Nodos en Magaliesberg

Located on the true right of the gully below the large chock stone. Start just right of 'Sidewinder-Direct' .

1. 35m 24 Climb the thin discontinuous crack to the ledge.

The route ascends the steep grooves at the right of the buttress and follows the steep impressive corner above. Start 5m left of 'Four Man Gully' below the steepest groove.

1. 25m 19 Climb the groove to where it steepens at 6m. Ascend the smooth section, then climb a hollow flake on the right wall. From the top of this, traverse awkwardly onto a very sloping ledge. Traverse a further 6m left using a good handrail to a small ledge and chockstone belays.

2. 22m 17 Traverse 6m left and climb a very steep groove on good holds stepping left immediately above a small overhang. Climb the wall through aloes to a good ledge and peg belay in the horizontal fault running across the crag.

3. 8m 10 Ascend the recess leading up to the huge overhanging corner to a small stance and peg belay on the left.

4. 14m 19 Move up the bulging crack to the first overhang and using the left wall make a difficult move round it. Pass the second overhang using a wide crack to gain the easier-angled groove above. You may see an old wooden block from the original ascent. Lots of bird poo.

5. 25m 19 Make an awkward initial move into the corner above and ascend this with difficulty to 2m below the roof. Swing across the left wall and pull round into a shallow groove which is climbed to its top. Swing back right into the main corner above the roof and up to a good ledge and peg belay. A magnificent, well sustained pitch.

6. 15m 8 Move left and scramble to the top.

The main feature of the climb is the central groove in the top tier of the buttress. 10m below the centre of the buttress is a large tree and directly above this is a rib undercut by an overhang at 5m. To the left is a shallow scoop.

1. [15] 28m

   Ascend the shallow scoop for 6m then move up rightwards to gain the rib. Make an awkward move (peg runner in place) round the rib then rightwards up a shallow chimney. Step right onto a nose and up the wall above to a ledge and peg belay.

2. [9] 12m

   Scramble up left over vegetation to belay in a small corner below a steep crack.

3. [17] 28m

   Ascend the steep clean crack and traverse right at the top below a small overhang. Gain a small ledge and move diagonally up left to a stance and peg belay above a small patch of aloes.

4. [19] 28m

   Climb a loose wall for 6m and step right to the foot of the central groove. Up this using the corner crack to a tiny stance with nut and thread belays at the top.

5. [15] 22m

   Step left to the arete and climb this on good holds to the summit overhang. Traverse 8m left to a block under the roof, swing left on this then up a few meters to the top.

The main feature of the climb is the central groove in the top tier of the buttress. 10m below the centre of the buttress is a large tree and directly above this is a rib undercut by an overhang at 5m. To the left is a shallow scoop.

1. [15] 28m

   Ascend the shallow scoop for 6m then move up rightwards to gain the rib. Make an awkward move (peg runner in place) round the rib then rightwards up a shallow chimney. Step right onto a nose and up the wall above to a ledge and peg belay.

2. [9] 12m

   Scramble up left over vegetation to belay in a small corner below a steep crack.

3. [17] 28m

   Ascend the steep clean crack and traverse right at the top below a small overhang. Gain a small ledge and move diagonally up left to a stance and peg belay above a small patch of aloes.

4. [17] 28m

   Climb 4m up corner crack. Hand-traverse left to edge and continue to traverse crack and chimney, then up to obvious small stance.

5. [15] 22m

   Step left to the arete and climb this on good holds to the summit overhang. Traverse 8m left to a block under the roof, swing left on this then up a few meters to the top.

Start in the descent gully on the left (west) side of the 'Eureka Buttress', opposite a large tree, the trunk of which forks 8m up (the tree is at the foot of the other wall of the gully.)

1. 20m 20 Ascend 6m, traverse 8m right to base of steep crack which runs up slightly overhanging wall. Ascend crack 8m (5 pitons) to small stance on sloping grey/orange slab. Piton belay.

2. 12m 19 Traverse 5m left, either high or low to crack. Ascend crack 4m. (5 pitons) A good move is made from the last piton over the overhang to the bottom of a flat, more easily sloping slab. Ascend 3m up slab to small piton stance.

3. 15m 19 Ascend face and recess above stance to a double stepped square overhang. Climb the overhang at its right end on the line of the recess (2 pitons). A mantle shelf brings one to a comfortable ledge.

4. 12m 8 Ascend diagonally right. Piton stance.

5. 22m 10 Diagonally right up ramp to the point where rock steepens and becomes red again. Stance on comfortable ledge. (Pitches 4 and 5 can be combined if preferred).

6. 18m 13 Up 6m, going initially left, then traverse 5m right above and past stance, ascend to level of traverse beneath overhang. Traverse right to stance in chimney.

7. 18m 10 Up chimney to ledge.

8. 6m 13 Walk left to block under the roof. Swing left and ascend a short steep section through the summit overhang. (As for finish of 'Birdbrain')

The route is to the left of 'Poacher'. It starts in almost the same place as POACHER but climbs up a mild corner approximately 13m left of POACHER'S crux pitch. A wide ledge which starts in the gully ends directly above the corner.

1. 20m 17 Climb onto a 2m buttress to start. Move diagonally left into the corner. Up this to 4m below a roof. There is a smooth slab on the right.

2. 18m 20 Climb diagonally right up the slab to a rail. Above is a 2m bulge. Ascend the bulge on jugs to stance on a ledge.

3. 15m 13 Walk right along the ledge then ascend a few meters to stance below a steep broken face.

4. 20m 20 Climb technically up the face. The stance is directly above the previous stance and is gained by pulling over a bulge to a ledge on the right of the vague corner. There is a large roof 5m above.

5. 20m 20 Traverse left to stance in a corner on easier looking rock.

6. 30m 19 Climb the corner above, exiting left at about 5m. Continue up diagonally left to the top.

The area is on private property; liaise with the MCSA regarding access.

