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Niselheim

  • Contexto de grado: US
  • Ascensiones: 2

Estacionalidad

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Descripción

The smaller peak to the immediate west of Gimli

Restricciones heredado de Valhalla Provincial Park

Area is in a provincial park, but access is via a logging road. High clearance vehicle recommended, give way to logging trucks. Radio up and down if possible.

Acceso

See 'Valhalla Provincial Park' for description from Slocan.

From the base camp, follow the trail along the base of the West face of 'Gimli' to the base of Niselheim. You may need to traverse across a snow field in the spring or early summer. Ice axe and/or crampons are recommended.

Descenso

Walk down the north ridge

Ética heredado de West Kootenays

Be mindful of wildlife, especially in more remote areas.

Vías

Añadir vía(s) Añadir croquis Reordenar Edición en bloque Convertir grados
Grado Vía
1 5.9 35m
2 5.10b 50m
3 5.10a 25m
4 30m

Start at the right facing corner about 8m left of 'South Face'.

  1. Climb up right facing corner to the ledge above.

  2. Continue up to the right of the roof to the bolted belay at the top of the right facing corner.

  3. Follow the features out right and up. (no bolted belay)

  4. Work back left towards the summit. (bolted anchor at the top)

Descent: Two 60m ropes required, two 70m recommended) Rappel Down using the anchors of Pitch 4 to the top of pitch 2. Could not find the anchor for pitch 1 (June 2020), but using two 70m ropes can rappel all the way to the base from the top of pitch 2. You could also go into the gully of pitch 1 of 'South Face' and link a 3rd rappel from the small spire in the gully (slings in place but don't appear to be in the best shape).

1 5.9 35m
2 5.10b 50m
3 5.10d 50m

Start as per 'South Face Direct'.

  1. as per 'South Face Direct'.

  2. as per 'South Face Direct'.

  3. Follow bolts up for a more direct finish to the anchor above.

Descent: as per 'South Face Direct'.

Start below the gully in the middle of the south face, just left of the small cave.

  1. Climb up the gully to a small alcove just below the steep face.

  2. Continue up the off-width crack in the steep face, features inside the crack provide good hand holds. Continue up the slab above and then climb the chimney through the hole above. Anchor on the steep face to the left.

  3. Climb the exposed steep face to the summit. It is possible to use the bolted anchors of 'South Face Direct' at the top.

Descent: Two 60m ropes required, two 70m recommended) Rappel Down using the anchors of 'South Face Direct'. Could not find the anchor for pitch 1 (June 2020), but using two 70m ropes can rappel all the way to the base from the top of pitch 2. You could also go into the gully of pitch 1 of 'South Face' and link a 3rd rappel from the small spire in the gully (slings in place but don't appear to be in the best shape).

PA: M Langlois & L Rotter, 1996

Can be used as a walk off.

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Autor(es): Rich Wheater

Fecha: 2015

número ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

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