A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Warning
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
olivier Bernii Brendan Heywood Valentyn Kotelnikov Will Sjors DS Nick Weicht Yannick Vincent Sergey Dashkevich
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Datça
322 in Crag
-
1.1.
Indian Man / Sleeping Indian 160 in Cliff
- 1.1.1. Sektor Ay 10 in Cliff
- 1.1.2. Ejderha 13 in Cliff
- 1.1.3. Can Baba 57 in Cliff
- 1.1.4. Uzak Zürafa 30 in Cliff
- 1.1.5. Shaman 35 in Cliff
- 1.1.6. Papinosaure 6 in Cliff
- 1.1.7. Nastrolopitheque 9 in Cliff
- 1.2. Çocuklar 8 in Cliff
- 1.3. Karia Yolu 2 in Cliff
- 1.4. Aslama 9 in Cliff
- 1.5. Domuzbükü 14 in Cliff
- 1.6. Karain 16 in Cliff
- 1.7. Sucuk 21 in Cliff
- 1.8. Balık 18 in Cliff
- 1.9. Hızırşah 13 in Cliff
- 1.10. L'Oeil du Cyclope 12 in Cliff
- 1.11. Yenikale 9 in Cliff
-
1.12.
Canyon / Kocadağ Kanyonu 36 in Crag
- 1.12.1. Bombé 6 in Cliff
- 1.12.2. Les Frouzes 22 in Cliff
- 1.12.3. Indirim 5 in Cliff
- 1.12.4. Icefall 3 in Cliff
- 1.13. Emecik 4 in Cliff
-
1.1.
Indian Man / Sleeping Indian 160 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Datça 322 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.751061, 27.682735
- Fly into Dalaman and take a taxi bus leaving almost after every flight arriving (2 to 3 hours).
- Fly into Bodrum and take a short ferry ride over to Datça. Be sure to check the schedule as the ferry runs not every day during winter.
- Fly to Izmir and drive to Datça which will take between 4 and 5 hours.
- Drive from Antalya (about 5 hours drive along the coast), a great option if you also plan on climbing in Geyikbayırı.
- Take a ferry from Kalymnos, Greece to Bodrum and from there to Datça (check if the ferry is running as the schedule varies depending on the season).
summary
Datça is often called the new Turkish gem in the climbing press. Tufa-rich limestone cliffs and a beautiful coastline offer everything your heart desires for a climbing trip.
description
Here you can download the official climbing guide book for Datça for free.
Datça is often called the new Turkish gem in the climbing press. Tufa-rich limestone cliffs and a beautiful coastline offer everything your heart desires for a climbing trip.
Climbing ranges from easy grades bolted for beginners and kids to the highest grades in steep caves including some multi-pitch routes. The rock quality is extraordinary and sectors offer all orientations making climbing possible all year. That being said, the best time to come to Datça is fall to spring. Early fall and late spring may require you to chase the shade while winter can become unpleasantly cold with northerly winds, but there is always this sunny crag that makes climbing pleasant even on the worst of days. As many of the sectors are steep (or below tall overhangs), climbing is often possible in the rain that typically is more frequent starting late December to February. Some of the tufa lines might become wet in January but then again, the choice is so big that you will always find some dry rock.
Most of the crags around Datça are just a few minutes away from the city. The main crag and the reason for many to visit Datça is Indian Man with its impressive main cave called Can Baba. Even if you spend most of your time up there don’t forget to explore some of the other sectors as well.
Indian Man with its sectors Uzak Zurafa, Can Baba, Ejderha, Ay, Shaman, Papynosaure and Nastrolopitheque holds about two thirds of the routes around Datça and there are literally all styles of climbing and grade ranges at your disposition. Opposite of Indian Man is the small sector Çocuklar (“kids”) which is great for beginners and kids with very well bolted lines. Just a bit further up the road from Indian Man are the “morning sectors” for hotter days called Domuzbükü, Karain (another small cave), and Sucuk and the multi-pitch cliff Karia Yolu. Across the valley of Sucuk is the short and bouldery sector of Balık and on the north side of Indian Man is the small sector Yenikale, another good destination for hotter days. Located above the village of Hızırşah is the sector with the same name. An ideal cliff for hot days as it is oriented north and well ventilated. On the north side of the peninsula is the area called canyon with several sectors. The drive alone is worth the visit and you will encounter great, hard and long lines that see little traffic there. The sector Les Frouzes is amongst the most impressive cliffs on the peninsula and the potential for more developments is endless. This is also true for the small sector of Emecik east of Datça that offers vertical climbing on chert and offers amazing views on cold and windy days.
Rest Day Activities
Datça offers plenty of activities for rest days. For those who want to explore the coast check out any of the sections of the Carian Trail, a 820km long distance hiking trail mostly following the coast in south-western Turkey. You can jump on it from almost anywhere on the Datça peninsula and it will take you to secluded beaches and through a great country side at any stretch you pick. Easiest is to just start out west of Datça but all sections further west and on the northern coast of the peninsula are beautiful.
For those with a taste of history drive west to Knidos and visit the ruins but don’t forget to enjoy the views and take a short hike to the lighthouse. Stop on the way and buy honey, almonds or olives from a local farmer.
Go kite-surfing in Gökova (between Marmaris and Muğla), one of the most famous kite-surfing spots worldwide. It can be quite crowded though.
Hang out on the beach, try Pembe Beach (pink beach) to start with. Continue the road from Domuzbükü left until it heads east and then take the first right that takes you down on a winding road to the beach. This is also a nice entry point for the Carian Trail that you can hike from there to the east or west.
Another great place to explore for those that enjoy lost places is Mersincik on the north western end of the peninsula. Drive to Cumalı and take a right. This rather rough road will take you high up and then down to the northern coast. Hike east from there to find amazing beaches and plenty of cliffs that wait to be developed!
If you need help with anything around Datça contact local guide Aykut Özalp or +905383285657
approach
You may reach Datça by various means and via different destinations:
where to stay
The best place to stay near the main climbing areas is Datça Base Camp. It offers camping and a few bungalows to rent and some space for caravans. It is also a good place to meet other climbers and to obtain the latest beta.
A pension near the climbing area is Art Olive - 0532 228 00 96
Alternatively, check one of the many pensions or boutique hotels in Datça and rent a scooter or car to move around.
ethic
You are in a mediterranean environment with sometimes strong winds and dry forrests. It is absolutely forbidden to make fires or camp in the nature. Any wrong doing might result in closing of this beautiful climbing spot!
New bolting should only be done using stainless steel glue-in bolts!
history
Datça is a relatively recent addition on the climbing map. The area was discovered by olivier, a Swiss mountain guide, who also did most of the development in the years 2013 to 2016 with the support of climbers from France, Turkey and elsewhere. You will read many names in the route history in this guide but to name a few of the most prolific bolters there are Adrien Boulon, Nicolas Nastorg, Emrah Özbay, Zorbey Aktuyun, Evren Kirazli, Yvan Muscat, Werner Luneau, Fabrice Pini, Aykut Knidost, Rafsta, Lucien Abbet and Klemen Becan.
Most of the bolting was financed by Olivier Nicolet, Adrien Boulon and Yvan Muscat and through generous donations by climbers such as Fabrice Pini, Claudia Schrotter and Pierre Morand.
A big thank you goes to Sumeyra Çakiroglu, Faruk Yavuz, Kurtulus Canbey and Yasin Kolasin who helped dealing with local authorities and in so many ways with the development of climbing in Datça.
1.1. Indian Man 160 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.725082, 27.619802
description
Do you see the head? Legend has it that two brothers were fighting on the Datça peninsula. To stop the fighting, the father laid down between the 2, separating the peninsula and creating peace. Today, we just see his face when driving towards Datça...
Indian Man is the epicenter of climbing in Datça with multiple sectors and hundreds of routes in all grades. The cave of Can Baba, for many the reason to visit Datça, can be found here as well as Uzak Zürafa with its many long and mostly easier routes. Cold days are great for the sectors Shaman, Papinosaure and Nastrolopitheque.
For those who love a short approach check out Sektor Ay at the bottom of the valley. A sunny cliff with routes in many grades is Ejderha, located just below Can Baba and also easy to reach from Sektor Ay by following the cliff line up.
