Scotland Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Scotland 5,375 routes in Region

1 4 3 2 5

1 Northwest and Islands 2 West Coast & Central Highlands 3 The Cairngorms 4 North East Outcrops & Angus 5 Lowland Outcrops

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 57.957154, -4.168720

1.1. Northwest and Islands 1,295 routes in Region

1 2 5 6 7 8 11 9 10 13 14 3 15 24 23 12 30 26 25 27 28 4 31 16 17 18 29 32 33 34 53 54 38 49 47 46 48 50 45 44 42 41 51 52 43 19 40 39 20 35 37 36 21 22

1 Shetland 2 Orkney Isles 3 Outer Hebrides 4 Isle of Skye 5 Caithness 6 Sutherland 7 Reiff 8 Stac Pollaidh 9 Glutton Crag 10 Ardmair 11 The Mound area 12 Moy Rock 13 Carn Mor 14 Loch Maree Crag 15 Torridon 16 Sgurr a Chaorachain 17 Leacanashie Woods Crag 18 Duncraig 19 Ranochan Wall 20 Ardgour and Ardnamurchan 21 Isle of Mull 22 Iona 23 Little Red Rock 24 Raven's Rock 25 Kessock Bridge Boulders 26 Ord Hill 27 The Mast (Zig Zag Boulders) 28 The Mast (Hospital Bloc) 29 Drum Boulder 30 Creag Ghlas 31 Sgurr na Muice 32 Cragaig 33 Creag Lundie Slabs 34 Druim Shionnach 35 Snake Crag 36 Creach Bheinn 37 Ardgour Boulders 38 Glen Pean 39 The Glenfinnan Area 40 Mast crags 41 Boathouse Crag 42 Craiglea 43 Glen Shian 44 Schoolhouse Crags 45 Loch Beag Slab 46 Clach a’ Phrionnsa (Prince’s Stone) 47 European Union Crag 48 Crimson Crag 49 Beasdale boulder 50 Borrodale Crags 51 Black Rock, Arisaig 52 Arisaig Cave 53 Creag Mhor Bhrinicoire 54 Loch Morar Boulders

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 58.533840, -4.408731

1.1.1. Shetland 19 routes in Region

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 60.252412, -1.338705

1.1.2. Orkney Isles 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 59.169985, -2.689904

1.1.3. Outer Hebrides 112 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.720376, -7.068974

1.1.4. Isle of Skye 101 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 57.454163, -6.481695

1.1.5. Caithness 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 58.513654, -3.275850

1.1.6. Sutherland 23 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 58.327629, -4.408987

1.1.7. Reiff 53 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 58.083954, -5.437082

1.1.8. Stac Pollaidh 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 58.043560, -5.205211

1.1.9. Glutton Crag 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 57.946737, -5.142462

1.1.10. Ardmair 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.936671, -5.181245

where to stay

Ardmair Holiday Park

1.1.11. The Mound area 60 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 57.951211, -4.057440

1.1.12. Moy Rock 64 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 57.567214, -4.482746

summary

Conglomerate cliff - mainly well equipped bolted sport routes. Helmet is thoroughly recommended, especially for the belwayer.

description

Excellent south facing crag. Very quick drying, seemingly with it's own micro climate - often gloriously sunny when in Inverness it is raining heavily.

access issues

Don't block the gate onto the main road. Often Ravens nesting on the route which bears their namesake.

approach

Park on the grass verges ( 57.558383, -4.515584) to each side of the paved entrance - do not block the gate as this is used frequently by the estate staff with vehicles. From the road walk toward the obvious cliffs up clear paths. Less than 200m walk from the roadside.

where to stay

Inverness is a very short drive (15 mins), or there are numerous options within walking distance. The area is very popular for fishing and hiking.

ethic

Ravens nest here frequently. Check the Mountaineering Scotland website for updates on bird bans.

1.1.13. Carn Mor 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.741510, -5.395632

summary

A remote crag in a wild and beautiful setting with many superbly situated fine climbs.

description

Faces south and the gneiss dries relatively quickly. The lower tier routes are generally not in the same league as the many fine routes in the upper tier, except for perhaps Balaton.

access issues

No Access during Stalking season (Sept -Jan) Enquires at Inverin Estates.

Approach slopes can be tick infested so check well after a visit during the summer months.

approach

Very remote and best enjoyed in a multi day trip. The walk takes about 4hrs, cycling reduces it to 3-3.5hrs.

