Routes in Australia for selected grade

A separate buttress 15m right of Purity and 3m right of Clemency. Climb the most left hand line. (Most likely same buttress as Heatherbell ). A low angled climb with the crux being the first moves off the ground on grey rock. Requires RPs to protect the initial moves,

The RH line up the small orange buttress.

Start: Start 20m R of 'Treachery'.

The diagonal line. Start 4m R of CS.

Slab and bulge right of SG. Finish through centre of upper bulge.

Supposed to have a crack, but doesn't! 6m left of FOTR, 1m left of diagonal seam of Flying Foxes, behind a cherry ballart. Up wall, then vague juggy corner. Tricky down low. Was graded 8!

Vegetated groove 7m right of the start of Tres Hard.

Up short right-facing corner and deep line right of Greenfingers. Near the top, veer left across the wall to the rap station. Originally graded 10 by Noddy.

The monumental chimney on the R side of Reaper Buttress. The smooth crux section can be done either by stemming on the outside or grunting on the inside, but either way the pro is a bit skimpy.

Start at the top left end of the wall, 3m R of the major chimney (Red Parrot Chasm - described on the Reaper Buttress page).

1. 30m 12. Up the wide crack then through sculpted territory, eventually stepping left to rap anchor on ledge.

2. 20m 11. Finish up the gross wall with no pro, or move L to finish up the chimney.

First pitch/rap off point is a little longer than the 25m mentioned in the 2008 Arapiles Selected Climbs guidebook. A 60m rope still easily touches ground though.

Quite good. The abseil route comes down the first pitch so watch out for traffic and don't monopolise the bolt anchors if the area is busy. Start at a wide crack just left of the block leaning against the cliff.

1. 20m (11) Up crack and bulge then dicky moves past bolt to ledge and bolt anchors.

2. 40m (10) Steep groove on left then up wall, veering right-wards to finish.

This airy arête can be a second pitch to Native Companion, or an alternative finish to Transylvania. It’s the prominently visible arête directly above Subliminal Cut.

From the first belay of Transylvania, move left and climb arête all the way.

Good fun with fairly good protection. Start 12m R of Subliminal Cut, just right of the large block leaning against the cliff, or under the block itself. Up the wall past the right side of the block. Smooth slab, crux, from ledge on top of the block (there is a wire but short people will have to get up to it) then easier ground up line of least resistance to the headwall. Step left and climb diagonally left to the rap anchors.

The major skanky diagonal cleft.

Start 10m L of Minstrel Pinnacle, at the easy crack just L of a perched block. Can be lead in one pitch at the same grade if you leave the crack and head diagonally R about 8m below the top of p1. However this increases the risk of a grounder on rope stretch when the second is on the crux start.

1. 25m (11) A tough start gains the deep crack, which is followed to a ledge.

2. 15m (8) Wander R along the ledge for a few metres to the next line, and head up this to the Pillars.

This is on the lower tier of the Minstrel Pinnacle. The obvious chimney.

Take the easiest way up the face. Start on the southwest face of the pinnacle (which faces into Central Gully). Short corner then (crux) traverse 4-5m L (nasty pendulum potential for the seconder), to gain the nice easy crack to the summit. There's also a more direct start about 6m further L which is a little harder and not as well protected, but with much reduced pendulum potential.

This is an easier version of The Catacombs. A pretty shady climb.

1. 30m As for The Catacombs – finishing via the chains (?M1) if you don’t want to do the grade 14 roof.

2. 30m Up the steep juggy crack as for The Catacombs second pitch for about 12m, then trend right up the grey wall just left of the corner. Belay in the chasm behind the top of Dreadnought Butttress.

3. 15m Climb the upper side wall of the chasm, left of a gnarly chimney.

4. 40m Follow the prominent steep crackline up the headwall, left of the final pitch of The Catacombs.

This is the original version. Dunes Direct (described separately) is now the usual way to go.

Start up the L-facing corner of a huge flake leaning against the east face of the buttress (crawl through behind the flake from the right or scramble easily up from below).

1. 36m (-) Up the corner then trend R up slab to the base of a short chimney facing R into the gully.

2. 6m (-) Up the chimney.

