Central Outer Pyrenees Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Central Outer Pyrenees 4,345 routes in Region

2 3 1 5 9 7 15 13 6 10 12 11 8 14 4 16 17 30 29 27 25 26 28 31 24 20 23 19 22 32 21 18 34 35

1 Collegats 2 Sopeira 3 Serra de Sant Gervas 4 Abella de la Conca 5 Tres Ponts 6 Serra de Carreu 7 Serra de Sant Joan 8 Coll de Nargó 9 Fígols (Organyà) 10 Roca Narieda (Organyà) 11 Tossal de Balinyó (Canelles) 12 Torreo i la Rufa (Canelles) 13 Roc dels Collars (Canelles) 14 Perles 15 Roc de Galliner 16 Cinglera dels Espluvins 17 Oliana 18 Cubells - l'Indret 19 Cubells 20 Camarasa 21 Sant Llorenç de Montgai 22 Barranc Fondo 23 Mont Roig 24 Alòs de Balaguer 25 La Pauta 26 Antepauta 27 Vilanova de Meià 28 Tartareu 29 Parets d'Ager 30 Terradets 31 Santa Linya 32 Os de Balaguer 34 Montgai 35 El Cogul

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.938750, 1.003164

1.1. Collegats 267 routes in Crag

17 3 15 20 1 4 19 11 2

1 La Terradseta 2 Placa Gramuntill 3 El Niu 4 La pedrera 11 gramuntill 15 L'Argenteria 17 Bresca 19 Cal Nica 20 Portella Inferior

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.270543, 1.018874

1.1.1. La Terradseta 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.281399, 1.037326

description

Shady crag on opposite side of river to La Pedrera

1.1.2. Placa Gramuntill 20 routes in Unknown

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.265440, 1.012143

1.1.3. El Niu 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.296168, 1.033571

description

Gran sector donde predominan grados de V y VI. Vías bonitas entre IV y 7a.

approach

Parking en el área de descanso "Les Morreres", desde ahí avanzar hacia el Sur 200m a la izquierda de la carretera, hacia el túnel, a la izquierda del túnel sale la carretera a seguir. 5min

1.1.4. La pedrera 34 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.280355, 1.037734

1.1.5. Moles del Pessó 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.1.6. Paret del Pessó 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

1.1.7. Agulla del gos 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.1.8. Paret de la Figuereta 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.1.9. Argenteria 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.1.10. Talaies de Baiarri 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.1.11. gramuntill 94 routes in Unknown

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.266290, 1.010401

1.1.12. la figuereta 0 routes in Unknown

1.1.13. carretera vella 0 routes in Unknown

1.1.14. el pessó 0 routes in Unknown

1.1.15. L'Argenteria 24 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.294383, 1.034720

approach

🇪🇸 10 km al norte de La Pobla de Segur. Después de salir del segundo túnel hay una rotonda hacia una zona de aparcamiento a la izquierda. Cruce la carretera y vuelva a caminar por el río a traves de la carretera vieja, hasta que se encuentre frente al prominente rasgo travertino de L'Argenteria. Rutas se enumeran de izquierda a derecha, las últimas rutas están al lado de la carretera.

🇬🇧 10 km north of La Pobla de Segur. After exiting the second tunnel there is a parking area on the left. Cross the road and walk back down river along the old road, until opposite the prominent travertine feature of L'Argenteria. Routes listed left to right, the final routes finishing on the road

1.1.16. peracalç 0 routes in Unknown

1.1.17. Bresca 24 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.311019, 1.068047

history

http://cabacesfree.blogspot.com/2010/08/guia-descalada-collegats-petits-matisos.html

1.1.18. Roca del Diable 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.1.19. Cal Nica 13 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.279418, 1.033333

1.1.20. Portella Inferior 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.290352, 1.037435

summary

Sector de escalada al otro lado del río, enfrente de la zona del Pessó.

description

Bonita placa gris con 14 vías de deportiva abiertas con parabolts, de las cuales 8 tienen más de un largo para hacer en vía larga.

approach

Se precisa una polea de cable grueso para pasar al otro lado del río. Por favor NO USAR MOSQUETONES, desgastan mucho el cable.

ethic

NO USAR MOSQUETONES PARA CRUZAR EL RÍO

history

La primera vía fue la Papillon Bleu (6c+), abierta por P.Romieux y H.Hassot. Más tarde, en 1991 y 1993, se abrieron las vías Mano Negra y Celia.

En 2017 se empezó a reequipar las vías y a abrir la escuela como sector de deportiva. Actualmente todas las vías tienen descuelgue en el primer largo. En algunas vías hará falta algún friend.

1.2. Sopeira 62 routes in Crag

5 3 4 6 7 1

1 El Talló d'Aulet 3 Pic de Sant Cugat 4 Sector Ferrata 5 Presa de Escales 6 Sector El Puente 7 Sector Puente Derecha

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.322257, 0.744870

1.2.1. El Talló d'Aulet 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.319828, 0.738946

1.2.2. Sopeira 0 routes in Crag

1.2.3. Pic de Sant Cugat 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.323379, 0.749801

1.2.4. Sector Ferrata 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.322347, 0.748105

summary

Escuela de escalada a medio pared del Pic de San Cugat, Sopeira.

description

Cuenta con 24 vías de grados comprendidos entre III+ y 6a, con predominancia del V grado. Varias vias estan pensadas para la iniciación, aunque no todas.

Equipamiento:

Casi todas las vías están equipadas con parabolts, aunque también encontraremos spits de 8 mm y puentes de roca. En las vías con spits tener bien claro la resistencia que puedan ofrecer, especialmente pasados unos años. Los puentes de roca están equipados con cordinos, que en poco tiempo se deteriorarán, por lo tanto, será responsabilidad de cada escalador, el ir sustituyéndolos cuando se considere necesario. Llevar siempre una navaja y cordinos de repuesto. Las distancias no son iguales en todos los itinerarios y, lejos de pretender una estandarización en las mismas, existen diferencias intencionadas. Aunque nunca habrá una separación exagerada entre los puntos de seguro, cada escalador deberá valorar su momento. Esto quiere decir que, ni mucho menos, todas las vías están pensadas para impartir cursillos. Aunque con unos cuantos cordinos largos, este problema se soluciona rápidamente.

