Nodos en Flatrock

Probably the most popular climbing area around St. John's. As this crag is seaside be careful during stormy times of year and when tides are at their highest. It's not uncommon for king waves to crash up over the rocks possibly wetting your feet (and gear)

While a scramble from the trail above exists which can be used to set topropes on routes near Yellow Fever, there is some loose rock present which could be dislodged onto groups below. It is recommended to climb Candy (5.7 sport) to set toprope anchors on routes from MC Hammer to Hysteria, and to climb Spray Down (5.7+ sport) to reach anchors from Flaccid to Seascape.

Although all routes are classified as Traditional, probably 80% of route have bolts so always bring a few quickdraws (maybe 11 or 12 to do some classic easy sport routes such as "Sledgehammer" and "Spray Down" and have a few to spare). There are some routes that you can get away with just draws and no rack.

This route is normally passed on your way down the path to main face. It's in the southern section on a bit of a rock pile. The climb is just to the right of the corner crack so climb through the bolts. After bolt 5 move right and continue to a double rappel anchor at the top.

Description Starts on 4 bolts of face climbing through small holds and crimps, might feel like 5.10 around 3rd bolt (crux) until you figure out the beta. Top section contains easier climbing following a widening crack from wide hands to offwidth. Two very different styles of climbing but enjoyable throughout. I found a perfect rack to be 2x #3 and a #4, but could definitely safely climb without a #4, or sew the top section up with a #5, #6.

There is lots of loose rock above this climb, I trundled all the large stuff I could, and rock shouldn't be disturbed if the rap anchor is used, but caution is always advised.

Location At the beginning of Main Face in the blasted section. on the left face of a corner, often shaded when other routes are sunny.

Protection 4 bolts, gear 2"-4", rappel anchor

Description Start in thin cracks on blocks before stepping right into the wide crack. A variety of jams and / or face holds in and around the crack can be used to reach the top.

Location The obvious wide crack around 20ft left of MC Hammer.

Protection Standard rack with bigger gear. Probably want a #5 if it's at your limit. Bolt anchor.

Description Technical face climbing with interesting exit moves. Stay out of the corner up top for full value.

Location To the left of the large blocky arete and before the cracks.

Protection 8 bolts and anchor. Stick-clip recommended.

Scramble up a block to start and then up a finger crack to a rappel anchor at the top. Standard rack <1",

Start left of the corner and climb in the corner past the bolt until a ledge on the right. Then follow a hand crack to the top. Two-bolt rappel anchor suitable for top-roping. Standard rack <3"

Description Very short sport route, but has sustained and unique climbing. Stick clip the first bolt, then climb the arete past two more bolts to a ledge. Two bolt rappel anchor on the ledge, or continue up the 5.6 hand crack (gear) on five fingers to another anchor.

Location Between Five Fingers and Iron Hand.

Protection Stick Clip, three bolts, bolt anchor. A few hand-sized cams if continuing to the top of Five Fingers.

Start under the first bolt and go diagonally right into the corner. Climb through the roof while avoiding the ledge to the left. The ledge is good for a rest but it makes your next few moves more difficult. Finish at rappel anchor. Standard rack <2".

Start in the flaring crack until the first roof, traverse right and up onto a small ledge. Move left and through another roof section past a bolt to the top. Two-bolt rappel anchor. Standard rack <3"

Climb starts in the middle of the face at a small left-facing nub. Leads up through a small crack past the first bolt. That crack closes just below the second bolt, follow through it to the two-bolt rappel. Standard rack <3"

Start just to the right of Nubbin under the first bolt and follow the right-facing feature past the second bolt. Go straight up to the third bolt and finish left at the same rappel anchor as Nubbin.

This route follows the left-facing corner. Recently the bottom has fallen away which makes the route from what was 5.8 (in NCG, 2007) to a 5.10d. No rappel Anchor although you can lower off chains from Iron Hand.

Best to use a stick clip for the first bolt as it's above the roof section. Climb through the roof section up to the second bolt and upwards to a small ledge with a two-bolt rappel anchor.

A very popular route. Start in the corner and move left through big holds. Sometimes worth placing a piece of gear between bolts 4/5. Uses same rappel anchor as Ass Master.

