Like its near neighbour, there is lots of entertainment to be had on this route including some tough but avoidable moves on the third pitch and a fine arete on the fourth. Start at a corner 5m down and right of the beginning of The Easy Way Down.
10m. Climb the slightly earthy corner to ledges (on The Easy Way Down) and belay at a tree.
18m. Just to the right is a short rectangular section of rock, above which is a wide crack. Gain the wall right of the crack and climb it boldly to a ledge above the wide crack. Head up right of a tree to a corner and take this to a huge flat ledge. Walk right to belay at a 3m well-defined hand-crack.
4a, 10m. Nip up the hand-crack and then move over to below a short well-scratched finger-crack. Climb the crack - hard - and then easy ground to belay below a short slab just right of a tree.
18m. Climb the short slab and move up to under the blocky arete of the buttress above. The arete, started on its right-hand side, is excellent. Belay on good ledges above.
12m. The crack-line up the final buttress gives a fine finish. Belay at the very top of the crag on flat ledges.
There is no known route history.
vd 4a | Assigned grade |
Author(s): Gordon Jenkin and Mark Davies
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9781800681361
A comprehensive guidebook describing over 400 sport routes in the Lower Wye Valley at Wyndcliff Quarry, Black Cliff Quarry, Woodcroft Quarry, Wintour’s Leap, Ban-y-gor, and Tintern Quarry.
Author(s): Steve Broadbent
Date: 2024
ISBN: 9781913167127
A selective guidebook describes the best sport climbing areas in the southern half of England and Wales, describing 101 crags and over 4,600 routes covering Carmarthen Bay, the Gower Peninsula, Swansea Bay, the Welsh Valleys, Gilwern, the Wye Valley, Avon, north side of Cheddar Gorge, Portland, Lulworth, Swanage, Devon, and Cornwall.
Author(s): Mark Glaister
Date: 2022
ISBN: 9781873341889
10 top climbing areas of the southwest of England - Wye Valley, Avon and Somerset, North Devon, Culm Coast, Inland Cornwall, Atlantic Coast, West Penwith, The Lizard, Inland Devon and Torbay
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