(57.763956, -5.601314)

1.1.14. Loch Maree Crag 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 57.731212, -5.565884

summary

Awesome, sustained climbing, offering both sport and trad.

description

It dries very quickly despite facing north-west and north-east.

approach

(57.741931, -5.582767

A path can be followed a little above the shoreline. If the bracken is too high, try approaching by the shore until forced up, then down again.

1.1.15. Torridon 26 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.611409, -5.569418

1.1.16. Sgurr a Chaorachain 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.413689, -5.672901

1.1.17. Leacanashie Woods Crag 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 57.362760, -5.567890

summary

Mainly dry tooling routes with a couple of sport. All routes listed as Alpine are in fact Dry Tooling routes. There is no option to list them as this in the drop down menu.

1.1.18. Duncraig 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 57.342768, -5.589408

summary

Very convenient (a few meters walk in) sport crag.

1.1.19. Ranochan Wall 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.879871, -5.578653

1.1.20. Ardgour and Ardnamurchan 5 routes in Region

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.724454, -6.110474

1.1.21. Isle of Mull 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.437940, -6.054340

1.1.22. Iona 71 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 56.327487, -6.413668

1.1.23. Little Red Rock 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.600595, -4.555292

1.1.24. Raven's Rock 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.609188, -4.574205

1.1.25. Kessock Bridge Boulders 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 57.509503, -4.227113

1.1.26. Ord Hill 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 57.510419, -4.232009

1.1.27. The Mast (Zig Zag Boulders) 56 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 57.461189, -4.284607

1.1.28. The Mast (Hospital Bloc) 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 57.455010, -4.288992

1.1.29. Drum Boulder 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 57.326800, -4.492971

1.1.30. Creag Ghlas 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.546386, -4.932504

1.1.31. Sgurr na Muice 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.431112, -4.955656

1.1.32. Cragaig 0 routes in Crag

1.1.33. Creag Lundie Slabs 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.150794, -5.056685

1.1.34. Druim Shionnach 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.126249, -5.187246

1.1.35. Snake Crag 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.691699, -5.383078

1.1.36. Creach Bheinn 0 routes in Crag

1.1.37. Ardgour Boulders 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 56.684104, -5.450291

1.1.38. Glen Pean 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 56.949115, -5.470580

1.1.39. The Glenfinnan Area 45 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.873555, -5.497437

1.1.40. Mast crags 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.876789, -5.511698

1.1.41. Boathouse Crag 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.886893, -5.611407

1.1.42. Craiglea 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.888284, -5.639310

1.1.43. Glen Shian 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.881144, -5.650944

1.1.44. Schoolhouse Crags 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.888506, -5.704373

1.1.45. Loch Beag Slab 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.888500, -5.734092

1.1.46. Clach a’ Phrionnsa (Prince’s Stone) 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.893111, -5.764902

1.1.47. European Union Crag 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.894107, -5.755987

1.1.48. Crimson Crag 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.893106, -5.756213

1.1.49. Beasdale boulder 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 56.894389, -5.757968

1.1.50. Borrodale Crags 36 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.891255, -5.786295

1.1.51. Black Rock, Arisaig 36 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.886105, -5.815571

1.1.52. Arisaig Cave 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 56.883683, -5.865382

1.1.53. Creag Mhor Bhrinicoire 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.965804, -5.714432

1.1.54. Loch Morar Boulders 33 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 56.963844, -5.717813

1.2. West Coast & Central Highlands 1,252 routes in Region

2 1

1 West Highlands 2 Central Highlands

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.439919, -4.892933

summary

An area dotted with big mountain trad routes and smaller trad crags.

description

Key areas are: Ben Nevis, Glen Coe, Creag Dubh and Dunkeld.

1.2.1. West Highlands 720 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.091879, -5.405170

summary

Some of the best winter and summer multi-pitch trad venues in all of Scotland.

description

From as west as Mallaig to Glen Coe and Arrochar, and as far south as Isle of Arran.

Not including the central belt, or the Cairngorms.

1.2.2. Central Highlands 532 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 56.912437, -3.999607

summary

Some of the most visited outcrops in Scotland.

description

Ranging from Invernes to Crieff, as west as Fort William/Glencoe, and as south as Arrochar. Not including the central belt, or the Cairngorms.

1.3. The Cairngorms 316 routes in Area

1 2 3 5 4 6 7 8

1 Coire an t-Sneachda 2 Coire an Lochain 3 Loch Avon Basin 4 Creagan a' Choire Etchachan 5 Garbh Choire 6 Pass of Ballater 7 Lochnagar 8 Glen Clova (Red Craig)

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.989629, -3.363935

summary

The go-to place in winter for most visitors, but also a playground of summer multi-pitch trad climbs.

