Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

Start on flat jug at the left of the wall. Reverse Butt Rodgers and continue up A Crow Left of the Murder. Rather than going right to the jug, keep moving straight up to finish on crimp rail.

Sit Start 1.5 metres to the right of 'Tree of Life' hugging the roof. Right hand utilises the obvious right angle brick edge/pinch on the lip of the roof, left hand underneath in a small slot just above the flake. Launch out left via some cool moves dropping into the flake & start holds of Tree of Life. Finish as for this.

Only known repeat by Matt Wrigley.

SDS at pointy jug with detached block for feet, climb right and up on crimps.

SDS. Follows obvious crack to the left and up, either staying underneath on slopey holds or trending high and using underclings.

Sit start on the tiny sharp holds to join Escaped Monkey.

Starts matched on the lowest flat edge with a bad right smear foot and heads straight up, using edges and underclings

Start on the two slotted edges and do a tricky 1-2 dyno to the lip. Easy mantle into the dish. Tom Hodgson (FA)

Start as for room with a view but halfway out exit straight left through some tough moves to reach the jugs. The a large throw to lip before heading straight up the headwall to walk off.

Jenny Lin

Usual cave start. Traverse out left to the slotted jug (effectively reversing Mad Max) then straight through the roof on two poor left hands. Huck for glory!

The most direct line for Braveheart. Start on slotted jug as per Mad Max, and head straight out the roof as for Braveheart.

Start as for Braveheart Direct. After gaining the jug, before Braveheart crux, bust out left to an edge. Right hand to a nothing hold then making a crux move to the slopey lip. Traverse right to finish as per other problems.

Starting as for Braveheart, make some tricky moves from the sit start to join into Chicken Run. Finishing for that problem. Could be 12

Start in the two pockets, slap up left to the very slopey scoop, and aim for the second very slopey hold on the left. Super hard.

Stand start on the undercling right hand and crimp at the same height to the left. 2 hard bumps up to go for the top and over. Watch out for Eli

Yossi Sundakov-Krumins

A direct line up from the Goldfinger start via pocket and undercling then dyno to a slopey crimp on the lip and up the v easy top.

Chris Beers

Start Warmup Warren and traverse right into Massive Attack.

Start Massive Attack and traverse left into Warmup Warren.

The right exit to Massive Attack.

1st problem in the little cave next to the pipes. 'Excellent' and hard.

Direct finish to Shoosh - go straight up around the lip without using the juggy lip hold out right

Climb Porn, but finish way up high and right on the jug. Let the old chalk guide you

Link up. 'Pockets of Resistance' into 'American Siege'.

Sit start below Akhtar on the obvious slot and climb only the low lip left into El Kooko.

Dyno from the start of Diplomatic Immunity to the top of I Am Twelve.

Levitate off the underclings to the jug. No crash-pad cheating now!

Start: Sit

As for 'L'homme Obu' but big move right hand. Top out to the left.

George Li

Chase Gatland

'Rocket Man' sit start. Start up If The Shoe Fits and finish up Rocket Man.

Stephen Rawls

Hard slapping and compression moves with crazy toe hooking. From the hard low start of tablets rehearsed ride the lip to link into blue and green and red all over.

Chris Beers

Start as for Grubby Paw but climb direct through to hueco without using the lip then finish with The Black Pearl. Maybe V12.

Start directly under the prow on pockets then straight up for a desperate top out.

Sam Healy

Start as for Porn Star and traverse into and finish up Bianca's Boobies.

Stand start to Mr Winston. Both hands start on the block, then throw a high left foot behind you onto the scoop, and engage in flexible trickery to get your right foot off the ground. The ledge out right is off as for all problems. Finish up the Y2K exit.

Mr Winston variant. from the lowest part of the head wall head up on tiny crimps.

Top is currently overgrown

Stand start to Arcane Power. Same start as Witchcraft finishing up the Arcane Power Variant exit. Requires real magic.

Start under the roof over the pit of death and head toward the lip. Crux on the face and up high and left to finish. Spotter and pads are advisable.

Start down in the little cave and power your way up through the crimps and pockets, heading left and linking into Little Spoon. (Open project with proposed grade of v11/12)

Start as for Ladder II and when you get to the jugs, head left following the rock contours and some tiny crimps to a very slopey top.

Start as per Big Mitch then a bit left and up to little dish and a crimp then to the top break.

Top out or don't top out. You do you FA https://www.instagram.com/p/B0c2HO2jWPn/

Left variant to Prometheus. Start with the undercling and the crack, head straight up.

Sam Healy

Start on the left side of the big break, do a few long moves to top out over the bulge.

Stand start with LH on the big jug ledge out left and RH on the good edge in the roof.

Follow the crack / sloper ledge to top out right.

A one move wonder. Stand start on the reinforced crimps, trust the terrible feet and do a big slap to the lip.

Liam Healy

A classic on some of the most perfect pockets you can imagine.

Stand start in the big jug under the roof and do some big moves to a committing topout.

Stand on top of the big fallen boulder to reach the starting holds. Follow the beautiful features to a committing topout.

Another Pat Reynolds highball testpiece that has not seen a repeat yet!!!

Shared start with Obsession but go directly up instead, exiting between the two horns on the slab.

