South-West England Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. South-West England 5,728 routes in Region

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.892858, -3.855621

1.1. Somerset 2,125 routes in Region

7 1 6 4 3 2 5

1 Avon Gorge 2 Cheddar 3 Brean Down 4 Goblin Combe 5 Fairy Caves Quarry 6 Other Avon Crags 7 The Bloc

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.383509, -2.599851

1.1.1. Avon Gorge 842 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.462216, -2.630952

summary

Trad and sport climbing in the centre of Bristol

description

The Avon Gorge is located in the centre of Bristol, and is easily accessed by foot from town. Most of the climbing is on quarried rock, with large quantities of both sport and trad climbing to be found. Some un-quarried rock exists at the suspension bridge, with a very different feel to the rest of the crag.

1.1.2. Cheddar 573 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.286211, -2.754580

summary

A wide range of Sport and Trad climbing mostly single pitch, with a couple of long lines.

access issues

Some sections of the crag are restricted in the summer months due to liability, and others in the spring for nesting birds. Check the BMC websites for updates.

approach

Park in the gorge, each different area has a different approach.

1.1.3. Brean Down 79 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.326160, -3.018539

summary

Moderate to harder climbs on mainly south face sea cliffs

description

Mainly trad protected climbs on a mixed quality limestone. South-facing sea cliff. The Boulder Cave has a few bolted routes.

access issues

At the request of the owners of the land, The National Trust, please avoid the sand 'cliff' and the rocks adjacent to it.

approach

From the A38 or M5 jct 22, take the B3140 to Burham-On-Sea and Berrow from where a minor road runs northwards to a car park at the far end of the road. The crag is tidal. Most climbs can be accessed except at high tide.

1.1.4. Goblin Combe 73 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.384460, -2.764143

summary

Nice trad climbing in a forest setting. Close enough for an easy day from Bristol.

description

Goblin Combe is the smaller local crag to Bristol after Avon gorge, but without the cars and the noise. There are some real quality cracks and varied terrain, with a good variety of grades and styles.

access issues

A sign at the entrance states no climbing, this has been in place and ignored for a long time. Check on the BMC for any updates on access.

approach

The car park is approached from Cleve on cleve hill rd (BS49 4PQ)Park in Goblin Combe car park, a large gravel spot on your left 500m up the road.

Find the private road past a school leading to the combe proper. You can access this from the road, or just past the small quarry near the car park. (Facing the quarry walk left until you pass through onto the road). Follow the paved public pathway (sign for this) until you reach a gate. The gate says no climbing at the bottom, ignore this and walk around to the left. Follow the well maintained path until rocks appear on your left.

1.1.5. Fairy Caves Quarry 64 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.226658, -2.492903

summary

Slabs!

description

A large limestone quarry featuring some very good quality slabs up to 40m in height. The main areas mostly face north; nevertheless they get some sun from May to August and are quick to dry. The slabs can, however, remain damp for extended periods in the depths of winter. There is also an assortment of areas facing west, south and east: these are generally of lesser quality.

access issues

For access it is vital to first read the access notes issued by the BMC at http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=650. In particular note "The combination for the padlock can be obtained by emailing Ian Butterworth, the BMC SW Access Rep for Mendip & Somerset, at fcq@btinternet.com stating your name, contact details and membership of any climbing clubs or BMC. [BMC membership is not a condition of entry.] Ian will return the combination padlock code. He will maintain a list of those who have been provided with the code so they can be informed should it be changed." Ian is to be congratulated for the successful conclusion of a sustained period of negotiation.

1.1.6. Other Avon Crags 493 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.386463, -2.640896

summary

Mostly trad climbing in the centre of Bristol

description

Plenty of trad climbing and a tad of sport with easy access in bristol centre. Somewhat polished, well developed limestone crag.

approach

Multiple areas close to bristol. Can be walked from city centre. Easy to locate and short walk ins. Parking available if you have a car.

1.1.7. The Bloc 0 routes in Gym

description

http://www.blocclimbing.co.uk

1.2. North Devon 58 routes in Region

2 3 4

2 Baggy Point 3 Dyers Lookout 4 Hartland Quay

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.082406, -4.137251

1.2.1. The Culm Coast 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

1.2.2. Baggy Point 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.144546, -4.259039

1.2.3. Dyers Lookout 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.002536, -4.531456

description

Topo of the most famous routes on ukclimbing.com

1.2.4. Hartland Quay 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.994319, -4.533638

1.3. Dartmoor 207 routes in Region

6 5 15 2 9 8 10 12 11 13 14 4 1

1 The Dewerstone 2 Hay Tor 4 Sheepstor 5 Hound Tor 6 Heltor Rock 8 Little Mis Tor 9 Great Mis Tor 10 Vixen Tor 11 Swell Tor Quarry 12 Foggingtor Quarry 13 Lucky Tor 14 Bench Tor 15 Bonehill Rocks

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.567508, -3.930675

1.3.1. The Dewerstone 56 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.455269, -4.060401

summary

The dewerstone boasts some of the best granite cracks and trad climbs in the inland UK at approachable grades. Multipitch trad lines coming out of a sheltered forest make this a top crag.

description

The Dewerstone is one of the most popular locations in the south west, if going here you may want to arrive early in the morning in order to avoid the outdoor activities centers from getting in your way on your first ascent, other than that the dewerstone has many climbs in a few areas.

access issues

The track leading to the dewerstone is very uneven and requires you to scramble over boulders. the steps leading down to the main face are very steep and uneven as well as very slippery when wet.

approach

The dewerstone is approached from an obvious marked carpark (PL7 5HE). From the Dewerstone carpark follow the main track up along the river. Follow this for 20 minutes until rock outcrops start to appear. The main area is a very obvious large outcrop right next to the river.

The Dewerstone carpark is found on the south edge of Dartmoor national park and is only 30 min drive from the city of Plymouth.

where to stay

Wild camping is allowed in parts of the Dartmoor park (check their website) but not at the Dewerstone itself. Alternatively, the dewerstone is not far from plymouth so any hotels or b&b on the outskirts of plymouth are ideal.

ethic

Follow UK trad climbing ethic. No installation of bolts or defacing of rocks is accepted.

1.3.2. Hay Tor 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.579866, -3.755798

1.3.3. Dartmoor Boulders 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering and Rock climbing

1.3.4. Sheepstor 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.495464, -4.023484

description

sheeps tor is a wall of vertical granite, split by cracks of all shapes and sizes. the climbs here are all worthwile, and provide a high concentration of easy to mid grade routes that are not too intimidating.

approach

head towards Burrator reservoir (near to Yealmpton) once you get to the reservior head across the dam and follow signs to the hamlet of sheepstor. pass through the hamlet and take the first right onto open moorland. along the road there are several spaces to park. from here head up the hill to the crag.

1.3.5. Hound Tor 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.596968, -3.778033

1.3.6. Heltor Rock 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.670538, -3.700059

1.3.7. Blackingstone Rock 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.3.8. Little Mis Tor 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.568842, -4.029050

1.3.9. Great Mis Tor 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.574744, -4.032248

1.3.10. Vixen Tor 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.549972, -4.059055

access issues

Unfortunately the land owner has stopped access to vixen tor, however the council and bmc are trying to re-establish the area with public rights of way.

1.3.11. Swell Tor Quarry 0 routes in Crag

1.3.12. Foggingtor Quarry 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.544032, -4.025415

description

a great place to go, only when it is dry though. as far as nuts and cams go you will need either your smallest range or the largest you have.

approach

a 20-30 minute walk from the princetown car park, along the dismantled railway.

1.3.13. Lucky Tor 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.533412, -3.857186

1.3.14. Bench Tor 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.532696, -3.847190

1.3.15. Bonehill Rocks 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.583005, -3.792891

1.3.16. Leigh Tor 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.4. South Devon 168 routes in Region

2 11 12 3 4 7 1

1 Berry Head 2 Chudleigh 3 Anstey's Cove 4 Meadfoot Quarry 7 London Bridge 11 Torbryan Quarry 12 Chapel Woods

Summary:

Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.425770, -3.747443

1.4.1. Berry Head 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.398143, -3.487651

1.4.2. Chudleigh 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.596902, -3.605026

1.4.3. Anstey's Cove 74 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.474741, -3.501712

1.4.4. Meadfoot Quarry 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.454848, -3.515717

description

A nice place to climb, with public toilets and the beach nearby.

access issues

Relatively easy access.

approach

From the Daddyhole Plain car park, walk down the steps towards the trees and to the viewpoint area. From there, go across the railings and follow the dirt track to the bottom of the quarry. Otherwise, from Meadfoot beach, walk along the promenade to the rock at the end, which is called Triangle Point, and go across the rocks and into the quarry.

where to stay

Many hotels in the local area.

1.4.5. Daddyhole Main Cliff 0 routes in Crag

1.4.6. Telegraph Hole 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

1.4.7. London Bridge 0 routes in Crag

1.4.8. Saddle Point 0 routes in Crag

1.4.9. Coastguard Cliffs 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.4.10. Hurlstone Point 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.4.11. Torbryan Quarry 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.486253, -3.659020

1.4.12. Chapel Woods 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.474986, -3.547373

description

Site of an old quarry which has some good routes up the rock face.

1.5. Cornwall 210 routes in Region

1 3 4 7 9 5 6 10 11 12 13 14 20 15 16 19 17 18 22 21

1 Lower Sharpnose Point 3 Tintagel Head 4 Pentire Head 5 Cligga Head 6 Carn Gowla 7 Cheesewring Quarry 9 Roche Rock 10 Zennor Cliff 11 Gurnard's Head 12 Bosigran 13 Bosigran Ridge Area 14 Carn Kenidjack 15 Sennen Cove 16 Land's End 17 Carn Barra-Pordenack 18 Chair Ladder 19 St Loy 20 Trewavas 21 The Lizard 22 Lankidden Cove

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.437921, -4.974958

1.5.1. Lower Sharpnose Point 37 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.885980, -4.568373

summary

Incredible long thin fingers of Culm spear out into the ocean, creating an incredible exposed trad climbing experience

description

Lower Sharpnose point is a trad climbing venue in the culm coast. It is a serious venue with rap in climb out being the only method. Be very careful of being trapped by tides, and understand that the easiest escape is a VS chimney.

access issues

This is a trad only venue, consult local groups before new routing or adding any fixed gear.

approach

Park at duckpool bay Morwenstow, Bude EX23 9HW.

Find the walking track leading straight up the hill behind the car park (north). Follow this up onto the point and walk for approximately 20min. Once you see the large radar station, look for a path leading down left off the path to the point. The rocks will only become visible once you are closer. If you can see the fins of the point behind you, walk back up the track to find the off shoot. Once you can see the fins, scramble carefully down to them and look for an abseil point on the north fin (The only accessible fin). There is one good stainless steel piton and some trad gear. Abseil in down Out of the blue.

Make sure you know the tides, this crag is only accessible 3hrs either side of low tide The tide comes in very quickly and can catch you unexpectedly.

where to stay

Many options exist for paid campgrounds in the area. Note that wild camping is not legal and you may be moved on if you are found to park overnight at the bay.

ethic

Trad only ethic. Leave no fixed gear. Any fixed pegs should be treated with caution as they are not being replaced.

1.5.2. vicarage 9 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

summary

Classic culm coast rock fin

1.5.3. Tintagel Head 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.668835, -4.761783

1.5.4. Pentire Head 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.586253, -4.933530

1.5.5. Cligga Head 0 routes in Crag

1.5.6. Carn Gowla 0 routes in Crag

1.5.7. Cheesewring Quarry 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.525154, -4.458191

summary

Good range of Sport and trad routes

description

Man made Granite quarry, North of the village of Minions on the outskirts of Bodmin Moor.

access issues

Accessible all year round

approach

From the village of minions head north on the disused railway line for 1 mile

where to stay

Te Chy Bed and breakfast

ethic

Bolting is allowed in this quarry

1.5.8. Hawk's Tor 14 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

summary

Granite Tor

1.5.9. Roche Rock 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.401874, -4.828150

1.5.10. Zennor Cliff 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.198184, -5.577758

1.5.11. Gurnard's Head 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.191370, -5.598456

1.5.12. Bosigran 34 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.175873, -5.620433

summary

One of the great Cornish granite cliffs, Bosigran is likely the most popular and well traveled cliff in the area.

description

Bosigran boasts a series of granite walls and blocks from a few meters high to a hundred, with the longest climbs stretching upto three pitches. The area is all trad climbing, with walk off tops. Climbs exist across the whole grade range from mods to high E grades, enough to keep anyone happy.

approach

Follow the B3306 along the coast towards lands end. You will pass the town of Zennor and the bosigran farm B&B. Continue a few hundred meters more until you see an old smelting stack. Park at the national trust car park under the stack.

1.5.13. Bosigran Ridge Area 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.173810, -5.621776

1.5.14. Carn Kenidjack 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.133736, -5.703569

1.5.15. Sennen Cove 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.075731, -5.709002

1.5.16. Land's End 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.067394, -5.715784

summary

Exposed, lichenous climbs hidden in plain sight from tourist attractions nearby.

description

Despite being located in close proximity to the busy tourist attractions at Land's End, the cliffs and climbs in the area remain concealed from the view of the masses. They maintain an aura of seriousness that exceeds their location and height, adding to their allure.

The scenery in this area is remarkably stunning, and numerous climbs offer visually captivating routes to follow. However, it's important to note that the rock quality differs from the more popular cliffs nearby. The rock here tends to be grittier and covered in lichen, which adds a distinct character to the climbs.

approach

To reach Land's End, simply follow the signs directing you to the destination. Upon arrival, you can park your vehicle in the main car park designated for visitors.

1.5.17. Carn Barra-Pordenack 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.044070, -5.690219

1.5.18. Chair Ladder 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.036417, -5.680774

1.5.19. St Loy 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.049527, -5.610122

summary

Remote and photogenic crag with a relatively long but scenic approach.

description

Perched in a remote and picturesque location high above the sea, the primary face of St. Loy presents a formidable challenge. This wall, crafted from smooth, rounded granite, boasts a slightly leaning verticality. The climbing experience is exceptional; however, it's worth noting that the protection available on the more difficult routes is notably inadequate. Therefore, it is strongly advised against risking falls and opting for aerial manoeuvrers.

approach

To access the coast path, there is a designated right-of-way that traverses through Treverven Farm, which conveniently offers a well-equipped campsite. Climbers are required to inquire at the campsite office regarding parking arrangements and any related information.

1.5.20. Trewavas 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.090775, -5.352857

1.5.21. The Lizard 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.966909, -5.204572

description

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=19307#maps

1.5.22. Lankidden Cove 0 routes in Cliff

1.6. Lundy Heritage Coast 94 routes in Region

1

1 Lundy

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.178289, -4.667579

1.6.1. Lundy 94 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.177725, -4.668055

1.7. Gloucestershire 863 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.759581, -2.478527

1.7.1. Haresfield Beacon 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.772338, -2.251681

1.7.2. Wye Valley 860 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.759581, -2.663080

1.8. Dorset 2,001 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.576102, -2.197954

1.8.1. Portland 1,379 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.545542, -2.441659

summary

http://www.southampton.ac.uk/~imw/portmutton.htm

1.8.2. Swanage 455 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.609832, -1.996872

description

The Swanage area (including the bolted quarries to the west at Dancing Ledge, Winspit and Hedbury) offers a good variety of climbing; be it trad, dws or sport climbs.

1.8.3. Lulworth 115 routes in Area

Summary:

Deep water soloing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.618019, -2.221172

description

Access to Lulworth for climbers is restricted, best to check the BMC website for the latest details.

access issues

Access for climbers is prohibited in Lulworth. Check the BMC website for the latest information.

1.9. M5 motorway bridge 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.688289, -3.482886