Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Magaliesberg Commando Neck | |||||
11 | Easter Bunny
1
10
15m
2
11
20m
Starts on right-hand side of a grey slab in a recess, right of 'One-eyed Jack'.
首攀: H. Goynes & Clive Ward | 35m, 2 | |||
11 | Ripper
1
11
35m
2
9
30m
Start climb at high point 30m left of meeting place at an obvious black chimney with prominent small tree 10m up.
首攀: C.A. Baker & E. Wood, 1977 | 65m, 2 | |||
11 | ★ Cave Crag
1
9
18m
2
11
18m
3
8
18m
4
8
25m
The start of this climb may be located by reference to three caves near the base of the rook and spaced about 30m apart. The route commences about 9m to the left of the most westerly of these three caves, in a small recess, and is marked by a beacon at ground level. The starting point is actually on a broad grass ledge which is reached by clambering over a rocky slope at the bottom of the krantz. Between the starting point and the cave on the right there is a natural feature on the rock having the appearance of an inverted broad arrow chiselled into the rock. This is greenish-yellow in colour.
Note: The rock is sound and holds good. The first stance can accommodate two people only with comfort. Top section is disappointing after the first two pitches. 首攀: P. Houmoller, 1938 | 79m, 4 | |||
11 | ★ Frame Route
1
10
25m
2
11
15m
3
8
12m
4
8
12m
Start on the sloping wall about 5m to the left of 'Hanging Boulder'.
首攀: H. Biesheuvel, Mr., Mrs. C. Hutchinson & Mr, 1936 | 64m, 4 | |||
11 | Zig Zag
The start is easily located by reference to a prominent crack leading up to overhanging rocks, which are split and appear to be blocked by aloes. The climb follows the crack in two 9 pitches to a point just below the overhanging rock on the right, then traverses outward, and down to a point about 10m to the right of the crack. From here the route goes vertically upwards. An alternative route opened by T. Louw and W. Curle goes straight up the crack through the split overhang. (10) 首攀: D. Wood, A. Cawood, M. Fenger, H. Barker & C. Hutchinson, 1934 | ||||
11 | Prometheus
1
9
15m
2
10
22m
3
11
12m
4
9
22m
Not a particularly inviting climb but longer than others in the area. Numerous belays. Starts 5 - 10m left of 'Zig Zag'.
首攀: N. Morrison, R. Walker & D. Gilham, 1949 | 71m, 4 | |||
11 | Straight Up
Start in main descent gully to the right of large cave seen 10m above.
首攀: P. Knoethe & E. Muller | 40m | |||
11 | Keg And Tankard
1
11
35m
2
11
25m
45m right of 'Tower Of Pisa' and 4-5m left of 'No Highway'.
Note: A very pleasant climb on good rock. 首攀: H. Zangerl & Clive Ward, 1978 | 60m, 2 | |||
Magaliesberg Eureka Dome & Skeerpoort 关闭的 Vulture Colony | |||||
11 | Echo Face
Starting almost in the gully, this climb follows an almost direct line over the grass ledge and straight to the summit. The start from the grass ledge is cairned. 首攀: D.P. Liebenberg, A. Cawood & Miss A. Netter, 1935 | ||||
11 | Slotted Slab
Immediately to right of 'Four Man Gully' the crag is steep and foreboding. Further to right the upper section of the face lies back in the form of a bay or large recess where a good size tree is growing 20m below the top of the krantz. Below this tree is a smooth 6m slab which on closer acquaintance proves to be deeply slotted. It is bounded on the left by a wall and above by a clean-cut overhang tapering away to the right. The route attains the foot of the slab by a 15m grassy crack running up to the left. The slab can either be avoided by a 5m traverse right and an ascent of the rocks immediately to the right of the slab, but more merit is acquired by ascending the corner on the left of the slab and crossing the top of the slab to the right just below the overhang. The large bay is now reached whence an easy route could be made out to the left. It is more interesting however, to continue the direct line of the climb and avoid the final wall by a traverse on to the buttress on the right. Variation (not recommended – loose rock): The lower section has been more recently climbed as follows:
首攀: R. Barry & A. Robertson, 1937 | ||||
Magaliesberg Kranskloof | |||||
11 | Kranskloof Chimney
1
7
40m
2
11
35m
Start on the true right-hand wall of the kloof opposite the junction with NETTLE GULLY in a gully ending in steep rock (downstream of 'Grotesque').