Toda la información (acceso, reseña...) está extraida de la web:

http://luichy-lanochedelloro2.blogspot.com/2010/03/pic-de-sant-cugat-sector-ferrata.html

approach

Justo antes de la central eléctrica, una evidente canal, nos eleva hasta un pequeño collado. Aquí comienza la vía ferrata. Los dos primeros tramos (que son los que vamos a utilizar para llegar a la base de las vías) están montados con cuerdas estáticas en estado mediocre. Es interesante comprobarlas antes de tirar a saco de ellas. Y si alguien las quiere cambiar, mejor. En unos 20 minutos de ascenso llegaremos a la cómoda y amplia repisa que constituye el pie de vía.

Hay un dibujo aclaratorio en:

http://luichy-lanochedelloro2.blogspot.com/2010/03/pic-de-sant-cugat-sector-ferrata.html

where to stay

Casa Pase, en Sopeira

1.2.5. Presa de Escales 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.325974, 0.744035

1.2.6. Sector El Puente 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.321517, 0.745106

description

Justo antes de entrar al pueblo giras hacia la izquierda hasta llegar al río y junto al puente ya se ve el sector de manera evidente.

Acceso inmediato, aparcar y escalar. Lo único que es un sector de invierno y nos vamos a asar de calor aquí.

1.2.7. Sector Puente Derecha 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.321411, 0.745981

description

A la derecha del sector puente hay un par de zonas con más vias equipadas posteriormente. Encontramos predominancia del 6º grado, pero cuenta también con cuartos y un octavo.

1.3. Serra de Sant Gervas 0 routes in Crag

1.4. Abella de la Conca 242 routes in Crag

6 4 14 7 8 15 12

4 Contra Costera Norte 6 El Forat dels Lladres (The Arches) 7 Canyon Alto 8 Canyon Bajo 12 Voltor + Altiplano 14 Iglesia 15 Roca Viella

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.161770, 1.083296

summary

climbing all year quality of rock beautiful setting wild and peaceful away from the crowds all grades unique in the world sector of 3 consecutive arches

description

200 routes from 3 to 8c+ and many projects 100 routes below 7a Technical climbing on slabs, vertical walls and overhangs Not for the easy tick hunters, just for those enjoying the scenery and just climbing!! Most routes are 30-35m long. Abella Microclimate and crag orientation means its often climbable when terradets (bruixes), collegats or villanova de meia are out of condition.

where to stay

eco refugio on the village square http://facebook.com/abella.climb email: abellaclimb@gmail.com sleeps 15, from 10 euro a night in dorm and 30 euro for double bedroom airport pick up and drop off from 200 euro 1 to 8 people, daily crag transport service for nearby crags from 40 euro a day 1-8 people self catering but half board possibility for group of 6 minimum on request

ethic

no sicka, no chipping

history

first routes equipped amongst other by Jordi Pou Calvet (the Margalef activist!!) and most routes by pep Boixados (rosso) owner of deu dits climbing gym in barcelona, until further development happened mainly by Gee who set up an ecological community nearby (www.ecodharma.com) and Nicolas & Ella the owner of the refugio

1.4.1. moral 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

Mostly vertical and steep slabs from 5+ to 8a+ 0 min approach you could belay from the car on the dirt track

approach

just before reaching the town hall (square white building with recycling bins nearby) before getting to the village, turn right in airpin bend on new tarmac road going uphill, follow boixols sign always taking the left hand option onto tracks

1.4.2. Font de las gotas 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

perfect winter afternoon crag and only climbable in the morning in summer

approach

same as moral

1.4.3. La Costera 47 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

mostly for spring, summer and autumn, some climbs are good in winter from 4+ to 8c+? vertical and overhanging

approach

in the village

history

almost all routes by pep boixados

1.4.4. Contra Costera Norte 29 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.162647, 1.092256

1.4.5. Sector Ferrata 15 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

summary

Newly bolted area below the arches.

1.4.6. El Forat dels Lladres (The Arches) 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.163420, 1.088876

description

incredible rock formation of 3 successive arches grades from 6a+ to 8c+? though its really a high 7/8 crag

approach

access not suitable for kids and dogs from costera continue up following kairns until path gets to T junction, go down to a col and reach via ferrata

history

most routes by Geir Sodeirin

1.4.7. Canyon Alto 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.162333, 1.095504

1.4.8. Canyon Bajo 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.162333, 1.095504

1.4.9. Voltor 0 routes in Sector

1.4.10. Mur Blau 0 routes in Sector

1.4.11. Panorama 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.4.12. Voltor + Altiplano 37 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.160418, 1.086884

1.4.13. Congost 0 routes in Sector

1.4.14. Iglesia 58 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.162448, 1.086924

1.4.15. Roca Viella 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.162312, 1.072663

1.5. Tres Ponts 117 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.252877, 1.348178

summary

Limestone climbing in a gorge that always has a cool wind blowing. Good if it's hot elsewhere.

description

Easy access, low stress climbing in a beautiful location above the river (El Segre). The limestone is different here than elsewhere in the region forming large plates which either create hoofing jugs or hoofing underclings. Bring your biceps!

approach

The approach is easier than described in the Lleida Climbs guidebook thanks to the addition of footbridges. It's now super easy and quick from the carpark.

1.5.1. Main Wall 74 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.5.2. placa d'en marcel 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.5.3. Bon Combat 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

description

Located on the opposite side of the river to the main crag. The first 6 routes are located 20 mts further down the track.

