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Summary
Good crag for moderate sport routes. Has a ground-level bolted anchor for learning to clean sport routes.
Access issues inherited from Ontario
In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/
The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .
Approach
5-10 min
Park in the lot off of 10th Line and follow the well marked trail over a stream to the cliff.
Ethic inherited from Beaver Valley
Leave no trace and tread lightly! Please refer to https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/climbers/getting-outside
Red tagged route: do not touch - route is a closed project and/or bolting is unfinished (i.e. dangerous).
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780995046610
A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.
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Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780995046603
A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Nearby Icons
| 5.6 | ★ Called Out | ||
| 5.8 | ★★★ 700 Rings to Rule Them All | ||
| 5.9 | ★★★ El Camino Real | ||
| 5.10a | ★★★ The Pool Police | ||
| 5.10b | ★★★ De je View | ||
| 5.11b | ★ Serpentine | ||
| 5.11c | ★★★ When I put my helmet on I become like superman | ||
| 5.12b | ★★★ White Lightning | ||
| 5.12c | ★★★ Vox Angelica |
Photos Browse all photos
Jack Mackinnon at Metcalfe North - crag.jpg
★★★ El Camino Real 5.9 - DSC08341.JPG
Metcalfe North - looking left towards peak season in harlem
Jack Mackinnon at Metcalfe North - Dark water
Wed 7 Jun
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