首攀: . van Rensburg, H. Barker, R. & A. Friede, 1981 | 75m, 2 | |||
11 | Pad Pad
1
8
30m
2
11
15m
Start left of 'Vuil Pheiler'. The climb follows a slab which narrows to one meter at the top.
首攀: C. & A. Fatti, 1981 | 45m, 2 | |||
11 | ★ Easy Does It
1
10
33m
2
11
33m
50m downstream of STAMVRUG GULLY a well-defined ridge projects into the kloof. The climb starts up the distinctive 10m high open book just downstream of this ridge.
首攀: Clive Ward & D. Peters, 1979 | 66m, 2 | |||
11 | ★ Fo
The right crack line of the two mentioned in 'Fie' is climbed. This crack lies in the corner between the back of the short gully and the downstream side of the short gully.
首攀: J. McLennan, D. Peters & C. Ward, 1981 | 20m | |||
11 | ★ Fee
1
8
17m
2
11
18m
The climb goes up the corner 5m downstream of the gully where 'Fie', 'Fo' and 'Fum' begin.
首攀: J. McLennan & M. Romancia, 1981 | 35m, 2 | |||
12 | ★ J And B
1
12
25m
2
10
17m
This route starts on the front of the low buttress on the left of 'Fee', 'Fie', 'Fo' and 'Fum'
首攀: B.R. de Villiers & Greg Moseley, 1979 | 42m, 2 | |||
12 | ★ More Goofy Than Mickey Mouse
This climb starts 35m upstream of 'Late Breeze' (5m upstream of 'Sugar Man') in a prominent recess.
首攀: D. Margetts & N. Margetts, 1985 | 25m | |||
11 | Snip
Start just to the right of 'Snack' where there is a small red-brown corner about 10m above the kloof floor with a roof above it.
首攀: A. Fatti, C. Fatti & C. Ward, 1981 | 30m | |||
12 | ★★ Mark The Ripples
1
11
25m
2
9
20m
3
12
25m
Start on the true right-hand side of the kloof, opposite 'Ripple Mark'. The climb begins on a polished sloping black slab at ground level and initially goes up a smooth black corner which overhangs 30m up.
首攀: C. Fatti, P. Kaiser, S. Gans & I. Kelman, 1979 | 70m, 3 | |||
11 | Last Drop
Climb the recess/gully between 'Zimbabwe Face' and 'High Rise' - 30m. 首攀: D. Margetts & G. Devine, 1993 | 30m | |||
11 | ★ KB Four
10m up from 'KB Three' on the same side (cairn).
首攀: N. Cleaver & C. Ward, 1982 | 45m | |||
11 | KB One
On the same side of the kloof and 10m upstream from 'North America Wall'. On the wall right of the recess (cairn).
首攀: C. Ward & N. Cleaver, 1982 | 50m | |||
11 | ★ Doptone
This route starts just upstream of the lower meet site (about 10 to 15m) i.e. downstream of 'Roamer'.
首攀: D. Margetts & V. Nienhaber, 1987 | 30m | |||
12 | ★ Optional Extra
This climb takes the same buttress as 'Bonnie' and climbs the downstream face. Scramble up to the left of the buttress to a good tree belay.
首攀: N. Margetts & M. Margetts, 1985 | 25m | |||
12 | ★★ Stoep Polish
1
8
21m
2
12
18m
3
10
27m
The climb starts up a broken sloping white face 10m upstream of the narrow gully upstream of 'The Swarm'.
Note: This is a clean climb on top quality rock. 首攀: D. Peters, C. Fatti & A. Fatti, 1981 | 66m, 3 | |||
12 | Ripple Mark
1
12
25m
2
10
30m
Situated opposite grey grassy slabs on far side of kloof, downstream of a pinky-white recess.
首攀: C. Fatti, P. Kaiser, S. Gans & I. Kelman, 1979 | 55m, 2 | |||
Magaliesberg Remhoogte | |||||
11 | ★★ Wunderbar
1
8
25m
2
10
15m
3
9
37m
4
11
18m
This climb on clean rock is left of 'Fanny's Ridge' and to the left of a large red overhang, about 30m up.
