Rating | Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
4261
points
| 11+ | Heim nach Afrika — 18 attempts | 30m | Kochel | Nov 2022 | ||||
4029
points
| 9a | ★★ Joe Cita | Oliana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 7th Apr 2021 | ||||
Still struggling to find the right words to describe what this means to me especially when you haven't even started to dream about it because it felt soo far away! What a crazyy too perfect to be true dream;) 5 more tries after the straight lines to clipp the chains of this combi beast with the help of low expectations, prime conditions and most important the very best crew around! Muchas gracias y'all for sharing this special moment:) more Infos on my Insta!
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3902
points
| 8b+ | ★★★ Humildes pa casa (Los Humildes pa Casa) | 48m | Oliana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 24th Mar 2021 | |||
No words for how much this means to me! Feels so crazy good when everything luckily works out perfectly during that only ONE chance:) especially on such a tufakingline with tons of kneebars! The pump almost threw me off on the final slab... Thx Blondi for cheering me up to fulfill a little dream:)
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|||||||||
3884
points
| 8c+ | ★★★ Mind control | 45m | Oliana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 2nd Apr 2021 | |||
#2go This kingline tops everything regarding next level rockquality and the beautiness of the moves! A blue limestone stripe featured with little bubbles and tufas only which are still pretty sharp after so much traffic... A name who suits perfectly like no other;) Only about controlling the mind all the way with the most risky section near the top: the famous dynamic crossmove where you constantly have to switch between fully commitment and holding the tension! Merci à Jan, Michi & Blondi:)
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|||||||||
3881
points
| 8c+ | ★★★ Joe Blau | Oliana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 24th Mar 2021 | ||||
Seems like once the sending train is rolling, it's no that easy to stop again;) this was literally one of the most unexpected sends ever by still being pumped from the onsight an hour before but therefor I had the right commitment and flow in my movements! Mostly about getting through the resistency lower half but mentally it just starts there and isn't over till you survived the topslab! 3rd try in total but first real attempt from the ground after sticking the jump! What a surreal day!!!
|
|||||||||
3862
points
| 10+ | ★★★ König Ludwig | Oberammergau | ★★★ Classic | Thu 17th Dec 2020 | ||||
A shame that it's so chipped but the moves are still pretty cool and technical! The full line doesn't looks bad to be honest;)
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|||||||||
3777
points
| 8b | ★★★ La marroncita (Marroncita) | 35m | Oliana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 20th Mar 2021 | |||
Another Oliana gem went down way quicker than expected without any warmup! Luckily the wind got stronger and the grip better the higher I got:) somehow managed to read all those tricky bouldery sequences just perfect that I was literally cruising up the climb with the pump kicking in while lowering down;) deserves more than 5 stars!
|
|||||||||
3776
points
| 8b | ★★★ De picos pardos (Picos Pardos) | 45m | Oliana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 17th Mar 2021 | |||
When the restday gets out off control and your other projects aren't free! Sending train at the cliff today with two other ascents at the same time; the Spanish guys were cheering soo loud that it even helped me passing the crux with thousands of dropknees! Perfect 5star bubble tufas in the upper part:)
|
|||||||||
3763
points
| 8b | ★★★ La mala (L1+L2) (La Mala) | 40m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd Feb 2021 | |||
One looong move to the tufa!