Some of the main Skeerpoort cliffs are off limits to avoid any possible disturbance of the vulture colony. Further, climbers are asked to avoid climbing at Eureka Dome from April to October since Black Eagles are known to nest in the area. However, as this is a South facing crag, it gets very cold in winter which means it’s best to climb there in the summer anyway.

Start 30m left of the descent gully west of 'Eureka Dome' closely follow the rock edge on leaving the descent gully to reach a small buttress with a wide diagonal crack on its right surmounted by a large tree.

1. 30m 13 Climb 4m on grey rock to a pile of loose blocks at the base of a 12m layback type crack slanting 20o right in brown rock. Climb the crack (crux) and scramble up scruffy grade 8 rock to a face capped by brown overhangs.

2. 12m 10 Move up 3m and traverse right 9m to easy rock. Walk off into gully.

Note: A short exercise close to the meet point. Two persons can complete the round trip in less than one hour.

To the left of the 'Aftermath' buttress is a shorter buttress. About halfway along this buttress is an obvious corner. Start beneath the corner.

1. 30m 18 Climb the corner until suspect rock forces one to traverse right 5m. Climb the face to a good ledge.

2. 30m 13 Move diagonally right and up past some bushes to a ledge.

3. 40m 8 Climb non-descript rock to the top.

'Kranskloof' is one of the closest trad climbing areas to Johannesburg. With one of the shortest and flattest walk-ins. It's an open, sunny kloof with a variety of climbs between grades 11-->22.

To the right of 'Steppenwolf' there is a prominent rib. The climb is up the right-hand side of this rib.

1. 40m 15 Climb up right of a tree protruding from a steep face. Move up into a crack running up this face. Climb to a ledge and traverse left to the rib. Climb up the right hand side of the rib until the rock overhangs slightly. Move left around the rib and up to a ledge. Continue up easy-angled rock to the top.

Note: The climb may be broken into two pitches.

The route takes the obvious chimney that runs the full height of the krantz and lies 50m downstream of RHEBOK GULLY.

1. 23m 13 Climb the chimney and continue up the face to the left of the recess. Move to the face on the right side of the recess and climb it until level with the overhang blocking the chimney above. Traverse left to the overhang and pull through to gain a good stance.

2. 20m 11 Continue up the chimney to the top.

50m downstream of Reebok Gully is an obvious chimney running the height of the cliff. Start 5m to the left of this below a very steep white face which leads to a band of overhangs 30m up.

1. 10m 11 Climb the short rock band to a large ledge directly below the steep white face.

2. 35m 17 Climb the steep orange face to the overhang 18m up. Traverse 3m left to the end of the overhang and climb the open book above for 2m before traversing right onto the nose. Continue up to the ledge.

15m upstream from 'Wassail'.

1. 20m 9 Start in a deep recess and climb bearing left to a small corner. Climb up, bear slightly right and then back left to a good stance.

2. 25m 8 Continue straight up keeping right in a wide recess to the top.

Approximately 10m upstream from 'Grotesque'.

1. 30m 17 Start below the right-hand end of an overhang which is situated about 10m above the streambed. Climb to the overhang, move right turning the corner and traversing right (approximately 5m). Climb up to a tree on a ledge.

2. 20m 15 Step down from the ledge and traverse left across a break in the wall. Step around an arete. Climb diagonally left to a good ledge.

3. 30m 13 Climb up and onto the arete continuing up to the top.

60m ropes are recommended, which will allow a single abseil descent from the tree at the top.

Situated opposite the gully that is just above Nettle Gully. The climb follows the prominent V-shaped diagonally left-sloping fault line that runs right of the downstream-facing face.

1. 20m 11 Climb the fault line that runs diagonally left to a tree with gross limbs. Continue up a few meters to a good ledge on the left.

2. 16m 17 Traverse 5m left to the recess and climb it until level with a cubbyhole. Move right to the cubbyhole and continue to a very large ledge.

3. 30m 11 Climb an obvious steep recess above on excellent rock to the top.

Start on the true right-hand wall of the kloof opposite the junction with NETTLE GULLY in a gully ending in steep rock (downstream of 'Grotesque').

1. 40m 7 Start at the base of the grey face and climb/scramble 15m onto a wide ledge. Move right past the gully that forms the base of a prominent chimney with two overhangs. Climb the right-hand wall of the gully to a stance 15m above ledge. (This pitch can be divided into two sections if an intermediate stance is made at the ledge at the base of the gully.)

2. 35m 11 Move left from the stance and diagonally upwards to the base of the chimney and climb to the top.

Start where the perennial spring gushes out of the rock on the true right-hand side of the kloof.

1. 20m 11 Climb diagonally left up an obvious crack / fault, and finally straddle through a small overhang to gain a ledge.

2. 20m 10 Climb 5m up to a corner just right of the prominent rib 15m up. From the corner traverse left round the prominent rib to a ledge with a large tree.

3. 20m 13 Climb the face at the back of the ledge to the top, by keeping to the corner.

Note: Descent down RHEBOK GULLY.

Situated 25m downstream of the spring (at the base of 'Moses') and therefore directly opposite NETTLE GULLY is an obvious downstream facing open book.

1. 25m 13 Climb the open book to a ledge and tree belay.

2. 25m 14 Climb the corner at the back of the ledge past two trees, to reach the base of an obvious corner which is followed to the summit.

The climb takes the prominent red crack / chimney 50m upstream of STAMVRUG GULLY and 50m downstream of the spring.

1. 10m 5 Scramble through the easy rock band to the large ledge at the foot of the prominent red crack / chimney.

2. 20m 19 Climb the crack/chimney right to its top before traversing several meters to the right to a ledge with a large tree.

3. 33m 13 Climb the chimney above exiting on the right side of it and continue up the arete to the top.

Start 50m upstream from STAMVRUG GULLY and right of 'Pad Pad', 20m above the stream level.