1.5.4. Fontanella 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.6. Serra de Carreu 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.191259, 1.130210

1.7. Serra de Sant Joan 4 routes in Crag

3 2 1

1 Repetidor 2 Sector Central 3 Montanissell

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.199751, 1.213814

1.7.1. Repetidor 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.194078, 1.185256

1.7.2. Sector Central 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.201218, 1.221486

1.7.3. Montanissell 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.204660, 1.244759

1.8. Coll de Nargó 440 routes in Crag

3 20 19 17 16 15 14 8 13 9 7 12 10 6

3 Puck 6 Uriundu 7 Paret del Grau 8 Agulles 9 Coll Piquer 10 Samarkanda 12 Petit 13 Bel Canto 14 Pell Roja 15 Dipòsit 16 Isards 17 d'Abaix 19 Castellassos 20 Maximilians (Sallent)

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.181212, 1.263284

1.8.1. Comalavall 24 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.8.2. No Puc 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.8.3. Puck 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.183429, 1.284323

1.8.4. de l'Ànima 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.8.5. Hort 23 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.8.6. Uriundu 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.175659, 1.293125

1.8.7. Paret del Grau 98 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.176495, 1.297576

1.8.8. Agulles 31 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.177072, 1.304830

1.8.9. Coll Piquer 50 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.176749, 1.306644

1.8.10. Samarkanda 17 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.176476, 1.308398

1.8.11. Del Mig 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.8.12. Petit 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.176652, 1.311219

1.8.13. Bel Canto 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.176800, 1.312046

1.8.14. Pell Roja 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.177085, 1.312607

1.8.15. Dipòsit 27 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.177156, 1.313402

1.8.16. Isards 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.177485, 1.314344

1.8.17. d'Abaix 29 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.177896, 1.315061

1.8.18. del Darrera 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.8.19. Castellassos 25 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.182328, 1.308442

1.8.20. Maximilians (Sallent) 24 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.183429, 1.208885

1.9. Fígols (Organyà) 204 routes in Area

3 4 2 1 5 6 9 7

1 Figols a l'ombra 2 El Collet de Baix 3 Grau de Malhivern 4 Xapat 5 Sòcol de Narieda 6 Observatori 7 Can Sisà o Més 9 Cova de les Gralles

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.217657, 1.380159

1.9.1. Figols a l'ombra 57 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.198076, 1.344893

description

Spectacular climbing in the shade, little sun in the late afternoon.

1.9.2. El Collet de Baix 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.199688, 1.362423

1.9.3. Grau de Malhivern 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.200026, 1.366455

1.9.4. Xapat 53 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.199753, 1.370423

1.9.5. Sòcol de Narieda 22 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.194263, 1.339762

description

Ideal for 7th grade lovers, vertical to overhanging climbing style

approach

Wide path besides the last bit. There you have to follow the fix rope up the short steep path. Then a path is leading to the crag which you already see.

1.9.6. Observatori 17 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.192858, 1.339653

description

A nice shady sector with grades suitable for a wide range of climbers. The sector is well-bolted, especially for the lower grade range.

It is strongly advised that climbers, especially belayers, wear a helmet as this sector is new and, due to the nature of the rock, will never be completely 'clean'.

The crag has shade all day from October to March. For the other months, the sun comes onto the crag at the following times: April-16:30, May-15:30, June-14:30, July-15:30, Aug-16:30, Sept-17:00

approach

You can park at the main Figols car park (flat carpark, suitable for vanlife - with spring water) and hike up the road to the trailhead. It takes 25 minutes to walk from the car park to the crag.

Main car Park: https://goo.gl/maps/HzkWfAMcH9XTdrFUA

Trailhead: https://goo.gl/maps/sTs1z4QYvuFcMQqm8

Crag: https://goo.gl/maps/Tr2Z4RAsG26nzgLe7

If you have a 4x4 capable car it is possible to drive to the trailhead - people do it in other cars but you are really risking a puncture/damaging your car as the road is very rough in places.

history

This sector was developed by Nate Murphy in 2022-2023 Any issues message him here: https://www.thevanconversionguide.com/contact/

1.9.7. Can Sisà o Més 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.184784, 1.333642

1.9.8. Cova Cami d'en Pep 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.9.9. Cova de les Gralles 17 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.186219, 1.335760

summary

Obvious big cave up steep hill. 30 min approach. More than thirty routes.

description

Mostly steep athletic climbing

1.10. Roca Narieda (Organyà) 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 42.189999, 1.343377

summary

200

description

Multi pitches routes on a crag between the 'torre dels esplovins' and 'Obaga Negra' sport area. 8 routes very well equiped. Sport equipement . Very good place to begin multi pitch rockclimbing.

approach

20 minutes from the parking at the foot of the wall.

1.10.1. Cal sisà i més 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.11. Tossal de Balinyó (Canelles) 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.184405, 1.343177

1.11.1. El Solà de Canelles Esquerra 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.12. Torreo i la Rufa (Canelles) 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.187430, 1.353089

1.13. Roc dels Collars (Canelles) 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.191236, 1.373473

1.14. Perles 179 routes in Crag

11 8 9 7 10 5 4 6

4 Roc d'en Solà Dreta 5 La Planxa 6 Agulla de l'Alba 7 Roc d'en Betriu 8 Pont de l'Arc 9 Cristine 10 Blocs 11 Els Roures

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.179643, 1.382585

1.14.1. Totxo del Cabrero 0 routes in Sector

1.14.2. Roc d'en Solà Esquerra 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.14.3. Desplomitis 1 route in Sector

Summary:

1.14.4. Roc d'en Solà Dreta 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.179734, 1.386216

description

Sport routes - about 19 routes (5 to 7a) 2 trad routes (Putas mosques) and (amistad pelijoras) - 4 pitches each. And more multi-pitch.

http://alturgell-xgrane.blogspot.fr/2007/07/roca-de-perles-i-agulla-de-lalba.html

approach

park at the village. cross the road and take a single track to the left. 10 mn walk till the second turn and take a tack to the crag.

