Climbing can let you look into the topo if you visit them in person.

LINKS:

Guidebook excerpt: https://issuu.com/degiorgiluca/docs/halongbay-excerpt Climbing Companies: http://catbaclimbing.com/ / http://langursadventures.com/ Amazon.com link (Also available on Amazon EU and UK): https://www.amazon.com/Vietnam-Climbing-comprehensive-country-wide-guidebook/dp/1727545125 Youtube video of dws “Streak of Lightning - 7c+”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U12qM5PZOy8

access issues

Rock Climbing in this area is more tolerated than actually allowed, for this reason we ask everyone to treat the situation with a large amount of respect.

Climbing on the Island: Apart from needing passes from the local climbing companies, or paying a small fee to the local land owners apon arrival to climb, there is no other large access issues on land.

Climbing or DWS within Ha Long / Lan Ha Bay: This brings many more difficulties. climbing within Ha Long Bay remains illegal, and the harbour police do enforce often, this means climbing at 'The Face' or DWS at 'Le MeKong' is a challenge, and although someclimbers have managed to get there with no issues, others have been swiftly moved on by the harbour police in the bay. Boat drivers leaving Cat Ba island to go to Ha Long Bay (The Face etc.) also risk loosing their boats.

Please respect that this is a situation that local people are working on changing, and also please DO NOT BRIBE officials, some have tried this in the past, and it sets a bad president that will lead to more complications as time goes on.

approach

The easiest way to climb in Ha Long Bay is by staying on the southern main island of Cat Ba. In Cat Ba Town there is a wide selection of Hotels from which to choose and good touristic infrastructure. From there you can easily reach the crags on the island and in the bay. You will find the local climbing operator, at this point in time that is Cat Ba Climbing and Langur Adventures, they will be able to give you information about all things climbing related, as well as great things to do on your rest days!!

Getting to Cat Ba from Hanoi is quite easy and usually takes about five hours. You actually don't need to go to Ha Long City if you are mainly interested in climbing.

history

The first climbers to visit Ha Long Bay came in the 1990’s and early 2000’s. Americans Lynn Hill, Todd Skinner, Scott Milton, Paul Piana, Greg Child, and Frenchman Arnaud Petit, among others, led climbing expeditions to Vietnam and the Ha Long Bay region, bolting some of the area’s first known sport routes. Greg Child and Andy Parkin established early traditional multi-pitch lines in the bay, documented in the BBC’s The Face, Episode 2. British climbers such as Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Seb Grieve, Grant Farquhar, and Chris Lindner also visited, establishing sport and DWS routes. Tim Emmett and Klem Loskot are featured climbing at some of the locations presented in the guidebook in Big Up Productions’ Dosage Vol III, and Chris Lindner is featured in The Players.

Thanks to these pioneers, climbing in Vietnam and Ha Long Bay is growing fast in terms of development and popularity in the eyes of international climbers. Vietnam has since become a popular and inexpensive destination for travellers exploring and experiencing Southeast Asia through sport climbing and DWS.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.770927, 106.994923

summary

The biggest crag of Cat Ba Island.

description

Routes listed L to R.

access issues

Visit Langur's Adventures in Cat Ba Town for an access pass. 30k is required payment to the local farm south of the crag The valley floods in the rainy season so some of the climbs are inaccessible, an alternate walk in around the upper mantle is available.

approach

The crag is located 10 km from Cat Ba Town, ask at Langur's Adventures for a detailed approach description.

where to stay

At the basic camp called "The Hive" under the crag or in Cat Ba Town.

ethic

Due to the potential of rock fall anytime outdoors please understand that helmets are considered REQUIRED to climb anywhere here on the island. The Vietnamese government is looking for an excuse to shut down climbing in the area, don't be the reason we lose access to this beautiful area.
Please remove all trash you bring in when you leave
Many of the routes here have either rams horn anchors, permanent carabiner anchor or quick links. please only use this equipment for lowering and cleaning purposes. If you are top roping on any line please set up your own anchor system.

history

Bolted mainly by Erik Ferjentsik and Onslo Carrington between 2007 and 2010.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.735788, 107.044661

summary

Houses a shrine as well as protected wildlife (owls).

description

Tucked in the residential area of Cat Ba Town, this little cave is home to some cool climbs with potential for more! Stays dry all the time except when the humidity is 100% the walls will sweat, with the exception of Sheltered Nook, Slingswing and after heavy rain possibly Breakout.

access issues

This is government land but access is through private property, small fee is required on exit (10.000 VND as of 11/2024). Approach is challenging when wet, but it's a great crag for a rainy day and thus worth it.

approach

5 minutes hike up a steep hill. Challenging during/after rain, consider solid footwear!

where to stay

Cat Ba Town secret garden is the place of choice for climbers!

ethic

There is a Buddhist meditation area in the cave, please show your respect and only climb in designated areas.

