Routes in Australia for selected grade

The curving flake/crack starting from the top of the large block at the base of the cliff approximately 6 metres right of Congo.

The far country. Left-facing corner (loose block at 7m) above small, square cave 100m before cliff-end.

Easily up to ledge with large tree on left side of right wall of On Safari(descent) gully. Belay. Use tree to surmount bulge, then climb crack above

Start 2m L of Irish Weetbix. Burrow through the thin hole just L of The Last Rights of Rory O'Meally.

Pull up 10 m R of WBB. Swing R to ledge. Up, taking care with large, balanced slab near top.

Sickle shaped corner 5m right of Impromptu. May still have 2 old bolts.

50m left of US at first break in roof. Wandering and probably loose and filthy. A fine choice for the first route at Bundaleer.

Old fashioned fun up the deep chimney crack 25m right of Pathos and just left of the prow of Flying Circus.

undercut crack 3m left of original start.

4m right of M, crack and groove past PR

1. 25m (feels a bit harder than 12.) Note: 1 guidebook says 20 metres, another says 28m, somewhere in between? Up to ledge, then up a bit further before moving left to where you'll see two carrots - one old and manky, the other slightly less so. Often a wet streak just above. Continue up to a stance at right end of obvious horizontal breaks. Good trad anchor here. Older guidebooks say there's bolt belay but we didn't see one.

2. (10m). Awesome traverse with great gear and easy climbing to massive ledge and trad belay.

3. (24m). Up the wall behind the distinctive horns to trad belay at top.

Descent: Follow foot pad to descent gully and rap anchor above 'Island Cruise'

Initiall chimney crack 5m right of WDLS

Initialled crack 20m right of gully.

Initialled crack 5m right of TG

Initialled cleft 2m right of TS

initial 6m right of Pamular. Veer right up wall then crack to corner. p.2 up corner. Old guide suggests it might actually be OK.

Wanders somewhere up wall 8m right

Juggy face 9m right of The Skunk (1m right of last tree). Well protected.

Crack 1m right of They’ve Been at it Again to overhang at 6m, then up easily.

One of the few worthwhile aid routes in the Grampians, with a huge roof at the very top of the cliff. It is written up with the direct start, which is the best way to do the climb.

The original start (two pitches) came in to the base of pitch four from 45 metres up the gully to the right via mostly easy climbing and a few aid bolts.

It is likely that significant sections of the lower pitches could be freed relatively easily. Using 60 metre ropes could help to run the lower four pitches into two giving a significant time saving on the approach to the roof. Head torches have been found useful in the past. Take 2 bat-hooks and 11 hangers.

The climb is about 750 metres from where the main walking track is left, with the final 400 metres being relatively slow. Expect to take between 45 minutes to an hour-and-a-half from the car with packs.

Start: Below the obvious line leading to the huge roof at the top of the cliff about 150 metres left of 'Burning Daylight' (400 metres left of Big Chimney). Scramble about 10m up onto a block.

1. 27m (- M4) Move left and up incipient groove to ledge. BB on right.

2. 40m (12 M3) Step up right (BR) and then left to the foot of a crack. Free up the crack, switching to aid when necessary. Finish with some bolts then free to a big ledge.

3. 10m (-) Step right and up to next ledge.

4. 27m (- M3) The crack, mostly aid, to below the roof.

5. 15m (- M4) The thin crack in the outrageously exposed roof.

Unusual mix of caving and climbing and finishing on a pinnacle to boot!

Start: About 45 metres left of 'Toreador' at a chimney/groove. Faint initials SP on left side of crack. There is a nice looking thin seam taking the front of the narrow buttress 2 metres to the right which should help to locate this climb.

1. 24m (10) The chimney to above the second constriction

2. 22m (-) The chimney to an overhang at about 10 metres. Traverse right to the foot of the pinnacle proper.

3. 13m (-) Bridge up behind the pinnacle to the top. (Descend by reversing this pitch and going down the hole)

What can you say? It's a big chimney, a major geological feature. The second pitch is truly awesome. Most modern climbers will find the crux to be the poorly protected chimney sections rather than the well-protected first pitch. This has traditionally been graded 9 but, as with many old Rosea routes, it is much harder than routes of that grade at 'Arapiles'.

Start: Find the landmark chimney, about 60 metres left of 'Dinosaur Gully', 20 metres left of 'Rameses'. There are faint initials BC on the left wall but if you need these to positively identify the climb you should go home.