Although you might be tempted to climb at Indian Man only during your visit, do not forget to check out them many other cliffs located around Datça.
approach
From Datça drive in direction of Marmaris until you reach Reşadiye (about 5km from the center of Datça). At the traffic light take a left in direction of Knidos and the ferry for Bodrum. Shortly after that, follow the signs for Knidos (take a left in direction West) and follow the road for about 2km until you see a Y-junction turn off on your left on a dirt road (there might be a sign for Yeşil Bahçe). Follow this dirt road until you see a big camp / picknick area on the right and a turn-off to the left that leads down to the wash. Park either here (36.72888, 27.62483) or continue across the wash and for about 100 meters to the parking along the road (just very few spots) (36.72393, 27.62276).
Follow the details for each sector from here.
|
1.1.1. Sektor Ay 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.725083, 27.621900
description
Ay means moon in Turkish. This sector offers perfect vertical rock full of minipockets, sometimes sharp, great technical climbing with a very short approach. The sector is in the sun almost all day but the base is shaded by trees.
approach
You have 2 choices to approach this cliff. If you are already up at the cave follow the trail down along the cliff passing at sector Ejderha and leading further down. It is relatively well marked. Eventually it will lead you to Sektor Ay.
If you just want to climb at Sektor Ay, you may as well park as for Can Baba. Then enter the wash and hike downstream for about 50m until you find a well marked trail going up left and leading you to the sector.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Les spaghettis du paradis
Set: olivier | 6b | 25m | |||||
2 |
Susadım
Set: Fabrice Pini | 6b+ | 35m, 17 | |||||
3 |
Ay
Set: Fabrice Pini | 6c+ | 33m | |||||
4 |
Macarnator
Set: olivier | 6a+ | 27m | |||||
5 |
★★ Bonfile pene
Set: olivier | 6b | 27m | |||||
6 |
★★ Köfte party
Set: olivier | 6a+ | 27m, 14 | |||||
7 |
Pure Pocket
The name says it all! Set: olivier | 6c+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Isviçre peyniri / Swiss cheese
Pockets all the way. Set: Carla Häsler & olivier | 6c | 18m, 8 | |||||
9 |
★★ Süper karga
Start left of the big grey tufa, just behind the tree. Set: olivier | 6b | 18m, 8 | |||||
10 |
★★ Rüyalar rutubetli
Goes up right of the big grey tufa and right of the tree. Set: Yannick Bonnin | 6a+ | 15m, 7 |
1.1.2. Ejderha 13 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.725706, 27.620834
description
Ejderha means dragon in Turkish. Long slabs and vertical grey rock full of pockets, not only ideal for beginners… A good place for colder days but the base is not the most comfortable one, especially for kids.
approach
Hike up as for Can Baba and follow the cliff down for a little bit on the far right side.
Alternatively you may hike up from Sektor Ay along the cliff.
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Parmak rendesi
Goes up left of the big crack following the ramp. Set: olivier, Jan 2015 | 5c+ | 20m | |||||
2 |
Canavar
Set: olivier, Jan 2015 | 8a | 35m | |||||
3 |
★★ Gamba gamba
Set: Torsten Hans, Jan 2015 | 7a | 25m | |||||
4 |
★ Drilling instructor
Set: Torsten Hans, Jan 2015 | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
5 |
Dans le pantalon
Set: Lucien Abbet & olivier, Jan 2016 | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
6 |
★★ Dişsiz
Set: olivier, Dec 2014 | 5c+ | 35m | |||||
7 |
★★ Variante
Set: Lucien Abbet & olivier, Jan 2016 | 6a | 35m | |||||
8 |
Furie Nocturne
Set: olivier, Dec 2014 | 6b+/c | 35m | |||||
9 |
Ejderha
Set: olivier, Dec 2014 | 6c+ | 35m | |||||
10 |
Black Block
Set: Rafsta, Dec 2014 | 7 | 20m | |||||
11 |
Bread and roses
Set: Rafsta, Dec 2014 | 7c+ | 15m | |||||
12 |
4 in a pocket
Set: Rafsta, Dec 2014 | 7 | 20m | |||||
13 |
YetToBeNamed_02
Set: Rafsta, Dec 2014 | 7b+ | 15m |
1.1.3. Can Baba 57 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.725916, 27.620394
description
The Big cave, dedicated to the really famous Turkish poet Can Ucel, Can Baba is one of the most impressive tufa caves around. The bottom of the cliff is super comfortable and well protected from rain.
The left side of the cave (starting with "Knidos") is first in the shade, the right, south facing side (starting with "Bouldervar") is in the shade from mid-afternoon on.
approach
From the parking for Indian Man hike back until the road is closest to the wash and look out for cairns to find a well marked trail crossing the wash and leading up to the cliff.
Alternatively you may also hike up from Sektor Ay on a steeper trail along the cliff.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Milkyway
Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014 | 7c+ | 45m, 20 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Solucan
An epic and endless ride along the single black tufa. Set: Adam Okrasinski & olivier, Oct 2014 | 8a | 45m | |||||
3 |
Esperanto
Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014 | 8c | 45m, 21 | |||||
4 |
Busca show L1
Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 8b | 30m, 9 | |||||
5 |
Busca show L2
Full length of Busca show, pass right at the anchor. Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 8c+ | 70m | |||||
6 |
★★ Chere Mobilière
A short, technical climb with a sting at the end. Set: Werner Luneau, 2014 | 7c | 18m, 7 | |||||
7 |
Kebabomaniac
Takes a "loop" to the right on some of the same holds as Black Hole before following the tufa up high. Set: olivier, Feb 2015 | 8a+ | 32m, 15 | |||||
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★★ Black Hole
Another classic at the entrance of the cave. An awesome combination of technical climbing with a low crux leads to some great, sometimes reachy moves on often good holds before a heart-breaking finish to the black hole... Set: Werner Luneau, 2014 | 7c+ | 34m, 12 | |||||
9 |
Fire in the black hole L2
Extension 1 of Black Hole. Climbs 9 more bolts from pitch 1. Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015 | 8a | 55m, 21 | |||||
10 |
Fire in the black hole L3
Extension of "Fire in the black hole L2". Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015 | 8b+ | 65m | |||||
11 |
Radio Datça
Set: Benjamin Coup, Nov 2015 | 7c+ | 35m, 11 | |||||
12 |
Breizh île
Extension of "Radio Datça". Initially graded 8b+ but after a hold broke regraded to 8c by Gé Pouvreau. FFA: Gé Pouvreau Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 8c | 50m | |||||
13 |
★★★ Knidos
Starts on the same short slab as "Datça Rodeo" but takes the left line of bolts after that. Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013 | 7c | 35m, 14 | |||||
14 |
Necke moyen to beguen tôl
Extension of Knidos. Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 8b+ | 70m | |||||
15 |
★★★ Datça Rodeo
Starts behind the olive tree with a short slab before the action kicks in. Great tufa climbing for the full length high into the cave. Set: olivier, 2014 | 7b+ | 35m, 17 | |||||
16 |
★★★ Yelmek
Set: Fabrice Pini, 2014 | 7b+ | 24m | |||||
17 |
★★★ Üstsüz
Same first 3 bolts as Yelmek, then go right. Set: Fabrice Pini, 2014 | 7b | 26m | |||||
18 |
Tubular Bell
A variant of Üstsüz branching out right at the tufas. Set: Michel Piola | 7b | 14 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Il giardino del sirena
Set: Emrah Özbay, 2013 | 7b+ | 28m | |||||
20 |
★★★ See you next life
Extension 1 of "Il giardino del sirena" (2nd pitch). Set: olivier, Sep 2014 | 7c | 35m | |||||
21 |
Out of next life
This is the line to an anchor just before the hard crux of "Out of energy" (3rd pitch). FA: Adrien Boulon | 8a+ | ||||||
22 |
Out of energy
Extension of "Out of next life" (4th pitch). Set: Klemen Bečan, Nov 2014 | 9a | 55m | |||||
23 |
Out of energy - variant
A right variant of "Out of energy". Climb the first few bolts including the hard crux and then follow the right line of expansion bolts. Set: Sébastien Bouin | 9a+ | ||||||
24 |
Brocoli extension
Extension of "Out of energy" (5th pitch). Set: Klemen Bečan, Nov 2014 | 9a | 70m | |||||
25 |
★★★ Rüzgar
The line starting with the obvious pockets. Set: olivier, 2013 | 7b+ | 27m, 11 | |||||
26 |
Toprak
Extension of Rüzgar. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015 | 8a | 45m | |||||
27 |
★★★ Meltem
Set: olivier & Evren Kirazli, 2013 | 7b/b+ | 27m, 14 | |||||
28 |
★★★ Meltemosore
Extension of Meltem. Shares the anchor with "Zaman". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015 | 8a | 45m, 22 | |||||
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
29 |
★★★ Turkish Moon
Going up through the almost white crescent. Set: Werner Luneau & Adrien Boulon, Nov 2014 | 8c | 30m, 16 | |||||
30 |
★★★ Helmet and Katana
The route name is written on the rock. Finishes at the big hole, watch out for the owl that might live in there . Set: Klemen Bečan, Nov 2014 | 8a | 30m, 13 | |||||
31 |
★★★ Zaman
Extension of "Helmet and Katana". Shares the anchor with "Meltemosore". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015 | 8b | 45m, 19 | |||||
32 |
Limit of explosion
Right extension of "Helmet and Katana" (2nd pitch). Set: Klemen Bečan, Nov 2014 | 9a | 55m | |||||
33 |
Over the limite
Extension of "Limit of explosion" (3rd pitch). Grade to be confirmed. Set: Klemen Bečan, Nov 2014 | 9b | 70m | |||||
34 |
★★ Çeşme
Starts with a slabby section followed by technical climbing and a short, steeper section with tufas to the anchor. Set: olivier, 2014 | 6c+ | 23m, 12 | |||||
35 |
★ Kumpir