首攀: J.H. Graafland & Mrs. J.H. Graafland, 1966 | 95m, 4 | |||
11 | Male Firenze
1
9
17m
2
8
11m
3
11
25m
4
10 - 13
25m
The climb starts at a low buttress slightly jutting forward.
首攀: T. Louw & W. Curle, 1947 | 78m, 4 | |||
11 | Halfway House Buttress
1
11
22m
2
8
9m
3
10
28m
4
8
12m
The route finishes up the outside of the buttress or ridge which forms on its left the crack of 'Halfway House'. Start 30m right of the line of that route, 3m left of a white patch.
首攀: A.G. Chinery, C. Cowley & B. Honey, 1964 | 71m, 4 | |||
11 | ★ Blister Minor
1
10
12m
2
11
34m
Start as for 'Halfway House'.
首攀: A.G. Chinery, E. Thomlinson & B. Honey, 1965 | 46m, 2 | |||
11 | ★★★ Dassie Route
1
10
15m
2
8
25m
3
8
15m
4
11
15m
5
6
The climb is situated about 180m to the left of Remhoogte Gully. At this point there is a 'set back' face framed on each side by a ridge and at the top by a prominent overhang. The start of the climb is about 45m to the left of a cave (2½ m high, 10m deep) at the top of the grass slope.
首攀: R. Davies, W.F. Bright, Miss J. Slinger & M. Vialls, 1950 | 70m, 5 | |||
11 | Carabiner Crag
About 20m to the left of 'Porthole Ridge' is another ridge marking the western boundary of the top pitch of 'Porthole Crag'. Still further to the left is a second sharply defined ridge having on its left boundary a vertical red face forming a recess with the buttress on its right. In this recess grow two large bushes about half way up, immediately below the brown face. The climb follows the line of the ridge keeping to the left of the edge where most of the climbing is on a flat face. 首攀: B.I. Harris, G. Burrow, N. Clark, H. Cameron & S. Taussig, 1947 | ||||
11 | Lone Wolf
1
11
35m
2
10
25m
Start approximately 150m west of 'Breakfast Run' where there are no bushes on the slope below the climbs. The climb starts on a white slab facing towards Hartebeespoort Dam. The slab gets progressively steeper until it reaches the steep arete.
Note: The climb appears to enjoy more winter sun than most others in the area. 首攀: R. Fox & Dan Scott, 1983 | 60m, 2 | |||
Magaliesberg Trident Kloof True Left | |||||
7 - 13 | Belay Practice
At the left hand side of the smooth rock wall on which 'Lifebuoy', 'Shady Overhang' and 'Bat's Overhang' are situated. The route follows an obvious line immediately to the left of the smooth rock wall. An easier start is up the deeper recess about 5m left of the smooth face. A more difficult first pitch 13 is up the shallow recess about 1,5m left of the smooth face. From the belay practice ledge (large block here) continue on up right-angled recess. | ||||
Magaliesberg Trident Kloof True Right | |||||
11 | Easy Option
1
11
22m
2
9
20m
Start about 3m to right of 'Easy Way Out'.
首攀: H. Wong | 42m, 2 | |||
11 | ★ Pinnacle Route
1
10
25m
2
11
30m
Start just downstream of 'Pink Corner' at easy grey slab with corner on right. Scramble up slab (5) to ledge and continue leftwards past trees to base of pinnacle (upstream side).
Variations possible on front of pinnacle (10), and to the left of the block on pitch 2, (5) or right (13) 首攀: T. Bright & T. Louw | 55m, 2 | |||
Magaliesberg Castle Gorge | |||||
11 | ★★ Castle Gorge Corner
1
7
12m
2
11
11m
3
6
15m
The climb lies up the corner on the right overlooking the deep lunch pool, opposite 'Pool Ascent'.
首攀: J. Botha, 1942 | 38m, 3 | |||
11 | ★★ Caterpillar
1
8
3m
2
7
15m
3
10
12m
4
11
20m
The climb is on the face immediately upstream of Castle Gully. It starts about 15m upstream of Castle Gully and about 10m left of a prominent white-pink patch at the base of the krantz.
| 50m, 4 | |||
11 | ★ Diverimento
1
11
18m
2
8
18m
This climb is situated on the buttress referred to under 'Theme and Variations'. It starts about 12m down and to the left of 'Theme and Variations' and follows a ridge on the buttress.