Note: A 075 camelot or similar goes very well. Anchor can be made out of one 12M cordalette tied by a double fisherman's knot & four locking carabiners, or similar.

Start to the right of Candy on the right-facing corner. Stay in the corner all the way to the ledge at the top, then move left to the rappel anchors for Ass Master.

Start in the middle of the face with good holds. Move left through the roof section and continue through the bolts up to the top. Good gear placement in between the 4th bolt and rappel anchor if required.

Description Nice climb. The buisness is pretty close to bolts. There are two cruxes separated by a good rest. Not nearly as much pucker factor as a lot of routes nearby...

Location Between "Hakuna Matata" and "Hysteria"

Protection 4 bolts + a few pieces of pro (.4 camalot, yellow ballnut if you want pro before first bolt). Caution while clipping the bolt above the ledgy-ledge. Solid clipping position but quite runout at the clipping moment.

Can be set up on toprope by either leading the route, or by scrambling after having lead "Hysteria".

7? sport bolts plus an anchor.

Description A well-protected mid-route crux makes this an excellent first 5.10 tick for the new leader.

Other than the crux, it's pretty smooth 5.9 sailing, making this route a bit of a "one move wonder."

Location Located to the right of Pucker Up. Or two routes to the left of "Hakuna Matata".

Protection Ring bolts. Ring bolt anchors accessible from ledge on top. Can set up a top rope anchor via leading the route on sport.

Start at the left side of Flaccid Ledge, small crimpy holds until the crux past the second bolt. Possibly use gear here as a fall could be messy. Tops out at rappel anchor.

Start in the middle of the ledge up some small horizontal cracks. Towards the top holds get bigger and better. If required, use gear between the third bolt and the rappel anchors.

Start on the far right of Flaccid ledge. Climb up the arete through the first bolt and up the crack to the right topping out at rappel anchors. Standard rack <2"

Two-bolt anchor set at eye-level on Flaccid Ledge to practice rappelling.

Description Another sport route for the easy section of main face. This one climbs past seven bolts following flakes and good holds to the left of Noggin.

Usually the water streak doesn't interfere much with the climbing, as you can climb to the right of the streak without increasing the difficulty by much.

Protection 7 bolts + anchor (rappel). Cordalette anchor (6 foot arms).

Toprope recommended being set up via leading the route.

Starts to the right of "Wet Chalk", there's a good double crack system that is more competent than it seems. Climb towards the dark patch to the top left and proceed about 5m past all the other climbs to the rappel anchor. Shares a top. Standard rack <4" (mostly 1"-4")

Starts just to the right of Noggin' and follows a dark streak right to the top. Starts easy and gets a little harder towards the top. Double rappel anchor as well as shared top-belay anchor with Noggin'. Standard rack <4". Gear is good at the bottom but the top section is a little run out.

Description Climb the dark streak between Noggin and Spray Down with some interesting moves around flakes and blocks at the bottom before getting a little trickier towards the top.

Starts a few metres right of Arms Race, and to the left of Pog Mahoe. Lots of closely spaced bolts, and good holds. Climb straight up and avoid the right side which is a different route. The easiest sport route to access the ledge and a few different top rope anchors (stay on belay). High first bolt so stick clip if needed.

Description Often derided as one of the worst bolted routes at main face, this route has a few fun moves and is one of the only fully bolted options at the 5.10- grade in the area, now that "The Price is Right" and adjacent routes have fallen down.

Stick clip the high first bolt (or place a #2 or 3 camalot) then climb up some sidepulls (crux) to a big ledge. Step off the left side of the ledge and head up over more ledges to a bolted anchor 8ft back on a grassy ledge.

Protection 4 Bolts, optional hand sized cam OR stick clip, Bolted rappel anchor. Note the runout between some of the bolts on an easy ledgy section of the climb. Caution when clipping - possibly it could be supplemented with gear... Maybe?

For a Toprope anchor, either lead "Pog Mahoe" or lead "Spray Down" and set it up on lead after having set up that anchor. Toprope anchor is longish, can be made with 2 10m slings 'doubled over' extended by 2 two foot slings and six locking carabiners, or likely something more convenient than that.

Description Another climb that has recently gotten harder due to a block falling off the start.