Due to the potential of rock fall anytime outdoors please understand that helmets are considered REQUIRED to climb anywhere here on the island. The Vietnamese government is looking for an excuse to shut down climbing in the area, don't be the reason we lose access to this beautiful area.
Please remove all trash you bring in when you leave
Many of the routes here have either rams horn anchors, permanent carabiner anchor or quick links. please only use this equipment for lowering and cleaning purposes. If you are top roping on any line please set up your own anchor system.

history

Bolted by team from Asia Outdoors in 2014/2015 and Cat Ba Climbing 2016. new routes 2024 by Catba climbing.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.734412, 107.055683

summary

Dry in light rain, covered and shaded most of the day. From easy stuff to roof climbing.

description

Climbing area owned and maintained by Cat Ba Climbing / Mr. Zoom. Wide range of styles to climb, from juggy lines and slab routes to overhanging roof climbs. Routes to suit all levels. Great place to learn lead and / or multi-pitch climbing. Small bouldering cave. Toilet. Camping and campfires allowed. Wasps nests are more likely to appear during the summer months.

access issues

Access pass required to enter the crag on private property. Please purchase your access pass from Cat Ba Climbing / Mr. Zoom (50.000 VND, 2024). All proceeds go towards local land owners, bolting and maintenance.

approach

From the town it is only a 5 min drive to the parking area, from which you hike to the crag in about 10 min. Get directions from Cat Ba Climbing / Mr. Zoom. Closed footwear advised, might be slippery after rain.

where to stay

Stay anywhere in Cat Ba town, the crag is only a short drive away from the town centre.

ethic

Hidden Valley

Due to the potential of rock fall anytime outdoors please understand that helmets are considered REQUIRED to climb anywhere here on the island. The Vietnamese government is looking for an excuse to shut down climbing in the area, don't be the reason we lose access to this beautiful area.
Please remove all trash you bring in when you leave.
Many of the routes here have either permanent carabiner anchor or quick links. please only use this equipment for lowering and cleaning purposes. If you are top roping on any line please set up your own anchor system.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.732753, 107.058732

summary

Located in the sleepy harbor town of Ben Beo overlooking the harbor.

description

A beautiful limestone face with a burly overhang near the top.

approach

A 20 minute walk or 3 minute (10,000 VND) xe om (motorcycle taxi) ride from Cat Ba Town takes you to Ben Beo Harbor. Look left from the harbor gates towards a tan hotel and a cliff next to it. Each climber is required to pay a small access fee 25k to the local owners

where to stay

Cat Ba Town.

ethic

Ben Beo

Due to the potential of rock fall anytime outdoors please understand that helmets are considered REQUIRED to climb anywhere here on the island. the Vietnamese government is looking for an excuse to shut down climbing in the area, dont be the reason we lose access to this beautiful area.
Please remove all trash you bring in when you leave
the routes here have rap rings or quick links. please only use this equipment for lowering and cleaning purposes. If you are top roping on any line please set up your own anchor system.

history

Bolted by Asia Outdoors (formerly SloPony) team between 2008 and 2015.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.768763, 106.983642

summary

Newly bolted crag on the island by the asia outdoors team and others early 2019.

description

A nice cool crag on the island for a quieter experience, receives shade most of the day. new development in 2022/23 added 3 platforms for belaying, gear and hanging out and the nicest bathrooms you'll ever see at a crag including showers. look for a hammock in the trees for a great view of the action. the land owner intends on allowing camping here too, inquire with Mr. Zoom for details.

access issues

Access pass required to enter the crag on private property. Please purchase your access pass from Cat Ba Climbing / Mr. Zoom (30.000 VND, 2024). All proceeds go towards local land owners, bolting and maintenance.

approach

From cat ba town drive 35mins on scooter north past woodstock towards cat ba eco lodge. The crag can be seen on your right hand side. Drive around the large reservoir and park at the pull out at the back, open the left side of the fence head straight up the path and along the wall. please close the fence behind you when you leave

where to stay

In Cat ba town Secret garden is the hostel of choice or if you want to be closer to the crag the cat ba ecolodge is only a 5 minute walk away.

ethic

Fisher valley

Due to the potential of rock fall anytime outdoors please understand that helmets are considered REQUIRED to climb anywhere here on the island. The Vietnamese government is looking for an excuse to shut down climbing in the area, don't be the reason we lose access to this beautiful area.
Please remove all trash you bring in when you leave
Many of the routes here have either rams horn anchors, permanent carabiner anchor or quick links. please only use this equipment for lowering and cleaning purposes. If you are top roping on any line please set up your own anchor system.