Goes up the vertical section inside the cave. Set: olivier, 2014 | 6b+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
36 |
★★★ Fort comme un tuc
Same start as "Can Baba" but then head left before the anchor, to the big hole and the anchor of "Helmet and Katana". Set: Adrien Boulon, Feb 2015 | 8b+ | 30m, 13 | |||||
37 |
★★ Zor
Climb "Fort comme un tuc" and the extension called Zaman to make it Zor. Shares the anchor with "Meltemosore". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015 | 8b+/c | 45m, 19 | |||||
38 |
★★★ Can Baba
The classic line at the bottom of the cave. Follows the line left of the obvious tufa. A must do. Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013 | 6c+ | 25m, 9 | |||||
39 |
★★★ Big Can Baba
Extension of "Can baba". Climbs to the anchor of "Keurban". Set: Zorbey Aktuyun | 8b+ | 40m, 18 | |||||
40 |
★★ Liquide comme une flaque
Just to the right of Can Baba on the less structured wall. Set: Benjamin Coup, Feb 2015 | 7b+ | 25m, 8 | |||||
41 |
★★ What the mic mac
Straight up and then a bit right trending to the anchor just below the big hole. Initially graded 7c. In 2021 a hold broke, making it rather 7c+. Set: olivier, 2014 | 7c+ | 25m, 10 | |||||
42 |
Big Mac
Extension of "What the mic mac". Continues just right of the big hole to join "Big Can Baba" and climbs to the anchor of "Keurban". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015 | 8b/b+ | 45m, 18 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
43 |
★★★ Bouldervar
Start off to the right of the big massive penis like hanging tufa through a small roof, sustain with a crux in the middle. Set: Werner Luneau & Nicolas Nastorg, 2014 | 7c+ | 28m, 11 | |||||
44 |
★★★ Keurban
Extension of Bouldervar. Climbs to the anchor of Big Can Baba. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015 | 8a+ | 45m | |||||
45 |
★★★ Testere
Powerful and tricky. Shares the anchor with "La française des vieux". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Jan 2015 | 7c | 28m, 9 | |||||
46 |
★★ La française des vieux
Left trending line with awesome technical and poweful climbing. Shares the anchor with Testere. Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015 | 8a | 28m, 8 | |||||
47 |
★★ Kanunsuz
Starts between the first dark grey slabby tufas at the bottom of the wall and passes left of the stalagtite before the anchor. Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 7a | 17m, 7 | |||||
48 |
★★★ A muerte bicho
Extension of Kanunsuz. Shares anchor with "Limit of explosion". Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015 | 8b+ | 55m | |||||
49 |
★★★ Rockumantary
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 7c | 25m, 11 | |||||
50 |
★★★ Mediteranean Dream
Another classic of the cave. Follow the line left of the round, dark grey tufa, then pass between the tufas to reach the last tricky section of the climb. This climb offers all styles in one! Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013 | 8a | 33m, 12 | |||||
51 |
★★ Live like Jay
Same start as Nefs but then left. Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 7b | 24m, 11 | |||||
52 |
★★★ Nefs
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 7c | 32m, 15 | |||||
53 |
★★★ Freed From Desire
Extension of "Nefs". Goes up high to the top of the cave in the grey streak. Set: Adrien Boulon, Dec 2017 FA: Florence Pinet, 2018 | 8a+ | 50m, 2 | |||||
54 |
Kayıp Aphrodite
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 8b+ | 33m, 15 | |||||
55 |
★★★ Medusa
Initially graded 7c but downgraded by Zorbey to 7b+. Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 7b+ | 35m, 15 | |||||
56 |
Gorgon
Extension of Medusa. Set: Zorbey Aktuyun | 8a+ | 45m | |||||
57 |
★★★ Vendeta
Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014 | 8a | 32m, 15 |
1.1.4. Uzak Zürafa 30 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.725313, 27.619810
description
Sector ranging from well bolted slabs for beginners to vertical and technical routes with some hard extensions. The left side of the cliff stays in the sun till late morning while the right side, closer to Can Baba, sees shade a bit earlier.
approach
Same as for Can Baba. Uzak Zürafa is actually the first sector you reach where the trail hits the impressive cliff. Some routes on the left but most to the right in direction Can Baba.
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Aphrodite
First pitch shares anchor with "Just perfect". This route has potential to be continued further up to the top of Indian Man. | 6b | 87m, 3, 15 | |||||
2 |
★★ Just perfect
Runnels and pockets all the way on this long journey to the anchor of Aphrodite. Can obviously also be used as alternative pitch 1 to access pitch 2 of Aphrodite. Set: Anja Becan, Nov 2014 | 6b | 37m, 14 | |||||
3 |
★★ Gospa vrtnarka
Set: Anja Becan, Nov 2014 | 6a | 35m, 14 | |||||
4 |
★★ Vieux Briscards
Water runnels and pockets all the way... Set: Lucien Abbet & olivier, Jan 2016 | 6a | 33m, 14 | |||||
5 |
★★ Les pères Noel
Starts where the path arrives at the rock. Just left of the bigger tree growing out of the rock. Set: Lucien Abbet & olivier, Jan 2016 | 5c | 35m, 14 | |||||
6 |
★★ Lodos
Glue-in bolts all the way... Set: olivier, 2013 | 5c | 40m, 13 | |||||
7 |
★★ Salim
Just a few meters to the right of Lodos on expansion bolts. Starts just left of the tree going to a big undercling flake and meanders the way up high. Set: olivier, 2013 | 5c | 35m, 14 | |||||
8 |
★★ Full Pocket
Hike up a few meters and go left on the small ramp / ledge to a line of glue-ins. Set: olivier | 6a | 30m, 11 | |||||
9 |
★★ What da funk
Nice climbing on grey rock followed by some tufa style pockets. Set: Evren Kirazli, 2013 | 6a+ | 30m, 11 | |||||
10 |
★ Baslamah
Easier climbing to a distinct crux higher up. Set: Rafsta, 2014 | 6b+ | 30m, 12 | |||||
11 |
★★ Göslamah
Follow the crack line and then trend slightly left. Set: Rafsta, 2014 | 6a+ | 25m, 10 | |||||
12 |
★ R.A.T
Another line of glue-ins, starting on grey rock and after 4, 5 bolts continuing on yellowish and reddish rock. Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014 | 6a+/b | 20m, 10 | |||||
13 |
★★ Uzak Zurafa
The route that has the big, deep hole just above bolt 2. Climb the grey slab up to an orange section where the crux is. Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013 | 6b+ | 35m, 13 | |||||
14 |
★★ Acipayam
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013 | 7a | 25m, 10 | |||||
15 |
★★★ Piolet
Same start as "Ilegal Man" but continues left at the 2nd last bolt. Set: Michel Piola | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
16 |
★★ Ilegal Man
Technical climbing on small holds on very abrasive rock, step anywhere and climb! Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013 | 6c+ | 25m, 11 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Tisane du soir
Extension of "Ilegal Man". Set: Adrien Godat | 7a+ | ||||||
18 |
★ Raki Broccoli
A technical slab climb on ‘broccoli’ features. Set: olivier, Nov 2014 | 6c | 22m, 11 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Lonely Wolf
Starts right where you hike up the last blocks before arriving at the level of the cave. Look for some tufas left above the anchor of Dionisos. The anchor is on the vertical section. Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014 | 7a+ | 30m, 11 | |||||
20 |
★★ Fue buonito mientras duro
3 bolt extension of Lonely Wolf. Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014 | 8a | 40m | |||||
21 |
Insomnio Turco
Extension of "Fue buonito mientras duro". Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014 | 8c | 60m | |||||
22 |
★★ Dionisos
Small crimps, technical climbing at its finest. Set: olivier, Nov 2014 | 6b | 20m, 9 | |||||
23 |
★★ Efes efect
Just 2 meters right of Dionisos. Set: olivier, Nov 2014 | 6b+ | 20m, 9 | |||||
24 |
★★ Pocket Dog
Another great technical climb, high feet, one or the other small crimp, great moves. Set: olivier, Nov 2014 | 6c | 20m, 11 | |||||
25 |
★★ Magic Room
Left extension of Pocket Dog. Pass right of the anchor of Pocket Dog and clip the bolt there. Follow the left bolt-line with a small roof for this extension. Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014 | 8a | 40m, 19 | |||||
26 |
★★★ Respect Datça
Middle extension of Pocket Dog. Pass right of the anchor of Pocket Dog and clip the bolt there. Follow up through the drak grey stripe from there. There is one more extension going out left and one more further right, all starting with this bolt. Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014 | 7c+ | 37m, 18 | |||||
27 |
Nice Future
Extension of "Respect Datça". Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014 | 8c+ | 55m | |||||
28 |
★★ Hayal
Right extension of Pocket Dog. Pass right of the anchor of Pocket Dog and clip the bolt there. Follow up through the dark orange section of rock and follow the rightmost bolt-line. Set: Werner Luneau, Dec 2014 | 7c+ | 37m, 20 | |||||
29 |
★★ La Rambo
Small gastons and crimps all the way. First bolt is just under the undercling flake. Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014 | 7a | 20m, 7 | |||||
30 |
★★ El Bronson
Another technical climb going up left of the big flake. The sting is in the last few bolts. Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014 | 7b | 22m, 9 |
1.1.5. Shaman 35 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.724652, 27.618721
description
Beautiful compact grey rock. This sector is high but the routes are bolted in 3 pitches, the lower pitches are between 5b and 7b, the middle ones between 6c+ and 7c, and the third ones above 7c. Great climbing for cold days as it is very sunny.
