Nodos en Twin Ribs

The Twin Ribs are the hard (that is, steep) sport climbing in the Ottawa area, with Down Under holding only sport routes, while Copa Cabana also has a few hard trad routes as well. The Eastern Block provides a leavening of more moderate routes on mostly less-than-vertical rock.

The "Left Twin" of the twin ribs.

Note: climbs on this cliff are described right-to-left.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Start off the ground not the boulder for full value. (Make sure your belayer is paying attention between 2nd and 3rd bolt)

Stick clip the second bolt and consider extending the draws on bolt 3.

Bolts and gear. Face climb to an obvious roof crack.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

7 bolts. Go direct through the roof. Roof has a glue in bolt.

Right of Big Joe, Climb the first 3 bolts of the project line to finish on the anchors of Diddler in the Roof. Starting hold is high (7 feet?), Hard boulder problem to start. Crimpy

Right of Big Joe! High starting hold (7 feet?) PROJECT

Short and Powerful

Shares first bolt of Big Joe and then goes left.

Really nice boulder problem crux! (you can link up the start of Original route and the end of this one for a nice 5.10b)

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Classic line but stick clip to second bolt to avoid a bad fall!

Climb on vertical wall to spicy finish

Climb through roof Alcatraz and then the extension to the next set of anchors. Some very small crimps after the first set of anchors.

Short cruxy, powerful Short beta video if needed

Climb salut Steve and then do a v10/11 boulder problem to the next set of anchors.

Can you say "Dyno?"

Stellar roof crack!

Very easy climbing to a high first bolt (optional gear) leads to super cool campus moves across a steep wall. Ultra classic for the grade.

Pitch 1: Start underneath the right side of the large roof. Climb up a corner to a horizontal crack that takes you right; underneath an overhang, to a slab and anchors beside a pine tree.

Pitch 2: Climb behind the tree and follow the obvious leftward traverse, past a piton to the bottom of a large overhanging chimney and crack system. Belay.

Pitch 3: Climb the chimney and crack to pine trees at the top. Walk down to the left.

Bolts & gear. Start at a small overhang and climb the overhang then traverse left to some discontinuous cracks to a left facing corner, climb the corner to the top.

Start Standing and climb up using the sweet feature finish on jugs to down climb to the left

Start Standing and climb up using the sweet feature finish on jugs to down climb to the left

A topo is currently (May 2011) available for this area at: http://www.drtopo.com/guidebooks/pdf_guides/quebec/Gatineau/luskville.pdf

Climb most Left route on the wall

Finish on price of business. Easier finish

hard crux to finish on easier climbing

for Beta of the crux video here

start on malzheit and after the crux move little right to finish on anti gravity. more sustained

start on anti gravity and move little left after 4th bolt to finish on easier climbing

Climb the beautiful lay back feature and finish on tricky top

Start on Slovak just left of the beast but traverse Right (aftet 2nd bolt)to finish on Anchors of true grit

Do Slovak & Grit but finish at the top of the Beast

Climb the start of Anti-Gravity to traverse right to finish on The Beast

This is most likely impossible. In the overhang there is no real hold for a stretch of 10 feet. Good luck! Maybe first V16 on rope in Canada

Start on Exodus and link into Anti-Gravity. Most sustained route of downunder.

The longest route at Down Under, The Beast is also the most difficult free climb in the area and, at the time it was first climbed (1998), one of the hardest in the province. Its line is dictated by the elegant prow overlooking the steepest section of the crag. this climbing is harder if short

After the 4th bolt of The Beast, step right to the anchors of True Grit.

for beta video see here

climb true grit and finish on anchor of the beast

Climb obvious Crack to finish on tricky top

Doesn't use the big edge to the left.

Just left of Sausages be ready for crux at 3 bolt

Start on Big jugs of el nino. Move up and right to finish Sausages

Climb Sausages and keep climbing straight after the third draw on crimps.

Probably the most climbed-on route at Down Under, often used as a warm-up. Below and to the right of the small cave at the top is an interesting no-hands rest.

A rather unsustained climb. You might want a nut in the bottom crack.

Project squeezed in between Catwoman and Pizza Slut. Hard Dyno to finish on easier climbing.

just left of Pieta de roma, short and powerful. Back in those days this was done without using holds from Pieta de roma. Perfectly alright if you want to use them!

Stick clip? 3 bolts for this one. Gym like climb!

start on pieta de roma and finish on sausages

Start on Pieta de Roma and finish on your wife. Little zig zag but different, move right after 1st bolt.

start beside pieta de roma avoiding big holds of pieta de roma. using pinchs and crimps move just right and after 2nd botl line is distinct. v4 into 11 climbing into v5 ish.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Climb a few harder moves on the face to continue on Your wife. try to avoid big flake out left to start

First route on the right side of the wall

Start low in the cave with a right hand pinch and left on undercling beside like in the video. Starting higher will make it easier. Video

V10 Dyno ?? Boulder underneath is out!

V13? Sloper project short and powerful!! Campus? Heal hook?

A smooth rounded face to the right of the Twin Ribs, offering moderate to difficult slab climbing.

Bolt line left of "Ethics Police".

High first bolt, but could maybe take gear at start?

Beware the top half of this climb gets hard fast and it can be tempting to travel off route to the sides. Beware, if you travel too far this could result in a nasty swing if on lead.

Climb up over a section of fractured rock to smoother slab then a small oval cave. Continue up past the cave to the top anchors. (Rap rings.)

Very high first bolt -- gear nice at the start, but not needed thereafter. Can be climbed sport if you don't mind the high-ball start.

Bolt route squeezed in between "Ethics Police" and "Mr Clean". Occasionally borrows holds from each.

Goes at about 5.9 if you wander around a bit. Direct finish, up the smooth slab, probably harder, maybe 5.11ish?

In the lower part of the cliff there is a nearly vertical about 9" wide pink dike that protrudes out from the rest of the cliff by an inch or two, and a bolt line running up it.

Mr Clean climbs the dike, and face above, to anchors.

Runs parallel to Mr Clean up the blank slab to its right.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

This wanders up the water streak on the right side of the cliff.

Short route at the far right end of the cliff. Nice warm-up for the fairly stiff 5.8 routes on the rest of the cliff.