1.3.1. Coire an t-Sneachda 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 57.107449, -3.660926

summary

One of the most reliable and easily accessed winter climbing venues in Scotland. Its altitude and northerly aspect allow its rocky mixed routes to come into condition easily.

description

The relatively short approach from the Cairngorm ski centre, combined with plenty of good climbs in the low to mid grades, mean it is often busy, particularly early in the season. Although it is best known as a mixed climbing venue, there is also a surprising amount of worthwhile rock climbing in summer, including the classic Magic Crack. Beware rockfall in thaw periods.

approach

(57.135846, -3.671698)

1.3.2. Coire an Lochain 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 57.104955, -3.680215

summary

A slightly longer approach than its neighbour, Corrie an t-Sneachda, makes this corrie a lot quieter.

description

Some excellent, reliable winter climbing - the steeper nature of this corrie yields some excellent technical mixed climbing and also very good rock climbing.

approach

(57.135846, -3.671698)

Be very aware of snow conditions in Corrie an Lochain. The 'Great Slab' is a notorious avalanche black spot, and should be avoided at all costs should avalanche conditions prevail i.e. during/after heavy snow or thaw.

1.3.3. Loch Avon Basin 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.101518, -3.634403

summary

This area features some of the very best routes on Cairngorm granite.

approach

(57.135846, -3.671698)

Best approach is from Coire Cas - either by the Fiacaill a Choirrie Cas or via the Goat Track in Coire an t'Sneachda

where to stay

The Shelter Stone and surrounding boulders provide some howfs and bivi sites. Protect your food from scavenging mice.

1.3.4. Creagan a' Choire Etchachan 0 routes in Crag

1.3.5. Garbh Choire 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 57.093185, -3.470337

1.3.6. Pass of Ballater 183 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.060666, -3.041961

summary

The quick-drying Craig an t'Seabhaig at the Pass of Ballater provides some brilliant, steep climbs on generally excellent Cairngorm Granite.

Popular with Aberdonians - excellent wet weather alternative if Creag an Dubh Loch and Lochnagar are shrouded in cloud.

Surrounding woodland provides interesting flora and fauna - esp. ants.

description

Large south facing crag.

Must-dos: Peels Wall (E4 6a), Rattlesnake (E3 6a), Anger and Lust (E2 5c), Smith's Arete (E5 6a), Lucky Strike (VS 4c), Little Cenotaph (HVS 5b)

approach

Park your car at the bottom of the crag in the small car park (57.059849, -3.043871). Follow the footpath until you see a steep pathed slope. The crag begins at the top of the footpath. Stick to path as erosion is a problem.

ethic

Trad climbing only. Respect the local environment and leave no trace. Make sure to clear anchors as there has been a lot of scrap webbing abandoned at the crag.

Bird nesting may happen during season (March-September). Please be vigilant and don't climb when they are present.

1.3.7. Lochnagar 68 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.954119, -3.269529

1.3.8. Glen Clova (Red Craig) 21 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.867892, -3.162228

summary

Roadside crag with a sunny aspect, which can be climbed on for most of the year. Good quality natural trad lines, mostly single pitch, although some two-pitch routes may be found.

description

A classic of Scotland for good trad cragging. Provides grades from Moderate to E8 in a beautiful setting. The crag is divided in two main areas: The Dun Mor hill (containing the Upper and Lower Doonie) to the west above the quarry, and the Main Cliffs (containing several buttresses), which sit on top of the scree slope near the road.

Descent: easy walk-offs are possible on the side of the hills, however there is a convenient ab point on top of Red Wall (E1) on the Upper North-West crag, and another by the trees left of the top of Vindaloo on the Upper Doonie.

access issues

No issues.

approach

Drive on the B955 towards the Glen Clova Hotel. When you reach the hotel, turn left towards the Glen Doll Car Park. After driving 4.10km (2.55miles), you'd have arrived to the base of the slope from where you want to hike up to the crag. Park on the side of the road (56.865432, -3.163804) , being considerate of farmers and landowners, and avoiding the obvious laybys used for passing vehicles. Alternatively, continue driving for another 0.5km (2000ft) and you'll find a nice old quarry where parking is much more convenient (56.867293, -3.168910). This second option gives direct access to The Doonie.

ethic

No bolts or fixed anchors. For lower-off, either walk down or set up a rappel station.

Always check possible BIRD NESTING RESTICTIONS that may be active.

Please check Mountaneering Scotland - Bird and Nesting updates before your visit.