|
|||||||||
3763
points
| 8b | ★★★ La mala (L1+L2) (La Mala) | 40m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd Feb 2021 | |||
Why does this beautiful climb hasn't got a more positive name like f.e. 'La muy buena'? Soo happy that it worked out first try:)
|
|||||||||
3749
points
| 11- | ★★★ VQ (Vaginal Qual) (VQ) | Kochel | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Mar 2021 | ||||
As always in Kochel climbs soo much better than it looks: a real powerendurance diamond! The actual crux was after the big undercling in the end where I lost both feet and missed the jug about 3 times during the send... what a battle:) only possible with the support from Nils who's hanging 3m to the left of me, Malik & my send belayer Kevin:) 2 days, 5 tries
|
|||||||||
3739
points
| 8c | ★★★ Identification y placa (Identifacation y placas) | 40m | Oliana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 8th Apr 2021 | |||
Another diamond which definitely got me out of my confort zone;) my wingspan wasn't enough to reach from the juggy pocket to the big hole so I had to be extra creative; luckily I found a bad undercling and a painful mono to stand up after a few unsuccessful goes trying the jump! Almost slipping of the next hold made it extra exciting but luckily the upper part was pretty relaxed, so exactly the other way around compared to Blondi;) 4th try
|
|||||||||
3736
points
| 8c | ★★★ Paper mullat | 45m | Oliana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 29th Mar 2021 | |||
#2go Just barely made it through the reachy lower part what made clipping the chains 2nd try already even more special, especially with 20m of pure kneebaring up this perfect structured tufa to the top:) soo cool to see how many different betas are working here: tall boys are jumping far and small ladies are pinching and heelhooking hard;) 8b+/c
|
|||||||||
3734
points
| 8c | ★★★ El gran blau | 50m | Oliana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 22nd Mar 2021 | |||
#2go 8b+/c; another masterpiece of an endurance climb featured with some powerful kneebary bouldering after the big hole, bunching around on amazing little tufa pinches followed by the crux once again located at the last few meters! Gracias Moi, Bobby, Blondi & everybody else for the nice spirit:) psyched for the full line now but still a lot of adjustment needed! No wind today didn't made it easier;)
|
|||||||||
3734
points
| 8c | ★★★ Fish eye | 50m | Oliana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 21st Mar 2021 | |||
#2go Stoked about clipping the chains of another big classic 2nd try! Cold & windy condis but half way up, it got warmer than expected and I had some big struggles getting out of my pullover;) awesome good rockquality with a spicy slab right before the top! Thx Charlotte & Sam for giving me some beta-input for the lower part including some sneaky kneebars:) you gonna crush it soon!
|
|||||||||
3733
points
| 8c | ★★★ American Hustle (American Hastle) | 45m | Oliana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Mar 2021 | |||
#2go No way, did this really happened!? Quite untypical style for Oliana but a true kingline in the middle of the cliff! For me about 8 boulders mostly with tensiony shoulder- & underclingmoves seperated by good rests all the way to a spicy slab at 50m where I totally forgot my beta... windy condis, lots of cheering from the crew & low expectations made it possible:) one of the closest battles I ever had!
|
|||||||||
3722
points
| 8c | ★★★ Mundo soñado | 40m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 9th Feb 2021 | |||
\=Dreamworld, what a suitable name for such perfect line crossing the whole cave including all styles of climbing! Rather hidden gem, maybe also because cleaning is for the hardest and most dangerous part... 2days, four real tries but a few more for startdyno! Best support by Isi once again:)
|
|||||||||
3719
points
| 8c | ★★★ Primer asalto | 32m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 30th Jan 2021 | |||
2 brutal steep boulders with a semi good rest in between! Fell once at the veryy last move, changed my beta to change it again spontaneously during the send;) the hardest part was probably finding a suitable beta at first, thx for the belays Isi & Andi!
|
|||||||||
3718
points
| 11- | ★★★ QL | Kochel | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 26th Nov 2020 | ||||
What a 'QL' basically natural 25 moves resistence gem! Totally enjoyed the process of trying hard close to my limit even though it turned into a mindgame during the 3rd session as I knew it's my last chance for quite a while with perfect conditions and being well rested! Nervous first go but the flowy 2nd try let me clip the chains of one of my hardest & favourite in Kochel so far! Muchas gracias to Isi for all the belays and the perfect support:) 9tries at all, more crispy fall days please!
|
|||||||||
3717
points
| 8b | ★★★ Radote Joli Pépère (Radote jolie pépère) | 40m | Céüse | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 31st Aug 2020 | |||
Things like this only will happen when you don't expect them at all! Just wanted to boulder up once to warm up for an onsight in the left one but directly found myself clipping the chains of this exposed kingline as well:)) two bouldery sections seperated by a big rest; couldn't see anything while coming around on this edge in the 2nd crux as the sun was still in the wall...
|
|||||||||
3714
points
| 8b | ★★★ Cost of Freedom | 40m | Tournoux | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 22nd Aug 2020 | |||
Got much more pumped than the day before on the steep plastic climbs;) pure fun with this stunning view behind but unfortunately a bit chipped!
|
|||||||||
3713
points
| 11- | ★★★ Mastermind | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 8th Nov 2020 | ||||
#2go Dreamroute for small peple and crimplovers as there's a high foothold for every move! Prime condis in the shade:) enjoying these beautiful autumn vibes in Franken finally again with Kevin to its fullest!