3. 40m (9) Traverse L, step down, and go a bit further L. One tricky move up then continue straight up easy wall to the Oasis (the big ledge between 2 huge boulders).

4. 27m (-) Traverse L to ledge, then up the short steep crack with good jugs, and up the clean corner above.

5. 10m (-) Short corner then easy finish.

This is just the original first pitch of Dunes and should probably be deleted.

Variant first pitch that avoids the greasy start of the original, but is quite runout. Squeeze through behind the block L of the original start to a ledge. Up the L side of the block and up the slab with very little gear to join the original first pitch at the corner/overlap

Wonderful climbing up the right side of the Dunes Buttress, with virtually every pitch offering something of interest.

1. 35m (10) Up surprisingly tricky left facing flake/corner (consider starting up Dunes instead if this might give you grief). Continue up slabs above and belay below chimney around the corner.

2. 40m (9) Easily up chimney. Step across the void from top of chimney onto the face proper and continue up to large ledge (the Oasis).

3. 15m (1) Crawl R through hole, belay beneath chockstone in chimney on the other side.

4. 40m (9) Pull up onto the chockstone with difficulty. Follow the deep crackline above to the top (or for a slightly easier finish trend a bit left for the last bit).

Start on the L wall, then the R. Bridge airily to an awkward and runout finish L around the roof. Start on the next buttress uphill from Morfydd, at a chimney with a square roof.

The retrobolt eliminated serious fall potential, making this route a must for confident leaders at the grade ... but don't expect to be sewing it up with gear every metre. The southeast face of the Morfydd pinnacle faces the back of Fang Buttress. Start under this face.

A climbing route that follows Ali's, then goes up to the top of Bard Buttress. Not great rock but a great position. Start 10m left of Ali's.

1. 55m 8. Ramble up the slab for ~20m (minimal pro). Clip a bolt on Ali's, and cross to the R, over a small lip, onto a ledge at the base of ridgeline going up Bard Buttress.

2. 25m 10. Traverse R onto the arete/ridgeline, and follow the ridge to the top.

This is just one of innumerable soil-to-summit enchainments of Arapiles which have been enjoyed by countless parties since time immemorial, and which are best left as a choose-your-own-adventure. See the FA notes if you really want to know how this one goes.

Probably the most descended route at Arapiles (by abseilers using Ali's rap anchor). May also be the least ascended. Start 5m L of Ali's.

Start at Ali's.

1. 26m (9) Traverse 5m R then juggy corner and into cave on Orpheus (which is described in the Bard Buttress area).

2. 18m (12) Bomb-bay chimney as for pitch 5 of Orpheus then traverse R (probably better to go left instead and continue up Orpheus).

3. 20m (9) Nasty wall, then R, watch for loose blocks.

4. 16m (9) R, then over big block.

Follow Sisyphus for 15m, then begin a long traverse. Pass Orpheus and Eurydice's 2nd belay, and reverse THE traverse on Bard. Now downclimb the Bard.

Up slots to overhang, step L, then up wall trending R to gain arete. Skip the top overhang by traversing off left.

Start: Start 1m R of DB.

Not clear whether this is L or R of 'Thibenzol'.

Start: Takes the next pinnacle uphill (R) of Wizard.

Slabby start right of Minimus then the corner-crack to the top.

Start at the R end of the base of the buttress.

1. 43m (12) Up the slab (some fiddly pro) to L facing corner. Up corner to ramp. Belay at top of ramp.

2. 12m (12) Move around the arete, then up. Airy traverse L around the arete (grovel across or grab the undercling, lean back and find good holds above), and across the front face to belay on the nose.

3. 20m (12, crux) Diagonally R across the face to a bottomless chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney.

4. 15m (12) Up the steep juggy line to the Bard Terrace.

5. 30m (12) Up the bottomless corner then R onto and up the wall.

From Ali Baba's Cave, scramble up to a ledge between Bard Buttress and Bluff Minor. You ascend the southeast face of Bluff Minor, overlooking the Pines. Epic summit vibes.

1. 10m (12) Unprotected start then up to ledge.

2. 35m (10) Steep to ledge, L onto block, up mossy wall, then easily to belay under headwall.

