Ascensiones en Northern Tablelands como Working por Brendan Heywood

Footer blew on scrittle at the start, then got up the flake and traversed to the roof crack and rested. Half did the move through the lip. Pumped silly

Top rope burn, shoulder felt great after I tweaked it a couple weeks ago here. Got to the crux clean feeling fairly solid, had a tussle with the rope stuck in the crack where I needed to be. Worked it all and did get the crux moves, but it feels like the crux isn't actually the crux and it's the thinner hands on the headwall which are doable when fresh but brutally sustained after the lip which is the extended crux. The top boulder problem I got first go last time and made a mess of it this time cause I was super cooked.

Two goes on top rope and made a lot of progress. This feels very doable now compared to last time. The first roof is not too bad after all, pinch abd layback instead of jam. Second roof is perfect hands for me, the lip is just a constant grunt fest and is more of a stamina thing than pure technical difficulty. Head wall is just more constant fight and thins out and I think you’d want to just punch through it quickly up to the rest before the third little roof. Final section was surprisingly easy and flows nicely. Strained my shoulder / bicep somewhere on the first go and should have taken it easy and cooked it a bit on the second go

Didn't pull on, just cleaning and belaying. Found a perfect photo ledge level with the main roof with the water fall in the background

A bunch of goes, tickling the pinch and can't figure out if I want to pinch it or gaston. Lots of finger taping. Very shouldery

Got another couple moves into the crux than last time, got high foot on the little chip but couldn't balance on it to straighten up. Feels like its only 2 moves away but I found it nails. Did the slopey foot traverse out of the crux.

A real tantalizing test piece that draws you in and makes you want to do it. Both of us feeling tired and the more we pulled on the more stoke was generated. Around 15 tries each

A proper session, had a few goes going feet first and got almost sitting on the slopey exit with a toe cam. I am in love with this weird problem. Can't believe its been 7 years

Top rope scrub, all the holds are delicate but its all there and relatively obvious sequence

This thing is cool and hard. Also would have some variant finishes out left which look cooler and harder

Got the sit start, keen to tick this fresh and with a pad

Reacquainting with all the beta. Felt nails again pulling on, crimps are sharp and none of the jams are really great. Did more or less most of the moves in three sections: off the ground to thin moves to get into the layerback, trick is to hop and swap feet and then chill out a little. For the bulge the sequence which worked well for me was avoid the Salmon tickle that Ben was doing, right hand on the okish slightly downward jam, then left hand ring finger hook into the little meat grinder and pull right through so right falls into the side pull, then feels pretty good out left to crimp the crystal then, right high step and slap the right hand up a few times and profit. Ended up right my right hand under the top rope anchor for an unfun knuckle grate

Another 5-10 goes, lots of micro beta improvements and can just tickle the salmon with left hand into the high jam but still not quite into the good spot.

Glad Michael made me get back on this, super stoked to get the 3rd bolt on the first go. Worked the top a bit and got the second crux, didn't do the top slab.

It was dark and I thought I was already done but the psyche was high and the single shared headlight kept us going. I mostly did the very torquey crux moves through the roof a few times and fell off chopping the hand jam in on the right. Somewhat contrived but a really awesome cave roof problem.

Had a great session working this and got the start really dialed and was consistently doing all the traverse. Have also done the Benji finish but was just too juiced to link it all together. Lost a bit of skin. Felt just smashed afterwards.

This is a sick little find, a hard gritty traverse / compression with sting in the tail

Had a bunch of attempts trying different new techniques. Tried a backstepped foot jam while laybacking which is hard but feels like I can cycle each bit up at least. Lets be honest thing isn't anywhere near a V4

Had a few throws, feels hard as usual

Siege of different tactics, this time trending more into invert offwidth and away from the brute force layback

Had a go at the start but didn't get into it properly. The B's had worked most of it but were struggling with the finish section, which I was happy to jump on and flash with my weird caving tactics.

