Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fairy Cave Tiger Wall | |||||
6b | ★★ Outer Space
Start at the short bouldery overhanging section to the left of the obvious tufa on small brittle holds (best to clip-stick the first bolt). Climb up and left on holds and tufas. Finish up into the large overhanging tufas through the big hole/chimney. Good only during the dry season. PA: Andy Popeye Su, 2012 | 25m, 13 | |||
6b+ | ★ Inner Space
Variation to Outer Space. From the bolt leading into the chimney (second last bolt) move right through the tufas. PA: Noh Muhammad, 2012 | 26m, 14 | |||
6a | ★★ Thanks Andy
Start to the right of the tufa (same start as "Space Invaders") then climb left and straight up the dihedral and tufa structures to the chain anchor. PA: Malcolm Jitam, 2012 | 20m, 10 | |||
6b | ★★ Space Invaders
Shares the start and 1st bolt with "Thanks Andy" then goes straight up the face and into the tufas. PA: Alexander Hölke, 2012 | 10m, 5 | |||
5c | ★★ At Last!
Obvious face climb straight up the grey and later white rock to the chain anchor. Dry for most of the year. PA: Eunice Lin, 2012 | 20m, 7 | |||
6c | ★★ Take Five
Starts to the right of "At last!". Climb up the grey rock on sharp holds, through tufas then the white dihedral to the chain anchor. Use long slings as the route zig-zags at the lower part. Good only during dry season. Equip: Andy Popeye Su & Alexander Hölke, 2012 PA: Ateng Safardi, 2012 | 25m, 13 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Boulder
PA: Mel Jitam, 2012 | 20m, 8 | |||
6c | Happy Ending
PA: Ateng Safardi, 2012 | 23m, 12 | |||
6b | Tubi Or Man Tubi
PA: Derek Cheng, 2012 | 25m, 13 | |||
7b+ | Kuching Hero
PA: Andy Popeye Su, 2013 | ||||
6a+ | Sense Of Victory
Start the same as as "Both Sides Of 50" then branches off to the left. PA: Eunice Lin, 2013 | 22m, 11 | |||
6a+ | Both Sides of 50
PA: Eunice Lin, 2012 | 18m, 8 | |||
6b | Balls Of Brass
PA: Ryan Weller, 2012 | 15m, 5 | |||
Fairy Cave Batman Wall | |||||
6a | Boleh Bah Kalau Kau
Shares the starting bolt and 2nd bold with "The Joker" then climb left and up. PA: Beverly Tam, 2012 | 15m, 5 | |||
6b+ | ★★ The Joker
Starting bolt is to the left of the tufa of Two Egg Bacon Burger. Climb up and slightly left to the overhanging section to a rest point inside a chimney. Then finish up with a few moves through a steep wall to the chain anchor. PA: Alexander Hölke, 2012 | 15m, 7 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Two Egg Bacon Burger
This is the only ground-up start at Batman up the obvious tufa pillar. Climb up to good pockets and awkward moves. You may find the anchor hard to clip when on-sighting. Equip: Alexander Hölke & Asang Nikander, 2008 PA: Alexander Hölke, 2009 | 12m, 6 | |||
6b | ★★ Pickpocket
Climb up tho the ledge then the overhanging wall at the left hand side of the alcove. Equip: Alexander Hölke & Noh Muhammad, 2011 PA: Noh Muhammad, 2011 | 15m, 7 | |||
6b | ★★ Happy Feet
Climb up to the ledge and stem up inside the corner. Move right to avoid the roof and climb up the face passed a huge jug to the anchor. PA: Alexander Hölke, 2011 | 15m, 7 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Bomba Chimney
Batman start is just to the right of Happy Feet. The lower chimney used to be covered with a black grime but has been cleaned in 2011 and again in 2020. Climb up the short wall then further an offwidth/chimney crack on large holds. A layback move to the right gets you to another chimney section and a balancy finish to the anchor chain. PA: Ateng Safardi, 2011 | 15m, 8 | |||
6b | ★★ Rodeo Jitam
Starts to the left of "Holy Thundering Meteorite, Batman!" - and just left of the finishing bolts of the roof climb "Show Pony". Climb up some pockets to the obvious ledge with the large blackish rock bridge (this is the horse) then slightly right up the fist crack to another ledge. Climb the roof and continue to the anchor. PA: Mel Jitam, 2011 | 15m, 7 | |||
6b+ | ★★★ End Of The Universe
1
6a+
2
6b+
A 2 pitch extension of "Rodeo Jitam". PA: Andy Popeye & Yi Chuan, 2013 | 2 | |||
6c | ★★ Holy Thundering Meteorite - Batman!