3. 10m (6) Up to the summit. Rap off a slung boulder on the summit into the gap between Bluff Minor and Bluff Major.

A pleasant link from Flinders Lane to below Missing Link. Climb the steepish seam up the wall across right from Scorpion Corner, 3-4m right of the slimy access corner.

Climb the RH line, descend the LH line! Start on the slabby wall opposite Missing Link.

A pleasant ramble, although likely very close to or a repeat of the upper portion of Bong Tree (on Seneca Wall).

From the base of Missing Link, the first pitch starts approximately 20 metres down towards the top of Tiger Wall, not far R of DED. There is a small crack at ground level to protect the belayer from plummeting off Tiger Wall.

1. Ramble up the slab until it steepens. The line of most resistance is 14ish. Build an anchor up on top (30m, 12)

2. Continue rambling, doing a few climbing moves over the orangey lip bit. Place some gear if you desire. Build an anchor where it's no longer justifiable to call it rock climbing. (20m, 6)

The easiest route to the summit of Bluff Major is pure class, providing delicate groove climbing in a grand position.

Up wall trending R, over bulge and into chimney.

Start: Start R of B.

Start about 50m uphill from John's Pinnacle, under the obvious cleft in the south face of the Bluffs which divides Bluff Major and Bluff Minor. Up 4m juggy wall, go R underneath roof for 5m, then thrash up the obvious slot. Exit to the north onto Blockbuster Ledge.

This is a good pitch to go to the top of the cliff after Phoenix or 'The Eighth'.

Start: Start at the top of 'The Eighth', at far R end of Flinders Lane.

Start: Start under the big chasm which separates 'Bard Buttress' and 'Tiger Wall'.

1. 30m (2) Easy slab to the start of the chimney.

2. 30m (11) The slippery chimney then head a bit left to belay (old pitons).

3. 30m (10) Exciting. Head up the steep groove on the L wall, move right (though not quite into the chimney) and continue up the L wall. Exciting moves lead around the L side of the giant chockstone. Belay above. (An inferior alternative is to return to the chimney from the belay).

4. 28m (10) Up the L wall, heading slightly left and finishing up the final moves of 'Bard'. (Again, sticking to the chimney is inferior, and involves plenty of loose rock and vegetation.)

Monster chasm

Start: Start as for The Bard (which is described on the 'Bard Buttress' page).

1. 46m (10) As for p1 of The Bard.

2. 25m (12) Step R from the belay across 'Eagle Cleft'. Above the big roofs on the bottom left side of 'Tiger Wall' there are two major diagonals going up the left side of the wall. You meet them here in 'Eagle Cleft', where they are about 4m apart. Take the lower diagonal to a belay ledge.

3. 30m (12) Continue up R along diagonal for 8m, then go L over a small nose. Go up the wall then R into the start of a chimney and climb it to a belay.

4. 25m (-) Chimney upwards to Flinders Lane.

Pitch 4 Variant: At the belay do not move right into the chimney. Instead step left for about 2-3m then follow an obvious line trending slightly left for a full 50m pitch. This is an obvious line that is quite prominent as a crack line on the cover of Louise Shepherd's guide book to 'Arapiles'

Takes the lovely right-facing corner on the righthand-side of 'Central Buttress' before joining 'The Eighth' on the final two pitches. Take a few long slings for thread runners.

1. 48m (11) Climb the corner to the top of 'Central Buttress'.

2. 25m (8) Up and right to crack (The Eighth) and straight up this to large ledge.

3. 20m (-) Walk to left end of ledge and up short tricky wall to righthand end of Flinders Lane (as for final pitch of The Eighth).

1. 24m (8) Follow Phoenix for 8 metres to thread runner then out right and up past all 'Highway' 8 sign to shallow corner. Up to ledge.

2. 25m (9) Gain the line just to the right and up to crawl through hole to ledge.

3. 30m (9) Traverse 6 metres left to crack and up this to big ledge.

4. 20m (8) Walk 12 metres left and up tricky wall to right end of Flinders Lane.

1. 46m (11) Take the chimney-crack 6 metres right of 'The Eighth' which eventually leads into pitch 2 of 'The Eighth'. Belay on the ledge above the hole.

