Routes in Romania for selected grade

Sit start

Stand start

Stand start

Sit start

Also works as trad

Just the column.

Take care to avoid the edelweiss flowers on the route.

(5c)

(5a)

(?)

The entry and first meters of the route are deteriorated due to construction work on a parking lot.

A well protected route (bolted belays, occasional bolts, the old aid pitonsre still in place).

Pitch 1: start on an initial vegetated dihedral that becomes vertical (crux of the pitch), then follow a left-leaning crack past the old belay, under a roof, where the new bolted belay can be found.

Pitch 2: Traverse right across a boulder, then head up under the roof and head left (exposed exit - crux of the route, loose boulder in the crack). Continue on easier, vegetated terrain up to a small hollow(an old intermediate belay), over it and onwards to the base of a crack (bolted belay).

Pitch 3: There is a very visible piton at the base of the crack, but that goes nowhere. Instead, climb the small ridge to the left, traverse right under the crack, and climb the face to the right (airy exit). Belay off a tree.

Can be climbed as an extension of the Ioana route from Sector A

Access is either from the narrow ledge that leads you to Sector B or by going left after climbing the Sarpele route from Sector A

Can be climbed as an extension of the Lynx route from Sector A

Route renovated in march 2023.

Pitch 1: Head up on easy slab towards the fir tree, then at some tree roots take right, towards a very red portion of the rock. Follow a slightly overhanging crack up it (probably the most interesting portion of the route, cool moves and a rock not very often found in the area) and exit right then slightly left to the base of a wide dihedral where the bolted belay station is. 50m, 7-/7 UIAA

Pitch 2: Follow the dihedral upwards. Slightly more airily bolted/pitoned, but easy terrain and good possibilities for larger mobiles. After ~25 meters, you'll see an old 3-piton belay station on a ledge to the right. The bolted belay is 10 meters higher, so continue following the dihedral up and traverse to the left under a roof to the bolted belay. 30m, 5 UIAA

Pitch 3: Follow a crack upwards (crux of the route, 7/7+ UIAA, can be aided on medium-large nuts/small to medium friends) and reach a ridge. Follow it, and belay at a tree. 40m, 7/7+ UIAA

Two actual-climbing lengths separated by a grassy slope, followed by a scrambling finish. In situ protection is old pitons, there are a lot of options for mobile placements however (mostly small friends/medium-large nuts). The route hasn't seen a lot of traffic since 2010 or so, having been skipped on the Great Rebolting, and could use a more thorough cleaning.

Pitch 1: follow the initially-vertical then slightly overhanging crack for about 15m, then exit slightly to the right on easy slab until you reach a belay. The belay is 2 old ring pitons set in the same highly-vegetated crack, so, on a rope 50m or longer, it might be a good idea to continue on the next pitch. Probably about 7 UIAA, ~25-30m

Pitch 2: a walk up a grassy slope to the base of the oblique crack above, where you will find the belay - also 2 pitons, but better-looking and less likely to be corroded on the inside. Couple cracks in the area can take small to medium nuts or small friends if you want to beef the belay up

Pitch 3: climb upwards and to the right under an arch, on easy slab terrain, until you reach the base of a dihedral (there's a loop of rope under it to aid the move). After climbing over a small juniper bush, follow the dihedral (it's decently pitoned but not quite enough to do as an aid length unless you're using extra mobiles) to a small overhang (can be avoided on the left on friable slabby terrain) and reach a ridge. There's another 2-piton belay, but if you follow the ridge leftwards for 2m you'll reach a perfectly serviceable tree with a much more comfortable belay stance. Also probably 7 UIAA, 40m.

Pitch 3.5: walk on the ridge, above a big pine, then head up on a scree "tongue" to a small chimney with 2 boulders stuck in it. Climb it and reach the forest. 2-3 UIAA, no in situ protection, 55m out of which all but 4 are walking