Thuggy start leads to a little bit techy mid section followed by a easier finish. Use the leftmost starting bolt. PA: Ch’ien Lee & Glen McNair, 2003 | 15m, 8 | |||
6c+ | ★★ Meet Your Maker
Extension to Meteorite. Avoid the anchor but continue upwards to a rest point inside a small cave. Climb up further passed some tricky moves (crux) to the anchor of Kapur Chimney. PA: DS, 2012 | 28m, 13 | |||
7a | Meet My Mother
Extension of Meet Your Maker. Continue up the same extension of Kapur Chimney until the anchor. PA: Ian Chung | 33m, 18 | |||
6a | ★★ 999
One of the easiest route at batman wall and often used as a top rope for beginners trying to get a feel for a hanging start. Cool moves and as usual the start is always tricky and will throw some people off. Not that easy to onsight but once u know all the moves it's a 30sec climb. PA: Jimen, 1999 | 15m, 8 | |||
6b+ | ★★★ Kapur Chimney
The Classic at Batman wall, make sure you get on this when you're here. The start is tricky and crimpy - get through that and what follows is fantastic climbing. PA: John Norman, 1999 PA: Alexander Hölke, 2008 | 25m, 12 | |||
7a | ★★ Verlängerung
Continue from the Chimney anchor (no-hands) further up through the wall and tufas (crux). Better use long draws for the lower part to avoid rope drag. PA: Alexander Hölke, Feb 2019 | 32m, 17 | |||
8a | A Tear
Follow "Cicak", 1st to 3rd Clip, then Traverse across "Simtoi", "Bas Laici" and "Johnny be Good" to end at "Jansson's Temptation". PA: Garth Miller, 1999 | ||||
7b+ | ★★ Cicak
Powerful start and sustained climbing to the ledge. The climbing continues up the face (crux) keeping left of Simtoi. Cicak is Gecko in Malay. PA: Simon Wilson, 1999 | 20m, 7 | |||
7b | ★★ Simtoi
Batman start and climb through the technical and pumpy overhang (crux right at the start) to the ledge. Further up through a few shared moves with "Bas Laici" but then keep to the left. The route is named after a local dog which was omnipresent during the 1999 bolting activities. PA: Garth Miller, 1999 | 20m, 8 | |||
7a | Elephant Ears
Variations and Traverse. Start on "Bas Laici" then "Simtoi" and across "Cicak" to "Kapur Chimney". There are a few Original moves between "Cicak" and "Kapur Chimney" protected by a bolt. PA: Monique Forestier, 1999 | 22m | |||
7a | ★★★ Bas Laici
The classic 7a at Batman Wall. Climb through the juggy overhang to a rest point at the ledge. Move further up then stay right. Shares Batman starting bolts with "Johnny B. Goode" and a few moves with "Simtoi" after the ledge. Named after the not-so-white bus, which was taking the Australien team to the wall. PA: Simon Wilson, 1999 | 15m, 5 | |||
7c | ★★★ Johnny B. Goode
Shares the starting bolts with as "Bas Laici" but goes to the right then up through the overhanging wall. Named after the famous song by Chuck Berry, and the only western one the local band new and played again and again. PA: Garth Miller, 1999 | 20m, 9 | |||
7a+ | ★★★ Jansson’s Temptation
Long moves on overhanging rock with a good rest at about the center of the climb. This route was left as a project by the Australian Team in 1999. Chi'en Lee was working on it when Swedish climber Jansson made a visit and unknowingly snatched the route from him. PA: Christer Jansson, 2000 | 20m, 7 | |||
7b+ | Grime Alley
Another project left by the original Australien bolters. Unfortunately the crux hold is always grimy and hence, aspirants need to be prepared to do some cleaning. PA: Ch’ien Lee, 2007 | 15m, 5 | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Laba Laba
Pumpy lower section and less steep but technical upper section. Laba Laba means Spider in Malay. The route has two enxensions in 2012, a left variant called "Titu-Titu" and a right one called "Rama-Rama". PA: Alexander Hölke, 2009 | 17m, 9 | |||
7a | ★★ Titu-Titu
Extension to Laba Laba, Climb all the way right towards the Big Staglatite. Use Long Draws for less Rope drag. PA: Yi Chuan, 2013 | 31m, 16 | |||
6c+ | ★★ Rama-Rama
Right extension of Laba Laba. The final moves is for chimney-lovers. PA: Andy Popeye Su, 2014 | 40m, 17 | |||
7a+ | ★★★ Fledermaus
The start is to the right of Laba Laba. Sustained with interesting moves. Off starting bolt climb through overhanging rock to the 3rd bolt for a sitting rest on a lump. Climb further up with more tricky and balancy moves to the chain anchor. PA: Alexander Hölke, 2009 | 20m, 9 | |||