2. 30m (11) Traverse 2 metres left then follow steep crack past peg to ledge. Continue up large corner to next big ledge. This was the original third pitch of 'The Eighth'.

3. 20m (8) Traverse as for P4 of The Eighth.

The first three pitches in particular offer superb climbing at the grade, while the final pitches provide an opportunity to explore those high balconies dominating the upper reaches of the cliff. The first two pitches are often combined.

While the first part of the climb only spends a small amount of time in the chimney, some parties have mistakenly climbed the chimney in its entirety. This is not a club that you should aspire to join.

Despite its enjoyable nature, there have been a number of serious injuries and a death on this climb. Here the start of the fourth pitch has been revised to reduce the danger of a long fall to the belay ledge.

1. 20m (10) Up chimney past a thrutchy section and belay out on the left arete. Many parties climb the rib left of the chimney instead (as per P1 of Monkey Poo), this is harder and less-well protected.

2. 20m (10) Climb wall past interesting move at 5 metres and continue to ledge on left. Some parties run the first two pitches together.

3. 35m (10) Delicately up smooth, sustained wall (there's a corner on the left and an unappetising chimney on the right). Make sure to place protection low down here as more than one good climber has smashed their ankles on the ledge after an unexpected slip. Continue up to ledge on right (old peg runner). Up arete to eventually meet chimney. Cross chimney and up 4 metres to big ledge.

4. 38m (8) The original start to this pitch, going up diagonally right from the belay was very poorly protected. Traverse 10 metres right along the ledge to a thin crack. Go up to meet the diagonal line then climb diagonally right just below the junction of grey and red rock.

5. 12m (9) Traverse right and climb a short, steep wall to a balcony belay.

6. 25m (8) Walk left along balcony and climb up second weakness.

7. 20m (7) Traverse spectacularly left to ledge, then scramble off

A significantly shorter, easier and more exciting finish than the original. The u-bolt is on Hot Lonely Planet. Pitches 1 - 3. As for Syrinx, belaying to the right of the large ledge, near the painted arrow.

1. 40m (7) Climb up above the arrow then right a little and up into juggy groove and up to a small ledge on the left at 20m (third belay of Headbanger). From the left side of the ledge continue left and up past a big bucket hold and a Ubolt through the exposed orange rock, toward a guano-stained ledge. Go left and up across the top of the major corner (airy) to a small ledge on Sunday Best. Much easier but more exposed than any other Grade 7 pitch at Arapiles. Do not underestimate it.

2. 20m (7) Continue left past large hollow block and up to evade the roof and join Pitch 7 of Syrinx to finish. Scramble off as for that climb.

Ruthless cleaning, trundling and bolting have brought this climb back to popular notice. A good effort all around.

It's a pity that the route hasn't been set up with a rap route as the last pitch is pretty poxy and then there's the walk-off.

Start below the first clean streak left of Pan Grove, above the clear-felled area.

1. 35m (8) Slabby seam then easy climbing to lovely thin crack. Follow crack then step right and up to stance.

2. 20m (11) 'Steep' off the belay and up to ledge. Move right and follow crack through overhang and up to good ledge.

3. 50m (10) Superb crack to a ledge and double bolt belay.

4. 15m (7) Manky wall to large ledge then short wall to next large ledge. Walk off right.

Up the steep pillar to a bolt, then traverse left (crux), and finish up the easier climbing above.

Start: At the pillar on the right side of the north face.

It's scary to think they called the route this way back then!

Start: 5m R of 'Fox Tales'.

The prominent gash at the L end of 'Grotto Wall'.

The arching grey buttress between The Flue and the grotto is an enjoyable easy route.

Start: Below the grey buttress at a tricky run-out slab.

Up the slab (poor pro) to the L edge of the grotto, then continue up the line above.

About two-thirds of the way from the left on the roadside face is an orange corner which faces left and is low down. Easiest approach is behind the Death Row Pinnacle and walk left along a terrace to its left end.

Scramble up and slightly left and climb orange corner. Above the corner there's a little bulge with a stack of loose blocks offering a foothold. Instead move left onto the steep, juggy wall and up past the bulge then step back right into the obvious crack.

