Central Region Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Central Region 2,125 routes in Region

4 5 3 6 2 7 1 8

1 Bucegi Massif 2 Piatra Craiului 3 Făgărașului Massif 4 Postăvaru Massif 5 Piatra Mare 6 Ciucaş 7 Iezer-Păpușa Massif 8 Leaota Massif

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.410734, 25.211238

description

guidebook: "Rock Climbing in Romania - A Climbing Guide of Brasov Crags" http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingShop/A-Climbing-guide-of-Brasov-crags.html

1.1. Bucegi Massif 761 routes in Region

4 3 10 1 2 5 7 6 11

1 Coștila 2 Caraiman 3 Morarul 4 Bucşoiul 5 Jepii Mici 6 Sinaia 7 Bătrâna 10 Mecetul Turcesc 11 Moroieni

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.364629, 25.457206

1.1.1. Coștila 213 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Alpine climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.431409, 25.504240

summary

Big walls in alpine setting with long approaches and descents.

description

Largest multi-pitch area in Romania. 150 to ~350 meter walls starting from 1700m altitude.

access issues

Area is populated by bears.

approach

From Bușteni railway station, go to Căminul Alpin and follow Morarului Street to the forest limit. Take the marked trail (red triangle) that goes straight up through the forest. Soon you'll reach a small glade with a wooden sculpted cross. Exiting the glade, you will turn left on the dirt road marked with a red triangle. Follow this road for about 10 minutes until you see, on your left, a metal indicator arrow nailed to a tree. Here you will leave the marked road and take the path that goes straight up into the forest. Follow this path (yellow paint) for about one hour to the Coștila Refuge. More info and topos here: http://roclimbs.ro/EnMasiv.aspx?ID_Masiv=3

where to stay

Coștila Refuge - bring food, sleeping and cooking gear. The refuge is modest - one room with bunk beds (for 20+ people) a table and two benches. No heating in winter. Water can be found at the spring on the approach trail (20 minutes below the refuge) http://roclimbs.ro/EnCazare.aspx?ID_Cazare=1

ethic

No fires should be started as the setting is a National Park.

history

Historical area where the first alpine routes were opened in the early 1900s

1.1.2. Caraiman 73 routes in Area

Summary:

Alpine climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.420244, 25.508921

1.1.3. Morarul 39 routes in Area

Summary:

Alpine climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.446071, 25.478367

1.1.4. Bucşoiul 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

Alpine climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 45.459996, 25.451684

1.1.5. Jepii Mici 74 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 45.396304, 25.504841

1.1.6. Sinaia 206 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.359411, 25.507908

1.1.7. Bătrâna 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 45.391470, 25.427948

1.1.8. Guţanul 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.1.9. Grohotişul 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.1.10. Mecetul Turcesc 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.437079, 25.447853

1.1.11. Moroieni 78 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.265872, 25.399882

1.2. Piatra Craiului 451 routes in Area

2 5 10 8 4 6 13 1 3 9 7 14

1 Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor 2 Padina Popii 3 Măgura 4 Piatra Mică 5 Valea Crăpăturii 6 Valea Ciorânga 7 Marele Grohotiş 8 Padina lui Călineţ 9 Poiana Închisă 10 Padina Închisă 13 Crângul Ciorii 14 Valea Dâmbovicioarei

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.516536, 25.222444

1.2.1. Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor 105 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 45.523287, 25.274333

1.2.2. Padina Popii 33 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.557734, 25.237422

1.2.3. Măgura 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.524983, 25.312126

1.2.4. Piatra Mică 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.549481, 25.259085

1.2.5. Valea Crăpăturii 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.556483, 25.259590

1.2.6. Valea Ciorânga 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 45.547442, 25.221794

1.2.7. Marele Grohotiş 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Alpine climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.496134, 25.167707

1.2.8. Padina lui Călineţ 79 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Alpine climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.553927, 25.207791

1.2.9. Poiana Închisă 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Alpine climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 45.515215, 25.201179

1.2.10. Padina Închisă 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Alpine climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.554181, 25.246040

1.2.11. Valea Vlăduşca - Vâlcelul Căldării Ocolite 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Alpine climbing and Trad climbing

1.2.12. Vâlcelul Căldării Ocolite 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Alpine climbing and Trad climbing

1.2.13. Crângul Ciorii 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.540433, 25.292443

1.2.14. Valea Dâmbovicioarei 60 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.426515, 25.212957

1.3. Făgărașului Massif 141 routes in Area

17 16 19 21 15 20 9 10 8 7 5 3 4 6

3 Piscul Sărăţii 4 Negoiu - Lespezi - Călţun 5 Laiţa 6 Zona Vidraru 7 Bâlea Lac (Bâlea Lake) 8 Văiuga 9 Buteanu 10 Arpășel 15 Ucea Mare 16 Viştea Mare 17 Zănoaga 19 Drăguș 20 Sâmbăta 21 Căldarea lui Mogoș

Summary:

Trad climbing, Ice climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.525596, 24.723377

1.3.1. Avrig 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.3.2. Șerbota 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

1.3.3. Piscul Sărăţii 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Ice climbing, Alpine climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.592784, 24.540214

1.3.4. Negoiu - Lespezi - Călţun 27 routes in Crag

Summary:

Ice climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.583549, 24.575647

1.3.5. Laiţa 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 45.596624, 24.614732

1.3.6. Zona Vidraru 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 45.466350, 24.621839

1.3.7. Bâlea Lac (Bâlea Lake) 14 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 45.603108, 24.616062

summary

The area surrounding Balea Lake and its subsequent crags for mixed climbing in winter, as well as multi-pitch.

description

Facile access from the parking near Balea Lake. Quite crowded during high season (both summer and winter), but mainly with hikers or skiers.

access issues

Rockfall during summer, avalanche hazard during winter.

approach

Multi-directional paths from Balea Lake, on designated tourist trails, and unmarked paths.

where to stay

Balea Lake inn, Paltinu cabin, Balea Tunel hut, Salvamont hut.

