★★ Dunes Direct 13

A good four pitches with the first, second and fourth having quite absorbing sections.

Start as for Dunes.

1. 30m (13) As for Dunes up the corner and slab but then skip the pitch 2 chimney over on the right by going straight up the slab, pulling L onto ledge then up the flake and wall staying R towards the arete (Sep 88, Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman).

2. 25m (11) Drift left up excellent steep clean exposed juggy climbing. Belay on spacious sloping ledge a bit before the Oasis.

3. 22m (10) Head up L to the L end of the Oasis ledge and surmount an undercut slot (not kid friendly! Maybe try further L with kids). Continue to an overhung but very juggy bulge, and belay 5m above this on a good ledge.

4. 23m (12) Ledge hop up to a very nice vertical juggy wall, then up a slippery polished corner crack (again, not kid friendly). At the top of the corner move about 5m R to find an easy way to do the last few moves to the top.

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

• Stick to the paths.

• Don't disturb the wildlife.

• Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

• Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).