1. 45m 10 Climb the sloping grey pillar that has a vertical wall on its left-hand side. The climb steepens towards the top.

Start left of 'Vuil Pheiler'. The climb follows a slab which narrows to one meter at the top.

1. 30m 8 Climb on the slab (easy at first) to a small tree where the rock is red.

2. 15m 11 Continue straight up to the top.

Start just upstream of 'Easy Does It', at a narrow point in the kloof bed beside a large tree.

1. 45m 10 Climb 20m up a clean grey face, following a vertical crack line to an overhang. Climb the break to the left of the overhang onto a small nose (good holds). Continue straight up to the top.

Note: A clean, pleasant climb.

50m downstream of STAMVRUG GULLY a well-defined ridge projects into the kloof. The climb starts up the distinctive 10m high open book just downstream of this ridge.

1. 33m 10 Climb the open book keeping in the corner. Continue up the corner/chimney for a short distance before moving onto the face on the right. Climb the face passing a small stamvrug tree on the left to a stance next to a small pinnacle with a block on it.

2. 33m 11 Bypass the overhang 5m up by climbing the face just to the right of it and continue up 5m to just below a ledge. Traverse a few meters left to a well-defined crack and follow this to the top.

80m downstream of STAMVRUG GULLY, the faces are some distance above the kloof. Bash through the bush and proceed leftwards to a very obvious corner with an easy-angled slab forming the left-hand side. The start is a good tree at the base of the climb.

1. 40m 6 Climb in the corner, moving generally leftwards. Stance just before the corner runs out

2. 25m 6 Continue up the corner for 2m and generally right onto the nose and then up to a good tree.

The climb starts on the right-hand side of the kloof between "triangular overhang" and "vegetated grey face" (see map), directly below a prominent skyline ridge.

1. 30m 15 Climb the small open book to the left of a prominent recess and continue up the crack at the apex of the recess to a stance on a good ledge.

2. 30m 10 Ascend the grey face to a good ledge with a tree directly below the rib.

3. 45m 15 Move left of the small tree and ascend the steep ramp until it is possible to move right onto the ridge. Climb the ridge to the top.

The climb is situated on the right extremity of the 'Baby Face' buttress. Walk 10m right from the start of 'Bouncing Baby' around a bulge to an obvious recess.

1. 25m 13 Climb the corner/recess to a small overhang. Move left onto wall. Climb this to big ledge. Walk right for 3m to tree belay.

2. 25m 14 Move right for 5m past line of trees above. Climb centre of face to top. (The centre section of this face becomes rather thin halfway up and can be avoided by moving right or left.)

The route takes the very steep chimney/recess in the middle of the buttress that lies 45m upstream of the water pipe which hangs down the krantz. Three trees grow out of the chimney in the lower 12m. Scramble 20m up the side of the kloof to the foot of the buttress.

1. 27m 15 Climb the chimney/recess to just above the ripple-marked overhang 17m up. Traverse rightwards across the slab above the overhang then climb diagonally rightwards to a good stance 7m above.

2. 25m 17 Climb the corner above to the overhang 7m up. Hand-traverse right to gain the ledge above (crux). Climb the face above moving to its right edge after a short distance.

The climb goes up the steep face 5m downstream of 'Bouncing Baby'.

1. 35m 15 Start on the left of a 6m high pinnacle. Climb the recess past the right-hand side of the big overhang. Follow the corner to a flaky overhang. Ascend the left-hand face to the overhang above. Traverse right to tree and belay.

2. 20m 13 Traverse 3m left (back) into the recess and climb the recess past the left-hand side of the overhang. Climb the face above to the top.

The climb goes up the left-hand side of the buttress which lies 45m upstream of the water pipe which hangs down the krantz. Start 15m left of 'Bouncing Baby' in a small defined corner.

1. 23m 17 Climb in the corner until the rock bulges and overhangs slightly. Traverse right on a handrail running out to the edge of the corner. Move up a small face on the outside edge 3m and traverse left back into the top of the corner. Continue up to a good ledge and tree belay.

2. 30m 13 Above and slightly to one side of the belay is a break bearing diagonally right in a series of steps. Move up diagonally right over these steps then traverse rightwards to a short chimney. Climb straight up to the top.

The climb goes up the left-hand side of the buttress which lies 45m upstream of the water pipe which hangs down the krantz. Start 15m left of 'Bouncing Baby' in a small defined corner.

1. 23m 17 Climb in the corner until the rock bulges and overhangs slightly. Traverse right on a handrail running out to the edge of the corner. Move up a small face on the outside edge 3m and traverse left back into the top of the corner. Continue up to a good ledge and tree belay.

2. 30m 17 From the belay ledge traverse left 2m meters then move up and right to gain the start of the obvious crack. Ascend directly up the crack to the top.

2 meters to the right of 'Finger Thing' is a vertical crack line that tends right to a small roof at 10 meters

1. 23m 18 Climb the crack and surmount the roof (crux). Continue up the crack to its end, then straight up the face above to the right hand end of a good ledge and tree belay (common with 'Finger Thing')

2. 20m 16 From the right end of the stance, climb up tending right to a ledge at 10m. Traverse right 3m to avoid some dodgy large flakes. Climb vertically up through a chimney recess just left of a predominant nose (which can be seen from ground level) to a good ledge in front of a cubby hole.

3. 10m 14 Climb straight up to the top

The climb goes up the downstream face of the buttress which lies 45m upstream of the small water pipe which runs down the krantz. 2,5m left of 'Finger Thing' is a tree with a crack behind it which leads to a large ledge.

1. 15m 11 Climb the crack behind the tree to a large ledge. Belay about 4m at the back of the ledge at some trees.

2. 35m 14 Move right onto a face, keeping more or less in the middle. All the ledges slope left into a deceptively deep chimney. Avoid climbing too far left. Zigzag up the face keeping more or less to the centre. 5m from the top traverse diagonally right to an arete on the right hand edge of the face. Continue to the top.