首攀: R. Davies, I. Keith & Miss J. Slinger. | 36m, 2 | |||
10 - 15 | Castle Gorge Pinnacle
This is a 15m high pinnacle on the right hand side, reached by following the stream past Castle and Knight gullies and wading through pools for about 100m. The pinnacle may be climbed by a difficult route on the stream side (15) or by a route (10) on the upstream side starting where the pinnacle joins the wall on the kloof. | 15m | |||
Magaliesberg Dome Dome East | |||||
11 | Boulder Buttress
1
11
40m
2
11
28m
首攀: Herman Vogl & Clive Ward, 1975 | 68m, 2 | |||
11 | Warfare
1
10
20m
2
11
20m
Located in the middle of a grey amphitheatre overlooking the scree in 'Lightning Ravine'. Scramble up the bush covered subsidiary buttress abutting the main wall to a dark recess.
首攀: Miss C. Chester & R. Fox, 1979 | 40m, 2 | |||
Magaliesberg Dome Dome Near East | |||||
11 | Sunday Trippers
1
11
20m
2
11
20m
There is a small buttress approximately 20m left of 'Enigma Face'. The route takes a line in a recess left of this buttress. This provides better climbing than that on the right-hand side.
Variation 2. 20m 8 Continue for about a meter up the left wall of the recess and step around left to easy ground. Climb diagonally left and up to the top. 首攀: Colin Baker & Clive Ward, 1978 | 40m, 2 | |||
Magaliesberg Dome Dome | |||||
11 | Neffie Nose
1
10
15m
2
11
25m
About 12m towards lunch cave from 'Muffin's Route' is a prominent nose. Start directly beneath it.
首攀: Merv Prior, J. Sorour & C. Sorour, 1971 | 40m, 2 | |||
11 | Changed Plan
1
11
20m
2
11
27m
The route takes the front face of the buttress immediately right of 'Dome Gully' providing pleasant face climbing. Scramble 18m up to bottom of the buttress and start 3m right of the gully.
首攀: J.E. Stapley, S. Rademeyer & Mrs. R.L. Stapley, 1966 | 47m, 2 | |||
11 | ★ Twilight Recess
1
11
22m
2
10
18m
3
10
24m
Please do not climb this route between April and October (inclusive) due to nesting of black eagles. 首攀: J. Langmore & J. Oates, 1938 | 64m, 3 | |||
11 | Trapeze Crag (Minor)
1
11
2
11
3
8
6m
4
9
14m
5
11
20m
The last three pitches of this climb are the same as for 'Trapeze Crag (Major)'. The delicate traverse under the overhang on the Major climb is obviated by starting the climb on the ridge immediately below the left hand edge of the overhang. It is advisable to make at least two pitches for this which are of grade 11 before linking with the Major route at the left edge of the overhang. Variation: 1 10 Instead of climbing the ridge of the first pitch, follow the recess immediately to the left of the ridge. 首攀: C. Nicholls, D. Abercrombie & H. Howard, 1938 | 40m, 5 | |||
11 | Chapel Corner
1
10
18m
2
11
25m
In the description of 'Chapel Buttress' two prominent trees are mentioned, one two thirds up and one a third up and slightly to the left. There is a grey ridge immediately left of the lower tree. The ridge is undercut and red for the first 6m from the ground. The top of the ridge is about halfway up the face. The route goes up the left side of the ridge to its top, thence up the recessed face above.
首攀: Merv Prior, R.F. Davies, I. Cohen & R. Green, 1965 | 43m, 2 | |||
Magaliesberg Fountain Gully | |||||
11 | Gaper
1
10
15m
2
11
20m
3
8
30m
Start at base of wide crack with chockstone cap 20m to the right of 'The Lug'.
首攀: Stewart Middlemiss & Russ Dodding, 1983 | 65m, 3 | |||
11 | Pinocchio
1
8
34m
2
11
28m
3
9
30m
Start 50m west of fence from a point just right of block against the face.