approach
Same as for "Uzak Zürafa" but just before you reach the cliff, take the obvious trail to the left, first flat and then going up along the cliff. Take the first turn-off to the right to reach the right end of Shaman, hard to miss.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Yildiz
Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 5b | 18m, 11 | |||||
2 |
★ Kosmos
Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 5c | 20m, 10 | |||||
3 |
★ Baba Zula
Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 5c+ | 20m, 11 | |||||
4 |
Gros chagrin
Extension of Baba Zula. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 8a | 50m, 23 | |||||
5 |
★ Bulut
Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 5c+ | 20m, 11 | |||||
6 |
Zeki
Extension of Bulut. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 8a+ | 50m, 24 | |||||
7 |
★ Parfum de gitanes
Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 6a | 18m, 9 | |||||
8 |
★★ Science friction
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 6b+ | 18m, 9 | |||||
9 |
★★ El kedi
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 6b | 18m, 9 | |||||
10 |
★★★ L’homme chat
Extension of "El kedi". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 7a | 40m, 20 | |||||
11 |
★★ Nico3D
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 6a+ | 20m, 12 | |||||
12 |
Arcator
Extension of Nico3D (2nd pitch). Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 7c+ | 40m, 20 | |||||
13 |
L3 Nator
Extension of Arcator (3rd pitch). Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 8a | 55m, 25 | |||||
14 |
★ Escalator
Same start as Nico3D but right (straight) exit. Starts at the crack / broken corner just left of the bulge. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 6b | 20m, 8 | |||||
15 |
Remake up
Extension of Escalator. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 8a | 45m, 21 | |||||
16 |
Mercan dede
Set: olivier, Jan 2015 | 6b+ | 20m, 11 | |||||
17 |
Wazabi
Extension of Mercan dede (2nd pitch). Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 7b | 40m, 21 | |||||
18 |
Orkinos
Extension of Wazabi (3rd pitch). Shares anchor with "Be brave, escape!". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 8a+ | 55m, 28 | |||||
19 |
★ Serial kinder
Shares anchor with "Never stop Köfteing". Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 7a | 20m, 11 | |||||
20 |
Never stop Köfteing
Shares anchor with "Serial kinder". The right route that starts in the bulge. Set: Adrien Boulon & Yannik Bonnin, Mar 2015 | 7c | 20m, 10 | |||||
21 |
★★ Zenith
Set: Yannik Bonnin, Jan 2015 | 7a | 20m, 12 | |||||
22 |
★★★ Peter Pine
Extension of Zenith. Set: Adrien Boulon, Mar 2015 | 7a+ | 40m, 22 | |||||
23 |
★★ Sulh
Set: Carla Häsler & olivier, Jan 2015 | 6b | 20m, 11 | |||||
24 |
★★ TomTom finger
Extension of Sulh (2nd pitch). Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 7c | 40m, 20 | |||||
25 |
Be brave, escape!
Left extension of "TomTom finger" (3rd pitch). Shares anchor with Orkinos. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 8a+ | 55m, 26 | |||||
26 |
Jeux d’enfants
Right extension of "TomTom finger" (alternative 3rd pitch). Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 8b+ | 60m, 28 | |||||
27 |
★ Görkova
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 7a+ | 33m, 12 | |||||
28 |
★ Körfezi
Extension of "Görkova". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 7c | 50m, 19 | |||||
29 |
★★ Shaman
Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 6c | 33m, 14 | |||||
30 |
★★★ DJ shaman
Extension of Shaman (2nd pitch). Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 7c+ | 50m, 21 | |||||
31 |
Abusez moi !
Extension of "DJ shaman" (3rd pitch). Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 8a+ | 70m, 30 | |||||
32 |
★★ Incantation
Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 7a+ | 33m, 14 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
33 |
★★★ Incantation Revelation
"Incantation" is a wonderful single pitch route on the right side of sector Shaman that was up opened up by Swiss climber, olivier in March 2015. Incantation Revelation is a high-quality multi-pitch extension of Incantation that continues to the top of Indian Man (The prominent cliff face in Datça). This was the first sport route that tackles the headwall in its entirety and was opened up in January of 2022 through a team effort by traveling Alaskan, German and British climbers. (Nick Weicht, Dani Feil & Cameron Clouston) Incantation Revelation can be done in three or four pitches, depending on whether or not one wants to skip the third pitch intermediate anchor. The climbing style is varied and rock quality is consistently high from top to bottom making for a wonderful climbing experience if one is able to tackle the grade. The bolt spacing is user-friendly and consistent with the president that has been on most routes in Datça. P1. 7a+, 20 bolts, 46 meters. Start up Incantation for a high-quality face climbing experience on glew-in bolts for 33 meters. Continue another 13 meters past the Incantation anchor on expansion bolts up the steep and sometimes intimidating looking face, trending slightly right near the top. Cauliflower rock may rough but there is a path through and a great deal of beautiful climbing beyond. In dry conditions you can enjoy jugs and side pulls to the right. If the tufa is seeping it may be a better option to punch straight up the face where you will discover a two bolt anchor that is located at the first large ledge in the dihedral directly above a cave. P2. 7a+/b, 14 bolts, 34 meters. Climb from the nice belay ledge and trend slightly left on steep balancey arete / inside corner moves. Pull onto high quality face climbing through vertical terrain before the angle eases off but the difficulty does not. Take your time at the ledge before firing off one last three bolt sequence at a steep arete before reaching a set of chains at a comfy belay. P3. 7a, 19 draws 44 meters. From the belay, follow bolts up the arete to a sloped ledge for an nice rest. Pull through a steep section of technical climbing before entering into a dihedral. At the 22 meter mark you will encounter a two-bolt anchor that can be used as an intermediate belay or continue for another 22 meters of 6c+ quality, steep climbing on the upper face to the top of the cliff. Descent: (Walk Off) If conditions are windy it is highly advised to walk off and avoid rope snag potential. Continue from the two bolt chain anchor at the top of the steep climbing and scramble an additional 10 meters. These fourth class moves are protected by 1 bolt and will lead to a two bolt anchor with no rap rings located beyond the top of the cliff. Walk / scramble third class terrain, trending left and uphillfor about 150 meters. Always stay within 10 meters of the ridge line until you reach the summit and be cautious not to knock loose rocks over the edge of the cliff where climbers may be located below. Continue to follow the ridge left and downhill for another 200 meters until you arrive at the saddle. From the saddle follow a trail and karens (rock piles) downhill staying roughly 10 m away from the base of the cliff and work your way to sector Nastrolopitheque. Continue on the well-established approach trail to Sektor Shaman. (Rappel) If wind is not a factor you can descend to the route using a variety of anchors from a variety of climbs including Incantation Revelation or Abusez moi ! The most straightforward is listed below. (80 meter rope) If you have an 80 meter rope rappel directly down the chain anchors of Incantation Revelation. Be sure to start with two short 22 meter raps that avoid rope snag potential. Mind your rope ends because the last last rap is a rope stretcher that will get you safely to the ramp below yet still give you a couple meters of easy scrambling before arriving at flat ground. Set: Nick Weicht, Dani Feil & Cameron Clouston, 7 Feb 2022 | 7b | 120m, 3, 20 | |||||
34 |
★★ Lahmacun sokak
Same start as Incantation but directly right towards the big hole on top. Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 6a | 35m, 15 | |||||
35 |
Dünya
Dünya - After the dog that kept us company during our stay in Datça. Starts with “Lahmacun sokak” and traverses to the right. 7b (7a+obl.) 130m. This 7th grade multipitch takes you to the upper part of the south face of Indian man. Delicate slab climbing on the good quality grey limestone and some vertical climbing on pocketed yellow rock takes you almost to the top of the wall. Bring 17 quickdraws and a 70m rope. Descent with four 35m abseils to the left to the start of the route. Note: Climbing to the top of the wall is possible if you take a few cams (BD 3, 2 and 0.2) and a kingsling. Walking down, with some easy climbing, can be done to both sides of the mountain. The descent by abseiling down is more convenient though. Set: Rosemerijn Struijk & Sjors Verberg, 26 Feb 2022 | 7b | 140m, 4, 17 |
1.1.6. Papinosaure 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.724590, 27.618121
description
Just around the corner from Shaman you find slabby and vertical face climbing, very well bolted ideal for beginners.