Summary:

Deep water soloing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 20.816411, 107.061315

summary

The Ha Long Bay region of Vietnam, a sweep of water from which approximately 1,600 limestone karst islands soar, lies in the Gulf of Tonkin just off Vietnam’s northern coastline and is part of the UNESCO world natural heritage. These craggy islands boast a stunning mix of rock blanketed in jungle and steep, exposed faces. Although not all of these walls contain solid rock, there is an overwhelming abundance of magnificent climbable faces. Many of the walls that rise directly from the water are ideal for Deep Water Solo (DWS). Other faces stand over uninhabited sandy beaches, making for a unique and isolated sport climbing paradise. Cat Ba Island also boasts some amazing limestone cliffs to behold and experience.

description

There are more than 120 sport climbing routes on 13 crags, from 4a to 8a on Cat Ba Island and the beaches of Ha Long Bay. More than 230 deep water solo lines on 24 cliffs, from 4a to 7c+ wait for you in the bay, all in a day trip distance from Cat Ba Town. If you are an independent climber you can explore the crags of the main island Cat Ba on your own, you just need an access pass from Asia Outdoors and a motorbike or bicycle. To explore the sport climbing potential of the bay you will need a basketboat with driver and the access passes for the beaches. Both can be easily organised at the Asia Outdoors shop.

If you are interested in DWS the easiest option is to join one of the Asia Outdoors DWS day trips. Going on your own or with an unlicensed basket boat driver can be potentially dangerous. First of all it is not so easy to find the right crags and secondly you cannot start climbing out of the water, since there is a notch at the base of the cliffs: you'll need a boat. Thirdly, you need intimate knowledge of the cliffs to avoid climbing at too low a tide or hitting one of the underwater rocks. If you are a group of experienced climbers Asia Outdoors will be happy to organise taylor made DWS trips for you.

WHEN TO GO:

There are two main factors to consider when planning a climbing trip to Ha Long Bay. First you should know, that the temperatures vary significantly in the course of a year. The winter months are ideal for sport climbing, when the temperatures are cool (15-20 degrees celcius) and there is only moderate precipitation (5-25 mm a month). The downside of the winter are the unfavourable tides, which make DWS less enjoyable and only occasionally possible. A tide of over 2 meters is necessary to safely DWS in the bay and there are much more days with high tide during the daytime in the summer than in the winter. The downside of the summer months is that the weather is very hot and humid and there is a higher percentage of rainy days. While moderate rain is not a problem for DWS, since most cliffs are overhanging, but it obviously lessens the Ha Long Bay experience.

The ideal time to have fun on Ha Long Bay's DWS and sport climbing cliffs are the spring (April - May) and autumn months (September - November). The weather is generally good and there are generally over 15 days a month where you can DWS. It is recommended to send an email to Asia Outdoors to inquire about the current tides and to time your trip accordingly.

WHAT TO BRING:

Bring as much or as little as you want. You can rent everything from Asia Outdoors or use your own stuff. Inquire at www.asiaoutdoors.com.vn for the current gear rental rates. You can buy or rent the guidebook at the Asia Outdoors shop in Cat Ba or buy it in advance on amazon.com, amazon.co.uk or amazon.de.  

THE GUIDEBOOK:

This is the second rock climbing guidebook printed for the area, following in the footsteps of the 2008 book ‘Vietnam – A Climber’s Guide,’ written and printed by Erik Ferjentsik. Erik is one of the ‘godfathers’ of climbing in the area who, along with Onslo Carrington, came to Ha Long Bay in the mid 2000’s to develop the climbing scene into what it is (and is still being built into) today. The pair also founded Asia Outdoors, at the time known as Slo Pony Adventures. The company remains the local climbing custodian, representative and developer, as well as a go-to place for useful information and trips in the bay. Asia Outdoors is the only licensed rock climbing and deep water soloing company on the island and offers several guided activities including top-rope climbing, kayaking, stand up paddleboarding, yoga, and of course deep water soloing (2016).