The climb now starts about 8 feet right of the first bolt (Stick Clip) with an easy leftward traverse into a strange, precarious crux sequence to a good hold on the arete up and left of the first bolt. From here some powerful moves get you over the large roof. Once the third bolt is clipped, easy climbing leads to the top.

The unique geometry and traversing on the route can lead to some interesting falls, particularly for the belayer. Careful not to kick your belayer in the head if you blow the moves to the third bolt.

Protection 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (long cordalette for TR). Stick clip mandatory.

Description Climb the face with a few moves on small crimps separated by good rests. The route is well protected and usually climbable even if the dark streak is wet. Classic sport climb. Stick clip recommended, potentially stick clip bolt 2 if the crux is at your limit - falling while clipping could result in a close to ground fall.

Protection 4 bolts & anchor. Can be set up on toprope via leading the route. Anchors can be 2 two-foot slings & 4 locking carabiners, or similar.

Description Face climb past three slightly spaced bolts to a rest ledge, then climb the overhanging face above with some good but small gear. Pull the small roof on the right to a large ledge and top out via the wide easy crack to a three bolt anchor.

Protection three bolts, standard rack with micro cams, bolt anchor

Description A very exciting climb; while all the hard moves are protected this is not bolted like a modern sport route and some falls off easier sections may be dangerous. Start as per Good Country Lovin', but at the third bolt make a long, runout traverse left and continue up to the fourth bolt. Tricky and engaging face climbing leads past two more bolts, then 20 feet of gear protected climbing with a memorable mantle leads to the top.

Protection 6 bolts, 2.5 - 5" cam for the first horizontal, 0.5 - 1.5" cams for the easy top section. Three bolt anchor

Description A harder direct start for Gabe. Hard, thin climbing similar to Screaming Life past three spaced bolts, then join the fourth bolt of Gabe and continue as per that route.

Protection Bolts, couple cams for the top of Gabe

Description Thin, thin climbing.

Spend hours hang-dogging up and down the blank, chalk-free face until you eventually find a viable sequence. Commit the sequence to memory and return once the skin on your fingertips has grown back. The climbing is sustained until the fourth bolt.

Location The face climb with hangers (not ring bolts) to the left of Ledge Dweller. There is a small roof above the second bolt.

Protection 5 Bolts + Anchor ( only one bolt has rappel hardware)

Description Climb thin holds straight up the face and to the right side of a small roof before following the bolt line right to the bigger roof and a finishing crux.

Location Start directly under the small roof to the left of Maggie and Yellow Fever starts.

Protection 6 bolts and rappel anchor. Can be toproped by climbing "Maggie" on mixed trad, and finishing on the "Ledge Dweller" anchors. It is not really possible to set up a toprope on this route from scrambling down from the top. Top anchors can be made from two two-foot slings & 4 locking carabiners, or similar.

A very classic route. 5 sport bolts, trad section, one more bolt, option to use the right bolt of the "Ledge Dweller" anchor as the last piece on the route, and new toprope glue-in bolts installed September 2020.

Top HANGERS are on the top of the ledge for creating an anchor from the top access - note that the hike down is quite the scramble, and it is not possible to rappel nor thread & lower off the higher anchor bolts.

Check the hangers to see if they are spinning. They can be tightened with an adjustable wrench.

Trad gear: Cams 2''-0.75''

Description Probably the most famous/well-known route on the island. Classic! Start in thin cracks on blocks before stepping right into the wide crack. A variety of jams and / or face holds in and around the crack can be used to reach the top.

Location The route to the right of "Maggie", and left of "Seascape" and "Fifth Element". The obvious wide crack around 20ft left of MC Hammer.

Protection Standard rack with bigger gear. Probably want a #5 if it's at your limit. Bolted anchor with rounded edges glue-ins. One bolt. Anchor set up is 2x two foot slings and four locking carabiners, or similar.

Note this route shares a top ledge with Maggie. It is possible to set up a toprope on this route from a scramble down from the top... There are loose rocks on this scramble so it is possible to knock down rocks onto climbers below. It is also a sketchy scramble.

It is possible to set up a toprope on this route after having clipped the higher anchor (the one with two hangers) on the ledge on Maggie while still on belay. NOTE: This really really takes a lot of time, is sketchy, and actually sort of sucks because the ropes get all tangled up.