1.14.5. La Planxa 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.179961, 1.386300

1.14.6. Agulla de l'Alba 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.179679, 1.386575

description

The free standing spike in from of Roc d'en Solà

1.14.7. Roc d'en Betriu 39 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.180645, 1.388912

description

Sport routes - 39 routes (5 to 8a)

approach

Park at the village. cross the road and take a single track to the left. 10 mn walk till a rigth track after a big boulder with 2 bolts on his face. take a tack to the crag upstair.

1.14.8. Pont de l'Arc 29 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.181460, 1.390148

1.14.9. Cristine 0 routes in Sector

1.14.10. Blocs 0 routes in Sector

1.14.11. Els Roures 54 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.182814, 1.395045

description

Sport routes - 54 routes (4c to 7b) -

http://alturgell-xgrane.blogspot.fr/search/label/Perles

approach

Park at the village. turn to right and follow the road 150m to a field with a barrier. Cross the field and take a track to the crag. 20mn

1.15. Roc de Galliner 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.197065, 1.410006

1.16. Cinglera dels Espluvins 37 routes in Area

6 5 4 3

3 Torre dels Esplovins 4 Sòcol dels Esplovins 5 Paret Bucòlica 6 L'Obaga Negra

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.135235, 1.302770

1.16.1. Esperó Roberto Fernàndez 0 routes in Crag

1.16.2. Esperó de les Orenetes 0 routes in Crag

1.16.3. Torre dels Esplovins 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.133874, 1.305915

1.16.4. Sòcol dels Esplovins 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.135111, 1.308118

approach

https://ca.wikiloc.com/rutes-escalada/sector-escalada-esportiva-del-socol-dels-espluvins-coll-de-nargo-peramola-alt-urgell-46592997

1.16.5. Paret Bucòlica 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.138784, 1.310857

1.16.6. L'Obaga Negra 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.141495, 1.310160

description

An excellent selection of low to mid grade climbs on vertical rock.

approach

Park on the northern end of the bridge. Then walk across the bridge. Continue walking on the road for about 3 minutes then turn right on to a slightly overgrown path up to the crag. You will find the crag to your right after going for 10 minutes uphill.

1.17. Oliana 89 routes in Crag

1 2

1 Sant Honorat 2 Contrafort de Rumbau

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.081451, 1.271870

where to stay

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Apartamento bien ubicado y equipado para 4-6 personas en Peramola. St.Honorat-Contrafort de Rumbau.

Reservations on AirBnB

Ubicación: Frederic Ribó 15, 25790 Peramola

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1.17.1. Sant Honorat 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.080915, 1.268527

1.17.2. Contrafort de Rumbau 86 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.077620, 1.287141

description

The main and mega cliff of the area, an awesomely steep barrel-shaped wall.Winter crag as it is sunny from the morning until almost the end of the day.

approach

First one need to arrive in a hotel called Hotel Restaurant Can Boix De Peramola. Just before the entrance of the hotel, there is a dirty road on the right. Take this road for a bit more of 1km and you will see a small path to go up to the crag on your left. You can also see the crag on your left.The access by walk is 5 min.

1.18. Cubells - l'Indret 18 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.867216, 0.955835

1.19. Cubells 67 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.872714, 0.985065

description

Can be seen from the "C-26" when driving towards Cubells from Artesa de Segre

access issues

The access track (off the C-26) is between the 42km and 43km posts.

approach

Approximately 1.7km east of Cubells, turn north off the "C-26" onto an unsurfaced road. Follow this up the hillside without deviation for 1.2km to a parking area where the track deteriorates noticeably. Follow a foot pad up and right. The first cliff reached is "For Fred" (roughly 10min from the car)

1.19.1. For Fred & Foradat 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

approach

First approach after leaving the car (10min)

1.19.2. Sector del Duc & Placa Gran 28 routes in Sector

Summary:

approach

15min from the car

1.19.3. Braille & Petit 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

16min from the car

1.20. Camarasa 682 routes in Crag

24 13 22 1 2 21 3 15 4 23 7 16 14 8 20 9 17 19 10 11 18 5 6 12

1 El Puro 2 Lo Sabardó 3 Paret dels Heretges 4 La Pera 5 Fashion 6 La Selva 7 Marcant Estil 8 San Juan 9 La Font 10 La Blanca 11 Kuestelon la France 12 Crestes de conill 13 Dispensari 14 Mongetae 15 Perrankot 16 Cingle de la Llum 17 Capricho del vicho 18 Dexter 19 La Cova de l’Escaleta 20 Solarium 21 El Túnel 22 Paret del davant 23 Paret de les Gralles 24 El Doll

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.911585, 0.885369

summary

Camarasa is a hotspot for limestone sport and trad climbing, offering both very easy and very hard routes in both disciplines.

description

Camarasa is one of the most elaborate climbing areas around Lleida. What started out as a paradise for fifth and sixth grade traditional and mixed climbs, has now become a perfect holiday or weekend destination for all sport and trad climbers. The long multipitch trad routes are mainly found on the higher areas of Mont Roig. Sport climbers can stick closer to the roads and, ahtough a couple accesible trad routes and hard to reach but wortwhile sport routes are the example. Many areas are being rebolted with stainless steel expansion bolts and many others have already been taken care of. Harder to reach or less popular routes can still be equiped with older and less reliable gear (so called spits, burrilles or clavos).

approach

Most areas are reached by following the road that passes the village to the north and proceding straight on a secondary road where the main road takes a steep left and crosses a bridge over the river. Las crestas are reached by crossing the bridge and taking a dirty road on the left hand side just past the bridge.

where to stay

There are some bed and breakfasts in both Camarasa and the nearby Sant Llorenc, there is a climbers lodge in Camarasa and there's a very big camping near Sant Llorenc. Although free camping is not allowed in Spain, locals have no problem with people spending the night in campers, vans or tents next to the local tennis court (coordinates 41,8738091, 0,8732390). Local climbers meet at San Pere's bar next to the main road at the foot of the hillside,.

ethic

There's a community of climbers who've invested many years in bolting, rebolting and maintaining the rock around Camarasa. At the bar, ask for Luichy, Marmolejo, Pete O’Donovan, Albert Cortés or Roger to get into contact with the local climbers if you're looking to (re)bolt.