Orange streak 10 metres right of 'Blockwork Orange'. Finish up crack in headwall.

Climb streak all the way past ledges.

Start: Start about 15 metres right of 'Hot Tip' at another water streak

Takes the vegetated trench.

Climb corner and veer L through the small roof above.

Start: Start on L side of 'Ministry Wall' at L facing steepening corner with lichen at base.

After the left-leaning corner, continue over the bulge and straight up. Good rock, good gear. This route assumes the original veered left below the bulge as per the description.

A ramble up the northern aspect of 'Death Row Pinnacle'. The first pitch was the scramble down from 'Garden Gnome' before the rap anchor went in. Start from a ledge right of Death Row ’s condemned cell and a bit down left from 'Garden Gnome' .

1. 20m Up to a short right-facing corner, which leads to easy climbing up to the saddle between the main 'Death Row Pinnacle' and the summit of Garden Gnome. Belay at the Garden Gnome chains.

2. 20m Wall to the summit of Death Row Pinnacle.

Climb the chasm right of Spasm by following a finger crack on the left wall which leads up and right through a squeeze. Top out on the road side of Uncle Charlie's via some juggy wide chimneying. Walk off over the chockstone to the Pharos. Protectable, but a pretty tight fit with a harness.

A fine old classic whose grade seems to be gradually creeping up. Used to be grade 8 back in the day. Many variations are possible. Start at the chimney 7 metres right of Five Fingered Mary.

1. 25m (12) Follow the chimney until the line divides at 25 metres. Step right to a ledge.

2. 20m (11) Step back left then up the steep right-hand crack. Exit right onto ledge below steep bushy chimney.

3. 20m (11) Traverse 6 metres left and around nose of rock. Up onto wall, then continue up until able to traverse right to base of short slot.

4. 10m (11) The slot is desperately slick. Alternatively, climb the steep juggy wall on the right. The pitch finishes at the big ledge of the Tennis Court.

5. 43m (8) From the top of pedestal climb tricky weakness left of red overhang. Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap, then up to summit. This is as for the last 2 pitches of Spiral Staircase and may be split as for that climb.

Another great outing up the front of the Pharos. Start 9 metres right of Hurricane Lamp Cracks at the foot of a deep crack.

1. 28m (6) Climb the buttress on the left to a good belay ledge.

2. 22m (10) Traverse 5 metres right, stepping across a wide crack, then follow the steep, clean line on the right to another good ledge.

3. 25m (10) Step left and climb the front of the buttress to gain the deep V-line on the left. Pass the spectacular roof on the left and up to the Tennis Court.

4. 43m (8) From the top of pedestal climb tricky weakness left of red overhang. Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap, then up to summit. This is as for the last 2 pitches of Spiral Staircase and may be split as for that climb.

The line right of The Shroud and left of Spiral Staircase. The original line of Spiral Staircase went somewhere about the first pitch of this. The second pitch traversed off below the roofs to the line that is climbed now. Apparently originally climbed in the 1960s by Rob Taylor, who placed the pin. Start on the North east shoulder of the Pharos right of TS.

1. 40m (10) Wander up to pick up a little R facing corner 3m right of The Shroud. Follow this corner to belay 5m below roofs.

2. 30m (10) Right of the roof pitch on The Shroud is two bits of orange rock capped by roofs. Samos takes the thin patch of grey rock between them past an old, unnecessary pin through a break in the roofs. Then up wall on jugs to join Spiral Staircase.

3. 5m (-) Scramble up short wall as for Spiral Staircase.

4. 35m (-) Do the top pitch of SS.

A nice alternative for when the final pitch of Hurricane Lamp Cracks, The Shroud, and Spiral Staircase is too busy or too sunny. From the Tennis Court, walk around right, delicately around the arete (staying on belay probably advisable) to a large ledge where Braindrops P1 ends. Climb the middle of the right-hand wall, staying well right of the deep split that Spiral Staircase would have stepped over. When the wall becomes vertical, stay left for the easiest line, or move right towards Lady Dihedral to make it a few grades harder. Tops out at the summit.