Neither of these is convenient, setting up a toprope might be best done by leading the route on gear.

Description Start in the same place as Yellow fever and then traverse right onto the arete and follow the bolts up using both sides of the arete until you hit the crux right before the end.

Protection Gear to 1" for the start then 5 bolts. Bolted anchor on top.

Description A direct start to the route Fifth Element. Start under the roof and pull through some big moves to rejoin the original route in climbing the arete.

Protection 8 Bolts & bolt anchor. The anchor requires a long cordalette and 4 locking carabiners, or similar. Rappel to clean. Might be hard to pull the rope afterwards.

Description Start in the same place as Yellow fever and after the start traverse right past a large flake. Go up the face to the right of the flake past a small roof and straight to the top.

There is a large traverse at the start of this so long slings are recommended to avoid rope drag. Also care must be taken when top roping because of the potential swing.

Protection 1 bolt and gear to 2". Rappel anchor on top.

Description Start in the corner under the roof to the right of the Yellow Fever start and climb out around the right side to follow the bolts left and join back up with the main Seascape route.

Protection 4 bolts and gear to 2". Rappel anchor on top.

Description A new start has been added to this route, bringing the climbing down to 5.10d again. Start up the first two bolts of Over Easy and traverse right along a rail to reach the second bolt of the original climb. Very classic sport climb.

Alternatively, stick clip the high first bolt of the original climb and climb thin 5.12 down and right of the bolt. Once the start is negotiated, closely bolted, enjoyable climbing leads to a lower-off anchor below the big boulder (Sledgehammer Direct - 5.12a.

Protection 10 bolts, lower off anchors, Stick Clip mandatory for the direct version, not as necessary for the traverse in. At the top there are quick links. Toprope can be set up via leading the route. Likely 2 one foot slings & four locking carabiners. Please toprope off of your own gear, and the last person to climb the rope clip the quick links & lower off the fixed gear.

Description Challenging face climbing through the line of well-spaced bolts with a high crux.

Protection 11 Bolts, Rappel anchor. Bolts replaced in 2019

Description Low bouldery crux under the roof, then sustained with good rests along the way. How many bolts?

Fine Line was long a mid-5.11 test piece, but ever since the lower portion dislodged during heavy rockfall ca. 2014 or 2015 it has been somewhat neglected... but it remains a fine line! Leo van Ulden and Joe Rossiter added the new first bolt ca. 2013.

Location Starts just left of Operation Recuperation, in the left-facing corner.

Protection Ring bolts, including top anchor Old quick links uninstalled due to wear.

Description An excellent alpine-like climb that brings you over varied terrain with a thrilling, airy finish. Don't forget to take in the view.

The crux is right after the "thank-god bolt" as you transition out of the corner.

The route is most often cleaned by a second. The route requires a 70m rope to rappel (tie rappel knots!), however, this is not recommended. A 4th class scramble (a very reasonable party may elect to rope up) brings you to Yellow Fever ledge, where a rappel is straightforward.

Location Starts at the obvious crack just right of "A Fine Line Between Fear and Flying."

Protection Standard rack up to #3, bolted anchor at 35m.

From memory (change if updated): To set up a toprope after having lead the route, a lot of anchor gear is required. 3x 10M cordalette loops, maybe slings? & 6+ locking carabiners... or maybe even a rope. As the bolts are far from each other, there is a slight scramble to get to one from the other.

A seemingly small area of short cliffs that nevertheless offers a lot of good, fun climbs of all difficulties. This area can stay cool even on very hot days but is best avoided if the sea is very rough.

Description Start behind the boulder on the right half. Lots of great flakes and footwork into a harder finish on less defined edges.

Location Far left of Spanky's Playground, Flatrock. Behind a large boulder before the "cave" overhang. Descent from "Kiddy Crack" / "Child's Play" by rappel safest.

Protection 4 bolts / Anchor

Description Some good jugs for you to start on, climb up the right side of the line. Cross to the left side of the line when you reach the second bolt then climb to topout.

Location Just to the right of the large boulder when facing Bards Wall.

Description A delicate face with an awkward crux.

Protection Rappel bolts

Description Follow a very obvious large feature crack / flake to a small ledge. Great place to rappel into spanky's. Starts on and belay from boulder underneath climb. Easiest climb out of spanky's.