This updated guidebook was needed because things have been happening: new sport routes have been bolted– some at entirely new crags– and a plethora of fresh deep water solo lines have been recorded, not all of which will actually fit into the guidebook. The guidebook’s production has been sponsored by Asia Outdoors and has been published in Vietnam in February 2016 and on Amazon in April 2016, making it available across the US and Europe. With details on access and accommodation, the book can be bought in advance of a trip to help in the planning stages. The photography alone is enough to wet any aspiring adventurer’s appetite for a climbing trip to these waters, and the sun, smiles and charm of Vietnam and its wonderful people means this is as unique a place to visit as you’ll ever find.

GUIDEBOOK SPECIFICATIONS:

2016 Edition
140 pages in colour
more than 120 sport climbing routes on 13 crags, from 4a to 8a
more than 230 deep water solo lines on 24 cliffs, from 4a to 7c+
30 pages with additional information (climbing pics, maps, access info, rock climbing history, climate and geology, and other useful information)
17 GBP, 20 Dollars, 20 Euro

LINKS:

Guidebook excerpt: https://issuu.com/degiorgiluca/docs/halongbay-excerpt

Asia Outdoors website: www.asiaoutdoors.com.vn

Amazon.com link (Also available on Amazon EU and UK): http://www.amazon.com/dp/1523861959/ref=cm_sw_su_dp

Youtube video of dws “Streak of Lightning - 7c+”:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U12qM5PZOy8

approach

The easiest way to climb in Ha Long Bay is by staying on the southern main island of Cat Ba. In Cat Ba Town there is a wide selection of Hotels from which to choose and good touristic infrastructure. From there you can easily reach the crags on the island and in the bay. Also, Asia Outdoors is located in Cat Ba Town, there you can get the access passes for individual climbing or join one of their climbing trips. If you are with a group of friends and want to live the ultimate Ha Long Bay climbing experience you should rent a junk boat for a few days and take a tour through the bay. Imagine spending as much time as you want on the crags, even the ones farther away, and passing the night in a secluded cove.

Getting to Cat Ba from Hanoi is quite easy and usually takes about five hours. You actually don't need to go to Ha Long City if you are mainly interested in climbing. Check www.asiaoutdoors.com.vn for up to date information.

ethic

Even stainless bolts tend to only last a few years before rusting out. All efforts should be made to rebolt old routes (and equip new ones) with the best possible technology (titanium bolts glued in with Hilti RE-500). Send Lee an email with regards to sourcing titanium bolts. upskillclimbing AT gmail DOT com.

history

The first climbers to visit Ha Long Bay came in the 1990’s and early 2000’s. Americans Lynn Hill, Todd Skinner, Scott Milton, Paul Piana, Greg Child, and Frenchman Arnaud Petit, among others, led climbing expeditions to Vietnam and the Ha Long Bay region, bolting some of the area’s first known sport routes. Greg Child and Andy Parkin established early traditional multi-pitch lines in the bay, documented in the BBC’s The Face, Episode 2. British climbers such as Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Seb Grieve, Grant Farquhar, and Chris Lindner also visited, establishing sport and DWS routes. Tim Emmett and Klem Loskot are featured climbing at some of the locations presented in the guidebook in Big Up Productions’ Dosage Vol III, and Chris Lindner is featured in The Players.

Thanks to these pioneers, climbing in Vietnam and Ha Long Bay is growing fast in terms of development and popularity in the eyes of international climbers. Vietnam has since become a popular and inexpensive destination for travellers exploring and experiencing Southeast Asia through sport climbing and DWS.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.749527, 107.079722

approach

By boat, 5Km from Ben Beo harbour. Around 30 minutes travel

where to stay

Cat Ba Island

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.745576, 107.086462

description

A perfect crack divides this overhanging wall. The climbing is fairly easy in the beginning but gets harder and harder.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.757367, 107.062488

summary

Small beach crag located in lan ha bay. Crag is very hot in the morning due to the sun but receives afternoon shade.

description

Routes listed L to R.

access issues

Please consult Langur's Adventures in cat ba tơwn for current access. You may find yourself not being able to climb as they run tours daily

approach

Very tidal influenced crag, some climbs may be unaccesible at high tides.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.760599, 107.064353

summary

Small island crag located in Lan Ha Bay

description

Routes listed L to R.

access issues

Now located on a private island owned by castaways through the vietnamese backpacker hostel. The owners of caststaways are not allowing anyone to climb and will tủrn people away from the beach

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.760691, 107.062745

summary

Bigger wall on the left hand side of tiger beach owned through castaways/vietnamese backpacker hostel

description

Routes listed L to R.

access issues

Please consult Langurs Adventures in cat ba town for curent access. The owners of castaways will turn away climbers trying to land on the beach without permission

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 20.760174, 107.061444

description

Routes listed L to R.