approach
Same as for "Shaman" but continue the trail up for a little bit.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Trous bas d’ours
Set: olivier, Nov 2015 | 6a+ | 27m | |||||
2 |
Crackouille
Set: olivier, Nov 2015 | 6b | 27m | |||||
3 |
Fabulations libre
Set: olivier, Nov 2015 | 6b+ | 29m | |||||
4 |
Erdictator
Set: olivier, Nov 2015 | 6b+ | 35m | |||||
5 |
Dalouz
Same start as Erdictator but then right. Set: olivier, Nov 2015 | 6c | 35m | |||||
6 |
Diedro
Set: olivier, Nov 2015 | 6a | 36m |
1.1.7. Nastrolopitheque 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.724888, 27.617532
description
This is a small yellow cave, slightly overhanging with a few more easy routes further left on grey rock.
approach
One of the longer approaches in Datça. Follow the now steep path from Papinosaure up until you see the obvious cave.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Left RampThese 3 routes are left (a bit further up) of the small cave on grey rock. | ||||||||
2 |
Nastrologik
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 5a | 35m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Nastrolopitheque
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 5c | 35m | |||||
4 |
Nastral
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 6a | 35m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
CaveThese are the routes in the obvious small cave. | ||||||||
6 |
Nastronator
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 8a | 40m | |||||
7 |
Nastrodamus
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 7c | 20m | |||||
8 |
In nasty veritas
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 7a | 20m | |||||
9 |
Nastrophsichien
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 8b+ | 40m | |||||
10 |
Trop naz
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 40m | ||||||
11 |
Nastro le petit robot
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 40m |
1.2. Çocuklar 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.724273, 27.623666
description
Çocuklar means kids in Turkish. This sector has easy access, a safe belay area, short and well bolted routes which fit perfectly for kids, beginners and more. On top of that it offers a great view of the cave of Can Baba.
approach
Drive and park as described for Indian Man. Approximately where the pull-out for 2 cars is on the right for Can Baba you will see a trail going up on the other side of the road. Initially it might be hard to see but is very well marked and built with nice steps. It leads you directly to the cliff.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Bade su
Set: Aykut Özalp, 2014 | 4b | 10m | |||||
2 |
★ Nefes
Set: olivier, 2014 | 5a | 10m | |||||
3 |
★ Yigit
Set: Aykut Özalp, 2014 | 5a+ | 15m | |||||
4 |
★ Noa
Set: Aykut Özalp, 2014 | 5b | 15m | |||||
5 |
★ Eva
Set: olivier, 2014 | 5c | 15m | |||||
6 |
★ Mercan
Set: olivier, 2014 | 6a+ | 15m | |||||
7 |
★★ Anne için
Set: olivier, 2014 | 6c | 15m | |||||
8 |
★★ Baba Için
Set: olivier, 2014 | 7a+ | 15m |
1.3. Karia Yolu 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.721324, 27.620921
description
This is the wall facing Can Baba. This big pinnacle has only 2 multipitch routes yet but waiting for more, trad, mixed or fully bolted. "Match lunules" is already the big classic in Datca.
approach
Drive in and park as for Can Baba or continue for about 200m more and park on the right near the water source.
"Match Lunules" starts directly right of the water source, right behind a bigger tree you will find the first bolt.
"Mekanim Datça Olsun" starts a bit left of the water source.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Mekanim Datça Olsun
Bolted ground to top by Zorbey Aktuyun and Muammer Yalcin from Izmir. Zorbey Bolt it and on-sighted it at the same time. Take some cams (0.5, 0.75), a set of stoppers, helmet, 2x 50m rope in case of descent into the route, 10 quick draws North face shadow until 2pm in summer Set: Zorbey Aktuyun & Muammer Yalcin | 6b+ | 220m, 6 | |||||
2 |
★★ Match Lunules
35 bolts and 35 fixed rope sand-clock; Start is 15m right of the water tape. 2x40m Rope, 15 Quickdraws, Slings (2x 60cm, 2x 120cm), few pieces of rope to change the fixed sand-clocks just in case. Walk down (little trail), follow the cairns. Set: olivier, Martin Rigault & Etienne Toutan, 4 Apr 2016 | 6b | 150m, 6 |
1.4. Aslama 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.718241, 27.614700
description
Aslama means to give oneself in Turkish. The area comprises of two sectors which offer a variety of climbing styles on good rock. The climbing tends to be technical and the area has one of the shortest approaches in the area. The Aslama sector comes into the shade after late morning first with the Kayra sector following in the late afternoon. A wide range of grades are available from 5c – 8a, with routes like Datça Dogs, Tengri and Kayra standing out for their quality.
approach
Continue along the road after the parking for Can Baba until there is a turn off to the left by a large boulder (Karian Trial 36.71725, 27.61541). Park here and follow the path on the righthand side of the road opposite the large boulder (marked with a cairn). Follow the path diagonally uphill until it starts to flatten and curve to the left and arrives at a large cairn on the left. From here follow the path up and leftwards, the cliff can be clearly seen. The first sector arrived at is Aslama and the routes are listed from left to right, for Kayra Sector follow the cliff leftwards and down for 100 meters.
history
Initially developed by Matthew Burson in January of 2024.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
KayraThe routes further to the left from Aslama main sector. | ||||||||
2 |
★★★ Tengri
Warning Flora and Fauna: Nature conservation Set: Matthew Burson & Onur Yurtbasi, Jan 2024 | 6b | 20m, 10 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Kayra
Set: Matthew Burson & Onur Yurtbasi, Jan 2024 | 7c | 20m, 10 | |||||
4 |
Mergen
Set: Matthew Burson & Onur Yurtbasi, Jan 2024 | 6b | 18m, 9 | |||||
Aslama Main SectorThe first cliff you reach when hiking up. | ||||||||
6 |
★★★ Kormos
Set: Matthew Burson & Onur Yurtbasi, Jan 2024 | 8a | 18m, 9 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Aslama
FA: Matthew Burson & Onur Yurtbasi, Jan 2024 | 6c+ | 20m, 10 | |||||
8 |
★★ Onur & Obey
Set: Matthew Burson & Onur Yurtbasi, Jan 2024 | 5c | 20m, 11 | |||||
9 |
★★★ Datça Dogs
Set: Matthew Burson & Onur Yurtbasi, Jan 2024 | 6a | 18m, 9 | |||||
10 |
★★★ The Sleeping Lyon
Set: Matthew Burson & Onur Yurtbasi, Jan 2024 | 6b | 18m, 10 | |||||
11 |
★★ Teke
Set: Matthew Burson & Onur Yurtbasi, Jan 2024 | 6a+ | 18m, 9 | |||||
|
1.5. Domuzbükü 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.717083, 27.616979
description
Beautiful sharp rock facing north west in the shade till 15:00. This is one of the morning cliffs for summer.