7a | ★★ Robin
This route has a sign board. Climb the overhanging rock using pockets and tufas with long and powerful moves. PA: Asang Nikander, 2010 | 20m, 8 | |||
7b | ★★★ Buzz Lightyear
One of the longer routes on the wall. Batman start just to the right of "Robin". Sustained. PA: Alexander Hölke, 2011 | 30m, 11 | |||
7a+ | ★★ Noh Came Late
Batman start to the right of Buzz Lightyear. Sustained climbing throught the overhanging wall. PA: Noh Muhammad, 2011 | 20m, 7 | |||
7b+ | ★★ Shark Attack
Sustained, pumpy and technical. Has an interestingly-shaped hold looking like a shark fin about halfway up. PA: Alexander Hölke, 2013 | 20m, 8 | |||
6c+ | Snake Skin
The route batman-starts fairly low then traverses right and up. The anchor is just below the large and sometimes wet tufa. PA: Noh Muhammad, 2012 | 12m, 6 | |||
7b+ | ★★ Papa Swing
The routed follows the line just to the right of the large (and often wet)stalactite. PA: Alexander Hölke, 2014 | 27m, 9 | |||
7b | ★ Bye-Bye Kuching
This climb may be wet during the wet season (Dec-April). Pumpy and technical. Equip: DS & Alexander Hölke, Feb 2016 PA: Alexander Hölke, Dic 2019 | 27m, 11 | |||
Bolting Project
Last line at the right far end of Batman Wall. 2 anchor bolts were set in September 2016 by Alexander Hölke, top rope can be set up from "Bye-Bye Kuching". Batman start off a solid sling also left in 2016. | 20m | ||||
Fairy Cave Batman Wall Batman Roof | |||||
7c | 14 Year Lottery
Ground up start at the Tufa of "Two Egg Bacon Burger" and then move right, Shares the last two bolts with "If I could Just Reach My Utility Belt PA: Brian Tan, 2013 | 8m | |||
8a | If I could just reach my Utility belt
Batman Start is about 5 metres to the right of the large tufa of "Two egg bacon burger" Route PA: Simon Wilson, 1999 | 8m, 5 | |||
7c+ | ★★★ Show Pony
Shares Starting bolt with "Broken Wings" and "A Smile". Uses the leftmost boltline. Finish is between the start of "Rodeo Jitam" and "Holy Thundering Meteorite - Batman!". Gymnastic Roof Climbing leads to the crux towards the end. PA: Garth Miller, 1999 | 7m, 6 | |||
8c | Broken Wings
The name apparently came from doing the First Ascent when Garth broke the wings of a bat in one of the deep pockets. A pure roof climb that starts same as "A Smile" but veers left at the 5th bolt PA: Garth Miller, 1999 | 8m, 6 | |||
8b+ | A Smile
Starts under the roof 6m left of "Panggang Cicak" Start | ||||
8c | A Smile and A Tear
Another Wild traverse. Starts under the roof 6m left of "Panggang Cicak" start. After the roof, Follow Cicak, 1st to 3rd clip, then traverse across "Simtoi", "Bas Laici" and "Johnny B. Goode" to end at "Jansson’s Temptation" If Climbed Separately, Garth Reckons the roof called 'A Smile"is grade 8b+ and the wall called "A Tear" is grade 8a PA: Garth Miller, 1999 | 25m, 15 | |||
7c+ | Panggang Cicak (Toasted Gecko)
Variation of "Cicak" with a roof start. It is recommended to switch Ropes Once on the main wall due to rope drag PA: Simon Wilson, 1999 | 25m, 12 | |||
7c | Full Simtoi
Variation of "Simtoi" with a roof start. Shares the 1st bolt with "Pangang Cicak". It is recommended to switch Ropes due to rope drag. PA: Garth Miller, 1999 | 25m, 12 | |||
Fairy Cave Zoo Wall | |||||
6c | ★★ The Incredible Roof
Climber and belayer need to scramble up some boulders to a good ledge and clip the first bolt. Climb up the wall to a ledge to a spectacular finish - the roof. Equip: Alexander Hölke & Noh Muhammad PA: Alexander Hölke, 2011 | 29m, 10 | |||
5b | ★★ Chxqo
Starts at a chimney then continues slightly left and back right to the anchor. Named after Noh's girlfriend, whose birthday he missed with all the bolting and cleaning.. PA: Noh Muhammad, 2010 | 22m, 9 | |||
5b | ★★ Amy The Last
5m right of Chxqo on sharp grey rock. Named after Doni's youngest daughter at the time. PA: Doni Dahari, 2010 | 18m, 8 | |||
6c | ★ Sidewinder
Extension of Amy The Last. Climb through a sequence of interesting side pulls. PA: Alexander Hölke, 2010 | 28m, 16 | |||
Fairy Cave Staircase Wall | |||||
5b | Take It Easy
PA: Malcolm Jitam, 2011 | 12m, 5 | |||
5b | Middleton
PA: Malcolm Jitam, 2011 | 12m, 5 | |||
5b | Crux Deluxe
PA: Malcolm Jitam, 2011 | 10m, 4 | |||
Fairy Cave Cerrado Fairy Cave Wall | |||||
6c | No Pants All Gain
PA: Hans Breuer, 2013 | 2, 20 | |||
6b | ?