首攀: J.H. Graafland & J.J. du Plessis, 1965 | 92m, 3 | |||
11 | Peek-A-Boo Trail
1
10
18m
2
11
19m
3
9
23m
The climb starts in a high narrow cave 30 metres short of the first clump of trees on Fountain Gully West. Start right of 'Aloe Alley'. The climb crosses 'Aloe Alley' at the top of the first pitch.
首攀: G.K. Montgomery & H.M. Winder, 1981 | 60m, 3 | |||
11 | Holdfast
1
9
18m
2
9
18m
3
11
22m
Starts on a ridge to left of grass-strewn broken face, at top of krantz and on right of a series of overhanging red faces. This is about 18m to left of 'Aloe Alley'.
首攀: B. Harris, G. Burrow, M. Borkum & D. Clark, 1949 | 58m, 3 | |||
11 | ★★ Gringo Face-Variation
首攀: J.H. Graafland, T. Lloyd & M. Steyn, 1965 | 30m | |||
Magaliesberg Tonquani-Cedarberg Complex Upper Tonquani Kloof Junction Kloof | |||||
11 | Second Dan
1
11
25m
2
10
15m
Begin at the front of the buttress alongside a large knobbled tree on the extreme left of the upper amphitheatre.
首攀: R. Fox & Dan Scott, 1982 | 40m, 2 | |||
Magaliesberg Tonquani-Cedarberg Complex Upper Tonquani Kloof | |||||
12 | ★★ Reunion
1
10
18m
2
12
12m
3
10
15m
Situated about 135m up kloof from Short Gully at the extreme right hand end of the Donkerhoek Buttress. Start just to the left of cave in a steeply sloping recess.
Variations:
首攀: J. Botha, R. Ruhle & H. Rowland, 1947 | 45m, 3 | |||
12 | ★ Donkerhoek Recess
1
12
18m
2
7
25m
5m left of 'Donkerhoek Corner' is an undercut hand crack going up diagonally right.
It is also possible to move left onto the face and follow 'Beetlejuice' to the top on excellent gear at grade 10. 首攀: H. Barker, 1938 | 43m, 2 | |||
11 | Concertina
1
11
21m
2
8
12m
Commences halfway down Short Gully on right hand side.
首攀: T. Louw & W. Curle, 1948 | 33m, 2 | |||
11 | ★ Feng's Folly
1
11
15m
2
6
25m
3
11
15m
Commences in a prominent recess starting from stream level about 9m downstream of the start of 'Tonquani Ridge'. The recess is topped by a sloping ledge with a large tree on the edge of the recess.
Variation: 3a. 13 Ascend a few metres in the final chimney and then traverse right across a face for 18m. This traverse leads to an undercut buttress which is ascended until easier rock is reached at the top. (1954 H. Barker) 首攀: M. Fenger & H. Barker, 1933 | 55m, 3 | |||
11 | Deluge
1
11
18m
2
10
12m
首攀: Merv Prior & H. Graafland, 1966 | 30m, 2 | |||
11 | Trepidation
1
10
23m
2
7
22m
3
11
15m
4
11
14m
The climb starts from the large boulder which separates the Eel Pool and Big Pool. i.e. opposite 'Consolation'.
首攀: R. Kinsley, S. Baron & P. Weinberg, 1955 | 74m, 4 | |||
Magaliesberg Tonquani-Cedarberg Complex Lower Tonquani Kloof | |||||
11 | Gunfire
This climb commences about 50m below the junction of Cedarberg and Tonquani Kloofs. The route ascends the lowermost downstream of three reddish buttresses and is directly opposite a deep cleft on the other side of the kloof. On the left hand side of the buttress a recessed gully leads easily up from stream bed. Ascending this gully it becomes cavernous and closed in by the right hand wall. After a scramble of about 22m up this gully traverse out right on to buttress (8) and at a small grass ledge climb up 9m to top of buttress. From here ascend diagonally left up towards the left hand flank of buttress (10) and climb obvious recess to top (11). 首攀: S. Penny, R. Kinsley, S. Patchitt & F. Petousis, 1952 | ||||
11 | ★ Welcome to the Pleasure Dome
1
11
35m
2
6
35m
Climbs the obvious break immediately upstream of 'The Scream Of The Butterfly', i.e. about 5m downstream of the 'Old Man's Exit'
首攀: Kevin Smith & M. Smith, 1989 | 70m, 2 | |||
11 | Grill
1
11
18m
2
10
15m
3
11
18m
This climb is best located in relation to 'Hotplate' . To the left of that climb there is a smooth whitish slab about 30m long. The route initially ascends the more climbable rock on the left of the slab.