The climb starts where the water pipe running down from the top of the krantz reaches the floor, upstream of 'Cadbury Double Thick'. The climb follows the arête just left of this pipe.

1. 45m 14 Start in the cubby hole where the pipe comes down. Move out left onto arête . Follow this arête, keeping on the wall just to the left of it. Climb past two big flakes. Ascent steep crack on good holds to big ledge. The pipe crosses this ledge.

2. 15m 13 Move 2m right from the right end of this ledge. Ascend wall above to top.

Notes:

1. Very little protection on pitch 2. Poor rock?

2. The first pitch is considered by some to be 17.

3. Also, whether it deserves any stars at all is debatable.

Situated between 'Homunlulus' and 'Cadbury Double Thick' .

1. 20m 19 Left of the start of 'Cadbury Double Thick' there is a diagonal traverse line running up to the left. Climb this to a small cubbyhole. Move up and around the edge to the same stance as 'Homunlulus'.

2. 25m 17 Climb the arete and move over to the right side. Continue straight up to the top and belay as for 'Cadbury Double Thick' .

The climb is on the true right-hand side of the kloof, directly opposite the pipe drip, and goes up just to the left of the obvious arete which is bound on its upstream side by a smooth grey wall. The climb goes up the magnificent shiny white wall.

1. 27m 16 Traverse left onto the face and move up past a tree at 12m in a crack to a grassy ledge leading off left. Climb diagonally right to a good stance on the arete.

2. 22m 16 Climb straight up, keeping just to the left of the arete.

Note: To descend, walk down left for 20m to the obvious gully corner, down this short way, then move left, to scramble down the first 15m of pitch 1.

Note: Protection is sparse on pitch 1.

A pleasing climb on clean rock.

The climb takes the steep gully mentioned in the description of the location of 'Golden Goose' (i.e. immediately underneath the second pitch of that route). A large tree marks the start of the route.

1. [13] 45m

   Climb the gully/chimney direct to the large triangular overhang at the top of the crag, passing several large chock stones at 35m.

2. [15] 10m

   From a high position, traverse left under the roof. 3m of hand/elbow traverse complete the climb.

A pleasing climb on clean rock.

The climb takes the steep gully mentioned in the description of the location of 'Golden Goose' (i.e. immediately underneath the second pitch of that route). A large tree marks the start of the route.

1. [13] 45m

   Climb the gully/chimney direct to the large triangular overhang at the top of the crag, passing several large chock stones at 35m.

2. [13] 10m

   From the belay, traverse off right, under the roof, using a large ledge, passing a small tree at the exit.

The routelet takes the overlapping slab 10 meters upstream of 'Golden Goose' . Cairn.

1. 15m 20 Follow the vague recess to below the bulge (about 5 m up). Pull left on small holds to the corner above. Follow this to the big ledge.

Note: Climbing on the crux is bold.

Scramble halfway up the "steep gully blocked by a prominent triangular overhang at the top of the crag", right of 'Golden Goose' . Stance at a ledge and small tree, level with 'Golden Goose' mega-rail.

1. 20m 23 Step left across the gully to gain the ledges at the base of a steep, obtuse-angled dihedral. Climb this to the top.

Has the same start as 'Golden Goose'.

1. 25m 23 Climb the crack as for the second pitch of 'Golden Goose' and continue up to the rail. Move out and left and then up to the top.

The climb is situated on a sharp ridge with overhangs half-way up. The right-hand side of the sharp edge leads to a steep gully which is blocked by a prominent triangular overhang at the top of the crag. It is possible to scramble easily up the gully to the level of the top of the first pitch.

1. [13] 20m

   Climb the face to the shallow open book which begins 5m up. Climb the open book to where the ridge overhangs. Traverse a few meters right to the other side of the ridge and descend slightly to a small stance.

2. [17] 17m

   A smooth steep face leads up on the right-hand side of the ridge. Climb the face for 12m to where it begins to overhang. A good handrail leads off to the left. Hand swing to the left and continue traversing to a very exposed two-man stance on the edge of the ridge.

3. [13] 25m

   Move round the corner onto the exposed face. Traverse 5m left to the corner and follow it up the face to a little overhang. Continue up the face to the top.

The climb is situated on a sharp ridge with overhangs half-way up. The right-hand side of the sharp edge leads to a steep gully which is blocked by a prominent triangular overhang at the top of the crag. It is possible to scramble easily up the gully to the level of the top of the first pitch.

1. [13] 20m

   Climb the face to the shallow open book which begins 5m up. Climb the open book to where the ridge overhangs. Traverse a few meters right to the other side of the ridge and descend slightly to a small stance.

2. [17] 17m

   A smooth steep face leads up on the right-hand side of the ridge. Climb the face for 12m to where it begins to overhang. A good handrail leads off to the left. Hand swing to the left and continue traversing to a very exposed two-man stance on the edge of the ridge.

3. [16] XXm

   Instead of moving up right-hand side of slab, traverse left above roof and move up thin slab.

Climbs the face to the left of 'Golden Goose' .

1. 15m 19 Climb a vague groove up the face between FUM and 'Golden Goose' to a narrow ledge (sparse gear).

2. 30m 26 Climb up on the left and then move right onto the face. Climb past a bolt on side-pulls and under-clings to the roof (peg). Pull through and continue up the corner above to a tree.

The climb goes up the downstream face of the sharp-edged ridge taken by 'Golden Goose' . The climb finishes through the broken pointed overhangs at the top of the krantz.

1. 30m 17 The climb starts with a mantelshelf 5m to the right of the back of the gully. Continue up the face to the left of the small but distinct corner until the rock steepens and changes colour to orange. Continue up the rounded rib with a vertical crack in it for a few meters until it is possible to make an awkward traverse a few meters right to gain the beginning of the crack which leads through the overhangs above. A small tree grows out of the crack a few meters above. Climb the crack to the top. It is possible to avoid the final steep few meters of the crack by traversing left across a sloping slab then up.