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 20.776340, 107.065958

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.756920, 107.066347

access issues

Please consult Langurs advenutres cat ba town for current access

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.758195, 107.073355

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.759870, 107.077698

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 20.765928, 107.083445

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.776836, 107.075860

access issues

Please consult Langur advenutes cat ba for current access

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.775429, 107.083570

summary

Deep Water Solo

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.790386, 107.116224

summary

Deep Water Solo

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.754649, 107.127626

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 20.794024, 107.099681

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.755611, 107.130272

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.761938, 107.145446

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.753239, 107.149207

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.791605, 107.110050

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.788462, 107.104543

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.787297, 107.104343

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.787658, 107.104811

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.800550, 107.096721

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.768907, 107.136324

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.804307, 107.110540

description

Area opened by Todd Skinner and Lynn Hill back in the day.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.816279, 107.122185

description

DO NOT CLIMB. Off limits due to new tourist construction. A shame as there's about 8 routes here and they're good.

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.802132, 107.134329

Summary:

Deep water soloing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 20.792388, 107.109486

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.900087, 107.018722

description

OLD AREA - BEWARE BAD BOLTS

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.792111, 107.117095

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.724226, 107.065189

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.726780, 107.079946

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.805567, 107.099352

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.801216, 107.101011

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 20.758136, 107.088766

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.780954, 107.098622

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 20.779744, 107.117977

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 20.778461, 107.063373

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 10.519816, 107.119781

description

Suoi Da is a hiking and swimming destination in the rainy season. It features granite rocks with different styles of climbing. Majority of the boulders are vertical and slab. It also has a few steep boulders to climb.

4 crash pads have been donated to this area and you can rent them for 50k VNĐ for 1 pad per day. Just ask the lady at the first parking on the right (10.5175278, 107.1199778). Please respect the rules on renting the crash pads.

There are still more boulders to be opened so if you happen to open new ones, let us know the full information(photo, route name, grade, first ascent, and gps location) by leaving a comment or contact us through one of these 3 climbing gyms - Vertical Academy, Push Climbing, Skywalk Climbing - or youleovn(instagram)

Note: Make sure to bring bugs spray!

Documentary from the climbing festival in Suoi Da

Vlog from developing the area and climbing some boulders

approach

first parking on the right (10.5175278, 107.1199778), this is also where you can rent the crashpads. Parking a car costs 30K VND per day.

Suoi Da is about 80km (1 hour and 40 mins car ride) from HCMC. Note that to get there by car, you need to ride on the lane for scooters and then turn right on a smaller road. When you get there, you will see local stores selling food and drinks. They don't have a lot of options so it's better if you bring your own food. From there, you will also see signs that will direct you to the different bouldering areas. Make sure to use the GPS coordinates here to find the boulders without issues.

There is a big space for a parking area when you get there.

Note : Some of the areas are season dependent. During rainy season, it will not be possible to climb some of boulders due to flooding. Information about the access of the boulders are on the topo.

where to stay

Option A : There is a nice camp site in the area with a toilet and shower. Also, the caretaker of the crash pads can prepare meals for you.

Note: Please contact Thai to help you contact and book the campsite

Option B : You can stay in a guest house outside of Soui Da

ethic

Always follow the LEAVE NO TRACE principle. Also, there are no proper toilets for now so please find a good spot when you go for number 1 or 2.

