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Renaissance Wall

  • Contexto de grado: AU
  • Fotos: 1
  • Ascensiones: 4

Roca: Loose rock above Wolverine to Three Steps to Heaven

There is a significant amount of loose rock sitting on top of the cliff from a recent natural rock fall at a higher cliff. Strongly advise to not do the climbs between these until someone has taken all of the loose rock down.

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Creó hace 3 años
11

Estacionalidad

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Descripción

The Grand Daddy of Waipapa. Imagine Main Cliff, but steeper (including routes that stay dry in the rain), harder (don't bring the beginners), and technical (don't bring the gym rats).

Acceso

The easiest way is to boat/paddle/swim to Pontoon Wall, then follow the track up the gully. Tracks are marked with pink tape, if there aren't enough fixed ropes feel free to add some where you struggle.

It is possible to mountain bike or walk in from Waipapa Dam. Note there are a maze of tracks, forestry roads and gully's to navigate, with no confirmed easiest way in yet confirmed.

Descenso

All routes are to have two bolt belays, some may share bolts. Beware of projects that still have tree anchors or even no anchors.

Ética heredado de Waipapa

The majority of routes will need to be cleaned at the beginning of the season or after big weather events, due to the forests above the cliffs. Wire brushes will work best, but take care as you can damage the ignimbrite through excessive cleaning.

Vías

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Grado Vía

Technical climbing on small gear to the ledge at half height. Then punch it to the top up the splitter hand crack. Bolted anchor to left of crack before you hit the tree line.

PAL: Shannon Greenfield, Abr 2021

The fixed rope rebelayed at the top of the obvious scoop feature. Note any bolts currently installed are temporary retrievable bolts, lead falls are not advised. Closed Project.

Equip: Michael Donovan & Shannon Greenfield

She's a little goey, and quite unique; some might even say visionary. Startup the corner with the rock pile at the bottom, then when the time is right step right onto the slab. Watch the top mantle, it's a heart breaker.

PAL: Refael White, En 2021

A grand line. Up the face on pockets then into the corner to an anchor under the big roof. Stays dry in light rain.

Equip: Michael Donovan

PA: Tom Baanders, 15 Oct 2022

Closed Project.

Equip: Daniel Krippner

Pitch 1 (16): Up the mossy green corner, escape right before the Flake of Doom to a stance and trad belay (#1-4 cams in belay).

Pitch 2 (21): Up the hand crack, ride top of flake of doom left to regain the corner. Up the tough thin corner into the pine tree. Classic.

Double Cams .3-3 and a 4 at least.

PAL: Gerard Tarr & Justin Wimmer, Feb 2021

  1. 15m (16) Same mushy green corner and traverse as "Agony in the Garden". Try to avoid using #2 and #3 cams when building your anchor, a high #4 is useful.

  2. 25m (22) Continue up the handcrack, then traverse right to wrestle with the impressive leaning corner (.4-#3). If you make it, scuttle back left and up when the opportunity presents itself. The direct finish has not yet been climbed. Descent: Walk off, or rap off a fixed rope and carabiner anchor at the top (40m? with some tree shimmying?) Rack: At least double cams 0.3-3, one #4. Extra hand-sized pro would be nice.

PA: Gerard Tarr & Tom Baanders, 15 Oct 2022

Closed Project.

Cleaned, has anchors but bolts still to be finished. Open Project.

4 bolts to start, then trad from half height rest.

The first free ascent of Renaissance. The details of this and it's neighbour (Dacroona) were lost in the chaos of the COVID-19 crisis. Eventually Romain returned to the crag and enlightened everyone that there were some free routes.

Equip: Romain Albert, 2020

The second free ascent of Renaissance, and again by the dirty hairy Frenchman. Bring your pocket game to get into the crack, then jam on up to the ledge and bolted belay above.

PAL: Romain Albert, 2020

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