1.20.1. El Puro 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.905379, 0.891501

description

A popular rock pillar next to the hydroelectric dam, with some mixed trad and sport routes.

approach

Park next to the dam at the end of the road and walk back in the direction of Camarasa. There's a path leading up to the pillar in the first bend of the road.

descent notes

Rap down.

1.20.2. Lo Sabardó 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.905072, 0.891141

1.20.3. Paret dels Heretges 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.904509, 0.890764

1.20.4. La Pera 23 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.904044, 0.890230

description

Well developed sport climbing in the shade of big pillar. Can be chilly in a strong breeze!

1.20.5. Fashion 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.899005, 0.887696

description

Well developed sport climbing.

1.20.6. La Selva 36 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.898690, 0.886682

description

Well developed sport climbing.

1.20.7. Marcant Estil 93 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.903073, 0.888632

description

The most popular sector, because it literally is next to the road. Offers very easy to moderate sport climbs.

approach

When leaving the main road that crosses the bridge and continuing down the secondary road, pass the abandoned dam workers' houses and drive on past the first parking spots (sector Kuestelon) untill the road widens on the side of the rock face. Hard to miss.

1.20.8. San Juan 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.902124, 0.888169

description

Sector muy bueno para iniciación, añadiendo algo de más dificultad también.

approach

Actualmente se accede caminando por la carretera junto al río, se aparca en la barrera.

1.20.9. La Font 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.901167, 0.888355

1.20.10. La Blanca 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.900233, 0.887544

1.20.11. Kuestelon la France 83 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.899638, 0.885627

description

Well developed sport climbing. Popular and therefore a bit polished.

1.20.12. Crestes de conill 68 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.880798, 0.873335

description

The obvious clean walls that are the first thing you see from the village. A very sunny south face offers easy vertical and slab climbing, on rougher pocketed rock, the north side offers shade and harder climbs on smoother crimpy routes

approach

Las crestas are reached by either A) heading from Camarasa towards San Llorenç. Immediately after crossing the reservoir continue on a dirt road north. The last 50 m up a rise need higher clearance. Contour to the base of the crest. The track for the via Ferrata and and the Topis des crestes goes straight up the hill. B) Head north from Camarasa and immediately after the bridge across the river take a dirt road on the left towards the north face.

descent notes

Rap down.

1.20.13. Dispensari 28 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.906494, 0.893846

description

This sector had a lot of sport routes removed when the steel walking bridge was built.

1.20.14. Mongetae 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.902212, 0.887178

description

One of the areas on 'the opposite side of the river'. You'll find well equipped sport routes that reach up to 35m. A pocket fest!

approach

Follow the main road going north from Camarasa, cross the bridge, go through the tunnel and park in one of the small spots on the dam. Walk back through the tunnel, go down a ladder on the left hand side. Walk along the rock face (sector El Tunel) untill you see a path leading down on the right hand side that has a couple of ropes installed along the way and leads to the sector and.

descent notes

Rap down

history

This area was established in the nineties but was rebolted in 2019.

1.20.15. Perrankot 0 routes in Cliff

1.20.16. Cingle de la Llum 34 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.902938, 0.889995

description

Well preserved, not too polished sport climbing. Topo: http://jesusalmarza.blogspot.com/2013/09/camarasa-cingles-de-la-llum-deportiva.html

1.20.17. Capricho del vicho 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.900678, 0.888979

1.20.18. Dexter 18 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.899513, 0.888062

description

Well equiped and popular sport climbing. Pockety.

1.20.19. La Cova de l’Escaleta 32 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.900151, 0.880168

description

http://www.lleidaclimbs.com/2018/01/camarasa-major-new-sector-major-new.html

approach

From Camarasa, park after the second tunnel. To get to climbing zone, you need accros the tunnels, at the exit of the longest tunnel (the second from the parking) in the right margin of the road starts the path to climbing zone.

1.20.20. Solarium 84 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.901600, 0.883758

approach

Exiting the southern tunnel from the southern side, talk a path on the right hand side and follow it for about 10 to 15 minutes.

1.20.21. El Túnel 52 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.904617, 0.887801

description

A relatively new sector on the west side of the river.

approach

Leave your car on the northwest side of the tunnel, walk back down the tunnel, go down a ladder on the left hand side and you're at the bottom of the cliff.

descent notes

Rap down.

1.20.22. Paret del davant 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.905901, 0.889304

description

A more secluded and underdeveloped cliff with great potential.

1.20.23. Paret de les Gralles 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.903291, 0.900618

description

Large cliff with mainly completely traditional and semi-equiped routes.

approach

You can drive a 4x4 to the eremita/chapel on top of the hill and beyond. Follow a small trail with stone markers to the cliff edge untill you find a big pile of rocks that indicates an anchor. Three rappels (40m, 40m, 20m) will bring you to the foot of the cliff. Alternately, find a small trail from the parking near Marcant Estil and walk up (about 1h?).