1.4. North East Outcrops & Angus 804 routes in Crag

1 2 3 4

1 Moray Firth Coast 2 Coast North of Aberdeen 3 Coast South of Aberdeen 4 Angus

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 57.191373, -2.417172

summary

All of the East coast of Scotland goodness.

description

From north of Angus to Peterhead and the north coast towards Inverness.

1.4.1. Moray Firth Coast 279 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.683570, -2.785302

1.4.2. Coast North of Aberdeen 27 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.432113, -1.942352

summary

Sea cliffs offering a wide range of conditions, rock formations, lengths and styles.

description

Mostly trad venues tidal and non-tidal options, and some decent sport spots.

1.4.3. Coast South of Aberdeen 173 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 57.064334, -2.113133

1.4.4. Angus 325 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.596075, -2.855165

summary

Mostly quarried sport venues.

description

One of the highest concentration of easy-access and "easy" sport climbing venues of Scotland. Grades normally range from 5 to 7a, with a few venues offering 7b or 8a.

1.5. Lowland Outcrops 1,708 routes in Area

7 3 8 1 2 4 5 6

1 Cambusbarron North 2 Cambusbarron Quarry 3 Fife 4 Edinburgh / East Lothian / Fast Castle 5 Glasgow Outcrops 6 The Outcrops of the South West 7 St. Andrews 8 Wolfcrag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 55.516798, -3.677538

summary

Also called the Central Belt, this area mainly focuses on crags (mostly quarries) between Glasgow and Edinburgh, with some others north and south of them.

description

This area covers the venues of the ever popular Lowland's of Scotland from Ben A'an in the Trossachs to the granite mountains and sea cliffs of Galloway. Includes Dumbarton Rock and its boulders, Craigmore, Aberdour, Traprain Law and many other popular crags.

1.5.1. Cambusbarron North 0 routes in Area

summary

One of the best venues in the central belt for those operating in the E3-5 range (plenty to go at above and below too).

description

Even though the crag has since a bit of a renaissance in 2017 with a committed band of locals tidying things up, clearing back vegetation and giving some of the routes a much needed scrub, a lot more is there to do yet, with lines suffering from moss accumulation and bad conditions.

Very sheltered, left wall catches evening sun in summer. However, can seep quite a bit over the winter. Very close to the M9 so makes an ideal stopping off point if heading further north or south.

approach

(56.107574, -3.976590)

Walk straight south and after passing a bunch of fallen trees you'll reach the crag in 3-4 mins.

1.5.2. Cambusbarron Quarry 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.105741, -3.977222

summary

Pleasant outlook that dries quickly. Year-round climbing possible.

description

As with all the Central belt dolerite quarries there is often loose rock to be found here, particularly on the top-outs and even on well established routes.

approach

(56.107574, -3.976590)

Park at the west end of Old Drove Road, walk through the barrier, and after about 60m take the left path (sign-posted) that goes slightly uphill. First route on the left is a lonely pillar with an interesting E1 (Ninety-Five).

1.5.3. Fife 180 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.220808, -3.151313

1.5.4. Edinburgh / East Lothian / Fast Castle 117 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.862250, -3.062694

1.5.5. Glasgow Outcrops 270 routes in Area

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 55.795123, -4.386258

1.5.6. The Outcrops of the South West 1,020 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 55.072620, -4.310978

1.5.7. St. Andrews 7 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 56.332121, -2.765186

summary

A few boulders along the shore east of the city.

description

There are a few problems on Maiden Rock, Fish Boulder, and some walls in the small area. It is not worth travelling for this, but fun if you are in St Andrews anyway.

approach

Walk along the shore from St. Andrews Beach to a prominent upright stone formation called Maiden Rock. Most of the bouldering is about 200m past Maiden Rock.

1.5.8. Wolfcrag 88 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 56.159813, -3.951063

summary

This fine-grained greenstone quarry in the leafy Stirling suburb of Bridge of Allan provides the best bouldering in the area. An excellent mix of crimps and jugs, with a flat surface for landings.

description

For e-Guide https://www.no-thrills.com/stirling-climbing

access issues

Turn left after crossing the Allan Water Bridge, drive up the hill and turn right. Park next to the large patch of grass and go left up the small hill. About a 2 minute approach on foot.

approach

Very simple 2 minute approach once parked. Easy access via public transport and short walk, train to Bridge of allan then its a short 10-15min walk uphill to the crag.

where to stay

Stirling or bridge of allan, potential camping spots throughout the area.

ethic

Grotty quarry, great climbing