Instead of scrambling up to the top of Pharos, climb straight up from the DBB of FC. Plenty of gear and good belay on top around a boulder

Short corner and arete on left side of wall, starting 2 metres left of "Party Tricks". A bit contrived up high.

Deep crack 2 metres right of "Romper Room". Take big gear, knee pads and crack gloves.

Borderline for a star but an interesting jamming experience. The crack right of "Lights In The Sky"

This sits almost directly above "Defector" on Ministry Wall; combining the two could be quite nice. Otherwise, to get to the start, scramble up the descent route on the left side of the Vanoise Wall and go left a little or come down from the top.

Central line up little brown tombstone-shaped buttress above and left of descent route.

Crack 5 metres right of 'West Coast Dogma'.

These two climbs are on the gentle wall opposite Duck Crag, directly below a slackline launch site. Easily approached via the disabled lookout. Home for Tea is an obvious finish to Duck up the Stairs.

Crack on the wall opposite the northern edge of Duck Crag. The crack leads to a gentle slab, trending left to the top.

Layback flake to right end of roof. At roof, traverse left and up.

Start: Start at the layback flake 30 metres left of diagonal.

Clean black slab right of 'Heckle'.

Start on right side of wall. Traverse easily left and finish up weakness left of 'Stranger Than Friction'.

Obvious diagonal facing Huey.

From the highest point in the floor of the gully, scramble onto ledges then bridge up the chimney. When it narrows, head for and go up inside of chockstones. Belay on top of chockstones at rap anchor.

Steep, juggy corner on right edge of chimney.

Essentially a variant finish to "Long Hair And Greatcoats". It originally started by moving around the right side of the huge chockstone but that is worthless.

Start as for "Long Hair And Greatcoats".

Follow Long Hair And Greatcoats to manky old peg at top of shallow black corner. Make a committing move left and then up interesting thin crack to top.

Corner on the right, branching slightly left to finish up the right-hand summit.

Useless. Twin cracks 5 metres left of Trampled Underfoot.

Quite pleasant really.

Start up Future Past and climb directly up, keeping about 2 metres right of the blunt arete, to the top.

A memorable excursion up a monster chimney. Protection is spaced.

Up chimney to large chockstone at 30 metres. Go around overhang and up to ledge (2 old pitons, possible belay). Bridge widely to top.

Nice line and rock but still a little shrubby. From the top of this it is a short scramble to the base of 'Mentor' so Kermit/Mentor/The Protege could provide an interesting outing.

Start: Start 30 m L of 'Wedding Tackle'.

Start: Line R of 'Carnal Intent'.

Maybe worthwhile as an approach for 'The Protege'.

The obvious chimney which appears to lead directly into The Protege when viewed from near Uncle Charlie. Approach past the left end of the Furphy Wall,

Climb the chimney to the roof. Step right and bridge up the continuation.

A slightly bold first pitch and an exhilirating finish.

Start: The face just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress is marked by the deep chasm of 'The Slot'. Start directly below this chasm.

1. 40m (9) Go up to bushes at 5 metres, step left and climb face just left of the gulch, delicate at first, until it eases to a good ledge.

2. 30m (5) Easy ground to below the orange overhangs.

3. 25m (10) Up to and under the overhang and traverse out left. Climb the overhang on large holds in an exposed position.

An old-fashioned route. Start below the chasm just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle, as for 'Aphrodite'.

1. 72m (11) A tricky wall leads to the base of the chimney. Follow the chimney pas a narrow section and then on up vegetation-filled gully to belay in the"orange bowl"

2. 28m (11) Fall across gap and climb crack in right wall past the chockstones to the top. An alternative is to carry on directly up the line, which is very narrow to start with.

From start of 'Tiptoe Ridge', take left-leaning grey diagonal then step right to short right-facing orange corner on right arete of south face. There are some loose blocks.

Little corner 1 metre right of 'Free Beer' to roof then up slab.

Starts at Siren’s first belay.

1. 40m (12). Starts directly behind the dead Cypress Pine. Climb the middle of the face. (crux). At first ledge, set up belay.

2. 40m (12) Directly up, to right hand end of the Eagles Eyrie. Taking the small left facing corner and then up juggy wall to top.