1.20.24. El Doll 32 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.945512, 0.852495

1.21. Sant Llorenç de Montgai 182 routes in Area

8 4 7 6 1 5 11 10 3 9

1 La Formiguera 3 Kurtika 4 Disblia 1 & 2 5 El Cilindre 6 Xinxetes & Clasificado 7 Esperó Remacha 8 Paret de I'Os 9 Trasparet 10 Yosemixtir 11 Agulles de l'Isard

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.871040, 0.846647

1.21.1. La Formiguera 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.873858, 0.839267

1.21.2. Pared del Pont 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

1.21.3. Kurtika 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.870846, 0.858778

1.21.4. Disblia 1 & 2 21 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.874781, 0.842273

description

Two hard sport caves up on the hill side

approach

10 min walk

1.21.5. El Cilindre 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.873815, 0.844245

1.21.6. Xinxetes & Clasificado 21 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.874251, 0.845819

description

The big wall right of El Cilindre

approach

10 min walk.

1.21.7. Esperó Remacha 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.874535, 0.847375

description

A couple easy multi-pitch climbs.

approach

Right next to the road.

1.21.8. Paret de I'Os 57 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.874778, 0.849289

description

Smooth and sandbagged wall just above the road.

approach

1min.

1.21.9. Trasparet 30 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.867676, 0.863800

1.21.10. Yosemixtir 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.871120, 0.840897

1.21.11. Agulles de l'Isard 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.872287, 0.841955

1.22. Barranc Fondo 0 routes in Crag

1.23. Mont Roig 41 routes in Crag

2

2 Ermita de Montalegre

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.893430, 0.842499

1.23.1. Ermita de Montalegre 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.893929, 0.825347

summary

A climbing area next to the small chapel.

1.24. Alòs de Balaguer 94 routes in Crag

3 4 2 1

1 El Balcó del Segre 2 L'Estret 3 Barranc de Sant Marti 4 Cal Cari

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.918239, 0.957438

summary

The climbing in Alòs is very varied

description

The climbing in Alòs is very varied, ranging from the pleasant, 'friendly' routes of sectors Cal Cari and El Rachel Segre to the fiercely steep tufts of El Balcó del Segre and the impressively long and adventurous pitches on the recently developed walls of Barranc de Sant Marti, tucked away in a deep valley above the village. Most sectors face south or southwest and are sheltered from cold northerly winds, factors making winter the ideal time to climb here.

Information on this crag is from 'Llieda Climbs' by Pete O'Donovan and Dani Andrada

ethic

Cleanup after yourself,

history

This delightful stretch of the Segre valley near the village of Alòs de Balaguer offers a beautiful setting in which to climb. The river meanders through groves of poplar trees, overlooked by steep cliffs and the ruins of Castell de Rubió (an important Arabic stronghold in medieval Spain) while the village itself is extremely pleasant.

1.24.1. El Balcó del Segre 17 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.908351, 0.996902

approach

Park in a lay-by on the narrow road running between the villages of Alòs de Balaguer and Baldomar, approximately 3.3km from Alòs, Find the small climbers trail marked with a cairn, follow up the hillside to the sector (5min) Fixed ropes aid access to the 'Balcony' below the higher routes.

1.24.2. L'Estret 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.910550, 0.993133

approach

Approximately 3km from the village there is a lay-by. From here follow a steep trail up to the cliffs (10min). Most routes require scrambling aided by fixed ropes in the final few meters of the approach making the sector unsuitable for non-climbers and dogs.

1.24.3. Barranc de Sant Marti 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.932112, 0.946913

approach

On entering Alòs de Balaguer (from the east) turn immediately right and follow a narrow road heading towards the upper part of the village. After approximately 650m the road swings sharply left. Turn right here onto an unsurfaced track, signposted 'San Mamet', follow this for approximately 1.5km to park about 120m before a sharp left-hand bend. follow a vague trail diagonally downhill, marked by cairns, then cross the dry streambed and continue uphill heading towards the cliff (20min). the path is hard to follow in places but if in doubt, keep high. A narrow terrace runs along the sector about 10m above the ground, from which all the routes commence. care is needed when walking along and belaying from this ledge system, which is not a safe place for children.

descent notes

An 80m rope is required for certain routes here

1.24.4. Cal Cari 25 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.914456, 0.947217

approach

From the T-junction in the village drive approximately 450m along the road towards the village of Rubió del mig, to reach a bridge crossing the Segre. Immediately before the bridge turn right onto an unsurfaced track, known as the Cami del Solà, and follow this for approximately 300m to parking spaces on the left. On foot, follow a wide grassy track up and leftwards through the terraces then continue on a narrower path to the base of the left hand part of the sector (3min). Some routes are situated on a separate buttress some 150m up and right of the lower wall.

1.24.5. Racó del Segre 25 routes in Sector

Summary:

approach

From the T-junction in the village drive approximately 450m along the road towards the village of Rubió del mig, to reach a bridge crossing the Segre. Immediately before the bridge turn right onto an unsurfaced track, known as the Cami del Solà, drive to where it ends, approximately 3km from the road. On foot, continue following a well-marked path into the narrowing gorge, passing over a metal walkway just above the river at one point. Approximately 850m from the parking area and just before the path enters a narrow gully (there is currently a small wooden plaque marked with a red number '6' fastened to a small tree here) turn left and follow a vague trail heading down towards the river and then parallel with it, to reach the base of the sector, which is only visible at the very last moment (15min).

descent notes

Although this sector faces almost due south, the narrowness and depth of the gorge at this point prevents the low winter sun from reaching the wall completely from early November until late February, meaning the only viable months to climb here are September/October and March/April.

1.25. La Pauta 43 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.960944, 0.998033

description

Compact vertical limestone. Best climbed on warm and sunny winter days.

approach

Make your way to the village of Baldomar and follow the sign for La Clua and later take a left in direction of Vall d'Ariet. Continue on the dirt road until you reach the parking (41.959444, 0.999722).

You already see the cliuff, follow the well marked trail to reach it.

history

Initially developed in the late 1980's but then forgotten. Rediscovered, re-bolted and extended in 2007 by local climbers.