|
|||||||||
3703
points
| 11- | ★★★ Formiert=Voi miad (Formiert) | Kochel | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 7th Oct 2020 | ||||
#FA I've been "Voi miad" after clipping the chains of this old forgotten project/combi (from Markus Meier; thx Toni L. for motivating me to give it a try) at Afrikawand within 4 tries but with knowing some sections pretty well already, which makes the grading even harder;) no possibilities to rest during this 38 moves resistence beast! The direct and more logical version of "Ratzfatz..." Biggest thanks Isi for all the belays including the sending one. More infos on Insta:)
|
|||||||||
3670
points
| 8c | ★★★ Dures Limites | 30m | Céüse | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 23rd Aug 2020 | |||
Magic send with the best supportive crew (thx Malik and Ferdi for the belays);) first real project in Céüse; hardest and most attractive route ever so far! Prime condis let me clipp the chains within 5 tries totally unexpected (2nd session, 3rd day on) never could link many moves before, changed the toehook beta in the first crux and somehow sent it directly after getting through this tension based section the first time... mental fight till the very rather antistyle end!:)
|
|||||||||
3669
points
| 11- | ★★★ Klondike Cat | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 14th Jun 2020 | ||||
Really enjoyed trying this great endurance climb with its big lockoffs and tiny often painful crimps;) the deadpoint move to the 2 fingercrimp at the 4th bolt was the stoppermove for me but once I've got it I've sent the whole line directly with shaky legs! Happy to have clipped the chains in my 5th try in total even despite these humid condis:)
|
|||||||||
3663
points
| 11- | ★★★ Father and Son | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 28th May 2020 | |||
What a day, after a few perfect warmup onsights at Weidlwanger, I somehow didn't got pumped at all in this powerendurancy line! Tried it the first time a week ago with a few totally wet holds and stupid beta... two days ago, a guy at the crag gave me a pretty solid beta for the upper part and today, I bouldered up once, brushed the soaked holds in the crux, came down and almost flew up the wall! 5 tries
|
|||||||||
3659
points
| 8c | ★★★ Janus+ | 25m | Nassereith | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 17th Jul 2020 | |||
8b+/c; already fell in love with this powerendurancy line last year without touching the holds by just belaying and after bouldering up once I dreamed about coming back the whole winter! What a journey of mostly continious progress by finding all these little tricks and right bodypositions to stay on the wall while coming from the ground! Took me about 10 tries to stick the far crux move the first time and was lucky to stay calm till the chains with a fresh speedy flow that day:)
|
|||||||||
3657
points
| 11- | ★★★ Battle Cat | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 6th May 2020 | ||||
3rd go after doing Cringer in the morning! Always has been my dream to try this beauty someday but bever thought to clip the chains that fast! Found a really nice toehook beta which made the move to the crack pretty safe and just fell once by missing one of the tiny crimps before the big undercling... rather got pumped in the biceps than in the forearms;) biggest thx to my best sendbelayer/-supporter ever:)
|
|||||||||
3657
points
| 11- | ★★★ Cringer | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 6th May 2020 | ||||
5th go but as the very first route in the 2nd session without any warmup and with numb fingertips...! Slowly finding all these little details for the perfect body positions made it possible but the kegs still were shaking like hell and skipping 3 bolts in the runout made it even more fun
|
|||||||||
3651
points
| 11- | ★★★ Roof Warrior | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 18th Apr 2020 | ||||
#2go Omg never expected to climb through this stunning roof within 2 tries! Struggled to find a suitable beta at first but in the end I just took Kev's beta again:) my mind was free from any pressure during the send especially because I was completely pumped already at the beginning of the roof and the conditions also were pretty humid abd shitty but this helped me to stay relaxed till the top where the emotions exploded:)))
|
|||||||||
3650
points
| 8a+ | ★★★ Mon dieu | 32m | Oliana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 17th Mar 2021 | |||
Pure resistence gem only on crimps with perfect windy condis made it doable! Thx Blondi for the psyche today, the neverstopping cheering and congrats for sending your mini-proj with ease!