Location About 1/5 of the way from the far left of spanky's to the far right.

Protection No bolts. Trad with bolts at the ledge for an anchor.

Description Starts just to the right of 'Kiddy Crack' under the small roof sector. Navigate a couple tricky but light moves and follow the diagonal feature until you join 'Kiddy Crack'. Location 1/5 of the way from the far left to the far right of 'Spanky's Playground'

Lots of medium size scramble boulders in this area. Protection No bolts. Trad or Top Rope. Bolts at the ledge for anchor.

Description Fun but short climb. Good placements for beginning trad climbers. Follow crack up and top out to finish. Location Just to the left of the approach scramble, and to the right of the large boulders near the usual rappel spot. Protection Single rack for climb and anchor

Description Follow the hand crack straight up to a 2-bolt anchor. Also serves as a good rappel access to the bottom of the climbs.

Location North end near a series of other climbs. To the left of Insomnia corner.

Protection Rappel bolts accessible from the top.

Description Climb the blunt arete feature in the middle of the face, then past a notch and up pebbly rock to the top. Cryptic, boulder-y crux.

Closely bolted, no stick clip needed Location To the right of Breech and Rising Tide Protection 6 bolts + 2 bolt top anchor (rappel bolts). Anchor is not safely accessible from above, best to lead first

Description Start by climbing up a thin seam (RP's) to the edge of the first roof about 20 feet up. Climb the corner above this roof then traverse under the second roof via the slab on the right until it is possible to top out the climb.

The route is trickier than it looks, and doesn't really let up until you're standing on top. Location This climb goes up the big roof at the far right side of Spankies. Protection RP's & Ballnuts + Standard rack to 2". I also used a crash pad on the (assumed) FA. Gear Anchor - same belay as "Retreat".

Description This is a fun route, with unique and interesting climbing. It climbs the giant roof to the climbers right of the Breech Boulder. It is made even more fun by the fact that the beginning of the route is underwater even at low tide.

Wait until the waves draw back enough, then quickly run to the base and perform a few slippery crack and layback moves (crux). Getting to the base may take few attempts. Dry your feet and climb this quickly widening crack into the slot to the ceiling. Take the path of least resistance right and up through the chimney/roof to the top. Remember to back-clean some pieces to protect your second. Location To the right of the Breech Boulder, starts in a right facing corner. Protection Standard rack from 0 mastercam to #6 camalot. Make sure you have a #5 and 6 or two #5's. Long slings to alleviate rope drag. Gear belay.

Parking on Wade's Lane is no longer permitted, upon request of the town of Flatrock, please used the designated parking areas. The suggested approach to Main Face has changed since the release of the 2008 climbing guide, please refer to the map for more details.

Map: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/117632255

Left to right

Description Follow the sharp crack straight up. Connect to a large hand ledge and two horizontal cracks. Continue up the vertical crack until the bolt anchor is just to your left. Very short but very easy to access with quick scramble to the anchor. A great climb for beginners who haven't climbed outside. This is one of the shortest and least intimidating crags I've been at.

Protection 2 bolts at the anchor. Trad rack or Top Rope only. Toprope anchor: Two 2 foot slings or 1 240cm sling.

Follow the easy crack in between the two cracks which have bolted anchors , "Sharp Teeth" and "Unnamed Dihedral". No bolted anchor at the top. Not a convenient toprope.

Description Climb up a a 10 foot face with a hand crack to your right. Reach a series of small ledges leaning rightward into a sloping dihedral. There are some alternate starts that finish at the same anchor that will be added later. To the left a series of jugs heading up and to the right, meeting the ledges. To the right, a series of smaller features goes up and to the left meeting a horizontal ledge and crack. Finish along the ledges, or stay right and lean off the arete on small careful footing.

Protection 2 bolts at the anchor. Trad or Top Rope only. Toprope anchor: Two 2 foot slings or 1 240cm sling.

Description Climb the balancy, shallow crack next to the corner

Protection Top rope only. The anchors are a long way back from the edge so long cord or slings are needed. Suggested sample anchor is two 10M slings, a 240cm sling, and a 120cm sling.