The place will be busy during rainy season on the weekends since people are there to go swimming so please be mindful when climbing, we want to have a good relationship with the locals.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 10.518043, 107.120330

summary

From the campsite/crashpad rental shop, walk about 15 meters towards the 2 local stores and look to your right side

Summary:

Lat / Long: 10.517526, 107.121617

summary

As of the moment, we were only able to open 1 boulder with 2 problems. But there are still more to be opened.

description

Prepare a lot of motivation. It is a very long way up!

approach

From the Main Wall, walk straight towards the 2 local stores and about 5 meters, look to your right and you will see an approach going up. Hike all the way up through the bamboo forest or the slab on the right side. When you make it to the top, spend time to enjoy the view and move to the left side and there you will see the boulders

Summary:

Lat / Long: 10.520572, 107.121079

description

This will be the first boulder you will see if you go in from the main entrance

approach

From the local stores, go straight to the entrance for about 200 meters

Summary:

Lat / Long: 10.520661, 107.121308

summary

This area has about 5 different boulders

approach

About 5 minutes walk from Totem boulder, look to your right and you will see this area.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 10.521184, 107.120679

access issues

Only available to climb during dry season

approach

About 50 meters from boulder avenue. Check sign from Boulder avenue for directions.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 10.521592, 107.121577

description

This area is one of the few overhanging boulders

access issues

Still unsure if it is climbable during rainy season. We will update soon!

approach

From the boulder avenue, follow the pathway and you will see a sign that will direct you to this area.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 10.521210, 107.121194

description

One of the best boulders in the area. Overhanging and has nice moves. Beware of itchy plants!

approach

If you are facing area 51, proceed to the left side and about 100 meters, you will see this boulder. Check for a sign for directions

Summary:

Lat / Long: 10.519254, 107.119604

description

This area has 2 different boulders that are opened and can possibly have more.

approach

From the local store, DO NOT go to the main entrance. Just go on a small path on your left downhill, to the stream, across it and then uphill on a small path. You will reach a bigger path soon and there you turn left.

Alternatively, if you go up the main entrance uphil, you can turn left to walk to the lake number 2 with a big Suoi Da sign. Cross the stream under the lake and you will find a path continuing in the forest, use it until you see the boulders

Summary:

Lat / Long: 10.519945, 107.119144

approach

You'll see this boulder on the right side of the road, before P-Boulder.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 10.520064, 107.118830

description

Mother of underclings! Possibly the best boulder in Suối Đá

access issues

This boulder is next to a house, so please be mindful.

approach

From Summoners Rift, follow the pathway and about 50 meters, look to your right and you will see an obvious big boulder with a big long undercling

ethic

There is a a house behind the boulder, so please be mindful when climbing.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 10.519586, 107.117805

description

This has 2 different boulders and probably has the most problems in 1 boulder

approach

From the P-boulder, keep following the pathway and about 400 meters, you will see the boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 10.519494, 107.117874

description

From P-Boulder on your right, follow the trail for 60~80m then you can see this boulder on the left and Hunchback on the right.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 10.519807, 107.117881

description

This boulder always in the shade, but not ideal for rainy season. Alot of dirt/mud will fill in the crack after a heavy rain, so it takes time to clear and dry it off.

p/s: We found this boulder 1-2years ago, and we thought it's not worth to clean it. But turn out it has many possibility lines and interesting sequence.

approach

You could see this boulder about 10~20 meters on the right side of Hunchback boulder. Follow the small trail, you'll see this boulder on the left. It's not obvious but no way you could miss it.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 20.623282, 105.041200

access issues

Head to Asia Outdoors Mai Chau for up to date crag info.

approach

About 10 minutes oustide from Mai Chau Village (by motorbike).

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 20.614797, 105.004272

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 20.614874, 105.004518

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.641003, 105.063549

description

A great beginner crag just outside the village. The landowner might collect a small fee for access to the cliff.

history

Established in 2011 by Onslo Carrington and Vu Nguyen. Further development in 2016 and 2017 by Nate Mathy and Arjan Nekoie.

Summary:

Top roping and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 16.003906, 108.264253

description

Couple of routes in Marble Mountains in Danang, Central Vietnam, developed by Phat Tire Ventures. All routes are next to Linh Ung Pagoda.

approach

Public transport is available, though the easiest is to rent a bike or bicycle. The entrance fee was 15000d. For lazy ones there is also elevator available for 70000d

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 12.333977, 109.127175

summary

Cross the sea of Vietnam there are a lot of granite boulder, including Nha Trang

description

On the islands at the southern tip there is potential for bouldering and some short ropes climbs on sandstone. The rock seems pretty solid, but I didn’t get a chance to look extensively.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 12.272868, 109.206488

summary

Beautiful big boulder on the right side of Hòn Chồng beach

approach

cross the coffee shop or cross boulder ridge on the left of coffee shop, or swim from the beach

summary

A bunch of big solid rock along the coast

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 22.333573, 103.849275

summary

Beautiful Boulder field within a local park in Sa Pa, Lao Cai, Vietnam. Limestone highballs and a lot of future potential. Please always respect the locals and be discrete and caring of the area.