首攀: Merv Prior & S. Perry, 1959 | 51m, 3 | |||
11 | Tonquanus
1
11
9m
2
10
18m
3
11
15m
The climb as the name implies is at the bottom of Tonquani about 150m downstream of the Cedarberg junction. A few meters past a pool which occupies the kloof from wall to wall one sees a prominent prow of rock near the top of the face. The climb is slightly to the right of this feature, and commences from a wide earthy ledge about 18m above stream bed.
Variation: 2a. 15m 19 Instead of pitch 2 continue up the recess. After strenuously working up to the top, one makes a difficult pull-up on to a ledge on the left hand side. The ledge at the top of pitch 2 is reached after ascending about 3m of easy rock. (Mar 1956 R. Davies and R Kinsley) 首攀: R. Davies, J. Slinger & E. Lubbert, 1952 | 42m, 3 | |||
Magaliesberg Tonquani-Cedarberg Complex Cedarberg Kloof | |||||
11 | ★ Lunch
This climb ascends the easy face to the left of 'Terminator' .
Note: Two routes could be made up this face. 首攀: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1991 | 20m | |||
12 | ★ Easy Meat
About 10m left of 'Mercers Layback' is an obvious buttress, separated from the main buttress.
首攀: Darryl Margetts & Greg Devine, 1994 | 20m | |||
12 | ★★ Gorillas in the Mist
Climb the arete and face left of 'Easy Meat' . 首攀: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 1994 | ||||
11 | ★ Deception
1
8
25m
2
11
15m
3
7
22m
Situated in a gap between the two series of red overhangs about 75m above lower swimming pool. Climb starts to right of lower series of overhangs.
首攀: T. Louw & L. Lincoln, 1946 | 62m, 3 | |||
11 | ★ Obelix
Approximately 50m downstream of the Cedarberg meet spot is a large recess on the left. At the time of writing this up (2007) there was a small growth of what looks like prickly pear nearby. The route is on right-hand side of the upstream-side face, in a recess at the bottom of which is a 3m high rock obelisk (no too secure). A well protected route. 1. 20m 11 Climb the recess with the two cracks behind the obelisk until an overhang is reached (16m). The overhang can either be obviated by a short traverse right and continuing the ascent, or it may be tackled head-on. 首攀: Rob Thomas & Warren Krynie, 2007 | 20m | |||
11 | POST PRANDIAL LETHARGY
Above 50m downstream from the LEAP OF FAITH buttress, the kloof floor begins to drop away rapidly. Half way down this decline, and just above the ever-fun slide down the boulder, there is a sandy lunch spot on the true left, with a small cave. This is some 80m above the worm-hole descent. Just downstream from this cave, there is a recess of rounded steps, reaching up to the canopy. Start 5m right of the cave, where tree roots skirt the face.
首攀: Dylan Morgan & Warren Krynie, 2003 | 35m | |||
11 | Crocodile
1
10
25m
2
8
15m
3
11
8m
Start from same tree at bottom right hand corner of GOLDEN PITCHER CRAG face.
首攀: E. Wood, H. Fors, F. Maree & E. Wood., 1956 | 48m | |||
11 | ★ Maternity Couch
1
11
25m
2
11
18m
3
10
Commences about 5m above the big tree opposite the lower swimming pool.
首攀: A. Hooper, 1938 | 43m | |||
11 | Open Offer
Halfway up FROG GULLY there is a large grass ledge. The route follows the obvious corner crack opposite the top of the first pitch of MATERNITY COUCH (cairn).
首攀: D. Quaife & J. de Groot, 1984 | 40m | |||
11 | Antiseptic
1
10
9m
2
10
6m
3
11
12m
The start is situated directly beneath STRAIGHT JERRY.
