Ascensiones de Tarali Valent

22 shots. 13:25,T-27.1,H-61.5,DP-19.1. Fr. slightly greasy but crux crimp was better today than the last time.

13:54,T-26.9,H-55.8,DP-17.4. Crux crimp greasy. Pinged off crux crimp. Bumped 3 times to try and get a better grip of it. Also pinged off 2 other holds lower down. Above crux friction was veryordinary. Single biner on crux was ok to clip.

1138, T-24.1,H-69.0,DP-18.1. Slightly greasy on crux crimp. Didn't affect shot. Losing skin. Low R/F slipped during 3rd crux. NB: Using original high R/F on ramp but using sloper to get height for UPC. Much easier to rest and chalk for a moment before measly crimp.

1324, T-25.6,H-70.6,DP-19.9. Acceptably greasy. Highpoint!! Pumped off post crux clipping sloper after clipping draw. May need to skip this clip....

1124 T-27.1, H-53, DP-16.7. Fr. def isn't 'bad' but could be better. Maybe I'm getting use to it. Undercling pinch crimp. Forgot to move R/F up the ramp but still managed to get the UPC. NB: Using same footer from micro rest to get UPC. Rest of sequence remains unchanged. Is this how everybody's hard redpoints go. Constant refinement? Sorry for the load of irrelavant info. It's for future use.

1329 T-30.8, H-33.3 DP-12.8. Fr. improved. Crux crimp felt a tad greasy but still usable. Crux crimp. Too stretched once I had the hold. Something to do with the chalking up leaves me low. Rather pedantic really... NB R/F higher up ramp then L/F higher to crimp. End result is the 'glory' sloper (yep it's bad) can be held wih less effort.

T-26.2, H-37.4, DP-10.5 2nd crux high R/H gaston. NB: lower RF. Much easier moving up now. Final crux getting harder as temps keep rising.

T-28.1, H-35.5, DP-11.4 Final crux. Pinchy crimpy hold. NB: another move before going up for pinchy crimp. Allows for a much needed chalk up and brief shake. Might go next shot or may never get done. Perhaps some cooler weather will/would make a difference. .

T- 27 DP- 13.5 H- 43.3 Move before pinchy, crimpy undercling thing. Somehow twisted into an egypitian and was then a long from the hold.

T- 27 DP- 13.5 H- 43.3 or similar. Struggled with moving legs/feet up high to ramp. Perhaps the running is tightening things up a little?

Undercling crimp. Highpoint. Tweaked beta. Didn't feel rested enough from warm-up. DP:12 T:24

Crimp crux. Felt strong but was too low once I got the crimp. Pulled on (after a good rest) and went to the anchors. First single hang. It's getting warm here.

Crappy undercling. Re-worked feet. Much easier moving up now. Dp- 14.5 T- 23.5. The crux crimp has to have the water squeezed out off it.

Undercling pinch. Highpoint. Played around with the final crux moves and it comes down to the harder you can hold on the less technique you need. But you need to hold on tight to use the technique...

I felt significanlty stronger than the last session on this. Got all the moves on the first try BTB. 2nd shot I was out of juice and tired. Time for some rest. 2 shots

Top rope- 4 distinct cruxes. Each harder than the next. 3 of the 4 cruxes sorted. Unable to do any of the moves on the last crux. Pulled through and did last moves to anchors.

TR- fell at 2nd crux. Higher on final crux but not all sorted.

TR- Fell at 2nd crux. All moves sorted on final crux.

TR- Fell at 2nd crux. Final crux sequence completed. Very tic tacky and tenious. Fingery.

Top rope- 4 distinct crux. Each harder than the next. 3 of the 4 cruxes sorted. Unable to do any of the moves on the last crux. Pulled through and did last moves to anchors.

TR- Fell on 2nd crux. DId moves quickly then started on final crux sequence. Made progress but still haven't climbed through the final crux completely.