PA: Malcolm Jitam, 2014 | 2 | |||
6c | ★★ Fists Of Fairy
1
6a+
2
6b
3
6c
This route starts just at the top of fairy cave after you walk up the stair just before you enter the big cave in front of you. You will need a clip stick to clip the first bolt and batman start and once you are at the starting bolt you will need to get your belayer/partner up as well to hang there while belaying you. There didn't use to be a entry fee but now there is a hut set just outside the parking area by the state government and the entry fee is RM1 for Malaysians and RM5 for Tourist. PA: Ch’ien Lee & Glen MacNair, 2005 | 45m, 3 | |||
Fairy Cave Cerrado Nepenthes Wall | |||||
5c | ★★ Crack Slacker
PA: Mel Jitam, 2009 | 10m, 4 | |||
6c | ★★ Snake Charmer
PA: Ch’ien Lee, 2002 | 10m, 3 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Ang Moh China
PA: Ch’ien Lee, 2002 | 10m, 3 | |||
5c | ★ Sofanochet
PA: Glen MacNair, 2002 Mant: Alexander Hölke & Asang, 2009 | 10m, 4 | |||
Fairy Cave The Groove | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Fat Fingers
PA: Ryan Weller, 2012 | 5m, 2 | |||
6b | ★★ Toprope Problem
PA: Noh Muhammad, 2012 | 5m | |||
6b+ | ★★ Oh My English
PA: Ryan Weller, 2012 | 5m | |||
7a+ | Rumble in the Jungle
PA: Simon Wilson, 2013 | 21m, 8 | |||
6c | Welcome to the Jungle
PA: Simon Wilson, 2012 | 19m, 7 | |||
Fairy Cave Orchid Wall | |||||
7a+/b | ★★★ Pulik Likau
Hard boulder start into beautiful face climbing before a technical lay-back sequence to gain the anchor. Bottom overhanging part is sharp rock and often wet. Top half is good quality, a wide crack/off-width. Equip: Alexander Hölke & Malcolm PA: Noh Muhammad, En 2019 | 33m, 12 | |||
7b+ | Baby’s Song
PA: Sunny Yang, 2014 | 19m, 9 | |||
6c | ★★ Popeye’s Vacation
PA: Andy Popeye Su, 2012 | 28m, 12 | |||
Fairy Cave Stage Wall | |||||
5c | Angin Angin
PA: Jimen, 1999 | 7m, 3 | |||
6b | No Name
PA: 1999 | 7m, 3 | |||
6a+ | Nama Bodo
PA: Daron, 1999 | 7m, 3 | |||
5a | ★ Baby Climb
This is the only true beginner's climb at batman wall area. Climb up the pocketed wall past 2 bolts to the anchor. The crux is between the last bolt to the anchor. PA: 1999 | 5m, 2 | |||
Bako National Park Teluk Assam Yellow Wall | |||||
6b+ | ★★ An Intertidal Affair
Line on the far left of the wall. Equip: Alexander Hölke & Pearl C Ee, Oct 2016 PA: Pearl C Ee, En 2017 | 30m, 13 | |||
Bako National Park Teluk Assam Assam Tower Assam Tower East | |||||
6c+ | ★★ East Face
1
6c+
15m
2
6b+
20m
3
6b
5m
Rap off the way you came up. With a 60m rope this requires you to swing quite far to the right to reach the 1st anchor. Equip: Alexander Hölke, DS, Noh Muhammad & Doni, Sep 2018 PA: Alexander Hölke, Oct 2018 | 40m, 3, 17 | |||
6b+ | Neurosurgery
Climb the bolt line at the right end of the wall into the chimney and then back onto the wall again. Top out keeping right to the platform then walk a few meter left to a good double bolt anchor. Watch out for loose rock when topping out of the chimney. Top wall part can get dirty after the wet season. Equip: Alexander Hölke & Soh, Jul 2015 PA: Alexander Hölke, Sep 2015 | 20m, 9 | |||
Bako National Park Teluk Assam Assam Tower Assam Tower West | |||||
6b+ | ★ West Side Story
1
6b+
20m
2
5c
10m
From here either find the Abseil point further up and right, or follow P3 of Sandstone Wonderland to the summit. PA: Alexander Hölke, Sep 2016 | 30m, 2, 10 | |||
5b | ★ Bako Squeeze