|
|||||||||
3650
points
| 11- 11- to 11 | ★★★ Odd Fellows | 17m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 12th Apr 2020 | |||
First 8c crazyy shit only 7 tries over 2 days! Was in love with the bouldery moves from the first time on it and already got to the last shouldermove in the 2nd try. Then the mindgame started and I never reached this point for the next 4 tries... the next go my flow was way better in the crux but I got the last crimp just as a mono and somehow managed to finish it off with the biggest smile:) Happy that I didn't listened to the others and for the first time made the desiciin by myself to try something because the 8b to the right felt so much harder for me;)
|
|||||||||
3637
points
| 8a+ | ★★★ La buena | 40m, 17 | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 31st Jan 2021 | |||
The name says it all a real beautyy:) intense powerful first half on pinches followed by flowy endurance climbing to the chains at 40m! No expectations let me sink into the present even more:)
|
|||||||||
3634
points
| 8a+ | ★★★ La montaña mágica (L1) (La montaña mágica) | 36m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 24th Jan 2021 | |||
Just climbing, seeing how it feels with the mindset of checking out the moves works the best for unexpected hard onsights! Pure endurance with a couple of powerful moves up the slopy tufa; after a whole month of only 40m routes I almost never got pumped the long way up:)
|
|||||||||
3633
points
| 8a+ | ★★★ Ñapas dead (L1) (ñapas dead) | 35m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 20th Jan 2021 | |||
Neverending and super exhausting battle on little crimps spiced with reachy moves at the end! Thx for another patient belay to my blond chica;)
|
|||||||||
3633
points
| 8b | ★★★ Pati Pa Mi | 35m, 14 | Siurana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 28th Nov 2019 | |||
Never expected that! Completely my style:) just one crimpy boulder in the middle, the rest wasn't that hard but super beautiful:)
|
|||||||||
3633
points
| 8a+ | ★★★ Eterna juventud (la eterna juventud) | 35m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 19th Jan 2021 | |||
Yesss back in no expectation mode! Just barely made it thriugh the steep boulderstart on tiny pinches and managed to stay calm on the long endurance part afterwards:)
|
|||||||||
3631
points
| 8a+ | ★★★ Nueve Z (Nueve Zeta) | 30m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 11th Jan 2021 | |||
The luck to just find the right sequence in the last second was on my side;) perfect wallclimbing on little tufas and crimps with good footholds all the way up!
|
|||||||||
3629
points
| 8a+ | ★★★ Las Clochas De Targa (Las clochas de la targa) | 30m, 16 | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 6th Jan 2021 | |||
The very best in this sector! All about trying to save as much power as possible for the final boulder consisting of little pinches and crimps:) happy about that one no matter which grade it would be in reality;)
|
|||||||||
3606
points
| 8b+ | ★★★ Crimptonite | 33m | Oliana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 6th Apr 2021 | |||
#2go Only 5 star climbs in Oliana but this one still should get more attention, 30m resistency tricky moves on a slightly overhanging crimp carpet! Got heartbreakingly close on the onsight by missing one crimp super close to the top... even more frustrating when you've got told afterwards that you were cruising through all the hard part! But that's part of the game and for sure something to learn from:) including some bees attacking me into my hair...
|
|||||||||
3605
points
| 8a+ | ★★★ Sempre sulla mia Strada | 20m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 18th Oct 2020 | |||
Made myself a birthday present! Thanks to everybody for making this day so memorable yet still normal:) impressive flash by Kev afterwards!
|
|||||||||
3599
points
| 8b+ | ★★ Gorilas en la niebla | 50m | Oliana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 15th Mar 2021 | |||
#2go Enjoyed fighting against the pump on this gem to the very top of the cliff soo much! Perfect way to end up the first day of many more to come:) lots of tricky sections in high-quality rock! Thx Stef for the patient belay:)
|
|||||||||
3590
points
| 8a+ | ★★★ Encore | 40m | Céüse | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 31st Aug 2020 | |||
Like half an hour after onsighting the right one, I managed to the fight to the top of this much pumpier endurance beauty as well:) what a day! Biggest thx to Luisa for the hanging draws and putting on some chalk again after the rain;)
|
|||||||||
3588
points
| 8a+ | ★★★ Beaute de chine (Beauté de chine) | Tournoux | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 22nd Aug 2020 | ||||
Beautiful line up this exposed edge! The holds were much better than they looked from the ground luckily and thx to Basti and Luisa for the hanging draws and everybody for cheering:))
|
|||||||||
3586
points
| 10+ | ★★★ Damenwahl (Damenwahl XT) | Kochel | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Mar 2021 | ||||
Mostly I'm happy about finding this perfect no-expectation send mode again with no skin, fun people around and even one guy next to me also in the send go but still chatting together which blew all the pressure away:) 2nd try from the ground after VQ! Even better, harder & longer;) luckily my body already adapted to the crux moves a bit as there was way less power left at the end of day!
