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Hoya Moros

  • Grade context: FB
  • Photos: 6
  • Ascents: 70
  • Aka: Hoyamoros

Access: Pista forestal

Del 1 de julio al 1 de octubre queda TOTALMENTE PROHIBIDO el tránsito de vehículos por la pista forestal de la dehesa de Candelario para facilitar el acceso a los servicios de emergencias.

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Created about two years ago

Seasonality

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Summary

High quality boulders in a mystical environment with endless potential make this one of the best bouldering areas in Spain. This valley of blocks is located at 2200m ASL, thus spring to fall are best.

Description

A huge, huge field of great boulders in the Sierra de Candelario! More than 1000 problems await you in this breathtaking environment. Obviously, with so many options, there is soemthing for everyone but especially also for the hard movers with lots of boulders in the 8th grade.

While unaccessible in winter, the season starts when the snow melts in spring and lasts till the snow comes back in late fall.

A detailed topo guide of the area has been published by Nodogmaclimbing.

Approach

From Candelario drive towards La Sierra and continue for a few kilometers until arriving at El Travieso or second platform. This is the car park where you leave the car (40.335403, -5.732391).

From there continue walking along a path that starts at the bottom of this car park and is well marked with cairns. After about 800 meters take the first path to the left, aigain marked with cairns. Continue gently ascending towards the first stream that you will see on your left. Cross it to the right and continue along the well-marked path heading south, flattening about 400m, then, climbing gently, with the reference of climbing a very steep gulley that is clearly visible, (the Canal del Canterón). Climb it (about 50m) and continue in a SW direction through a plain and then go down gently for about one kilometer until you reach Hoya Moros.

Where to stay

Camping is prohibited but there is a small stone bivoauc for those that want / need to spend a night. There are several options in Candelario.

Acampar está prohibido, pero hay pequeños vivacs para quien desee pasar la noche. En Candelario encontraremos bastantes opciones.

Ethic

1-No hacer fuego, está totalmente PROHIBIDO 2-No dejar basura. Todo lo que sube con nosotros también baja, y si encontráis basura no la dejéis tirada tampoco aunque no sea vuestra. 3-No lavar en el río con jabón 4-No bañarse en el río con jabón 5-Respetar el ganado. Esto incluye que quien lleve perros los debe tener controlados.

History

History timeline chart

Antiguamente los escaladores salmantinos subían a realizar clásicas y en sus descansos se dedicaban a hacer estos “bordillos”. Mariano López (Cuco) fue realizó todo el trabajo de la limpieza y apertura de caminos (y a día de hoy sigue limpiándolos) para que en vez de tardar las 3h de antaño, el acceso sea mucho más fácil.

En 2022 Hoyamoros a pasado a formar parte del monte público gracias a la compra por parte de la Conserjería de Medio Ambiente de la Junta de Castilla y León tras muchas reivindicaciones y recogidas de firma por parte de distintos colectivos como escaladores, alpinistas, montañeros, trail runners…

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Luis Alonso and Mariano López

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9788498296518

A comprehensive guidebook describing the bouldering at Hoyamoros, in the central, western region of Spain, covering over 1,000 boulder problems split across 16 sectors.

Author(s): Mariano López

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9788498294187

A selective guidebook describing the bouldering in 9 areas in the western Gredos Mountains. It covers over 2,500 routes at La Dehesa, Agua Dulce, El Puertecito (La Muela), El Travieso, Pena de la Cruz, Valdesangil, Vallejera, La Hoya and Becedas.

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Tue 9 May
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