1.26. Antepauta 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.951484, 1.008560

description

A nice alternative for evening climbing on warmer days.

approach

Make your way to the village of Baldomar and follow the sign for La Clua and later take a left in direction of Vall d'Ariet to reach the parking (41.948333, 1.010556).

From there follow the well marked path in direction of the cliff. Cross the river bed to reach it.

1.27. Vilanova de Meià 571 routes in Crag

5 6 4 3 2 1 7 8

1 rúbies 2 Mirador del Montsec 3 Zona roca alta 4 Zona roca dels Arcs 5 final del congost 6 pas nou/pilar del segre 7 Zaratustra-Font Blanca 8 cogulló-font figuera-font de l'edra

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 42.021018, 0.998825

summary

Airy multipitch climbing in the sun.

description

Reading the guidebook, it would be easy to underestimate the climbing here. Don't think, well, we'll start up one of these multipitches after lunch, link a few pitches, top out, wander down and still have time for some single pitch sport climbing at La Cupola. The routes on Roca dels Arcs are serious undertakings, often undergraded. Be prepared, start early, take helmets, water, warm clothes, prussiks and headtorches.

1.27.1. rúbies 25 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.020325, 0.976206

1.27.2. Mirador del Montsec 51 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.021120, 0.979946

1.27.3. Zona roca alta 57 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.021918, 1.011702

1.27.4. Zona roca dels Arcs 123 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 42.024061, 1.028584

1.27.5. final del congost 34 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.027964, 1.026439

1.27.6. pas nou/pilar del segre 149 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 42.026328, 1.035007

1.27.7. Zaratustra-Font Blanca 59 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 42.019425, 1.044177

1.27.8. cogulló-font figuera-font de l'edra 73 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.018273, 1.033627

1.28. Tartareu 71 routes in Crag

4 3 2 1

1 Tempura/Bombo Suis 2 Anime Negra 3 L’Obsessio de Tibar 4 Jet Lag - Guacamole

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.928589, 0.712038

summary

Shade in the afternoon in summer. Steep and often overhanging sports climbing on limestone. The rock can be a little loose but the climbing is good.

description

Limestone Sports Climbing.

approach

Drive to Tartareu village. The crag can be seen beyond the village. Drive through village on narrow road low in the village. About 200 metres on other side of village take right turn up dirt track which is signposted Cova dels Vilars, there is also a building at the corner of this junction. A kilometres and a half up this track you will find the first access path that cuts back left. Park on track/dirt road. Other paths start further up the dirt road with a cairn at the furthermost.

ethic

Sports climbing crag

1.28.1. Tempura/Bombo Suis 32 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.926571, 0.712970

description

Initial crag with steep roof section.

1.28.2. Anime Negra 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.927363, 0.712394

description

Up hill from Tempura/Bombo Suis and next to each other.

1.28.3. L’Obsessio de Tibar 0 routes in Cliff

description

Another 100 metres up the hill from Anima Negra

1.28.4. Jet Lag - Guacamole 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.930728, 0.710866

description

The other side after where the cliff breaks down another 100 metres up the hill.

approach

Park a further 500 metre up the hill. Two paths switch back on the road you park on take the path that forks right.

1.28.5. Cavall de Troia 0 routes in Sector

1.29. Parets d'Ager 110 routes in Crag

5 1 2 4

1 Camp 300 2 Barranc de Grillons 4 Puig de Millà 5 Castell de Sant Llorenç

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.024805, 0.718691

1.29.1. Camp 300 39 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.037521, 0.745910

1.29.2. Barranc de Grillons 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.029937, 0.756917

1.29.3. Cap de Ras 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

1.29.4. Puig de Millà 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.998505, 0.660399

1.29.5. Castell de Sant Llorenç 37 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.042067, 0.697066

summary

Lovely and beautiful crag on mostly very good rock. Some quite long routes. Base of the wall is very beautiful with lots of trees. Bolts range from new stainless glue-ins to old and rusty.

access issues

Very long and very bumpy dirt road. Only driveable when dry. 4x4 helps but is not necessary.

approach

Drive up the road from Àger towards the astronomy center. Stay on this road for some kilometers (don't take the exit towards the astronomy center) until there's a sign to the left for the Castell. Follow the dirt road for a few kilometers. Park at the old stone house, after passing a bing water tank.

1.29.6. Puntals d'Ager 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

approach

Walk straight up from the road below.

1.30. Terradets 274 routes in Crag

14 13 2 1 11 10 12 7 3 8 4 5 9 15 6 17 18 19 16 20 21

1 Paret de les Arcades 2 Paret del Gres 3 Paret de les Bruixes 4 Monsetes 5 Les Bruixes De Dalt 6 Cova Dels Bastons 7 Tarzoom 8 Roca Regina 9 Sector Regina 10 Roca Rossa 11 Obaga de Peguera 12 Agulla del Torrent del Bosc 13 Castellot de Moror 14 Picons del pla d'Auberó 15 El Túnel 16 El Peladet 17 La Pizarra 18 Paret de les Bagasses 19 Amanita 20 Els Isards 21 El Laboratori

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.044437, 0.880149

description

Most well known these days for the sector Paret de les Bruixes (the Witches Wall) offering superb hard sport climbing, Terradets has much more to offer in terms of easier climbing and multipitches.

where to stay

Sleeping in the train station is no longer allowed. There is a nearby refugio in Cellers which enables walking to the climbing. Hotel Terradets is also in Cellers but is rather expensive. If you are willing to drive 30 minutes each day there are nice places to rent in nearby villages.

history

Actually Terradets is known for it's hard sports routes in the Paret de les Bruixes, but this is an historic place, a major symbol of other times, the eighties, when the objective were the long climbs, clearly more difficult than the older ones (but easy for today), which made necessary the bolting from above, for the first time in Spain (1980).

