Ascensiones en Eastern California como Hang dog

Fell once in a crack.

As primarily a sport climber, I managed (TR-onsighted) the start but got extremely pumped in the crack section above (or couldn't get rid of the pump that the start gave me). This route might be nice to climb if you have good crack technique and also if you are less tired than we were at the end of a long day in JTree. Took me three hangs to get to the top.

I found the start hard to protect -- yes, the pods are there, but the individual moves are like a V2/V3 boulder problem, and it would be tough to plug in gear at that moment. Decking potential for sure.

Did two tries in toprope for checking out the beta after not getting to the top in lead. Very nice route. Beta for reference (in German) :

Über der dritten Exe an guten Griff rechts doppeln, links hochstehen auf linken schwarzen tritt, rechts höher stehen und links an guten Griff ziehen (schmale Kante). Weiter oben an Riss links rausstehen auf reibung, an Riss höher arbeitenz Dann rechts auf guten Griff stehen. Rechts hochgreifen in sehr kleinen teil Des rises, links höher stehen auf reibung und rechts in guten Griff , der ist auch ein untergriff. Links dazu und Dann mit rechts hochstehen auf fläche großen tritt. Rechts weiter an kleineren Griff Dann links hand in untergriff klemmen, links und rechts hochstehen, links ist der tritt weiß und leicht rausgebrochen, rechts schwarz und Klein. Rechts kreuzen an Henkel. Dann linken fuß in den Riss Stellen, rechts leicht auf reibung toe hooken und links an guten Henkel. Links weit hochstehen auf kleinen weißen tritt Dann mit rechts weit hochgreifen an schlechte Leiste. Rechten fuß auf kleine abgebrochene weiße Leiste. Von unten sieht man dass der tritt zwischen zwei schwarzen teilen der wand ist. Linker fuß auf seitlichen schwarzen tritt. Linke hand in Seitgriff. Rechter fuß etwas neben den linken, linker fuß hoch auf linken guten Griff von vorher. rechts hochgreifen an guten clip Griff. Dann überkreuz an den Griff kurz drüber ziehen, rechte hand dazu. Links auf den rechten richtig guten tritt, rechts etwas höher auf kleinen schwarzen tritt, leicht eingedreht. Dann rechts hoch an leiste. Links etwas hochstehen und mit links kurz Zwischengreifen an kleine schlechte leiste, Dann verlängern an gute.

First did one try in toprope. Before leading attempt. Beta for reference (in German): Unten an Riss, linke hand in Seitgriff weit links. Rechte hand an mittigen Seitgriff auf schulter nehmen. Dann fuß auf den tritt unter gutem Seitgriff (man könnte da auch hooken).

An schlüsselstelle rechten fuß rechts rausstellen, linken fuß mittig, Dann eingedreht an rechte Leiste mit links hochgreifen. Dann rechts an rechte angechalkte seitleiste. Dann links etwas weiter hochstehen auf rechter seite und rechts weit hoch auf tritt rechts außen. Dann links hoch auf tritt weit links außen und rechts an guten Griff verlängern (langsam hochtasten und Dann festhalten mit daumen oben) . Über schlüsselstelle rechts in seitleiste Dann gut stehen mittig und links in guten Seitgriff mit links hochgreifen. Dann rechts nach oben verlängern in besseren Seitgriff.

Very nice route. Want to try again if I am ever back in Joshua tree. The first bolt is quite high, but can be protected with nuts in the small finger crack below. Still I was super scared before reaching first bolt, since I was close to falling before clipping. there is a good ledge/jug for clipping, but only one foothold on the right (very high up).

First bolt is very high and also it is not easy until the first bolt, would not do it in lead. Very tiny crimps on crux moves. Did not do one move above the belly of the first quickdraw, hard and too painful for fingers.

Fingers still hurt and my beta probably isn't optimal, one move is definitely far and doesn't succeed every time.

The first bolt is quite high, and it's also already quite difficult - fortunately, there were some other bolts on the left, which allowed me to try the first part with the first bolt clipped already (this is actually a well-protected sport route apart from the first bolt). Overhanging endurance route on mostly good holds. Climbed it with two rests in the second go, the first of which was unnecessary (took the wrong hold). The fingers still hurt quite a bit from yesterday and we only had 2 hours, so I couldn't do more than 2 tries. Definitely doable within a few more tries.

A bit scary to get to the first bolt (this is actually a sport route), before which I could only place a small cam relatively low. The crux is to get from the first to the second bolt on small and very sharp edges. In the end, I went to the good sidepull with the left and matched it with the right, holding the tension to avoid turning out of the wall. On the first try, leading the route, I skipped some moves and focused on getting up somehow. In the second toprope attempt, I had to rest in three places: twice because my fingers hurt so much from the sharp edges and once to figure out the last part of the crux.

One try to check all the moves, which were all doable. However, to put them together is another story, this would probably have been a week-long project. A lot of endurance on small holds necessary. The moves were quite cool. The rock was glued in some places, one hold was even glued back on after having come off at some point.

Nice, but the crux of the route I could only climb in two parts. There is an arrete with several bad holds and a good foothold on the right where you can jam your right foot. The left foot needs to be very close to the right. Then with right hand to a crimp next to the arrete. And into a jug. Then right foot to higher shitty foothold. Left foot somewhere on the left and and left hand to crimp an sloper.

Nice but weird arrete climbing. Happy to have climbed with the rope from the top.

Really nice arête and slab climb with few features in some places. It took me a few tries to figure out the crux. Strange climbing, I felt insecure in many places.

Nice, but feels harder than 5.10b. Very hard slab move at the bottom. Before first bolt you need to be brave. Built first traditional anchor at the top

Could not do the one move when going from last good hold of the flake to the crack. The move exactly was matching the right hand into the crack. Did not try very long though. For next time, try switching feet first and jamming left hand more so that I am already turned in when matching right hand.

Made me question everything in life. Jeez, this was well and truly beyond my capabilities.

Fell heaps on Pope's. The direct exit was heinous. The movement on the under cling to gain the lip was super cool.

The OW portion of this one hurt me in my soul. First OW experience for me and it was TOUGH. Just barely scraped up, grabbing the #6 once to advance.

Thought this was Live at Leeds. In dark, with headlamps. Slab had no holds, just nubs that break off.

Why oh why did i leave it till my last day. So much fun. My onsight ended fairly quickly and then i did it with two hangs on TR. A truly brilliant rock climb and one I will no doubt come back for. Bring on Cold Trip 2020!! (x3)

Lead and fall at top.

Fell on the onsight at the last move poooo

Fell twice at around the first quickdraw. I should have pushed through could have maybe flashed it.

If this is the climb I think it is then it is 12a not 11d.

Figuring out climb to lead next time.

This is really fucking cool and really fucking hard. Some heinous crack bouldering after the eponymous baby apes move makes for quite the sandbag i think. Prith added a direct start which was cool.

Another catastrophic 12a sandbag, and with a very dangerous runout through the crux. Super funky moves though which require some good technique as much as some pull down. Worthy of being resurrected with a rebolt.

Probably the hardest 12a I have ever tried, it definitely the hardest move I have ever done on a 12a. I rapped over it to equip it and then tried to flash it but came up short on the crux. Figured out the move on top rope afterwards.I think it might be easier if you’re tall but at least 5.14 Fann validated my struggle.

Afterwards I got to go back to camp and hear that Prith had sent Stingray which is one of the coolest things ever. So psyched!!

Arghhh! Couldn’t pull it together. Not enough skin, not enough fitness, too much drive to climb other things. I shall return for you!