Starts at the rocky base up large holds to the ledge in into the chimney. Climb finishes on top of the chimney on the platform (anchor). This anchor is suitable for toproping. PA: Alexander Hölke, Abr 2016 | 15m, 3 | |||
6a | ★★ Sandstone Wonderland
1
6a
20m
2
5c
20m
3
6a
20m
Abseiling you have 3 options:
| 60m, 3, 13 | |||
6b | ★ Red Heat
Starts to the right of Sandstone Wonderland, you need to steo down from the rocky platform to the sandy beach. Climb up the leaning wall to the platform. Shares the anchor with Bako Squeeze. PA: Alexander Hölke, Jun 2015 | 15m, 5 | |||
6b | ★ Early Wakeup Call
Climb up the prominent slightly leaning face further to the right up on the beach. PA: Noh Muhammad, Sep 2014 | 20m, 8 | |||
Abseil Point
| 40m | ||||
A0 | Access Route
Scramble up on top of a pillar then clip slings to step up on gain the 1st bolt. Then climb the slab past 2 more bolts and built and anchor using the small trees. Either continue up the last pitch of Sandstone Wonderland or find he Abseil Point facing West. PA: Noh Muhammad, 2013 | 10m, 4 | |||
Bolting Project
Starts at the big face to the right of Access Route. Not completed, one section needs cleaning an additional bolt placement. Also the top out gully is still dirty - it may be better to place a lower off anchor below. Crux is the overhanging wall difficulty about 6c+..7a. Equip: Alexander Hölke, Ag 2016 | 20m, 8 | ||||
Bako National Park Teluk Assam Wild Boar | |||||
5b | Wild Boar
Easiest route through the middle of the east face. PA: Alexander Hölke, Ag 2015 | 10m, 3 | |||
5b | The Whale's Lip
Starts at the right hand side in a sort of chimney then diagonals up further right. Equip: Alexander Hölke & Doni, Sep 2018 PA: Mohd Syawalluddin, Oct 2018 | ||||
Serian | |||||
6b | ★ Wing Chung
Climb the obvious dehedral at the left end of the wall starting at a right-leaning crack. Dry from May-Oct. Has one non-stainless expansion bolt which was never replaced. Equip: Andy Popye, 2012 PA: Yi Chuan, 2012 | 20m, 7 | |||
Project (bolted)
Straight up some tufa to the overhanging wall. From the ledge go to the anchor of the next route project. Note that the start (tufa) is dry only from July to September only. Grade suggestion is definitely harder than 7c. Equip: Andy Popeye, 2012 | 12m, 6 | ||||
Bolting Project
Looks fingery. Shares the anchor with the bolted project to the left. Equip: Noh Muhammad & Alexander Hölke | 12m | ||||
7a+ | Evil Chimney
Interesting and unusual climbing on limestone. Harder than it looks. Climb/stem up a few meters into the obvious chimney, which is open at the bottom. Chimney along horizontally out to the main face while it gets tighter. When you feel stuck move out of the chimney/offwidth into the overhanging wall. Climb the crack and later the face to the anchor. It is a good idea to clip stick the first bolt as the first meters are of lower rock quality. Equip: Noh Muhamman & Alexander Hölke, 2011 PA: Noh Muhammad, 2011 | 16m, 8 | |||
7c+ | Project "The Dyno"
Starts at the left hand side of a small cave then traverses left over to some pockets and holds. Then do the dyno and continue up the face/tufas to the anchor. Grade suggestion >7c Equip: Alexander Hölke & Noh Muhammad, 2011 | 12m, 6 | |||
6c | Jug Party
Starts at the right hand side of a small cave. Climb up the steep overhanging crack to the space beween two large stalagtites and a ledge above. Continue up the overhanging white wall to the anchor. Not recommended during the wet season (Nov-April) as the stalagtites are wet. PA: Alexander Hölke, 2011 | 12m, 6 |