Liam Healy

Sit start on the good edges in the far back of the overhang, head diagonally left to reach the side pull flake and slap your way to the top.

Liam Healy

Start off pedestal block and compress upwards.

The Plunge into Aquarius.

The Plunge into Cruel Sea.

Direct finish of Super birdman.

Michael Tonon

Start as for Nasty and make big moves out rightwards, finishing up 'Sushi Train'. Pumpy.

Scoots

Mattias BM

Sage G

Standing Start

Do the first move of Abacus, then traverse backwards through Mushi Brain to finish up Nasty. No traversing straight into the Sushi Train start holds.

Start up Bowels of the Devil, finishing up The Solution of 1993.

Silent Bob into High Up Over Yonder.

Start as for Silent Bob Low, and climb directly out via the micro crimp, skipping the wet rail from Silent Bob. Once on the soccer ball sloper after the lip go directly to the jug. The other holds further right on the ledge are out.

Start on Elliptical jug of Blinky Bill, move directly out to the slot jug, grab any pocket and go big to the letterbox jug of Mr Smiley to finish as for Mr Smiley. Never done a move quite like this outside so hard to grade. Could be harder?

Start Redetonated, reverse Mr Smiley and finish up Bill Smith.

Travis B

Dylan Soin

Start up Spooged, reverse Foam, reverse Mr Smiley and finish up Bill Smith.

Great moves linking in to Voodoo Child.

Start at the back wall just left of the smiley face (in a small hueco), head straight out the to the infamous slopers and a thin break, finishing over left on a jug.

Grimacing into Anthrax

Man of Steel without the dyno. Aurel Gelot

Upper body intensive moves: Campus to the good hold, followed by an easy exit.

Peter Jeavons

Emmanuel Madayag

Start with left hand in pockety feature and right hand on sloper in low break. Move up to the lip and mantle.

Sit start as for "Blue Alien" heading left to a large pocket and a sharp crimp with a thumb catch. Make some difficult moves to gain the large left hand pocket on the lip before heading to the break.

Byron Glover

Short Fuse exiting via the final Persistence Boulder. Radical!

R. Hofmann

Sit start matched on a large jug at the far right end of the cave. Traverse about a meter left on some crimps to meet the Sloper Rail line running along the roof. Follow this to the crack and all the way out the cave traversing right along the face before a scary top out.

Sheila Binegas

Peter Jeavons

Climb Anger Management to the ledge then exit left through Danger Zone.

Start as for Persistence, climb this to finish out the crack as for Anger Management.

Peter Jeavons

Starting on the slot under Major Lightweight, climb into the hueco where From Dust Til Dawn starts, finishing right hand in the 2 finger pocket, left hand on the mega side pull jug. Not a pretty climb, but one of the last sectors left unclimbed.

Dishonour into Dust Management. 50 moves of hard v13.

Start as for Persistence climbing this for about 2m before breaking off via an obvious perfect deep 2 finger pocket heading straight out to the cave entrance via some good holds. Then make a huge span move between 2 good holds heading right. Release the span via the Rodeo move and finish matched on the starting rail of Major Lightweight on the outside of the cave. Easier if you are taller.

R. Hofmann

Start matched on the large block. Make a couple of huge moves to a pocket, then big span out left to crimp side pull, head straight up the face before a scary mantle to top out. Powerful and big moves. Deceptive and seems to be rather solid for the grade.

Tom Farrell (FA) Tom Farrell

Elijah Mercado Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Start on the right of Major Lightweight on a left hand side pull and right hand edge. Big move to the pocked with the left hand, right hand crimp intermediate then to the gnarly 2 finger pocket, hand foot match the left and hold tight to pull over the bulge to small edge via sloper. Top out "RIGHT" via slopers and edges. Gymnastic and Powerful.

R. Hofmann

Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move up via small pocket and crimp to match the lip. Committing move out left and up to mantle.

Potentially already F.Aed in the late 90's

As seen on "Comin At Ya Hyper" - climbing vid of the late 90's. Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move right via small pockets (chipped) up the face/arete until you gain to micro crimps, feet up and funky mantle. Fingers of steel required!

Sit start matched on a large jug at the far right end of the cave. Traverse about a meter left on some crimps to meet the Sloper Rail line running along the roof. Follow this to the crack and all the way out the cave traversing right along the face before a scary top out.

Liam Buckman

The alternate unethical approach to https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/sutherland/route/13097509

Short but desperately powerful climbing. Excellent. Originally climbed as Attack Mode to the fixed biner and given grade 32. Start at the huge handlebar jug right of the massive fallen boulder.

Climb original White Ladder then continue via one more boulder problem to the ledge.

Jake Bresnehan

Start Attack mode but go direct.

Start as for ‘Klockwork Orange’ and finish as for ‘Stargate’.

More consistent start into the finish of the next problem. Upgraded from V9 following the broken starting hold.

Starting at 'Nappy Nuggets' trending left. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Links into 'Special Delivery'.

Tom O'Halloran

Extension of Cheese Gobbler that goes all the way to the top of the cliff via a whole bunch of hard independent climbing and then the top of The Big Cheese. Original vision by Robbie, new vision and execution by Tom.