approach
Continue along the road after the parking for Can Baba until there is a turn off to the left (with the signs for the Karian trail). Park on the left before the turn off (36.71725, 27.61541). Hike for about 80 meters on the road going left and find a trail (typically there are cairns) going up on the left. The trail is relatively faint at times but leads directly to the right end of the cliff. Scramble up on the last few meters to the comfortable ledge.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Upper SectorClimb down on the left side of the cliff (cairn) and hike up to reach the upper sector. | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Bal
Set: olivier, Jul 2014 | 6a+ | 20m, 11 | |||||
3 |
★★ Badem
Set: olivier, Jul 2014 | 6c | 20m, 10 | |||||
4 |
★★ Eski Datça
Set: olivier, Jul 2014 | 6b | 20m, 9 | |||||
5 |
★★ Cnide
Set: olivier, Jul 2014 | 6b | 20m, 8 | |||||
Lower SectorThese are the routes on the main wall. | ||||||||
7 |
★★ Karaarslan 3
On the far left, starting with the broken yellow / orange rock. Sharp rock to climbing on water runnels. Set: olivier, 2014 | 6b | 23m, 11 | |||||
8 |
★ Ilbis
Sharp rock at lower, more difficult section leads on easier climbing on water runnels. Set: Aykut Özalp, 2014 | 6b+/c | 18m, 9 | |||||
9 |
★★ Yabanci
Set: olivier, 2014 | 6c | 19m, 10 | |||||
10 |
★★ Yaban Domuz
Amazing climbing to the top of the cliff. Pull hard low down and enjoy the runnels higher up. Set: olivier, 2014 | 6c+/7a | 25m, 14 | |||||
11 |
Radical Deyus
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 8a | 20m, 8 | |||||
12 |
Bafa Bros
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun & Musti, 2014 | 8a+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
13 |
Project
Set: Andreass, 12 Feb | |||||||
14 |
★★ Karakulak
The first of the 3 7b's at the right end of the cliff. Nice climbing through the first few bolts leads to the crux and intense climbimg on partially sharp holds to the anchor. Set: olivier, 2014 | 7b | 18m, 11 | |||||
15 |
★★ Tilki
Set: olivier, 2014 | 7b | 20m, 11 | |||||
16 |
Kartal
Set: olivier, 2014 | 7b+ | 20m, 8 |
1.6. Karain 16 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.716015, 27.617776
description
Beautiful small cave, easy access, sheltered from north wind. Don't forget to climb "croods".
approach
Continue along the road after the parking for Can Baba until there is a turn off to the left (with the signs for the Karian trail). Park on the left before the turn off - same as for Domuzbükü (36.71725, 27.61541). Hike for about 300 meters on the road going left (pass the trail for Domuzbükü) and find the trail (typically there are cairns) going up on the left. The trail leads directly to the cave.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Pul biber
Set: Carla Häsler & olivier, Jan 2015 | 6a+ | 15m, 10 | |||||
2 |
★★ Eep
Set: olivier, Nov 2014 | 6b+ | 15m, 9 | |||||
3 |
Momo
Set: Yannik Bonnin, Jan 2015 | 7c+ | 18m, 8 | |||||
4 |
Zoumba
Set: Werner Luneau, Nov 2014 | 8a+ | 18m, 9 | |||||
5 |
Roof Proof
Set: Werner Luneau, Nov 2014 | 8c | 25m, 13 | |||||
6 |
Yalin
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Apr 2015 | 8a+ | 20m | |||||
7 |
Karain
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Apr 2015 | 8b | 30m | |||||
8 |
Transatlantique
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Jan 2015 | 7c+ | 25m | |||||
9 |
Ne var
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Apr 2015 | 7c+ | 20m | |||||
10 |
Ne yok
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Apr 2015 | 8c | 25m | |||||
11 |
Kirlangiçlar
Set: olivier, Apr 2015 | 7b/b+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
12 |
★★★ Croods
Set: olivier, Nov 2014 | 7c+ | 25m, 11 | |||||
13 |
Sakinca
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Apr 2015 | 9a | 25m, 10 | |||||
14 |
★★ Crrraaack !
Set: olivier, Nov 2014 | 7a+ | 25m, 14 | |||||
15 |
Bir el yaptim
Set: Nicolas Nastorg & Capucine Cotteaux, Jan 2015 | 7c | 15m, 9 | |||||
16 |
Bolt shit
Set: Nicolas Nastorg & Capucine Cotteaux, Jan 2015 | 7b+ | 15m, 8 |
1.7. Sucuk 21 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.716669, 27.600720
description
The best morning (shadow) cliff for hot days, all grades available here and probably the best 7a+ and 7c+ around.
approach
Continue on the road from the parking for Can Baba for a total of 2.2km, passing straight at the junction with the signs for Karia Yolu (the long distance hiking trail) and then taking a left at the next Y-junction from where the road climbs up the hill. Park at a nice flat spot on the right or directly 50m further up in the left hairpin turn where the trail starts (36.71561, 27.60323).
Follow this well marked, almost flat trail towards the cliff.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Ilyd
Set: Rafsta, 2014 | 7c+ | 25m, 10 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Les merveilles de la péninsule
Great line starting with a slab before the first powerful overhang kicks in. Make your way up going left and right to a small surprise at the anchor. Set: olivier, 2014 | 7a | 24m, 12 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Confusion
Follow the dark grey stripe above the grey slab. Set: olivier, 2014 | 7a | 24m, 13 | |||||
4 |
★★ Saliangoz
Starts just 2 meters right of the dark grey stripe. Climb up the grey slab (no bolts) and engage the slightly overhanging orange broken rock of great quality. Set: olivier, 2014 | 6b | 24m, 11 | |||||
5 |
★★ tiptop
Starts on the hey slab and trends slightly left at bolt 4 and 5 before going up high. Very homogeneous. Set: olivier, 2014 | 6a | 25m, 13 | |||||
6 |
★★ FisFis
Great climbing on broken edges and ledges. Good footwork will make it an easier climb. Set: olivier, 2014 | 6a+ | 25m, 13 | |||||
7 |
★★ Sucukcuk
One of the shorter routes on this wall, passing left of the small pine tree. Very well bolted with a distinct crux in the upper third. Set: Allison Derlot, 2014 | 6a+ | 18m, 11 | |||||
8 |
★★ Karia yolu
A great line on nice grey rock with good holds and feet. Set: Rafsta, 2014 | 6a+ | 20m, 9 | |||||
9 |
★★ Thrace
In the corner just where the grey slab ends and the yellow overhang begins. Follow the slightly overhanging crack / corner to an easier grey slab. Set: olivier, 2014 | 6b+ | 24m, 13 | |||||
10 |
MiniMalt
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 7a | 17m, 9 | |||||
11 |
★★ Içine gir
Passes right of the big hole and the small roof. Set: olivier, 2014 | 7b/b+ | 25m, 12 | |||||
12 |
★★★ Badman
Set: Rafsta, 2014 | 7b+ | 25m, 11 | |||||
13 |
★★ Never stop brainstorming
Set: Werner Luneau, 2014 | 8a+ | 25m, 11 | |||||
14 |
Never stop cleaning
Set: Adam Okrasinski, Oct 2014 | 8c | 25m, 10 | |||||
15 |
Trompe l’oeil
Set: Werner Luneau, 2014 | 7c+ | 25m, 9 | |||||
16 |
Esekarisi
Set: Adam Okrasinski, Oct 2014 | 8c | 25m, 10 | |||||
17 |
Captain hook
Set: Rafsta, 2014 | 8c | 25m, 12 | |||||
18 |
★★ Sucuk Power
The masterpiece on this wall. Make your way to the 2 big holes and then hold on for the rest of the steep section before you finish on a grey slab. Set: olivier, 2014 | 7c | 25m, 9 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Flat cat
On the far right of the yellow overhang. Starts just left of the obvious tufa with big holes and then passes right before ending on a grey slab. Great climbing! Set: olivier, 2014 | 7a+ | 25m, 11 | |||||
20 |
★★ Toucourtoudur
Short route on the far right of the overhang with an anchor just where the steep part ends. Set: olivier, 2014 | 7a+ | 12m, 6 | |||||
21 |
★★ Pamuk alé !