Located between 'Fo' and 'Fum'.

1. 35m 14 Climb the crack to the right of FOE to a tree. Follow the wall above into a recess and pull into the V-groove above. Ascend the right-hand groove to the top.

The right crack line of the two mentioned in 'Fie' is climbed. This crack lies in the corner between the back of the short gully and the downstream side of the short gully.

1. 20m 11 Ascend the crack line. Good Climbing.

Just below the arete described in 'Golden Goose' there is a short gully. Two crack lines go up the face on the downstream side of the gully. This route generally follows the left-hand crack line.

1. 25m 13 Climb the centre of the rib just to the left of the left crack until level with a tree on the face on the left. Move right to the crack and follow this to the top. Very good climbing.

This route is situated on the left-hand wall of the large recess and to the left of the routes 'Fee', 'Fie', 'Fo' and 'Fum'. Scramble up about 6m to an obvious roof. The route takes the right-hand crack of a dual crack system which runs through the roof. The crux is getting past the roof, but good protection can be placed at the lip.

1. 20m 20 Hand-jam strenuously through the roof and ascend for about 3m. Traverse left for about 4m to the corner. Move around the corner onto an exposed face, then diagonally left up the face to a cubby hole stance.

The climb goes up the corner 5m downstream of the gully where 'Fie', 'Fo' and 'Fum' begin.

1. 17m 8 Climb the corner to the comfortable ledge below the large overhang on the right (gully) side of the buttress.

2. 20m 11 Climb the face on the right of the roof and traverse left to a big tree. Continue diagonally left to a big flake on the corner of the buttress. Surmount this and continue up parallel cracks to the top.

This route starts on the front of the low buttress on the left of 'Fee', 'Fie', 'Fo' and 'Fum'

1. 25m 12 Climb the recess to the left of the centre of the buttress to a good ledge (8m) (or climb the front of the buttress to the same ledge (13)). Continue straight up the obvious line to a stance below a left-slanting diagonal crack.

2. 17m 10 Follow the line of the crack to the top of the buttress.

Start about 20m downstream of the 'Fee', 'Fie', 'Fo' and 'Fum' buttress in an open book recess with a large tree nearby.

1. 20m 13 Climb up the open book to a ledge with a tree on it. Continue climbing up the corner on the left of the ledge to a wide crack. Follow the crack up to the top of a small pillar. Move right using a mantelshelf move to the ledge.

2. 20m 13 Move up the crack system behind the ledge to a tree. Climb the face behind the tree, then continue up easier ground to a broad ledge. Scramble to the top.

This climb starts about 3m to the right, and upstream of, 'Purple Rain' where the cliff takes a right angle turn. The climb starts on the nose just downstream of a prominent tree.

1. 15m 13 Climb up the arete over a series of ledges, until you reach a large block to the right. Pass a tree on the left and follow the easy recess up to a comfortable ledge.

2. 15m 15 Climb up the crack system above the ledge moving slightly left at the top to a good ledge. Scramble off rightwards.

This climb starts about 50m upstream of 'Late Breeze' on the left-hand side of a prominent overhang.

1. 30m 19 Climb the ridge to the right of the prominent overhang. Keeping on the ridge move up until a traverse up left past a crack system is made into the prominent open book with large tree in It. Climb the open book past the tree up to the overhang with the crack running through it. Surmount the overhang (crux) and continue up to a good ledge.

2. 30m 17 Climb up the crack passing through the bulging face directly behind the ledge. Continue up to a large ledge with a crack at its rear. Climb this crack to a bush, continue up the recess above.

This climb is the direct start to 'Purple Rain'. It takes the impressive overhanging recess with the large tree half way up to an overhang, 25m upstream and on the same side of the kloof as 'Late Breeze'.

1. 18m 20 Climb up a short slab to the overhang. Move through the overhangs using 3 fixed pegs for protection. Continue up the open book above to belay in the tree.

2. 18m 18 Climb up the open book to a crack in the overhang. Move through the overhang to a ledge.

3. 30m 17 Moving slightly left on the ledge, climb the crack through the bulge onto a large ledge. Move right to the arete and climb this to the top.

Notes:

1. Pitch 2 and the first part of pitch 3 are shared with 'Purple Rain'.

2. Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined.

3. Before he made the Statue of Liberty disappear, David Copperfield first practiced (very successfully) on the pegs on this route.

This climb is situated just downstream from 'Brothers in Arms' on a buttress just as you come out of the 'Brothers in Arms' enclave.

1. 25m 20 Climb up the middle of the face (sparse protection) with the crux getting off the ground. Continue up the face avoiding a ledge on the right arete. Reach the ledge with a tree and continue up the dihedral to a small overhang. Exit to the left and scramble to a ledge.

2. 15m 10 Climb back to the left of the large overhang. Traverse right onto the lip and climb the arete to a large ledge (Camp Six).

3. 15m 17 Traverse left from the stance. Move up to a short open book below the overhang. Continue up to an overhang. Move left through the overhang and follow the face to the top (good exposure).

Notes:

1. The first pitch provides good climbing with limited protection.

2. The stance on top of pitch 2 is very similar to Camp 6 on the nose of El Capitan, Yosemite.

3. A 3 stars climb can be created by climbing the first pitch of 'More Goofy Than Mickey Mouse' and then finishing up pitches 2 & 3 of 'Charge Of The Light Brigade' .

This climb is situated just downstream from 'Brothers in Arms' on a buttress just as you come out of the 'Brothers in Arms' enclave.

1. 25m 20 Climb up the middle of the face (sparse protection) with the crux getting off the ground. Continue up the face avoiding a ledge on the right arete. Reach the ledge with a tree and continue up the dihedral to a small overhang. Exit to the left and scramble to a ledge. 40m 17 Instead of moving right at the overhang, climb straight up the face past an overlap to a ledge. Move left into a downstream facing open book. Climb this, moving out left near top past a tree then up short face to top of crag.