A wonderful long classic, climbed at the same time as Introductory Route. A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner.

Start as for Introductory Route, on the right side of the Tiptoe Ridge buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree, as for the first pitch of Introductory Route.

2. 35m (8) Move right and up a little crack then follow prominent right-leading diagonal to a spectacular ledge on the arete. Note that the climb originally climbed the latter part of this pitch out right near the arete, now included in the second pitch of Xena.

3. 35m (8) A mildly terrifying step across the void leads to easy climbing diagonally right. A few tricky moves then lead to a comfortable ledge below the big corner, with DRB.

4. 25m (6) Up corner to next ledge or carry on up the next pitch.

5. 25m (9) Up corner which finishes with a few rounded layback moves, then continue up little wall and belay on terrace.

From here either walk off left along terrace and scramble up little gully and wall to top or climb little right-facing corner just left of final belay. This is grade 11.

Definitely the best way to climb Siren, especially as it only has one move at grade 12 and creates one of the best easy corner pitches anywhere!

1. 25m (4) As for Siren

2. 35m (8) As for Siren

3. 35m (8) As for Siren

4. 50m (12) Brilliant corner as for Siren but instead of stopping at the belay at 25m, continue up and step right through the rooflet and on to more glorious corner above. Belay on major ledge. From here either walk of left or...

5. 10m (11) Walk left along the ledge to the small right-facing corner and finish up this for full value.

Start: Start at the right edge of the Pinnacle face below right-leaning flake/crack, about 10 metres right of 'Siren'.

1. 35m (8) Up to and over crack and up left line in wall to juggy ground. Continue up steep wall just left of arete to incut ledge looking out over 'Left Watchtower Face'.

2. 22m (9) Climb up just left of arete to big ledge (Siren's second belay) and continue to next ledge on left a couple of metres further up.

3. 23m (5) Easy ground to ledge below headwall.

4. 30m (10) Step right, then steeply up on good holds. Up, tending slightly left.

Follows the chimney-corner bounding the left edge of the left Watchtower face after starting up Hot Flap's first pitch, then the chimney-gully forming the left side of the Siren buttress.

A climb which gets the heart going no matter if you're on lead or seconding, with the first pitch, by itself, being a great line!

Start: There are two deep cracks at the base of the Watchtower. Start at the left-hand crack.

1. 45m (12) Up the fading crack to a ledge, traverse left past an old carrot bolt and climb the corner to small ledge.

2. 17m (8) Up the rest of the corner to base of chimney

3. 31m (12) Up the chimney without taking the detour. Belay just above

4. 18m (8) A bouldery start leads to an easier finish.

The express route to Mr. Chicken!

1. 40m (12). Start as for Watchtower Chimney, but veer right and up on surprising jugs at the start of the slab (close to the end of the first pitch; this is particularly great for rainy days when the slab is wet). Belay from giant ledge.

2. 20m (8). Traverse slightly right, then follow the juggy staircase until you reach a roof.

3. 15m (10). This is the money pitch. Traverse around the roof and climb the blocks on the right hand side until you reach Mr. Chicken. There is good gear in the cracks.

Not a new route; just one of many existing variants to Arachnus. See FA notes for details.

A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible, especially in the middle section; yes they have already been climbed. Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercut section (Pumping), and 9m R of Watchtower Chimney.

1. (40m, 8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge. (The first ascent traversed all the way to the right arete before climbing bulge).

2. (21m, 8) Either climb up left of the belay or climb just right of the crack until below bulge and then step left over the crack. Belay on narrow ledge below overhang on left side of The Watchtower.

3. (14m, 9) Either climb straight up veering slightly right, or traverse right on smooth rock past ancient piton before moving right. Belay in a good cave on the right side of the buttress.

4. (30m, 8) Move left out of cave and up exhilarating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

A very popular variant on Arachnus, but more serious because of the poorly protected section on pitch three.

1. 40m (8) Arachnus p1.

2. 12m (8) Up smooth wall just right of crack, traverse right, then up to small ledge below juggy crack through overhang.

3. 23m (9) Up crack, then balance carefully right (poor protection) for 4 metres. More easily up to cave belay.

4. 30m (8) Arachnus p4.