Description Overhanging face climbing past flaring horizontal cracks. Probably not a safe trad lead, better to rappel down it first unless you can confidently downclimb or solo 5.11.

Protection Toprope Anchor. Shared bolts with "Here's Johnny" and "Blood and Guts"

Description More overhanging face climbing past flaring horizontal cracks. Not a safe trad lead, at least one person has decked and broken bones after a lead attempt. A good candidate for bolting.

Protection Top anchor. Shared bolts with "Here's Johnny" and "Hang Ten"

Description Climb the crack in the corner past a low crux to easier climbing near the top.

Protection Rack up to 3". Bolted anchors at the top but they are very far back so you need a lot of cord. 10M cordalette and slings.

Description Start by reaching to the back of a body sized crack for a good hold and climb up into the double crack system. Hug the two cracks, lay back or use your crack climbing skills to get to the top.

Location Immediately to the right of the Blood Bath dihedral

Protection Rack up to 4". Bolted anchor on top are very far back so you need a lot of cord.

Description Climb side pulls and crimps up the face to some reachy moves from the mid point up to a good hold before the finish.

Location A few feet to the right of Shake 'n' Bake starting under a good flake for your right hand.

Protection Top rope only. Bolted anchors very close to the edge. Can be set up with two one-foot slings.

Description Climb the corner crack starting from the big, elevated ledge. A decent beginner lead.

Protection Standard Rack, top bolts for toproping. Can bet set up with two 2ft slings or 1 240cm sling.

Description The double crack system just right of the large ledge. The start can consist of a left sidepull for the left hand leaning the body with the right hip to the wall, a right jug on the horizontal crack, and feet on some of the features underneath. The climb then proceeds to the anchor, following the right crack as the holds get slightly bigger at the end, with pebbly footholds on the way up.

Location Start to the right of the ledge of "Little Jack's Corner" and to the left of the start for "Grunt".

Protection There is currently a two-bolt anchor at the top for top-roping/anchor set up. This anchor can be set with two one-foot slings and four (locking) carabiners, or a similar configuration with other gear such as a cordelette and/or sling webbing.

To lead the route, standard trad rack, with an emphasis on small cams.

Pull through the roof from the ground on the left hand side and either go up a little before trending right or traversing immediately. Use the cracks and tension to work your way to the top. Super strenuous for the grade but no particularly hard moves.

Protection Rack to 3" with an optional bigger piece at the top. Glue-in 2 bolt anchor installed in fall 2020. Can be set up with two 2 ft slings. Previously, a gear anchor was used.

Description This climb is mostly the same as the toprope route "Jump Start" 5.11a in the Newfoundland Climbing Guide. From the FA:

"From the topo, and from my recollection, The Art of Body Karate looks to be around where Jump Start is. Or slightly to the left? I think it’s the thin seam just to the left of Jump Start. I recall it involves some thin finger jamming and some very cool high-kick body karate moves (hence the name)"

-Greg Foote

Protection Glue-in bolted anchor installed Fall 2020. Can be set up with one 240cm sling. Shares an anchor with "Jump Start"

Standard rack with an emphasis on small cams, if leading.

On the same bolted anchor as "The Art of Body Karate.

This climb starts with a 'jump start,' to the features and crack above.

Description Thrash up the flared chimney, which becomes easier as you approach the top. Crux to start the route. Caution that getting to this route on the ground from the left might be slippery.

Protection Bolted anchor set back over the edge, with another bolt for top-belaying. Likely a well protected lead with a standard rack. Can be set up with two two-foot slings or one 240cm sling.

Bolted anchor on the corner to the right of "Sue Be Doo". Glue-in anchor bolts installed Fall 2020. Caution that getting to this route from the ground from the left might be slippery. Can be set up with two 2ft slings or one 240 cm sling.

Description A small area that has received recent development to make it popular once again. The area comprises of a long short cliff which then gets taller and continues round the corner. Around the corner is also a great swimming hole in a gorgeous location that often gets busy in summer.

NOTE: The entire left hand end of this crag has broken away leaving a new corner. The route "Mao's Little Red Book" in the guide no longer exists. Unfortunately, the new corner seems to have a stream running down it.

Sorting of routes is 'left to right' when looking at the face from the bottom of the crag, and facing away from the ocean.