This climb starts 35m upstream of 'Late Breeze' (5m upstream of 'Sugar Man') in a prominent recess.

1. 25m 12 Climb the recess up a series of steps to a short dual crack system. The right crack has a small nettle bush in it. Climb the left crack to a small ledge. Continue up the recess to where the crack steepens. By using either hand holds on the sides of the crack, or jams in the crack, ascend to a good ledge.

This climb starts about 30m upstream of 'Late Breeze' in a shallow open book with a crack running up it (Note - a crack system 1 to 2 m upstream does not constitute the climb).

1. 25m 17 Climb the shallow open book to a small ledge passing a wedged block (crux). Continue up the crack system directly below a small overhang. An attractive layback crack slightly to the right is a feature of the upper parts of the crack system. Exit left to avoid the overhang onto a good ledge with tree belay. Scramble up the easy rock to the top of the kloof.

This climb is situated about 10m upstream of 'Late Breeze' and about 3m downstream of 'Sugar Man'. (The next crack downstream from 'Sugar Man'.)

1. 25m 16 Ascend the crack 3m to the first ledge (small tree). Continue up easier ground to a small ledge and tree. Ascend the finger crack past another small tree onto a good ledge. Moving leftwards 1 to 2m, climb the face to the top.

Note: A pleasant climb, well protected and on good rock.

This climb ascends a fine crack on the wall just upstream of 'Late Breeze' , between the arete ('Dingbats Himalayan Epic') and 'Cold Fact'.

1. 30m 20 Ascend the steep face to a good ledge (19 5m) (small wire protection). Continue up easier ground to a ledge and small tree just 1 to 2m left of a larger tree. Climb the steep face above (crux). Follow easier rock to a large ledge and belay.

Note: Technically stimulating moves on good rock.

This climb ascends the arete just upstream of 'Late Breeze' .

1. 30m 15 Starting just upstream of 'Late Breeze' , climb the arete.

Notes:

1. A pleasant climb on good rock but protection sparse lower down.

The route lies on the first big buttress upstream of the grey grassy slabs. The route starts in the obvious polished black corner (the second corner from the downstream side of the buttress).

1. [15] 25m

   Climb the open book to a tree belay on the large ledge.

2. [13] 20m

   Climb the crack system up the buttress slightly left of the stance either breaking left to reach the tree belay or continuing up the broken rock to reach a stance on the perched block on top.

Start directly below slab 2m to left of the start of 'Late Breeze' .

1. 40m 22 Move up to the start of the slab where a horizontal crack is encountered, Continue up 4m (20) to another resting spot. (This section is shared with 'Punchline') Then continue straight up avoiding the arete to the hollow block. Move up further rightwards to a jug handhold at the start of the fine horizontal crack. Traverse right 4m (across slab) to the base of the prominent crack line (crux). Climb this to the top exiting slightly left to a ledge and tree belay.

2. 15m 17 Climb directly above the stance to the base of an overhang, pull through the overhang (runner in crack to left). Continue up to the top of the block.

Note: There are various ways to cross from the left side of the slab to the right: a. Hands about 2m below the rail 21/22. b. Hands about 4m below the rail 20. It makes sense to place the nut for the original traverse before down climbing to this height. c. Climb up until hands are about 2-3m above the rail, then traverse right 21. The grades are somewhat reach dependent.

Ascends the fine slab that forms the left-hand side of the 'Late Breeze' corner. Start 3m left of 'Late Breeze'.

1. 35m 20 Ascend a leftward-leaning crack system until it is possible to step right on to the slab proper, above a small overlap. Protected by friends in the horizontal crack, make hard moves to a good resting ledge. Continue up in the same line, following a shallow recess 2m from the arete, until level with a hollow-sounding jammed block. From here traverse left on to the arete (crux of 'Pick Of Punch') and climb the last few meters of that route.

Take the arete some 5m downstream of 'Late Breeze'.

1. 23m 15 Climb the buttress, keeping to the crest, to a ledge with blocks. (There are easier variations to the left.)

2. 23m 17 Climb the left side of the crest for 5m, move awkwardly to the right side of the crest and continue up to a large ledge. A further 7m of climbing leads to the top.

The route takes a very shallow open book to begin. It starts 5m upstream of 'Haak-en Steek' and climbs the centre of the face until gradually forced left by the roof to join 'Haak-en Steek' above the tree - Cairn.

1. 30m 17 Start at the base of the open book. Tricky and thin to start. Climb the steps above until the roof is encountered. Take a stance just above the tree. The crux is to mantle shelf up to the stance.

2. 15m 9 Finish up the groove as for 'Haak-en Steek'. Take a comfortable stance on top.

Note: Protection is thin at start, adequate thereafter.

The route is on the first buttress upstream of the grassy broken grey slabs, on the right side of the kloof. The route follows the first obvious corner on the left-hand side of the buttress (downstream side).

1. [9] 45m Climb in the corner or just to the right of it. The pitch may be conveniently split.

Begin just left of 'Haak-en Steek'. From the second grey grassy sloping slab walk onto the broad ledge on the right about 15m above the stream.

1. 20m 7 Move up 1 m, traverse to the right 2 or 3m to a blunt nose. Climb up this nose 11 m, move slightly left on broad ledge and up another 4m onto the big ledge.

2. 10m 7 Climb over the branches of a stamvrug tree to the right into a chimney which is climbed for 5m, and emerge right onto a good ledge.

3. 15m 7 Start at the right end of a ledge climbing up over two blocks. Move left towards the chimney and climb up the blocks to the top.

Starts approximately 20m downstream of 'Late Breeze'. A bolt about 8m up marks the face that is climbed. The climb starts at the base of the face to the left of the corner with a tree in it. 'Sounds Of Silence' ascends the crack around the corner on the left.