|
|||||||||
3585
points
| 10+ | ★★★ Nor-A-Line | Kochel | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 5th Mar 2021 | ||||
Crimpy beast! The proof that I'm not good and don't really enjoy holding onto micro-crimps! 14 tries over 4 days till I discovered all those important details but in the end, the cold conditions were the key to get enough friction:)
|
|||||||||
3584
points
| 8b+ | ★★★ Mal de isla (L1) (Mal de isla) | 45m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 21st Jan 2021 | |||
#2go Long 45m journey through several cruxes with steep tufa battling, slopy wallclimbing and a risky move at the very top! Perfect support by Simon and for encouraging me to give one try after checking out the moves which directly turned out to be the send right before it got dark:)
|
|||||||||
3583
points
| 10+ | ★★★ Tis Tis | Kochel | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 25th Feb 2021 | ||||
The ultimate powerendurance testpiece, soo good even if it's quite chipped! 3rd try with knowing the start and the end already from other climbs; during the 2nd go, I lost my focus at the very last move at 30m and directly started again from the ground by clipping the chains this time! Seems like the Spanish enduro is paying off here;)
|
|||||||||
3582
points
| 8b+ | ★★★ Obsesión por la extensión (Obsesiòn por la extenciòn) | 35m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 16th Jan 2021 | |||
#2go Checked out the 10 more resistency moves directly after sending 'El representante'; first try from the ground! Thx everyone for encouraging to try it and for cheering through this pumpy beast! Perfect for leveling up after the straight one but stay to the bolts in the left without traversing to the juggy tufas!
|
|||||||||
3552
points
| 10+ | ★★★ Des Wahnsinns Fette Beute | Kochel | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 14th Nov 2020 | ||||
It's all about finding those little game-changing details to stick this one hard fingery move! Was soo surprised to have stuck it in my 2nd sesh (7th try) that I almost forgot my beta while skipping 2 draws;) memorable Afrika vibes with Malik, Clément, Isi and Enrico:) psyched for the one to the left now!
|
|||||||||
3540
points
| 8b+ | ★★★ Slow food | 30m | Céüse | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 28th Aug 2020 | |||
3rd try after "Slowfood right" and luckily never fell after the startboulder; especially today the final slab was completely wet which gave the whole thing some extra spice! Biggest thanks to Malik, Felix and Moritz for the 3 belays and the support during this rainy day:) macht scho bock da rumzumballern;)
|
|||||||||
3537
points
| 10+ | ★★★ UPS | Kochel | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 27th Sep 2020 | ||||
#2go The Céüse-crew is back together here in Kochel:) plan B destination after Tirol is a risk area now... super pumpy and tricky combi which really brought me out of my confortzone by a massive battle up the final edge! 2nd go after sending the others this early summer
|
|||||||||
3532
points
| 8a | ★★ Happy hour | 35m | Oliana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th Apr 2021 | |||
Even if it ends in the middle of the wall, the moves were actually super nice! Close fight just before it got dark during the 5th day on; golden & happy hour:)
|
|||||||||
3531
points
| 8a+ | ★★★ Avanzi di Galera | 28m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 15th Feb 2020 | |||
Speechless! Big fight, perfect mindset and my first 8a+ onsight:) thx to Roland for all the belays and the perfect support!
|
|||||||||
3526
points
| 8a | ★★★ Mishi | 30m | Oliana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 15th Mar 2021 | |||
The megaa classic in the 8a-range! Powerful first half followed by a resistancy finish in grey rock which brought up a proper cold pump;)
|
|||||||||
3518
points
| 8a+ | ★★★ Himmelsreiter | 54m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 3rd Jan 2020 | |||
Einfach nur wahnsinnig schee mit am traumfels:))
|
|||||||||
3515
points
| 10+ | ★★★ Wo die Wildesten Kerle Wohnen | Kochel | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 15th Jul 2020 | ||||
Actually didn't felt harder than "Die Wilden Kerle" because it's more powerendurance with a good rest before instead of this low percentage move;) the bouldery start was still the main problem for me and luckily, I never fell in the upper part! Coming from Franken but anyway can't hold the mono properly;)
|
|||||||||
3515
points
| 8a+ 8a | ★★★ Vejiga Vibratoria | 25m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Feb 2021 | |||
Yeaah, I found a static safe version for both jumps;) would deserve 5 stars if there wouldn't be tons of sika in this steep roof! Soo tired now of this epic fight!