首攀: B. Fletcher & R.W. Charlton, 1966 | 27m | |||
11 | ★ Rana Variant
1
10
18m
2
10
11m
3
11
25m
首攀: S. van Rensburg, 1975 | 54m | |||
11 | Right Angle
The first pitch goes up the centre of the slab forming the square back of the very large recess to the right of FROG FACE. Traverse left under overhang then up face just to right of final pitch of FROG FACE. 首攀: R.W. Charlton, M. Urban & C. Thurston, 1962 | ||||
11 | Detour
1
11
30m
2
10
15m
3
11
15m
Starts 13m downstream of FROG FACE (i.e. 5m downstream of OLD MAN'S CHOICE). Start inside a short deep gully directly beneath the "butterfly".
首攀: O. Oppler & Merv Prior, 1963 | 60m, 3 | |||
12 | ★★ Cedarberg Corner
1
7
15m
2
12
31m
3
9
35m
30m upstream of Cederberg/Tonquani junction is a platform 1.5m above the stream level. 15m above the platform is cave.
From the ledge you can scramble out easily to the left and up a gully. Original variation: The original route traverses right out of cave then up a crack to a wide sloping grassy ledge. Then up to the point where pitch 3 starts. 首攀: J. Langmore & H. Barker, 1939 | 81m | |||
11 | ★ Cedarberg Triangle
1
5
20m
2
7
20m
3
10
14m
4
11
18m
Commences about 15m downstream of CEDARBERG CORNER and at the right side of a very large broken, dirty triangular shaped face.
首攀: J. Langmore & H. Barker, 1939 | 72m, 4 | |||
Magaliesberg Tonquani-Cedarberg Complex Boulder Kloof | |||||
11 | ★★ Sunday Stroller
This climb ascends a prominent arete 300m upstream from the upper descent gully into Boulder Kloof. The route is situated just downstream of a deep pool. A small free standing pinnacle lies just downstream of the start. Scramble up to the start.
首攀: A. Mercer, D. Margetts & M. Seegers, 1988 | 25m | |||
Magaliesberg Groblerskloof | |||||
12 | BAGSCRATCHER
1
12
15m
2
11
18m
On the true right-hand side of the kloof and 10m upstream of the gully is a recessed corner capped by a huge tortoise-shaped block 12m up with a huge tortoise head projecting under an overhang.
Note: Short persons may find the crux move to be 13. 首攀: R. Fox, Miss C. Chester & Dan Scott, 1978 | 33m, 2 | |||
11 | ★ DUEY
Begins 2 to 3m right of HUEY. and ascends the obvious recess.
首攀: Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers & Tanja Truter, 1989 | 15m | |||
11 | ★★★ RED WALL
1
11
20m
2
11
20m
Starts 20m downstream from FOUR WAY JUNCTION and the descent gully. A metre square block is on the face about 2m above the start.
首攀: Merv Prior, B. van der Riet & Ulrike Kiefer, 1991 | 40m, 2 | |||
11 | WHOOSH
1
8
25m
2
11
20m
The climb starts at the first 2m waterfall upstream from the meet point.
首攀: G. Langmore & D. Prior, 1978 | 45m, 2 | |||
11 | MISDIRECTED
The climb starts below the pinnacle on the arete immediately to the right of WHOOSH.
首攀: F. Smit & Stewart Middlemiss, 1981 | 35m | |||
12 | ★★ TANGLES
This climb is situated on the short rock face immediately above the meet spot on the true left of the kloof. The start can be distinguished by a tree growing to the left of a reddish recess. Also there are white blotches on the face below a small overhang three-quarters of the way up the cliff.
首攀: Darryl Margetts & A. Maddison, 1984 | 15m | |||
11 | ★ BULLDOG Arête
Climbs the arete to the left of TRISDIDECAPHOBIA.
Descent as for SNOOPY. 首攀: Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers & Neil Margetts, 1988 | 15m | |||
12 | SNOOPY
Climbs the recess to the right of DEADLY PURSUIT.
首攀: Martin Seegers & Darryl Margetts, 1988 | 20m | |||
Magaliesberg Hamerkop Kloof Upper Section | |||||
11 | ICHNI
Situated on upstream side of the buttress immediately upstream of the pinnacle at the head of the kloof above the top weir.
