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Lower Tier Sobre todo Escalada deportiva 42 vías en acantilado

42
AU
571013151719

Estacionalidad

E
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Descripción

Left section has short, snappy climbs in the 18 and 19 grade range. Some of the lower grade climbs have a lot of wear. All the longer climbs down to the right of the crag are of excellent value. All the routes are labelled.

Restricciones heredado de Wharepapa Rock

The crag facilities take time and money to maintain. If you climb, you pay, no exceptions.

Recreational climbers do not need to call ahead before visiting but must pay the daily access fee. Payment is cash-only at the crag, or by bank transfer to account 03 1399 0073627 00 - reference: your name and "day pass".

Guided or commercial groups (including school groups) must book in advance by emailing wharepaparock@gmail.com.

The crag is on private farmland - please obey a few simple rules:

  • Ensure all gates are left as they were found and are properly latched. If you open a gate, you close it.
  • Do not climb over fences, this can slacken the wires.
  • Climb safely and responsibly.
  • Strictly no dogs.

Acceso

Follow track from carpark. First cliff you get to is the Lower Tier.

Some routes are closed until tree fall debris is dealt with. Please stay out of taped-off areas and do not move the tapes.

Follow the track right around to the far right for taller walls, overhangs and chimneys.

Many routes have pull cords to easily put up top ropes.

Etiquetas

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Guías

Vías

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Grado Vía
1
13 ★ Crooked Crack Clásica 8m

PA: Gary Lokum & Christina Walsh, 1988

2
16 ★ Rocksteady Deportiva 7m, 2

PA: Richard Bull & Luke Hollister, 1990

3
5 ★★ Ain't Nothin' To It Top-rope 7m
4
13 Stairway Clásica 7m
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5
14 ★ Yellowcake UF6 Top-rope 9m

PA: Grant Pearson & Gary Lokum, 1987

6
19 ★ Cawabunga Deportiva 12m, 3
Cerrado

Overhanging start on good holds to short vertical face. Closed due to anchor damage.

PA: Richard Bull, 1990

7
20 ★ Oh My God Deportiva 12m, 4

Steep start to vertical face all on small sharp pockets.

PA: Grant Davidson, David Bailey & Graham Charles, 1989

8
17 ★ Career Opportunities Clásica 13m

Follow right leaning crack. Rock a bit friable.

PA: Grant Davidson & David Bailey, 1989

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9
19 ★★ Exponential Decay Deportiva 13m, 4

Tough start up through scoop, then onto tricky vertical face.

PA: Grant Davidson & Graham Charles, 1989

10
18 ★ Groove Thang Deportiva 12m, 3

Follow shallow groove up on small holds. Harder than it looks.

PA: Grant Davidson & Graham Charles, 1989

11
18 ★ Out With The Boys Deportiva 15m, 4

Up thru scoop onto vertical face on good holds. Pumpy.

PA: Grant Davidson & Graham Charles, 1989

12
19 ★★ Wild Country Express Deportiva 16m, 5

Go straight up thru overhang on small holds to face with good holds

PA: Richard Bull, 1990

13
16 ★ Pockmark Clásica mixta 14m, 2

NOT the bolts, that is Wild Country Express. The corner crack on trad gear. Be careful of the rock at top.

PA: Graeme Dingle, 1980

14
16 Mild Thing Deportiva 14m, 2

PA: Luke Newnham, 1989

15
18 ★ Ground Up Ethics Deportiva 14m, 5

Vertical face to arete. Clip bolt on left side of arete and carry on up right of arete to higher anchors, or bail up left to easy finish.

PA: Rose Dennis & Tim Goldwin, 1989

16
17 ★ Green Spot Deportiva 16m, 5

Pumpy vertical face on some smaller holds.

17
16 ★ Facetious Deportiva 14m, 4

Great holds all the way up right side of vertical face.

PA: Hugh Nicholson & Andy Palman, 1989

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18
12 ★ Receding Hairline Clásica 14m

PA: Reece Hill, 1989

19
13 ★ Gary's Arete Deportiva 14m, 5

Pockets are too worn now to rate any stars.

PA: Gary Lokum & Christina Walsh, 1988

20
16 ★★ Ride On Time Deportiva 14m, 4

Good moves right of arete. Thinner than it looks.