|
|||||||||
3515
points
| 8a 8a+ | ★★★ El capataz incapaz | 40m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 6th Feb 2021 | |||
Expected it to be way harder after the breakout in the middle but for me the crux was actually right at the start on those slopy tufas! Lovin' 'él balcon':)
|
|||||||||
3514
points
| 8a | ★★★ Altos, guapos y fuertes (L1) (Altos, Guapos y Fuertes) | 40m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 3rd Feb 2021 | |||
Flying up another popular line in the canyon! Suddendly the Czech guy was hanging next to me for taking some pics again;) mercii!
|
|||||||||
3513
points
| 8a | ★★★ Holocausto mosquito (L1) (holocausto mosquito) | 35m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 31st Jan 2021 | |||
Soo much better than the neighbouring ones! Powerendurancy section in the middle where I barely managed to read it correct and a super tricky slab finish; not that polished yet:)
|
|||||||||
3512
points
| 8a | ★★★ Los veteranos (L1) (los veteranos) | 25m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 29th Jan 2021 | |||
Nice change in style with 20m steep bouldery moves on pinches! Really enjoyed this one and reading every section perfectly made it even more flowy:)
|
|||||||||
3511
points
| 8a | ★★★ El bufa | 38m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 24th Jan 2021 | |||
Finallyyy dry! The very first move is the hardest single move but staying concentrated till the very end is even more important! The nohand full body lock behind the big tufa is the most fun part:))
|
|||||||||
3510
points
| 10+ | ★★★ Baby Love | Kochel | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 28th Jun 2020 | ||||
3rd go after 'Wichtjahr' which felt pretty relaxed this time but then you still have to add about 10 powerful moves without any rest; the most unsolid ascent since a long time 'cause I got soo damn pumped! Really loved these crossover moves with high footholds:)
|
|||||||||
3506
points
| 8a+ | ★★★ Sueurs Froides | 28m | Céüse | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 16th Aug 2020 | |||
Did this just happened!? Half onsight as Malik and Marius just told me a little bit of their crux beta at the campground but in the end, I had to find my own way with a heel hook crossover to a little crimp by skipping the jump:)
|
|||||||||
3505
points
| 8a | ★★★ La Pantonera | 20m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 5th Jan 2021 | |||
Almost too good to be natural! Couldn't be any closer at every single move even if Simon still said it looked super relaxed somehow;)
|
|||||||||
3505
points
| 8a | ★★★ Entre Dos Caminos | 30m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 4th Jan 2021 | |||
Battling through the tufa part and cruising up the juggy crimps to the chains:) most-do here!
|
|||||||||
3505
points
| 8a | ★★★ El Ramallar | 40m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 4th Jan 2021 | |||
The ultraclassic tufa kingline with crimpy finish without escaping to the right! The pinches before had been the biggest challenge for me;)
|
|||||||||
3503
points
| 8a | ★★★ Chikori | 30m | Siurana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 31st Dec 2020 | |||
45min-battle against numb fingertips on this bouldery 35m hidden kingline! Gracias Michi for your patience and cheering me through all these close to fall sections:)
|
|||||||||
3503
points
| 8b+ | ★★★ Basic Bongo | 33m, 13 | Rottachberg | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 29th Apr 2020 | |||
11 tries; longest project since last summer... felt so much harder than "King" because of adding 14 resistence moves after the same crimpy boulder! Big frustration after falling lower every time but then always linking it to the top like it's not hard at all:/ but this let me believe if my mind stays calm it's possible and with a little bit of pressure before the big rainstorm I finally clipped the chains:) psyched for the new projects!