On the far right, climbs grey rock with broken edges and sidepulls. Set: olivier, 2014 | 6a | 16m, 9 |
1.8. Balık 18 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.717347, 27.599262
description
This cliff faces south east and is best for cold days (with north wind) or late afternoon during hot days. Short and powerful, this is Datca's boulder gym , right section is perfect for beginners.
approach
From Datça drive in direction of Knidos. From the turn off to Knidos (straight to the ferry) drive for about 6.5km until, after some sharper turns, you see a dirt road going down left. Take this dirt road and drive about 800m to a sharp turn right with a parking on the left (lots of boxes for bees). Park there (36.717007, 21.7597696).
Follow the right edge of the parking (looks more like a garbage dump) to find the path heading down to the cliff. It is not well marked but you should see some cairns.
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Main SectorThis is the yellow, overhanging main wall. | ||||||||
2 |
Fock in hell
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 7b | 12m, 6 | |||||
3 |
★★ Ahtapot
Set: olivier, 2014 | 7b | 14m, 7 | |||||
4 |
Lahoz
Set: olivier, 2014 | 7b+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
5 |
Orfoz
Set: olivier, 2014 | 7c+ | 20m, 9 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Karides
Set: Werner Luneau, 2014 | 7b+ | 15m, 6 | |||||
7 |
★★ Lambuka
Set: Werner Luneau, 2014 | 8a/a+ | 15m, 6 | |||||
8 |
★★ Kalkan
Hard 8a with a body tension knee-bar boulder down low to an interesting athletic finish. Set: Werner Luneau, 2014 | 8a | 15m, 7 | |||||
9 |
★★ Ucan Balik
Set: olivier, 2014 | 8a | 15m, 7 | |||||
10 |
Karavida
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 7c+ | 15m, 6 | |||||
11 |
★★ RIP Badem
Set: olivier, 2014 | 7c+ | 15m, 6 | |||||
12 |
Halikarnas
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 7c | 10m, 6 | |||||
13 |
Midye
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 7c | 10m, 7 | |||||
Right WallThe grey face about 50 meters to the right of the main wall with easier routes. | ||||||||
15 |
★★★ Palamut
Set: olivier, 2014 | 6a | 25m | |||||
16 |
★★★ Karagöz
Set: Rafsta, 2014 | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
17 |
★ Hamsi
Set: olivier, 2014 | 5c | 20m | |||||
18 |
★ Sardalya
Set: Aykut Özalp, 2014 | 5c+ | 20m | |||||
19 |
★★ Melanuria
Set: olivier, 2014 | 5c | 20m | |||||
20 |
★★ Zargana
Set: olivier, 2014 | 6a+ | 30m |
1.9. Hızırşah 13 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.728029, 27.641278
description
Hızırşah is despite its not so easy access worth a visit. In the shadow all day it is facing the north wind, ideal for hot days. Go and find the panik room .
approach
How long the approach to the cliff of Hızırşah is, depends largely on the type of vehicle you have. Assuming you have a car with reasonable ground clearance it can be quite short, otherwise the hike is longer but not too bad.
Make your way to the village of Hızırşah by taking a left from the road to Knidos at the cemetery of Hızırşah. Once you reach the village, take the first road right (it is also marked with red/white marks for the Karian trail) and follow it, first through the village and then, as a dirt road, through various olive and other cultures. At one point (you should see a big house a few hundred meters away), take a left and start climbing. The road becomes worse and worse as you climb up, park wherever you can but at the latest here at a small junction (36.729980, 27.641829). There is a nice flat space on the left.
From there hike the last few meters of road up on the right and follow the trail to the obvious goat cave. From there take a right and follow the cliff through the bushes on faint trails. Once you reach the corner, follow the steep gully up left to reach the cliff.
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Deniz manzara
Set: olivier, Apr 2015 | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
2 |
Endless
Set: Werner Luneau, 2014 | 8 | 30m, 12 | |||||
3 |
My moon
Set: Werner Luneau, 2014 | 8c+ | 30m, 11 | |||||
4 |
Panik room
Set: olivier, 2013 | 8a | 25m, 11 | |||||
5 |
TekTek Ayakabi
Set: Ohrsten Højby, 2013 | 8 | 25m, 8 | |||||
6 |
Knidians
Set: olivier, 2014 | 7b | 18m, 7 | |||||
7 |
Eclipse bar
Set: olivier, 2014 | 6c | 18m, 9 | |||||
8 |
Rouletout
Set: Bernii, 2013 | 6b+ | 18m | |||||
9 |
Elaki
Set: Emrah Özbay, 2013 | 7b+ | 18m | |||||
10 |
Batir
Set: Emrah Özbay, 2013 | 7a+ | 18m | |||||
11 |
Kung fu no help
Set: Ohrsten Højby, 2013 | 7b | 18m | |||||
12 |
Poyraz
Set: olivier, 2013 | 7a | 27m, 12 | |||||
13 |
Sah Mat
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013 | 7c | 25m, 11 |
1.10. L'Oeil du Cyclope 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.735521, 27.599992
description
The big cave underneath the military installation on top of the mountain. Can be seen from far as one of the most impressive features in the area.
Routes listed right to left!
Mostly hard to very hard and long routes. In general, this crag does not see a lot of traffic, be careful with falling rocks / tufas. Grades may not be very accurate.
approach
From Datça drive in direction of Knidos, staying on the main road and not taking the left to Indian Man. Pass the sector of Yenikale (where the road climbs up) and just at the end of the crash barrier on the right, take a right on a dirt road. Pass a small transformer and park next to the bee hives on the left (36.7263, 27.5966).
Follow the road for another 50m or so and just before it starts descending, hike up left through the forest (only minor trail marks) for about 100m (keep slightly right) until you hit a better marked trail with lots of cairns leading right almost on the same contour line. Follow this trail to the crag. The last stretch is rather exposed on loose gravel, be careful!
history
Discovered by olivier and Nina Caprez. Later mostly developed by Adrian Boulon, Ivan Muscat, Sébastien Bouin, Zorbey Aktuyun and Willam Barchelo.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Lord of the Ring | 8a | ||||||
2 |
Pulp Fiction
Set: Ivan Muscat | 8b | 55m, 2 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
Simple Basic
Shares first pitch with "Chich cobrab". Set: Ivan Muscat | 7c | 45m | |||||
4 |
Chich cobrab
Shares first pitch with "Simple Basic", then left. Set: Ivan Muscat FFA: Florence Pinet, 2019 | 8b | ||||||
5 |
Stormy Daniels
Left of Chich Cobrab. Set: Ivan Muscat | 8c | ||||||
6 |
LAL
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun | 8a | 55m, 2, 25 | |||||
7 |
Colpo Grosso
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun | 7c+ | 45m, 22 | |||||
8 |
Dilemma
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun | 8a | 45m, 20 | |||||
9 |
★ Lily’s Eyes
Initially graded 8c+ but downgraded by Gé Pouvreau to 8c. Set: Sébastien Bouin, 2018 FFA: Sébastien Bouin, 10 Dec 2018 | 8c | 60m | |||||
10 |
★ Battle of Titans
Just right of Bloody Married. 7c+ to first chain. Set: Adrien Boulon, Dec 2017 | 8c | 65m | |||||
11 |
Bloody Married
FFA: Adrien Boulon, Dec 2017 Set: Adrien Boulon, Dec 2017 | 8b+ | ||||||
12 |
Coco-bel-oeil
Set: Adrien Boulon, Dec 2017 | 8c | 65m |
1.11. Yenikale 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.729790, 27.613297
description
One of the cliffs for hotter days. It faces north and is vertical, slightly overhanging and technical on really good quality rock.
approach
Yenikale is located on the "back-side" of Indian Man. From Datça follow the road as for Indian Man but instead of turning left on the dirt road, continue on the main road in direction of Knidos. Just before the road starts climbing with a crash barrier on the right, take a left on a dirt road an park there on an abandoned stretch of road on the right (36.73165, 27.61587) (this road actually also leads to Indian Man).
From there hike up the main road until you see the yellowish section of the cliff above you. Continue for a bit more to see the actual trail starting up, passing right by a big block and leading to the cliff.