PA: Richard Bull & Ian Ross, 1990

21
15 ★ Oliver's Twist / New Climb Deportiva 12m, 5

Best grade 15 here with good holds over bulges. The tag at the bottom has another name for it now.

22
15 ★ Black Rider Deportiva 12m, 4
23
13 ★★★ Sweet Pacific Potion Top-rope 12m
24
19 ★★ Up N Away Deportiva 10m

Advertencia Flora y Fauna: Bees

25
17 ★ The Rat Deportiva 15m

Straight up the wall then easier after the lip.

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26
14 ★★ Cannibal Groove Deportiva 23m, 6

Excellent grade 14 corner climb with good holds and airy climbing. Originally climbed on gear, and still can be.

PA: Graeme Dingle & Bruce Calkin, 1980

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27
19 ★ Built For Comfort Deportiva 15m, 5

Pumpy arete climb

28
18 ★ Haul Away Deportiva 15m, 5

Great holds on steep face.

29
16 ★★ Strange New Worlds Deportiva 23m, 7

Great grade 16 corner climb. Crux is getting into the corner.

PA: Grant Davidson, Peter Kettering, Hugh van Noorden & Graham Charles, 1989

30
20 ★★ Klingons Deportiva 23m, 6

Up into the scoop, tackle the overhanging bulge, continue up the blunt arete.

31
18 ★★ Space, The Final Frontier Deportiva 23m, 7

Excellent climb on good holds. Steep face to tricky corner.

PA: Grant Davidson, David Bailey & Peter Kettering, 1989

32
17 ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls Deportiva 20m, 7

Excellent Grade 17 arete climb with good holds all the way. Crux is small overhang near the top.

PA: Grant Davidson, Peter Kettering & David Bailey, 1989

33
16 ★ The Grim Reamer Deportiva 16m, 5

Face climb to awkward deep groove. Exit this to anchors.

PA: Grant Davidson & Luke Newnham, 1989

34
16 ★★ Fun Bags Deportiva 20m, 6

Great climb over jutting overhangs on good holds

PA: Grant Davidson & Graham Charles, 1989

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35
17 ★★ Virgin On Easy Deportiva 23m, 9

Excellent grade 17. Cruise thru the lower face under the roof to get across left onto the arete.

PA: Graham Charles & Grant Davidson, 1989

36
18 ★★ Reamed By Percentage Deportiva 24m, 8

Best route on the lower tier. Climb up the right arête, traverse left under the roof then bridge up into the groove (18 as per original guidebook description) or more direct using holds on the edge of the roof/arete (20 ish). Finish up the headwall on the right. Hard to rap-clean, lower with a retaining draw or have somebody second it.

PA: Graham Charles & Grant Davidson, 1989

37
18 ★★ Game Over Deportiva 23m, 5

Head straight up arete into groove on the right of roof (crux). Pumpy.

PA: Grant Davidson & Graham Charles, 1989

38
19 ★ Babs In Toyland Deportiva 14m, 4

A grassy start leads to a short wall with an overhanging crux bulge right at the top.

PA: Debbie Hinde, Simon Hent, Christine Miller & Martin Wright, 1997

39
17 ★ Sweet As Deportiva 14m, 6

Up the face and over the bulge at the top, all on good holds.

PA: Debbie Hinde, 1997

40
17 Graduation Deportiva 20m, 5

PA: David Bailey, Ben Teasdale, Grant Davidson & Graham Charles, 1989

41
13 Baghdad Café Deportiva 28m, 2

PA: Grant Davidson, Basil Simmons & Jill Novak, 1989

42
16 ★ Fizzing At The Bung Deportiva 28m, 8

Great wandering climb up face, over arete to left side and up to anchors.

PA: Grant Davidson, Graham Charles & Peter Kettering, 1989

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Iconos cercanos

13 ★★★ Sweet Pacific Potion
14 ★★ Cannibal Groove
16 ★★ Strange New Worlds
17 ★★ Virgin On Easy
18 ★★ Space, The Final Frontier
20 ★★ Klingons

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Andrew Good en ★★ Virgin On Easy 17

Steve Lane en ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls 17

Aaron Aldersley en Lower Tier - Out With The Boys

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