首攀: D. Quaife & A. Hulbert, 1985 | 25m | |||
12 | ★ TON UP PLUS
Climbs the wide upstream-facing crack/pillar with a prominent triangular capstone on top. [Just above the second weir]
Notes:
首攀: Russ Dodding, R. Fox, L. Gardiner, S. Kelsey, D. Quaife, T. Snijders, P. Wallek & T.P. Willmot, 1985 | 20m | |||
12 | ★ CALCULUS
Start on the face midway between two small rock pinnacles, just downstream of IMMACULATE MISCONCEPTION and HOTEL CALIFORNIA, near pipe no 22 above the 1st weir.
Note: A good abseil tree will be found 5m above the climb. 首攀: Stuart Brown, Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers & Neil Margetts, 1985 | 30m | |||
11 | ITCHY KOO
1
7
21m
2
11
22m
Begin just downstream of the first weir, high in the recess just to the right of LOVE AT FIRST FRIGHT. [Pipe No 34 above the pipe ramp.]
Note: Be careful rope doesn't loosen rock at the top of the gully. 首攀: R. Fox, Miss F. Greig & Dan Scott, 1985 | 43m, 2 | |||
11 | IT'S NOT INSIDE, IT'S ON TOP
Takes the left slanting off-width crack 5m downstream of SLIP SLIDING AWAY. [Near pipe No 30 above the pipe ramp]
Note: It is possible to descend by abseiling from a stout tree in the centre of the gully a few metres above the grassy ledge. 首攀: T.P. Willmot & R. Fox, 1985 | 21m | |||
11 | MEDIOCRITY
1
11
23m
2
11
22m
Climbs the left-hand slab and faces in the steep gully between SUB JUDICE and SPHINCTER SPASM. [12 pipe lengths up from the ramp]
Note: Not recommended. There's plenty better nearby. 首攀: R. Fox & Dan Scott, 1985 | 45m, 2 | |||
11 | PORCO DIO
1
11
20m
2
9
15m
Start 7 pipe lengths upstream from where the pipe descends to stream level, and the lowest rock moves away from the pipe. Scramble up to a short upstream-facing 10m high grade 6 recess with chockstones at the top.
首攀: R. Fox & Dan Scott, 1985 | 35m, 2 | |||
11 | ★ INCOMMUNICADO
1
11
25m
2
10
10m
Start 5 pipe lengths up from the pipe ramp.
首攀: R. Fox & Miss I. Stark, 1985 | 35m, 2 | |||
9 - 13 | ★ HUMBLE TRUNDLE
1
9
20m
2
9 - 13
18m
The climb takes the prominent chimney situated just upstream of the descent gully with the water pipe. Follow this pipe up the ramp until next to a large cave. [Upstream of Pipe Ramp]
Variation: 2 18m 13 Move up and left onto steep exposed slab and continue up to a large flat block. Step right and finish up the arête. (21 Jul 1985 L. Gardiner and T.P. Willmot) 首攀: L. Gardiner & D. Quaife, 1985 | 38m, 2 | |||
11 | ★ POM'S FINALE
The climb is situated on the true left-hand side opposite the second weir. Its start is 8m downstream of corner below the red face.
首攀: D. Quaife & A. Hulbert, 1985 | 21m | |||
12 | SEND IN THE CLOWNS
Just downstream of the OBSCENE GESTURE is a detached pinnacle. The route starts at the base of this pinnacle, ascends its arête, moves up the fault to the right of the pinnacle and ascends the broken shit above to the top - cairn.
Notes: Protection is adequate. 首攀: Ulrike Kiefer, T.P. Willmot & M.T. Willmot, 1994 | 30m | |||
Magaliesberg Hamerkop Kloof Lower Section | |||||
11 - 13 | ★ GOLDEN HIGHWAY
1
7
25m
2
11 - 13
25m
Takes a direct line up the square buttress just downstream of the pipeline ramp. At the top there is a capstone pointing downstream. Start at water level, just downstream of a tiny waterfall. [G - 5]
Note: Exposed, clean climbing after the overhangs. The grade 13 moves may be avoided by traversing left onto ZARZUELA. 首攀: R. Fox & Dan Scott, 1984 | 50m, 2 |