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Minagick
Set: olivier, Jan 2015 | 6a+ | 15m | |||||
2 |
★★ Jümar ma tué
Set: Bill Schnaps & Georges Profonde, Oct 2014 | 6a+ | 15m, 7 | |||||
3 |
Kaldir Beni
Set: olivier, Jan 2015 | 6c | 15m | |||||
4 |
Çek beni
Set: olivier, Jan 2015 | 7a | 15m | |||||
5 |
★★ Nadia o Nadie
Set: Vyril Cilard & Walter Kadenaz, Oct 2014 | 6b+ | 15m, 8 | |||||
6 |
Mazot
Set: Rakar le rouge, Oct 2014 | 7a+ | 25m, 12 | |||||
7 |
YetToBeNamed_04
Set: Rafsta, Jan 2015 | 7b | 25m, 11 | |||||
8 |
★ Pötibör
Set: Fera Kasket, Oct 2014 | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
9 |
Yeni Kale
Set: olivier, Oct 2014 | 7a+ | 25m, 13 |
1.12. Canyon 36 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.754902, 27.570951
summary
An amazing place in a breathtaking environment. A canyon with cliffs on the left and right with unlimited potential for further developments and some of the best cliffs of Datça.
description
This canyon is oriented straight South from the Northern shore of the peninsula in a completely lost stretch of coastline. The Karian trail passes at the parking from East to West and a donkey trail leads through the canyon. You might as well find a secluded beach further along the road to chill after a day of climbing.
This is the place to go for a full day of climbing. You may chase shade or sun, depending on the season and enjoy the quietness of nature with just the bees humming.
Be aware that the sectors here do not see a lot of traffic. Watch out for loose rock, bee hives and such.
approach
From Datça make your way in direction of Körmen Limani (the harbour where the ferry for Bodrum leaves) on the northern shore of the peninsula. About 300 meters before you reach the shoreline, take a dirt road on the left. Keep right at the first Y-junction and follow it for a bit more than 8km. Don't be surprised when it climbs up before it goes back down to the coast. You will see the obvious canyon coming from the left. Park there (36.76159, 27.57044) and hike up the well marked donkey trail to the different cliffs.
1.12.1. Bombé 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.756890, 27.571842
description
Sector facing the sector Les Frouzes. Still needs some climbing... A great sector to climb in the morning before heading over to Les Frouzes when the sun hits.
approach
A short approach from the car, up the canyon and then you will see the cliff on the left after the first section that climbs uphill a bit.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Scorpio
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 7c+/8a | 25m | |||
2 |
Mirage
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 8b+ | 30m | |||
3 |
L'oasis
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 7b+ | 45m, 2 | |||
4 |
Flashword
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 8a+ | 30m | |||
5 |
L’illusionniste
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 8a | 35m | |||
6 |
Le magicien
Same start as "L’illusionniste" but then right. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 7a | 30m |
1.12.2. Les Frouzes 22 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.756515, 27.570971
description
One of the best cliffs around, 70m high, alian tufas everywhere! An impressive piece of rock! In the shade after 13:00 (depending on the season).
approach
Hike up the trail through the canyon for 10 to 15 minutes, you will see "Bombé" on the left and just after that an impressive and tall cliff on the right. Here you are!
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Raki horror story L1
The leftmost line, before the rock becomes a bit brittle. Stays left of the tufas to an anchor just below the ledge. Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 7a+ | 27m, 10 | |||||
2 |
Raki horror story L2
With the first extension of "Raki horror story L1". Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 7b | 45m | |||||
3 |
Raki horror story L3
With the second extension all the way up. Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 8a+ | 65m | |||||
4 |
★★ Midnight express L1
The line right of the grey tufa. Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 6c+ | 27m, 9 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Midnight express L2
With the extension of "Midnight express L1". Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 7b+ | 50m | |||||
6 |
★★★ Lei lei
New beautiful route bolted in 2024 | 7a | 30m | |||||
7 |
★★★ Jean tasse les dents de fiottes L1
Starts on the round grey tufa with some broken parts and goes up left through amazing tufas, some of them dark black to an anchor above the ledge. Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015 | 6c+ | 32m, 12 | |||||
8 |
Jean tasse les dents de fiottes L2
With the extension of "Jean tasse les dents de fiottes L1". Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015 | 8a+ | 65m | |||||
9 |
★★★ Ja masse les dents de chèvres L1
Same start as Jean tasse les dents de fiottes L1 but branches out right after bolt 2 and follows the bolt line right of the obvious tufas to an anchor higher up. Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015 | 7a | 36m, 12 | |||||
10 |
Ja masse les dents de chèvres L2
With the extension of "Ja masse les dents de chèvres L1". Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015 | 8a | 70m | |||||
11 |
★★★ Les frouzes c'est abo L1
Starts on the far right of the upper platform or from down below. Superb, homogeneous climbing. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 7a | 25m, 10 | |||||
12 |
Les frouzes c'est abo L2
With the extension of "Les frouzes c'est abo L1". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 7c | 50m | |||||
13 |
Woulou
Same start as "Les frouzes c'est abo L1" but then right. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 7c | 35m | |||||
14 |
Woulou-Woulow
With the extension of "Woulou". Shares anchor with "Les frouzes c'est abo L2". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 8a+ | 55m | |||||
15 |
★★ La lune nulle L1
The tall line in the middle of the wall. Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 7c | 45m | |||||
16 |
★★★ La lune nulle L2
With the extension of "La lune nulle L1". Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 8a | 55m | |||||
17 |
DME
Start on "Les 1001 lunules", then take the far left line from the cave. Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 7c+ | 55m | |||||
18 |
DTC
Start on "Les 1001 lunules", then take the middle (left) line from the cave. Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 7b+ | 50m | |||||
19 |
Les 1001 lunules
Climb up into the hole and take the right line of bolts. Set: Benjamin Coup, Nov 2015 | 7a+ | 40m, 14 | |||||
20 |
CIFA style
Right of the hole, the one obvious easy climb. Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015 | 5c | 25m | |||||
21 |
Fox à pisse
Climb "CIFA style" and continue up. Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015 | 7c+ | 40m | |||||
22 |
Let’s gobons du Bonfile
Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015 | 7b/b+ | 40m |
1.12.3. Indirim 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.755277, 27.571899
description
This small cliff is just next to the trail, short powerful and still a lot of potential there! It is located in a narrow section of the canyon and thus stays in the shade all day.
approach
Hike up the canyon from the parking, pass the sectors "Bombé" and Les Frouzes to reach this sector on your left.
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Colle molle
Leftmost route with the first bolt left of the hole. Set: Benjamin Coup, Feb 2015 | 7b | 20m | |||||
2 |
Les couilles dans le bénitier
Just a bit further right starting in the steeper section of the wall. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015 | 7b+ | 20m | |||||
3 |
Pas de cerveau, pas de migraine
A few meters further right, starting with the tufa maze. Set: olivier, Feb 2015 | 7a | 20m | |||||
4 |
La semoule c'est béton
Left the big grey stalactite, following the line of tufas. Set: olivier, Feb 2015 | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
5 |
Ma bouzinette
Right of big grey stalactite. Set: Adrien Boulon, Feb 2015 | 6c+ | 20m |
1.12.4. Icefall 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.750047, 27.570997
description
Impressively nice rock. Almost pink limestone with grey tufas on the left side of the narrow section of the canyon. Very few people come up here to climb but just having a look is worth it.
approach
Continue for another 15 to 20 minutes up from "Les frouzes" to find this wall. Hard to miss on the left side where the canyon becomes narrow.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Sonate au claire de lune
Glue-in bolts. Pitch one has 18 bolts. Set: Patrick Rey, 2016 | 6c+/7a | 45m, 23 | |||
2 |
Riders on the storm
Glue-in bolts. Set: Patrick Rey, 2016 | 7a | 30m, 15 | |||
3 |
Le vent nous portera
Set: Patrick Rey, 2016 | 7b+ | 45m, 16 |
1.13. Emecik 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.786271, 27.796359
description
The south face of the Emecik mountain is full of rock. The characteristics of this rock are: well protected from north wind, it is a warm sector for winter and firestones are integrated into the lime stone (chert). There is a huge potential for new routes.
approach
From Datça drive in direction of Marmaris. About 8.5km after the left turn off for Kızlan (traffic light) take a small dirt road on your left (way before the village of Emecik). Follow this dirt road for about 1.7km and park there at a small junction (36.777396, 27.789877).
From there hike in to the right and follow the trails, not going too far right and staying left of the creek. At one moment you might loose the trail, continue through the bush until you reach open space again and climb up a bit steeper towards the left section of cliffs. Follow a small gravel / block field to reach the cliff.
Looking up, the routes are on the second wall, the one with the big left facing corner. Two routes are on the far left of the corner and two more a bit closer to the corner.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Maximum Tavuk
Set: olivier | 6b | 25m | |||||
2 |
Les Dürüms des ténèbres
Set: olivier | 7a | 28m | |||||
3 |
Tikka
Set: Rafsta | 6b | 35m | |||||
4 |
Tara
Set: Rafsta | 6b | 40m | |||||
|