Had one tired burn coming out of the crack, have some weird ideas about cutting sick and doing an inverted foot lock and topping out in reverse

Another misty drizzly day, early start with 5 pads and a rope not sure what we'd do and FC was in good condition. A wicked super session, after only one or two attempts and I was back to my furthest point again - and for all the other attempts I don't think I ever didn't get back to this point, the first crux is now dialed. After Ben showed the way I got on just after the first crux and linked all the remaining moves to the nose-twiddle finish on my first go, and after that I thought I had it in the bag as I could now do every move. Tried linking it from the start, and then again and again, with longer breaks and more prep between them slowly mangling my fists and ankles and draining the energy reserves. After one really long rest refuel and complete re-tape I had one last burn and gave it everything, and got further than ever, only 3 moves from the finish, but was totally spanked. Got some wild toe and shin cramps afterward. Heaps of hand, wrist and ankle bruises, right wrist is quite swollen now. Masochism as its finest

Had a few goes and with Benji's beta I can statically press through the crux but come up literally millimetres short of the jug finish! Moving my right hand in further puts me off balance. I'm probably going to need to stem my right foot out. It's a fairly big fall

Solo mission with 3 pads and a portable fan. It started sprinkling as I packed the car and I drove through a couple showers. The rock was still good and had a great sess with more than a dozen burns and another foot of progress. Past the crux (first?) and into decent fist jam rest and inverted. Another 2 foot of slightly flaring hands and fists remains. The sky opened as I packed up and I walked out in drenching rain.

Another scout just to see how spoogy it was, totally mint so shoe'd up and ended up progressing to a new hight point all the way to the fist jam and then tenuously matched. Was right on the index knuckle, if I'd sunk it just an inch deeper I think it would have been done!?

Water level was fairly high into the cave so did a bit of rock building first. Afters the boys had a few goes thought I should too. Probably 5 or so goes, starting from the higher fist jam, had one fairly decent go (the first?) where I got pretty high and kinda arm barring. After some discussion we have consensus that this is not a V3 and probably more like V5

But then I found some energy for working the sit start to this crack. I kinda thought I'd done this back in the day, it's a super burly layback and if you can get through the first 50cm then it eases up. First go I did maybe 4 moves and was totally thinking I'd get it again the second time, and then it just shut us both down. Had a bunch of goes. Sit start might be more like V4-V6 as a layback, maybe less using some inverted offwidth foot jams and chicken wings if you can figure it out

We tried super-gluing our finger tips which seemed to work pretty well consider how many attempts we had and didn't rage quit after the 3rd attempt. Its been yonks since I've been on this, I re-figured out how to hold the left crimp, the right is still fairly painful.

Was totally wrecked after a big day, we almost didn't stop but Ben was keen. After he had a couple goes I mentally geared up and had a solid cracker of an attempt, essentially did the crux, got my foot placement perfect, and was rocking over into the top out and just choked. Has another 4-5 goes but none quite as good and was then just smashed. Froth!

Was getting pretty juiced by this stage on dusk

I was pretty cooked and couldn't hold the thing crimp so I worked dynoing to the jug and was about an inch away. I might be able to stick the less good lip just under the jug

Brutal fun

Almost got the flash, one flash pump after another probably isn't the best way to warm up

Off balance with marginal knee scums to hold you in. A bit of ape helps

Had a few goes, was really great to see this get sent as I've never understood how it went. Ape and good footwork needed

Hard, balancy, sharp, daunting

You don't 'work' this problem. It works you. It's so easy, but also impossible.

Had a few goes and not really feeling the jams. The cups naturally worked again for me, and on the last go got a pretty deep arm bar past the bottle neck and only a couple inches off the glory hold. Kinda kicking myself I didn't give it more

Aarrh this thing is so good! Got onto the top arete a few times and it just teases you and demands millimetre precision and balance. After about the 3 'one more time' Benji sent it in perfect style and history has been made. We built up a much better log base this time, with 5 pads

A pulled on a few times on the higher holds, and almost caught the top dynamically. I can barely even hold the lower start holds. But enough to make me want to come back and work this again.

I've gotten so weak after 12 weeks without touching rock. I could barely pull on and progress.

Using the pinch and then a right heel rook almost works for me. The right slap is very marginal.

Another great session with great group psyche levels. 7 pads this time . Initially felt very pumpy again. At least a dozen tries. Some progress, got a rattling fist jam twice. Got the first section pretty dialed and smooth to conserve juice. Twisted left meat hook seems to help with body position transitioning into the jam. I think the most natural "finish" will be tapping the big roof chock stone.