Routes as trad in Yamanashi

Translates as "Eagle" Multi Pitch Climb

Multi Pitch Climb

Short and steep double crack system. Dry in light rain.

Multi Pitch Climb

Translates as "Before winter comes"

Translates as "Long farewell"

Translates as "Wind chime"

Multi Pitch Climb

Translates as "Illusion of harmony"

なきっつら

(Feel free to add the Japanese name if you know it. I am doing all this without consulting the guidebook).

Start at a corner 20m left of the left edge of the cave.

1. Corner to a small roof, then wander left across cracked face, heading for a big tree. This tree often has slings for the rap descent, but better spots to anchor further back on ledge.

2. The obvious chimney above, protection in cracks and some chockstones. Slightly tricky offwidth exit to gain a large ledge.

3. The money pitch. Overhanging crack for a few metres (tree is probably in, it's trad), then the angle decreases but a variety of crack sizes await in the long corner above. Endurance required.

4. Go up right corner/slab for 5m, horizontally right for a few metres then downclimb, to reestablish an anchor.

5. Final short offwidth to the top.

Alternatively, from the end of the 3rd pitch you could probably do the last pitch of the other 10a multi, which is the offwidth corner slightly to the left.

The descent rap route starts from the end of this (alternate) pitch, so if you did the original finish you need to scramble left (facing in) on the rock bands at the top to find it.

Gear: double rack + #4 and #5.

One of Japan's iconic multi-pitch free climbing routes. This is a must do route. The 1st, 4th and 5th pitches are the gems of the route. The hardest pitch is the first pitch which starts with a bouldery arete move into the corner under the overhang. Then moving right and around the overhang and onto the 5.11b slab, which will test even the best slab climbing specialists. The chimney in pitch 6 is graded 5.7, however this is not a true indication of the difficulty and should be re-graded as 5.9+～5.10.

The first route to this particular summit. Starts at the obvious chimney on the sandy terrace and follows the line of least resistance. Has some bushy/scrambling pitches before merging with Joyful Moment during the last pitch.

To descend, scramble roughly west from the summit down boulders. At some point, can turn around and go under the last boulder you climbed down, making a small cave that leads back towards the descent gully.

Start around 30m right from Outsider, at obviously worn left-leading flake/crack.

1. Left-leaning crack to tree. Possible to link with the next pitch if you don't have too much drag.

2. Traverse left along ledge to base of steep crack.

3. Steep crack - be careful of fragile rock, especially the hanging tufa-like thing near the start. Otherwise an enjoyable pitch. One old bolt near the start.

4. V-groove flaring crack, initially steep then slabby but widens, requiring some offwidth technique. Old bolted anchor or use gear.

5. Scramble through boulders behind then short crack to the summit, gear anchor.

Double rack + #4 and #5 helpful.

To descend, scramble roughly west from the summit down boulders. At some point, can turn around and go under the last boulder you climbed down, making a small cave that leads back towards the descent gully.

Translates as "Life theater"

Translates as "Grilled octopus alliance"

One of the most impressive climbs at Mizugaki. A true classic and a real test piece for the grade.

にんげんせんげん

Overhanging Off-width Crack. Number Camelot C4 #3 through #6 is essential, along with long trousers and shirt.

Translates as Snake Route Left

Translates as Snake Route Right. Watch out for the tree at half height. Any fall above the gear while ascending the twin crack section at the top of the route will result in hitting the tree below. The tree has already accounted for one rushed trip to the emergency room to patch up a big gouge in one climbers buttocks after he fell at the lip of the twin crack section.

Translates as "Snake Pit"

F1.5～3.5

F0.4～4　Mid size range Route name translates as"Fudosawa lovers party route".

F1～4 2-3set use70m

This is a fantastic route that is only marred by the scrappy start. The real climbing starts from the OW size crack (more like a squeeze chimney then an off-width). Put in a number BD #6 and then begin to grunt your way up. If you like wide off-width climbing then give this climb another 1 star. The OW changes to a perfect fist/hand size overhanging crack that continues directly straight up all the way to the anchor. It is best to 2nd the climb to clean the route. BD 0.75 ～6) It would be recommended that you take 2x BD #5 unless you don't mind having long runouts.

First pitch is a fantastic flake traverse around an arête which finishes at the anchor for Hyakuu no oo. The second pitch starts up in a chimney and then you step out onto the face and then up an off width crack to the top. Beware the top off width crack, if you are not used to off width climbing you will think you have just been sandbagged (don't think it us an easy 5.8)

Translates as ”Finishing touch”

F3～4, T5～6

Rhododendron Guitar 石楠花三味

TOPへの道

タンジェリンクラウド

愁いの王 "King of melancholy"

Translates as "Antelope Route" Cam sizes F1～4

The Same Variation

Translates as "Youth '86"

Three F1 size cams

F1～4

天才の証明 Translates as "Proof of genius" F1.5～3

This route is on the rock formation known as Dog Head Rock

This route is on the rock formation known as 'Penguin Rock'

Translates as "Sound of a stream route" F1～3 This route is on the rock formation known as 'Seal Rock'

F1.5～4

F1～4,K1, L1

Translates as "Right Arete Route"

Translates as "Angels Stairs"

Translates as "Anonymous" (No Name)

Start up Nanshi no Gonbee to the small roof, go over the roof and into the thin finger crack above. continue past the tree at half height and continue to follow the obvious crack line. The crack widens as you go from fist to O.W. size. BD C4 #3- 5 is required to protect the top section.

This line is very gritty and covered with moss and scale, this line will need a fair bit of cleaning before it can be lead again. It looks like a good line and would be worth cleaning up, definitely looks like a one or two star climb.

The final top section of the climb was linked and the FFA made by James Frith on 14th October 2013. The protection is good but the final crux section of the route is unprotected and run-out, which can be very daunting. A helmet is considered a good option. This is a must do line for all budding Mizugaki-Yama Crack Gurus.

Anonymous Roof Crack

Translates as "Rock Hall of Fame”。　A true classic and one of the top 10 climbs at Mizugaki. This is a must do route.

hand and fist size crack up to two large flake like features. The crack continues above on thin hands and fingures which leads to the crux at 3/4 height. The crux section is very hard to protect and run out. Plug a small TC 00 at the start (there is really only one place that you can place protection), then fingure jam and layback like a madman up to a "Thank God" edge where you can rest while you get your nerves back again. Great climb with losts of thrill.

Very short climb. The crux is at 1/3 height where you need to get a height foot stance to gain the jug hold about 2m below the over hang.

C0.3 ~ 3 sized Cams

Add, one more star for the 1st Pitch (once it is cleaned). The second pitch is a classic Off-width test piece and deserves the two stars.

lowe section has nice moves but the rock is still a little unstable so be careful

Good Option for the Second pitch finish.

One of the Options as the second pitch finish. Up the wide crack corner

Starts out with 20m of finger cracks and then widens for the last 10m to a slightly flaring large hands /fist size crack to top out. This is a fantastic climb. This is a continuos climb with no real rests the entire length, there are however several great hand jam pockets that are placed at the perfect places to de-pump and place your next bit of gear. This is a must do and a real contender for top 5 best climbs at Mizugaki.

(Kクラックを探すも、見つけられなかったので、これでアップ。以前は苦しんだものの、今回はサクッと。最初から最後までワイドで、ハング越えがなかなか。後ろの木は使わない方が楽しめます。)

Trad-route in the northface. More at www.kletterblock.de

Pitch 1 of Naoto Ridge climbed free

Take Care

Pitch 1 of Gyaku V Ji Hang climbed free

Pitch 2 of Gyaku V Ji Hang climbed free