description

The area of Sapa is a gorgeous landscape. Ham Rong or Dragon Jaw Mountain is a local park/trek with a beautiful view of the town of Sapa, Vietnam. Below the hike is a park with a 70000VND entry fee (2023), that contains some historical monuments, tourist attractions, a garden, and hundreds of potential boulders for climbers. Currently (as of April 2023) there is no documented climbing in the area, however the potential here is very obvious. Lower in the park there is even a large limestone wall that could be bolted or possibly trad climbed. However, there are juggy, tall, limestone boulders saturating the park. The locals were happily amused watching a tourist with special shoes climb the rocks and paid little attention, although no official permission has been granted, so if visiting please be very respectful and discrete as this is a sacred area for the town. Looking up to the top of Ham Rong mountain, another large Boulder field can be seen on the lower embankment below the peak, and above large face walls that also have potential. As of now this would be the most northern documented climbing area in Vietnam, so hopefully other climbers will find their way here and help respectfully develop the area. Please ask permission before bolting anything.

access issues

70000VND entry fee. No official permission for climbing. Be careful and respectful and gain permission if possible.

approach

20 minute walk from downtown Sapa on stairs and well marked paths through a local park filled with rocks.

where to stay

Sa Pa, Vietnam at any of the local hotels/hostels.

ethic

Always respect the locals and gain permission to climb where possible! Ask the park authorities for official permission if planning any climbing beyond casual bouldering (projecting with crash pads, bolting routes, setting up top ropes, trad climbing, etc.) as you will most likely be the first person/group they have heard such a request from and will be paving the way for future climbers. Do it right the first time as to not ruin such a beautiful potential climbing spot.

history

"Ham Rong mountain has a shape like a dragon holding its head up towards the sky. Many people find its legend much more interesting and romantic. Legend has it that, once upon a time, the place was a home of a dragon couple. They love each other so passionately that they were always together. Now the mountain is home to many different types of flora. On the way to the top of Ham Rong mountain, you can discover up to 6000 orchid vegetation. There are also a lot of wild and unique flowers grown alongside the paths like cherry blossom, hydrangea, geraniums, Lily of the Nile,… Besides, you also have a chance to taste many kinds of Sapa fruits like peach, plum, and pear. Ham Rong mountain looks like a heaven on the earth surrounded by the drifting clouds and echo sound from Mong boys’ bamboo flute." -https://vietnamdiscovery.com/sapa/attractions/ham-rong-mountain/

Summary:

Lat / Long: 22.332912, 103.848428

description

The first boulder above the stairs through the two walls of rocks. Very blank bottom section, making the problems harder than most of the boulders in this area. Trees touching the face limit climb-ability. Tall and powerful in appearance.

approach

70000VND entry fee into Ham Rong Mountain park. Follow well marked paths into the upper garden, past the tourist attraction landmarks. Just beyond the stairs between the two rock walls, but before Dragon Tooth (See Dragon Tooth Boulder for further access). Just before 100% Pepsi and Golden Nugget Boulders. Directly to the right of the refreshment stand.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 22.332912, 103.848428

description

The smaller limestone boulder near the drink stand in the upper garden. Easy problems with some sit start variations. Range from V0-V2. Good warmup with some refreshments from the locals. Easy walk off on back side of the boulder. Flat, grassy fall zone.

approach

70000VND entry fee into Ham Rong Mountain park. Follow well marked paths into the upper garden, past the tourist attraction landmarks. Just beyond the stairs between the two rock walls, but before Dragon Tooth (See Dragon Tooth Boulder for further access). Behind a large umbrella and some wooden benches.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 22.332912, 103.848428

description

Small warmup boulder to the right of 100% Pepsi. Needs a good clean to be comfortable. Currently has lots of spider webs and vegetation. Easy-looking problems in the V0-V1 range.

approach

70000VND entry fee into Ham Rong Mountain park. Follow well marked paths into the upper garden, past the tourist attraction landmarks. Just beyond the stairs between the two rock walls, but before Dragon Tooth (See Dragon Tooth Boulder for further access). Behind a large umbrella and some wooden benches.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 22.333573, 103.849275

description

The obvious Highball point boulder in the upper garden. Has a lot of potential problems, but some sides would need some major cleaning. Cluster of rocks with nice juggy pockets and great moves. Mostly in the V0-V2 range with roo. for some more difficult problems.