The routes are short enough here that adjacent ones can be set up on an "M" to get two topropes out of one rope, with two anchors. If one has two ropes and four anchors, then one can set up four topropes with all of the available top anchor bolts, if all of the bolts currently have hangers.

The side topo photo that has four topropes set up uses this M configuration, showing the routes from left to right in order having been set up from the top for walking around and subsequently toproping below.

Description Climb the series of sharp pockets trending left before topping out either left using the last pocket or with a big move straight up.

Protection For a toprope anchor, this can be set from the top using two two-foot slings and four locking carabiners, or similar.

For leading it on gear, "Small gear in the crystal pockets".

Description Pull a hard move from the ground to establish on the layback. Work your way up the layback to a good side pull jug before making a big move to the top.

Protection Top rope only. Two bolt anchor. Can be set up with two two-foot slings & four locking carabiners, or similar.

Climb the parallel finger cracks.

In an otherwise underwhelming area this is a little gem of a route. Just a shame it isn't longer or it could be a classic.

Climb the obvious crack feature starting off with laybacking before hitting a slot that takes everything from finger locks to fists. From the slot climb up through a jug to a thin hand crack leading to the top.

Protection

For toprope, Bolt anchor on top. Can be set up with two two foot slings and four locking carabiners, or similar.

For trad, Extremely bomber protection. Could easily be climbed with a rack to 1" but also takes gear up to 4".

When at the base of the crag facing the rock and away from the ocean... To the right of "The International" but to the left of "Davy Jones" which is frequently in the ocean, there is a climb that has a glue-in bolted anchor.

This climb is extremely photogenic from the top or from the side, espcially when the tides area high, because one can appear to be climbing over the ocean whe it is in fact, an optical illusion of sorts.

It can be toproped by scrambling carefully (especially when wet!) to the glue-in bolts and setting it up. For toprope it can be set up with two two-foot slings & four locking carabiners, or similar.

Rappel down to the route, or walk around and scramble and walk to the base like the other climbs in the area. Note that the base of this route is often to be the first to be submerged by the waves as the tide gets high.

Belayer can be prepared to keep belaying even if they end/up/momentarily/underwater. It is advised not to keep anything unatached near the base of this route, as it may get swept into the ocean.

A dry rope can be helpful for this route, as the extra rope can often get caught up in the atlantic ocean.

This area is located next to a great swimming hole, close to where the river flows into the ocean. You can rap down from the top of the climbs to reach the base or scramble down along the river. *Note. Davy Jones, Salty nuts and Seaweed tea are located just around the corner, on the east facing cliff, from the main wall.

Start the 1st pitch next to the ocean. walk along the large ledge to start the second pitch (Seaweed tea).

Start next to Davy jones. Finish the second pitch (seaweed tea) the same as you would for Davy Jones.

When the tide is high or the sea is rough you can rap into the start of Seaweed tea without having to climb up Davy Jones or Salty Nuts first.

Start on the very left hand side of the ledge and climb to the bolt and the further left and up with good exposure as you move over the ocean.

Climb straight up the line of bolts to the left of the crack.

Climb the obvious crack to the top.

Climb the line immediately right of the crack.

The left most of the three routes which start on the higher ledge. Climb up the face and pull through the roof.

The middle route of the three which start on the higher ledge.

The right most of the routes which start on the higher ledge.

Parking on Wade's Lane is no longer permitted, upon request of the town of Flatrock, please used the designated parking areas. The suggested approach to Main Face has changed since the release of the 2008 climbing guide, please refer to the map for more details.

Map: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/117632255

Parking on Wade's Lane is no longer permitted, upon request of the town of Flatrock, please used the designated parking areas. The suggested approach to Main Face has changed since the release of the 2008 climbing guide, please refer to the map for more details.

Map: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/117632255

Two obvious boulders

Parking on Wade's Lane is no longer permitted, upon request of the town of Flatrock, please used the designated parking areas. The suggested approach to Main Face has changed since the release of the 2008 climbing guide, please refer to the map for more details.

Map: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/117632255

Parking on Wade's Lane is no longer permitted, upon request of the town of Flatrock, please used the designated parking areas. The suggested approach to Main Face has changed since the release of the 2008 climbing guide, please refer to the map for more details.

Map: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/117632255