1. 24m (11) Up the line to an awkward bulge at 6 metres. There's an ancient peg runner here but good wires just below and a large cam (#4 Camalot just works but #4.5 would be better) makes it redundant. From the stance above pull up the unlikely little arete on the right. Jugs and a finger crack lead back into the line above the grunge. Up to a cool belay behind the huge chockstone.

2. 22m (11) Chimney straight up from the chockstone. When the chimney widens slightly move in to a thread belay.

3. 24m (11) Still more chimney to the next chockstones. A recent ascent climbed up to the outside of the chockstones but this was quite insecure until a U-bolt was encountered just below the chockstones. Possibly more secure to climb this section deeper in the chimney. Now easily up to the terrace.

4. 30m (11) Chimney on the right of the terrace. This does not look very hard but protection is almost non-existent. Alternatively, climb the wall immediately right of this chimney, pitch 3 of 'Crocks Direct', grade 15.

A very indirect start to a major line. Originally the third pitch was considered the crux but, as with so many of these old routes, some horror-show unprotected chimney sections went totally unremarked. Perhaps modern climbers are just wimps.

Start: Start at the large flake-crack as for 'Rameses'.

1. 27m (9) The flake-crack past a tree and under the chockstone to another tree.

2. 21m (9) Traverse left across wall, move around arete, cross a scrubby corner and belay on a ledge below a small roof.

3. 9m (10) Climb the corner, passing the roof on the left.

4. 33m (10) The pleasant crack to the terrace. A pointless ring-bolt and chain will be encountered as some point.

5. 30m (11) The very poorly protected chimney on right (last pitch of Big Chimney) to the next terrace. Scramble off up a gully on the left.

An early climb here but not a classic. Sort of follows the same feature as 'Rameses' with variations.

Start: Start as for 'Rameses'.

1. 27m (-) Climb the flake-crack past the tree and under a chockstone to another tree.

2. 24m (-) Left wall of corner for 5 metres then onto right wall and up to tree on ledge.

3. 12m (-) From right end of ledge move right, up crack then belly-crawl and 3 metres right to belay.

4. 24m (12) Go 6 metres up crack just left of belay. Step left onto face and up to move right at overhang into chimney. Up to top of chimney.

5. 15m (-) Corner

6. 30m (-) Buttress above.

Wandering and serious for the grade. The start is unattractive and overall it's not very appealing.

Start: Start at the left end of the grotty wall left of the big overhang (front of buttress down right from "Vee Wee").

1. 25m (-) Go up 3 metres and traverse right to a tree (a steep grade 15 direct start climbs the corner to the right). Move up more steeply, veering left into a small chimney. Traverse right from a chockstone and go up to a ledge.

2. 21m (-) Step down and continue right into a corner. Up a little then right along a ledge for 7 metres to a weakness which is climbed for 6 metres. Move right again.

3. 12m (-) Traverse right to just past a bush.

4. 23m (-) 'Steep' climbing above the bush leads to a large bushy ledge just right of a chimney.

5. 23m (10) Climb the chimney to a large ledge and continue up the corner on the left for 5 metres. 'Steep', strenuous climbing on dubious holds leads to a large, scrubby ledge.

6. 21m (-) Climb 6 metres up the flake-crack on the clean wall left of the scrubby area. Step left and go up to a forest. Walk right to a corner.

7. 33m (-) Line of weakness, veering right, to the top.

Another old route that takes some hostile territory but doesn't get done often these days. Some of the pitches (esp. 2&3) could well be combined.

Start: Below twin cracks on a ledge a few metres above the hairpin bend where the track meets the cliff.

1. 27m (11) Climb the right-hand crack past an ancient piton runner. Move right above the piton and go up to a ledge above a large tree.

2. 24m (11) Climb the corner for 3 metres and traverse left for 12 metres. Move up on small holds and then more easily up and left to a tree.

3. 12m (10) Step right and climb an awkward crack to the next tree.

4. 30m (11) Move up a little to an easy traverse left for 12 metres to a corner. Climb the corner and continue straight up to a bushy ledge. Move left to belay.

5. 33m (-) Move right into the gully that leads to the top. A very poorly protected finish at grade 16 is to climb straight up the rib above the belay. Bern Lyons 1963.

An old wandering route that used to be considered something of a minor classic but has fallen into disuse. It was originally done in eight pitches but several of these can be combined and there are a couple of belay points that are probably best bypassed.

There is a lot of good climbing but the poorly protected section across the slabs at about 40 metres is a serious lead despite being quite easy.