1.3.8. Văiuga 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Alpine climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.605807, 24.629579

1.3.9. Buteanu 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Alpine climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.606029, 24.628626

1.3.10. Arpășel 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 45.605157, 24.642474

1.3.11. Albota 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

1.3.12. Buda-Râiosu-Mușeteica 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

1.3.13. Podragu-Podrăgel 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Alpine climbing and Trad climbing

1.3.14. Tărâța 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Alpine climbing and Trad climbing

1.3.15. Ucea Mare 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.607229, 24.718064

1.3.16. Viştea Mare 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Alpine climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 45.628506, 24.738808

1.3.17. Zănoaga 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 45.631045, 24.755219

1.3.18. Viștișoara 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

1.3.19. Drăguș 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 45.620531, 24.774944

1.3.20. Sâmbăta 11 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.607244, 24.787222

1.3.21. Căldarea lui Mogoș 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 45.609222, 24.827866

1.4. Postăvaru Massif 470 routes in Region

5 4 2 6 3

2 Peretele Vanga Mare 3 Pârâul Rece 4 Pietrele lui Solomon 5 Tâmpa 6 Muchia Cheii

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.569406, 25.539274

summary

Good access. Brașov is nearby.

description

Plenty of trad, sport and dry tooling routes.

1.4.1. Santinela Cheii 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

access issues

East of Rasnov on county road

1.4.2. Peretele Vanga Mare 26 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.569339, 25.540114

1.4.3. Pârâul Rece 55 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.505273, 25.502039

1.4.4. Pietrele lui Solomon 94 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.617396, 25.558276

1.4.5. Tâmpa 37 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.633092, 25.590761

1.4.6. Muchia Cheii 254 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.549070, 25.532535

1.5. Piatra Mare 211 routes in Area

5 4 3 1 2

1 Zona Cabanei Piatra Mare 2 Tamina 3 Valea Şipotelor 4 Prăpastia Ursului 5 Valea Chiva

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.559029, 25.646215

1.5.1. Zona Cabanei Piatra Mare 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.550972, 25.649893

1.5.2. Tamina 69 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.533582, 25.610643

1.5.3. Valea Şipotelor 27 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.558837, 25.649284

1.5.4. Prăpastia Ursului 85 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 45.567073, 25.649050

1.5.5. Valea Chiva 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.583653, 25.654437

1.6. Ciucaş 22 routes in Crag

3 5 4 2 6 8 7 1

1 Peretele Alexandru 2 Turnul Căprioarei 3 Mâna Dracului 4 Turnul Goliat 5 Turnul Roşu 6 Colţul Muntelui Roşu 7 Turnul Triunghiular 8 Pasul Bratocea

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.502630, 25.931331

summary

Ciucas Massif

where to stay

Cheia

1.6.1. Peretele Alexandru 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.475202, 25.973656

1.6.2. Turnul Căprioarei 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.506812, 25.937879

1.6.3. Mâna Dracului 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.530074, 25.927282

1.6.4. Turnul Goliat 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.518378, 25.917170

1.6.5. Turnul Roşu 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.519107, 25.913930

1.6.6. Colţul Muntelui Roşu 0 routes in Sector

1.6.7. Turnul Triunghiular 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.487568, 25.973410

1.6.8. Pasul Bratocea 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.490994, 25.889135

summary

Conglomerate cliffs in the forest. Technical, long and challenging routes.

approach

From Bratocea Pass, continue in the direction of Brasov for 1.8km. Park in the first parking lot on the left side. This parking lot is the second one on the right side when coming from Brasov towards Bratocea Pass, after a large parking lot that is about 250m before it.

Once parked, walk back approximately 30-40m towards Brasov, cross the road, and take the uphill path. Climb the first slope for about 250-300m, then start heading towards 10 o'clock. Look carefully, and you'll see clear orange signs that lead to the cliffs.

After the first slope, you'll encounter a shorter but steeper slope. After climbing it, walk for about 50-70m and try to follow a leftward contour curve for approximately 150m. Look for the signs again and don't go up the valley's path. Instead, stay on the left side of the slope, guided by some large boulders. Pass the boulders on the left side and continue straight uphill.

After around 200m, you'll reach a forest road that intersects your path. The cliffs are located about 150m above this point. The first cliff you'll encounter is called Bibisha. The next two cliffs to the right are La Armeanu and La artisti. The Lazy sector is approximately 150-200m to the left on the contour curve compared to the Bibisha sector.

where to stay

Brasov or Cheia

history

Found and opened by Cornel Sain in 2022.

1.7. Iezer-Păpușa Massif 34 routes in Area

1

1 Cabana Cuca

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.463598, 25.015151

1.7.1. Cabana Cuca 34 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.471584, 25.043489

1.8. Leaota Massif 35 routes in Area

1 2 3

1 Cheile Crovului 2 Mateiaș 3 Mănăstirea Cetățuia

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.332414, 25.243669

1.8.1. Cheile Crovului 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.393413, 25.274130

1.8.2. Mateiaș 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.303013, 25.147036

1.8.3. Mănăstirea Cetățuia 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.222791, 25.201453