|
|||||||||
3499
points
| 10- | ★★★ SMS | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 26th Jun 2020 | ||||
Maybe the sweaty 27 degrees lowered the expectations but I still almost slipped out of every pocket in the pretty long crux sequence and luckily found the right beta for the final crack! Super happy to have onsighted this endurance beauty:)
|
|||||||||
3498
points
| 10- | ★★★ Desperado | 22m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 22nd Jun 2020 | |||
Soo good, deserves the 3 stars and the popularity! Getting harder the higher you get with the crux directly before the chains; super happy that I could keep my mind calm especially during my shocking footslip on the last move and hanging with only one arm in the topjug definitely brought up even more adrenalin and happiness for sure:)
|
|||||||||
3496
points
| 10+ | ★★★ Nola | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 13th May 2020 | ||||
#2go Perfect flow through the crux but was soo scared to slip off the polished part in "Simon"! Got harder after one part of the sidecrimp broke off; pretty unexpected:) climbs so nice especially if you aren't that tall;) 1st go from the ground
|
|||||||||
3495
points
| 8a+ | ★★★ Baumkrone | Scheabichl | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 10th Jul 2020 | ||||
Benefieted from Rolands awesome beta to reach to top within my first try including a few big bodywaves downwards which I luckily saved! Somehow my first 8a flashh because normally, I prefer to go for the onsight directly:)
|
|||||||||
3492
points
| 10- | ★★★ XXL | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 1st Jun 2020 | |||
Amazingly good moves through this overhanging corner with two rather obvious bouldery sections! Low expectations made me flew up this beauty with perfect flow; soo happy:)
|
|||||||||
3492
points
| 10- | ★★★ Letzte Ausfahrt Bruck | 17m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 1st Jun 2020 | |||
Perfect mindset after onsighting the neighbouring lines:) got the boulder through the slopy crack in the end just perfect! Soo good but a few soaked holds
|
|||||||||
3491
points
| 10- | ★★★ Blow Job | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 29th May 2020 | ||||
Never expected that because I was locking at the holds and simply couldn't even imagine how I'll get off the ground... did it with the mono and almost fell afterwards! Nice bouldery line:)
|
|||||||||
3489
points
| 8b+ | ★★★ Renegiode (Renegoide) | Siurana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th Mar 2020 | ||||
Lots crimp power, trust in your high feet and resistence needed! Enjoyed this one so much especially the big runouts in the upper part as well as resting with the bees;) quick beta change made it possible to send it within 5 tries!
|
|||||||||
3489
points
| 10+ 8b+ | ★★★ King of the Bongo | 31m, 13 | Rottachberg | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 20th Apr 2020 | |||
The most beautiful and obvious line here! 3rd go, stupid beta in my 2nd go let me fall after the crux... so much power endurance needed to get fresh into the crimpy boulder where I did a few nice crossover moves but anyway it felt more like 8b+/c... psyched for 'Basic Bongo' which feels way harder:)
|
|||||||||
3486
points
| 8b+ | ★★★ Dogma | 42m | Siurana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 5th Mar 2020 | |||
#2go Sooo damn windy today, literally got shaked around on the resting positions! Stunning line filled with a little jump and a handjaming crack to the top:) happy about only 2 tries
|
|||||||||
3486
points
| 8a | ★★★ Helpless | Wilder Kaiser | ★★★ Classic | Mon 2nd Nov 2020 | ||||
Pretty good and not that polished like the neighbouring ones yet:)
|
|||||||||
3485
points
| 8b+ | ★★★ Via Del Quim | 24m, 11 | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 28th Feb 2020 | |||
Feels like a dream comes true to have send such a stunning line at the first day of our trip! My personal crux has been the big moves just before traversing left where I luckily found a little toehook and afterwards it rather was a mindgame to stay calm through this long pumpy runout through this amazing grey wall! 6 tries in total but 2nd go this trip:)
|
|||||||||
3480
points
| 8a | ★★★ Gameboy Plus | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Classic | Thu 15th Oct 2020 | ||||
Relieved that my hook didn't popped too early as I was suuper extended;)
|
|||||||||
3480
points
| 8a | ★★ La cucina dell'inferno | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 15th Oct 2020 | ||||
Even if it's lower end of the grade, I'm super proud to have got the sequence of this bouldery roof perfect:)
|
|||||||||
3480
points
| 8a | ★★★ Il riposo del guerriero | 30m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 14th Oct 2020 | |||
Big moves on perfect crimps in the middle but don't escape to the jug on the left side;) managed to send this gem just right before the sun hit the wall:)
|
|||||||||
3472
points
| 10- | ★★ Direkte Falkenwand | Oberammergau | ★★ Very Good | Thu 26th Mar 2020 | ||||
Erkundungstour durch alle möglichen rostigen haken;) harte verschneidung v.a. wenn ma nix spürt bei den eisigen 0grad...