1. 23m 21 Climb directly up to the bolt. Continue past the bolt up the face, then move left onto the arete to a small ledge. Climb the short steep arete to the large ledge shared with 'Sounds Of Silence'.

2. 20m 17 Move to the right past a tree. Climb the arete and face to the top of the crag.

This route starts about 50m downstream of the start of 'The Thread'. It ascends the crack around the corner on the left of 'Who Was That Masked Man'. To reach the start, climb a large boulder to the flat, sloping ledge at the bottom of the descent ramp on the true right of the kloof.

1. 30m 20 Climb the vague crack line for 7m and then move slightly left. Continue up past a number of small ledges to a broad ledge with tree belay.

2. 30m 19 Move up and left to an open book. Climb the open book to easier rock. Continue up the easy face to the top of crag.

The climb starts at a large tree at a large rock platform at the foot of the buttress immediately upstream of the scramble descent route. It is a very direct route, straight up the face, 16m to the left of the corner, starting at a cairn.

1. 18m 8 Climb directly in line with the small tree on a small ledge, do a layback and mantelshelf move, and belay on a tree in a recess on a large, wide ledge.

2. 14m 10 Climb 3m up to a large ledge, and then 7m up a wide chimney, the top of which is very smooth and strenuous.

3. 21m 8 Traverse 10m to a corner on the right, initially off-balance, then climb up a steep corner on good holds.

Note: A very pleasant and direct route on good rock.

This climb ascends the steep face situated on the left after one has descended the ramp descent (steep grassy sloping slabs). The start is found about 4m to the right of the climb 'The Serpent' and about 10m downstream of 'Recuperation'.

1. 25m 20 Climb directly up to the bulge where a fixed piton protects the crux. Continue up a direct line to a tree belay.

2. 20m 20 Move up to a higher ledge. Continue up the face (thin) to beneath the obvious overhang. Pull through the overhang (crux). Climb easier rock to the top.

This climb starts downstream of 'Pick Of Punch' and ascends a recess (open book) up a face on the left side as one descends the ramp descent route with the large overhang near the top.

1. 25m 15 Climb the open book to a small ledge on the left. Continue up the face to a large ledge.

2. 15m 16 Climb the face above the stance, first moving slightly left then tending right near the top.

Note: The name of the route is derived from a large snake seen at the base of the climb.

Starts to the right of 'Icepig' i.e. at the base of the ramp with the large overhang.

1. 10m 13 Traverse right from the ramp to a good ledge. Climb the corner with the crack on the left side of the ledge to a broad ledge. (Alternatively - climb the easier crack/chimney around the corner to the right, however, it is loose.)

2. 20m 12 Move along the ledge to the base of the chimney. Climb the face and chimney to the top of the crag.

Note: Good climb for beginners.

Ascends the face just to the right (looking up) of the large overhang at the top of the ramp descent gully on the true right of the kloof.

1. [16] 35m Traverse right from the ramp to the base of the face onto a ledge with a crack at its rear. Climb up the face moving slightly right to the base of a dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a tree. Move left onto a slab and continue to the top of the crag, bypassing an overhang.

Just upstream of 'Mark The Ripples' is a short buttress.

1. 15m 19 Start on the downstream facing side of the buttress. Climb a crack system up to a large sloping ledge.

1. 25m 14 Climb the face and then the crack left of 'Biliary Kills'.

Start just to the right of 'Snack' where there is a small red-brown corner about 10m above the kloof floor with a roof above it.

1. 30m 11 Climb the face 4m right of 'Snack'. Continue up in the corner, move over the overhang and traverse right onto a slab. Continue straight up the slab and the wall above to the top.

Start 10m upstream from 'Mark The Ripples' where there is a small recess and crack running up to some overhangs.

1. 35m 13 Climb the crack to a slab and move left to a flake leaning against the face. Climb this and step around right below a large overhang and move up slightly and traverse diagonally up right under the overhang (tree growing from crack). Turn the overhang at the extreme right-hand end. Continue up the crack and climb the fault line to the top.

The climb starts 5m right of 'Mark The Ripples' ascending the face and then the overhang mentioned under 'Snack'.

1. 20m 15 Climb the face to the left of the flake leaning against the face. Belay at the flake.

2. 30m 17 Climb up the flake and open book passing a small tree to gain the base of the overhang. Exit left and climb the easier rock to top.

Start on the true right-hand side of the kloof, opposite 'Ripple Mark'. The climb begins on a polished sloping black slab at ground level and initially goes up a smooth black corner which overhangs 30m up.

1. 25m 11 Climb a recess with some cracks higher up to a small stance. (At the stance be careful of large loose blocks, particularly if used as a belay point.)

2. 20m 9 Traverse diagonally left 20m to a large platform stance above a tree.

3. 25m 12 Climb a clean pleasant face to the top, with a steeper grassy portion at the finish (crux).

Start on the true right-hand side of the kloof, opposite 'Ripple Mark'. The climb begins on a polished sloping black slab at ground level and initially goes up a smooth black corner which overhangs 30m up.

1. 25m 11 Climb a recess with some cracks higher up to a small stance. (At the stance be careful of large loose blocks, particularly if used as a belay point.)

2. 20m 9 Traverse diagonally left 20m to a large platform stance above a tree.

3. 25m 15 Ascend the recess on the left face above via a small tree to the overhang. Surmount the overhang on its right. Follow the recess to top.

The route starts immediately left of 'Mark The Ripples', passing through the square-cut overhang above.

1. 18m 15 Ascend the steep, brown, fluted rock immediately left of the start of 'Mark The Ripples'. (Small friends for protection.) Bridge up until able to reach a side-pull then move up to the ledge above.

2. 35m 19 Climb the crack system to below the roof, where good protection may be arranged. Exit through the crack on the upstream side by layback/jamming to gain easier ground above.