The first route (of all the non-Pyrenees area...) was set in 1959, following a not much attractive line, but the possible one. It didn't have much "calling effect". The zone had to wait until the beginnig of the 70s to be interesting, and in that time some routes were set following the cracks, corners, and dihedrals, with much aid climbing. The jewel of that time is the CADE (a section of a club), today maybe the most polished route in Spain...

But this wall (Baggases wall) had a little problem... the rock is very compact and there is a lack of good cracks for gear (at least for the gear available is Spain)... and the solution was a bit revolutionary and polemic...the bolting from above!

In a few years, the wall was filled with a lot of routes bolted from above in the range 6a-6c, becoming one of the milestones at that time. As a counterpart, very few new routes from 1995 or so.

Behind this wall, there is another one with a history a bit different, here the rock offers more possibilities for aid climbing or mixed climbing, so the routes were opened from below, is the classic way, up to A4+, basically in the '80's.

After that, in the 90s, the sports routes were developed,that have given a new name to this zone. Actually, new routes are added to the walls that were a bit forgotten in ancient times.

1.30.1. Paret de les Arcades 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.054071, 0.890911

1.30.2. Paret del Gres 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.054134, 0.893462

1.30.3. Paret de les Bruixes 64 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.047719, 0.897132

description

Steep wall with a variety of routes in the 7s and 8s. A few 6s can be found off to the sides. In the shade until 2ish in Spring.

approach

Park a bit before KM-71, walk towards the dam to reach a set of rungs on your left. Follow clear path up until you reach a cement wall, walk right along the cement wall until you reach the path again and follow it up to the wall.

1.30.4. Monsetes 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.046798, 0.897887

1.30.5. Les Bruixes De Dalt 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.046187, 0.898149

1.30.6. Cova Dels Bastons 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.043168, 0.899996

1.30.7. Tarzoom 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.048567, 0.890651

1.30.8. Roca Regina 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 42.047137, 0.887218

1.30.9. Sector Regina 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.044726, 0.888305

1.30.10. Roca Rossa 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.051497, 0.872896

1.30.11. Obaga de Peguera 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.052925, 0.852319

1.30.12. Agulla del Torrent del Bosc 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.050502, 0.864369

1.30.13. Castellot de Moror 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.057347, 0.832756

1.30.14. Picons del pla d'Auberó 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.063728, 0.795174

1.30.15. El Túnel 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.042998, 0.890440

1.30.16. El Peladet 23 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.033182, 0.897878

1.30.17. La Pizarra 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.040069, 0.888449

1.30.18. Paret de les Bagasses 61 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 42.039835, 0.882612

1.30.19. Amanita 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 42.036625, 0.872381

1.30.20. Els Isards 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.028628, 0.888234

description

Attention closed for bird breeding between 1st January and 31st of July!!

1.30.21. El Laboratori 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.025759, 0.895953

1.31. Santa Linya 162 routes in Crag

6 5 1

1 Futbolín 5 Cova Gran 6 Barranc de Fontfreda

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.928636, 0.798693

summary

Santa Linya is the testing ground for hard sport climbing in Spain, especially the cave Cova Gran.

ethic

Cova Gran is also a archeological site, please behave respectfully and observe climbing limitations.

1.31.1. Futbolín 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.924274, 0.779560

description

A little warm up wall on the way to Cova Gran. Not the best rock but a couple of fun routes if you can't climb in the mega cave.

approach

Park in the old soccer field on the left side of the road on your way to Santa linya.

1.31.2. futbolin intermig 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.31.3. futbolin carretera 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.31.4. Corral del Nico 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.31.5. Cova Gran 90 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.925890, 0.811449

description

The main reason to come to Santa Linya!!! With routes up to 9b and some being 50m long the is the place for hard climbing. There is a couple of easy-ish routes but the business starts at 7b.

approach

Drive toward Santa Linya then take the new tar road marked toward Cova Gran. 10 min walk from the car park.

1.31.6. Barranc de Fontfreda 14 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.928709, 0.819863

1.32. Os de Balaguer 79 routes in Crag

2 1

1 Paret Nord 2 Paret Sur

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.871905, 0.709956

description

An open canyon with north and south facing walls.

approach

From C-12 road, take the exit towards Os de Balaguer (L-910) until you reach the town. Turn left towards Tartareu and Cova dels Vilars, continue until leaving town. Then follow the signs for Cova dels Vilars until the parking (dirt road). Walk towards the cave but drop down left into canyon at a gap in the fence

1.32.1. Paret Nord 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.871869, 0.710712

1.32.2. Paret Sur 63 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.872071, 0.709530

1.33. Rajadell 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.33.1. Roques de Can Maçana 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.34. Montgai 34 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.815206, 0.966157

summary

Small bouldering area near the town of Montgai

description

Map/topo/resennyes/reseñas here http://urgellvertikal.blogspot.com/2009/06/shit-mountain-montgai.html

1.34.1. Cigró 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

1.34.2. Rata Sellarda 12 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.34.3. Sostre 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.34.4. Bloc Partit 12 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.35. El Cogul 209 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.460929, 0.723293

summary

Bouldering area near El Cogul

description

See Lleida climbs guide for map/topo/ressenyes/reseñas

1.35.1. El Doctorat 32 routes in Field

Summary:

1.35.2. El Comallà 8 routes in Field

Summary:

1.35.3. Mestre Mutent 23 routes in Field

Summary:

1.35.4. Beer Action 31 routes in Field

Summary:

1.35.5. Totxo Mali 13 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.35.6. Lo Pallars 22 routes in Field

Summary:

1.35.7. Els Camps 15 routes in Field

Summary:

1.35.8. El Turonet 29 routes in Field

Summary:

1.35.9. Els Ulls 24 routes in Field

Summary:

1.35.10. The Office 12 routes in Field

Summary: