Routes in South-West England for selected grade

Stick clip the thread first? Then dyno from the stance at the back of the cave to the lip! F.A. done without pre-clipping the thread.

A sport-style single pitch up the wall right of the diagonal break of Amanita Muscarina's third pitch. Start from the bolted belay at the start of the third pitch of Tour de France that is best reached via an awkward abseil from the top of the ramp or by starting up the lower pitches of Tour de France. Protection is provided by a collection of bolts, pegs and a large cam. On the left take the thin wall past a break and up a crack to a ledge (cam). The wall above leads to a thin break from where a move utilising a slot reaches a sequence of hard moves right to finish at a bolted belay. Abseil off or top out.

7c/7c+. Climb the easy opening sequence of 'Was It You’ to the thin break and natural peg and compose yourself for a direct assault up the holdless wall where the parent route wimps-out leftwards. At the thin horizontal seam make a ‘baby bouncer’ between the parent’s bolt and the peg on Tour de France. The final attack is made without any protection until the final bolt of the parent can be clipped, however a slightly safer option is to first, tenuously clip the peg on Tour de France with a long reach out right. Finish at the in-situ lower off.

Hard rockover onto heel hook and slopey nothings for hands. One poor peg protects.

Hard crimping passed pair of pegs, then scary upper section. Has been done ground up.

Very hard (and dirty) crimping past single ring bolt to top out of Slap Stick.

An eliminate up the lower wall between What About Me and Rancho Cucamonga. Start behind the budleia (if it's still there) and gain and pinch a poor sidepull. Placing the other foot on, dynamically gain an intermediate crimp and then go again out right for a bigger but dirty flat hold. Less positive holds above and to the right of this lead to a big move from a finger jug to the sanctuary of a niche and good wires. From the good break above (good hex and or cams) finish more direct to the left of Rancho, or to suit.

Straight up the wall to the right of the Prince. And just left of the crack.

Left hand line past two pegs and a great dynamic move for a sloper.

Hard, just off vertical climbing up wall left of the groove. Peg in the belay stops you rolling down to the car park if you come off.

The right hand side of the Pathos arête. Start up the bulging arête as for Pathos and Academic. Follow Pathos onto the grassy ledge then step up and right back onto the arête, fix a Friend 3.5 in the shallow slot and stretch to clip the peg (new and good) on Pathos. From the cam slot leave Pathos via a long reach to a big sloper on the arête. Continue up the right hand side of the arête via a series of hard snatches between small holds to the sanctuary of a good flat hold. Fix the final protection if desired (a slider 1, which can be borrowed from the first ascensionist) and make the final easier moves to a large ledge. Continue up the arête to the lower off of Academic and Eros.

Style of FA – Headpoint (process started before the reinstallation of the Pathos peg)

Also worth noting that second ascensionist Martin Crocker, climbed an easier and slightly safer left hand variation. From the big sloper this moves up the left-hand side of the arête with feet on the Pathos slab. This is E5 6b.

F7b+ climbing.

E7 without the bolt (A Smith June 2001). Follow Tunnel vision to start, then head up crimpy wall above (no side runners in 2B) to weird final rock over.

E7 without the bolt (F7a+ with)

F7c climbing.

1. 4b, 20m.

2. 5c, 20m.

3. 6c, 35m.

Climb Pink Ginsane direct without the traverse into Think Pink.

1. 5a, 25m.

2. 6c, 20m.

3. 6b, 18m.

A super direct between Bristol Diamond and FKD. Start as for FKD at the footledge. Take a hard direct line to a small side hold. Excellent small wires in the crack above. Make a hard rock up left onto a reasonable foothold and make tenuous moves to the fingerjug just below the peg on Bristol Diamond. Finishing up right of the crack.

Incredible ascent video of Anna Hazelnut on youtube

Traverse right from the low break through the porthole and finish up the arete

Not sure of the boulder name?

The fine undercut prow above the cave is THE classic of the Boulderfield. Start with both hands on a handrail at the back of the cave. Move out to the lip on good holds. Great compression moves lead up the prow.