approach

Pay 70000VND to enter Ham Rong park and follow the obvious path up the garden. Continue up stairs past the open flower area into a corridor of rock. Continue along the central path until a tower is visible. This tower is the peak of the Dragon Tooth Boulder cluster.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 22.333610, 103.849390

description

Walk on the path to the left of the Dragon Tooth Boulder, between the two rock walls and immediately turn right to find the wall. Like all the other boulders here, it could use cleaning.

approach

See Dragon Tooth Boulder for access.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 20.216184, 105.914007

summary

Ninh Binh/Tam Coc area. Currently only bouldering, but a lot of potential for bolted sport climbing or trad climbing in the area. Filled with beautiful limestone cliffs and pillars.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 20.216184, 105.914007

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 20.997773, 105.643948

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 20.827276, 107.225640

Summary:

Lat / Long: 20.902943, 107.151323

description

OLD AREA - BEWARE BAD BOLTS

Summary:

Lat / Long: 20.900978, 107.165277

description

OLD AREA - BEWARE BAD BOLTS

At least two of the routes have been rebolted by SloPony.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 20.874960, 107.296709

description

OLD AREA - BEWARE BAD BOLTS!

description

https://www.vietclimb.vn/

Table of contents

1. Vietnam 846 routes in Region

1.1. Hữu Lũng 194 routes in Crag

1.1.1. Head Wall 21 routes in Cliff

1.1.2. Chúc Sức Khỏe Wall 1 route in Cliff

1.1.3. Squirrel Wall 6 routes in Cliff

1.1.4. The Arch 5 routes in Cliff

1.1.5. La Conche 12 routes in Cliff

1.1.6. L'Ile Noire 11 routes in Cliff

1.1.7. Papaya Wall 6 routes in Cliff

1.1.8. Passe-Muraille 11 routes in Cliff

1.1.9. WoofStuck 12 routes in Cliff

1.1.10. Dragon Wall 23 routes in Cliff

1.1.11. Thánh Gióng 22 routes in Cliff

1.1.12. Dead End 27 routes in Cliff

1.1.13. The Cave 10 routes in Cliff

1.1.14. K Wall 4 routes in Area

1.1.15. Drone Wall 23 routes in Area

1.2. Cat Ba Island 160 routes in Crag

1.2.1. Butterfly Valley 70 routes in Area

1.2.2. The Cave 9 routes in Crag

1.2.3. Hidden Valley / The Farm 38 routes in Area

Fixed Gear: Broken bolt and hanger

1.2.4. Ben Beo Harbour 8 routes in Crag

Access: Climbing access denied

Fixed Gear: Rusty Bolts

1.2.5. Squanch Wall/Fisher Valley 35 routes in Crag

1.3. Vịnh Lan Hạ 298 routes in Crag

1.3.1. Mit Beach 7 routes in Crag

1.3.2. Streak of Lightning 1 route in Boulder

1.3.3. Moody's Beach 6 routes in Area

1.3.4. Offenheimer's Creation 9 routes in Area

Access: Climbing access denied

1.3.5. Slo Pony Wall 5 routes in Area

1.3.6. Pirate's Belly 3 routes in Area

1.3.7. Temple Amphitheatre 6 routes in Area

1.3.8. Hawaii 5-0 Wall 16 routes in Area

1.3.9. Crag X 5 routes in Cliff

1.3.10. Van Boi Trong 7 routes in Cliff

1.3.11. Big Ben 8 routes in Cliff

1.3.12. Three Brothers 18 routes in Area

1.3.13. Jellyfish Wall 15 routes in Area

1.3.14. Stingray Wall 15 routes in Area

1.3.15. Fisherman's Way 11 routes in Area

1.3.16. Polish Pillar 2 routes in Area

1.3.17. Le Mekong 1947 9 routes in Area

1.3.18. Monster face 3 routes in Cliff

1.3.19. Gingerbread 11 routes in Cliff

1.3.20. Unemployment Wall 8 routes in Area

1.3.21. Flying Fish Wall 6 routes in Area

1.3.22. Never Never Land 13 routes in Cliff

1.3.23. Andy Cave 9 routes in Cliff

1.3.24. Hang Ca Cave 15 routes in Crag

1.3.25. The Face 4 routes in Area