Pinpointing the start is a bit difficult as existing descriptions rely on initials which are no longer evident.

Start: Start just right of where the track reaches the cliff at wide line just right of 'Flypaper Wall'.

1. 24m (-) Easily to wide corner. Up corner until 5 metres below its top then traverse 3 metres right to ledge

2. 17m (-) Right along the boulder-strewn ledge and up short corner-crack to terrace on the right.

3. 33m (11) Corner to difficult exit right around the roof at the top. Up 5 metres to small stance on right and old carrot bolt. In the past people belayed here but it is much safer to continue. Traverse 6m left (wire or small cam at about 2m). This is quite easy but some of the large footholds are very mossy. Up diagonally left on clean, unprotected rock to old piton runner. Step up (excellent small cam placement 1m above peg) and move another 6m left to a tiny stance but good anchors.

4. 22m (-) Go up for 3 metres then veer left to a long ledge. Traverse 9 metres left to below a conifer. It is possible to traverse right from this point along the break all the way to 'Tourist Buttress'. Unless you are doing the first ascent of 'Tourist Buttress', don't bother. Climbed by Herbert Schipper, Greg Lovejoy Easter 1963.

5. 25m (-) The line just right of the belay then go up and left to an obvious long chimney. Climb up on the right and step left into the chimney and up to a good ledge on the right.

6. 25m (-) Continue up the line which is steep at first. When about 10 metres below the top there is a choice of continuing straight up or going left and up. The left way is supposed to be easier but is a bit rounded and poorly protected at the very top.

This is the climb that puts the "F" back into grade 12. 'Steep' and sustained and requiring route-finding ability. Pay close attention to the description especially on the third and fourth pitches. Pitches 1 & 2 are best combined because of the poor belay options but great care will need to be taken with drag with lots of slings required.

Start: The line 6 metres right of 'Diane' which is clearly initialled D. To There are no longer usable initials at the base of climb, but just to the right are clear initials KK.

1. 24m (12) Climb the line which leads into a steep corner. Up this until it eases to a small stance below a crack on the right wall.

2. 24m (11) This pitch is not as well protected as the rest of the climb. Up to the foot of a small flaring chimney where there is a useless old peg. Go 2 metres up chimney then boldly traverse right for 5 metres. Go up past another useless old peg to a good ledge. There is a large dead tree in this vicinity, don't belay on it.

3. 20m (10) On up the line for 15 metres (do not go too high) then step right to the foot of a corner.

4. 21m (11) Traverse 3 metres right then up scrubby gully to a ledge in the corner. Steeply up corner and belay on the right. Not a great pitch.

5. 31m (9) Climb up wall for 5 metres and then go right into obvious crack which veers up right.

Right of Yesterday's Pig and about in the middle of the cliff is a large block leaning against a wall forming a small belay cave. Start from the belay cave taking the overhanging crack on the left wall. When the crack finishes move about 1m left to join a second crack. At the top of this crack step Right around the bulge then move up and step back left to finish up blank top face.

The left of two lines at left of middle cliff

Crack up left side of The Bonatti Pillow’s pillar.

Front of pillar 3m right of Grimace and 1m right of Tin Men.

Crack just left of descent gully left of Solid As A Rock.

Attractive crack below left end of roof at left end of E-facing section of cliff. Crack to bypass left end of roof, to lower off bolts.

Landmark, left facing corner crack on left side of outcrop.

THe first pitch is quite dramatic for the grade but the second is rubbish. Start: Initialled line at the LH end of the cliff, the initial is 8m up, at the first ledge [about 250m R of StEF]. This is the L one of a series of cliff splitting lines.

1. 37m (11) Easy wall to crack starting at 8m. Crack up to and around large roof to belay on chockstone.

2. 37m (10) Short wide crack at back L of ledge. Exit L and up on easy, dirty rock.

Major initialled line 8m R of TA.

1. 20m (10) Start up chimney or crack 1m R. Continue up steepening line to ledge below overhanging offwidth corner.

2. 40m (11) Step out R to crack, up this to above overhang. Continue up main line to top.

Another Phillip Stranger solo first ascent.

A cool chimney which gives a fun lower grade adventure - good for a hot day. 5m R of PR.

1. 25m (9) Up the crack 5m R of PR to the chimney. Up this to belay on chockstones.

2. 20m (11) Up the chimney moving out towards the front where it narrows above the overhang. Up to belay above the chockstone.

3. 20m (4) Continue easily up the line.