Variation: From beneath the roof it is possible to exit on the downstream side. Using a small foothold on the nose, move left onto easier ground.

The route starts immediately left of 'Mark The Ripples', passing through the square-cut overhang above.

1. 18m 15 Ascend the steep, brown, fluted rock immediately left of the start of 'Mark The Ripples'. (Small friends for protection.) Bridge up until able to reach a side-pull then move up to the ledge above.

2. 35m 19 Climb the crack system to below the roof, where good protection may be arranged. Exit through the crack on the upstream side by layback/jamming to gain easier ground above. Variation: From beneath the roof it is possible to exit on the downstream side. Using a small foothold on the nose, move left onto easier ground.

Left of 'Appie Doctor', halfway up the crag a V-shaped groove may be seen. The route ascends the crack below this to gain the groove. Begin 5m right of 'Five Roses' (tiny cave at bed level.

1. 20m 15 Ascend the open book for 10m, move left onto face and up to ledge below crack.

2. 20m 18 Climb the crack to gain the base of the V-groove. Ascend the groove to the top.

From the meeting spot, walk about 100m upstream until a break in the pipe is reached, just below 'Zimbabwe Face'. 20m above this, on the true right, there is a steep gully up which one can scramble to reach the top. Just upstream of this again, there is a small amphitheatre, with a small cave at ground level. Scramble up 10m to the start of the open slabs. In the corner on the right, there is a continuously overhanging corner. Left of the corner, there is a slightly on-angle slab, with two steps of roofs. The route takes the obvious crack line through these roofs.

1. 30m A1 There is a convenient ledge to belay from, belay in the crack on the right-hand end of the ledge, but start climbing 3m left of this. Easy nutting and solid hooking up the slab, until a sketchy free move finds one on a narrow, glassy, sloping foot-ledge just below the first roof. A solid cam in the lip, followed by a few hook moves brings one to the second roof. An awkward move onto a broad ledge is the end of the aiding, and easy free follows straight up to a huge slab-ledge, with superb pro.

2. 25m 14 Follow the slab above the ledge to the trees and blocks at the top.

Notes:

1. Descend by abseiling the second pitch, then scrambling easily left into the gully mentioned earlier, and thence to the bottom.

2. A short, fat "universal" or "stake" piton would be useful on the initial slab on the first pitch to provide protection for the hook moves.

The route starts at the tiny cave at bed level marked on the map just downstream of 'Appie Doctor', taking a line from the cave to the top of the overhang above.

1. 35m 19 From the cave ascend easily to below a shallow open book. Climb the open book until able to move right awkwardly onto a small sloping ledge. Continue up the face to a ledge below a slanting dihedral.

2. 35m 17 From the ledge move right (1m) and then ascend the arete. Climb awkwardly at first to gain a shallow open book. Ascend this until directly below the overhanging crack. Pull through the overhang on excellent jams to the top.

Note: It is possible to omit the final overhang by traversing left, where the grade of the pitch falls to 15.

This climb starts on the true right on the upstream side of the gully leading up to the climb 'One For The Pot'.

1. 40m 17 Climb to the base of short buttress. Climb the break to sloping slab (crux). Continue up the slab to a sloping ledge. Mantelshelf onto ledge and climb face above to top of crag.

This climb takes the break which starts at the top of a short gully on the true right, just upstream of SOFTY. Scramble up the gully past slab on the left {'Stoners Delight') and buttress on right with crack in it ('Carebear Surprise') to its highest point. It starts higher than the surrounding climbs.

1. 40m 15 Climb up to the first overhang. Continue up easy rock to open book. Continue up, moving left to top of crag.

This climb ascends the face and corner on the gully leading up to the climb 'One For The Pot'. It is just upstream of 'Softy'.

1. 30m 13 Start on the right hand side of the slab. Move onto slab and across it to the upstream facing corner. Ascend corner to a point where one can climb a short recess on the left hand wall. Climb recess to ledge. Continue moving left and up to top of crag.

This climb starts right of 'Softy'.

1. 30m 16 Climb the face to start, then the recess to top of crag.

This climb starts almost opposite 'Gunsight' in the centre of a buttress where a root (about 8cm in diameter) from a tree half way up the face passes into the ground.

1. 23m 18 Climb the recess with the root in it until the tree lies to ones left. Make an awkward move rightwards to below an overhang with a crack through it. Climb the overhang (crux) to a good ledge.

2. 15m 13 Moving slightly left above the ledge climb the recess and crack system to the top.

Note: The crux on pitch 1 can be avoided by traversing right lower down and climbing easier rock to the ledge.

This climb is situated on the buttress just upstream of the attractive face with KB4 and ABSENTIA on it. The climb follows the downstream arete with a large tree projecting out from the base of the climb. A prominent gully with a cave recess is found just downstream of the climb.

1. 30m 19 Climb the short face with roots to the right. Follow the open book moving right when the face steepens, continue up to a small overhang. Move left and up to a block. Continue up the arete using lugs (layback holds) until another small overhang is reached. Move left again and pull through on good holds. Continue up to small ledge.

2. 12m 13 Move up to the rail, then leftward to a small stance, and then traverse right to the crack system. Follow this to top.

Note: A good clean enjoyable route.

This climb is situated on the buttress just upstream of the attractive face with KB4 and ABSENTIA on it. The climb follows the downstream arete with a large tree projecting out from the base of the climb. A prominent gully with a cave recess is found just downstream of the climb.

1. 30m 19 Climb the short face with roots to the right. Follow the open book moving right when the face steepens, continue up to a small overhang. Move left and up to a block. Continue up the arete using lugs (layback holds) until another small overhang is reached. Move left again and pull through on good holds. Continue up to small ledge.

2. 21 Move up to the rail, then leftward to a small stance. After the small ledge, instead of moving right, move left to a short face and overlap. Climb this into a short break up to a ledge.