|
|||||||||
3468
points
| 8a | ★★★ L'atome de savoie | Céüse | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 6th Sep 2020 | ||||
Isi's support made it possible to battle myself through to the chains of this resistence beast! Loved the tufa sequence at the start:) no chalk from the middle on!
|
|||||||||
3466
points
| 8a | ★★★ Bouse De Douze | 20m | Céüse | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 30th Aug 2020 | |||
Luckilyy all the important holds were dry and the big rain didn't washed all the chalk away in this diamond:) pretty happy about my reading skills in this one;)
|
|||||||||
3463
points
| 8b | ★★★ El espíritu de los tiempos (L1+L2) (El espíritu de los tiempos) | 45m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd Feb 2021 | |||
#2go Only reachy moves on good tufas in steep terrain! I really wonder how easy this one must be if you're taller than me;) anyway really enjoyed to just power through both cruxes with big body waves!
|
|||||||||
3460
points
| 8b | ★★★ La bella protegida | 38m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Jan 2021 | |||
#2go Wordclass 5 star line! Steep dancing around on tufas followed by a vertical slab crux right before the chains with long moves on underclings!
|
|||||||||
3460
points
| 10- | ★★★ Fingerfood | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 9th Nov 2020 | ||||
Once again perfect beta & support by Kevin and Tom E.! Low expectations were the key to stay calm till the end!
|
|||||||||
3458
points
| 8b | ★★★ El representante | 30m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 16th Jan 2021 | |||
#2go Powerendurane mostly on underclings with a far deadpoint to the top! Thx to the Czech guy for capturing the send; pics are on my Insta:)
|
|||||||||
3458
points
| 8b+ | ★★★ El Món de Sofía | Siurana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 30th Nov 2019 | ||||
Best single move ever! Figuring out all these little details helped me so much to send this gem; prime condis in the morning sun:)) 6th go
|
|||||||||
3456
points
| 8b+ | ★★★ Kalea Borroka (Kale borroka) | 40m, 13 | Siurana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 25th Nov 2019 | |||
THE KINGLINE! Perfect flow made it feel almost easy;) first go after figuring out a beta for the far shoulder move right before the actual crux, in total 4 goes, so happy and surprised to have clipped the chains of this beauty:))
|
|||||||||
3452
points
| 8b | ★★★ El Figot | 33m | Siurana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 27th Dec 2020 | |||
#2go Once the beta was found for all these many technical crimpy sequences, I could fully enjoy dancing up this 35m line the next try! Pinch power and luck was needed for the two final cruxes;)
|
|||||||||
3449
points
| 10+ | ★★★ Cliffhanger | Kochel | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 10th Dec 2019 | ||||
8b/+ in the guidebook but doing the "Ziag o. Fliag Direktausstieg" 8a+ with "Zu schlapp für diese Welt" 7c+ instead of the original 7b+ part especially with the big rest in between doesn't add that much! Anyway nice kombi:) perfect grip with icy fingers...kochel season is on fire again;) 2 goes after doing the others
|
|||||||||
3435
points
| 8b | ★★★ WWG | Kochel | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 30th Oct 2020 | ||||
#2go Surprised myself with such a quick ascent of this beautiful overhanging edge! Always avoided to try this shorty as the undercling move looked so far and unconfortable if you're small... one of the only dry routes today and after bouldering up once I really asked myself why I haven't tried this resistence gem earlier;) my 50th 'glatter zehner'
|
|||||||||
3433
points
| 8b | ★★★ Heinzelmännchen | 20m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 25th Oct 2020 | |||
The most unexpected send since quite a while of this rather antistyle (what motivated me even more) kingline finishing in the baththub again:) felt impossible the first try by not even doing the single moves, directly managed a one hang in the late afternoon the following day, felt tired but Kevin encouraged me to give it another try which somehow was the send already! All about the mind once again:) thx Pauli as well for giving me some light with your headlamp from the ground to find the chains
|
|||||||||
3431
points
| 8b | ★★★ Troppo Schwer (Troppo Schwar) | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 19th Oct 2020 | ||||
Yess, last minute double-send with Kev:)) lots of tension needed! Great intersting bouldery sequence
|
|||||||||
3431
points
| 8b | ★★★ Fuego | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 17th Oct 2020 | ||||
#2go The soaked sika jugs thriugh the little roof had been the crux today;) pumpy to the top of this classic!
|